Kevin's 36 gallon setup

  • Thread starter Thread starter kwandrsn
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Yes imo i would frag all the polyps you can off that rock, and some cloves, take them and put them in the sand. And dip the rest in 100% peroxide and kill the heck outa them lol. I would also move the xenias to the sand as that is another take over coral.
Beautifull tank, cant wait till i can come see it myself :D

Hope the new additions fare you well!

Ps: chalice chalice chalice hehe
 
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Yeah yall need to make a trip here lol

And why the heck do I want to keep some blue cloves?

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Ok I got my order from Dr fosters smith that I placed Saturday today.
Pretty quick for free shipping.
Used one of the $20 gift certificates from the swap and got a 200gal box of io reef crystals and a 25 pack of frag plugs for under $35 with free shipping... Awesome
:-)

Hopefully the reef crystals helps with my calcium but I won't be able to tell for a while, I still have at least 15 gallons of regular instant ocean salt mixed up which will last me another 3 weeks. I use a 32 gallon brute trash can with a pump and heater and keep it full just in case I need a big batch of saltwater. Not quite sure if its good to keep refilling it each week or if I should use it all up then start a new batch each time?

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Ok I got bought a used reef keeper lite from jay, I think I got it all figured out. I ordered float switch kits from brs and am buying a used module from another member

I currently have everything hooked to the two power strips. When I get the float switches hooked up I can do away with my current ato system and I will have one free plug on one of the power strips lol.

Whenever I get this 10gallon sump hooked up I need 2 plugs :-(

I'm thinking of buying a splitter and putting both circulation pumps on one plug. I am not going to use the wavemaker function cause my hydor pump is old and makes clunking sounds when starting up and the
other one is a cheap oceanic 250 nano and it makes clunking sounds too and I'm afraid they both won't be able to handle it

I really like the controller I wish I would have gotten one sooner. It does a awesome job at keeping my temp the same before it would fluctuate a few degrees, now it turns heater on at 77.9 and off at 78.1

Also removed all the clutter of my other power strips and the need for the 2 dial timers for my light that I was always accidentally hitting tabs in and would find out at 2am when the light woke me up.

Standby feature is nice too, no more unplugging everything to do water changes

 
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Need pics of your new sump and such

I will when I get it hooked up. I decided I'm redoing the baffles to stop bubbles from getting in my tank via the return. I guess seeing as I have a lot longer down tube than you used on it it makes a crap load of bubbles. Hoping next weekend to have that all done.
 
Glad you like the reefkeeper. If you need any setup help, let me know. I have one and love mine as well. Getting the net module will b your next step. Btw, I have both my wp40s on the same outlet. I also use two outlets to plug in the 9 led drivers (separated for dimming purposes)

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Ok thanks that's good to know I posted a thread about the rkl under the regular forums and they helped quite a bit but mostly was trial and error lol.

I just hooked up my sl1 I bought this evening and the phone line jacks were a little corroded but they cleaned up good. It was throwing temp errors at me. Im thinking about using contact grease on all of it so that doesn't happen again

I have my temp plugged into a bus port on the sl1. Should I use the temp port instead. Ill have a extra connector wire with my float switches I ordered cause I'm running 2 in line so I only need one plug. Would it be better to use that our leave it on a bus port?

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Also any particular way I should have them all hooked up I've got from controller to pc4 then from there to the next pc4 and then from there to the sl1 and the temp is plugged into a bus port on sl1

Not sure which bus number each one is hooked I just started plugging stuff in lol

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no, that temp port is for use with the a different temp probe ( it may only be compatible with RKE). you have the Itemp probe that plugs in like a buss cable.
 
no, you are good that way. if you need to program it you will just unplug the itemp probe and plug is your program cable with the USB end. mine is setup like this:

Head unit > Net > ALC > PC4-1 > (bus cable to garage) PC4-2 > SL1 (temp, orp, Ph and future float switches) I just realized the good about this is my PC4's are on seperate breakers. so If I trip one the head unit will still function. Hmmmm... I need to program an alarm.

I just moved the Sl1 to the garage so I can hook it up to my top off.
 
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Only thing I set was my blue lights and white lights and my heater temp at 78.0
And I set alarm 1 at 80.0, above , f&b
Alarm 2 at 76.0, below, f&b
I only have the lights shutting off with alarm 1

No other alarms and no timers set

My cir pumps, hob filter, both ato plugs all shut down with standby

I calibrated my temp probe to my digital thermometer which is the same as my glass thermometer.

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Ok I built a 10 gallon sump

I have a 3 piece bubble trap on the return side and a regular baffle and a split baffle on the overflow side. The split baffle so water flows through cheato and rock and bottom piece is 2" high so I can still have sand if I want



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Heck of a job Bro, I know who I'm getting to build mine when I'm ready. Can't wait to see it up and running!

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