KLIR Filter hardwire questions

Boomski

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I have a KLIR-4 and I love the idea of it but the actual execution isn't great. I've had issues after issue after issue getting the motor to run when its suppose to and stop when its suppose to. I've had the motor pull the entire roll through in the mater of hours multiple times which is costing me about 30 per roll.

My question is this - Is it possible to just hardwire the motor into the plug which I can then put a switch on and turn it on and off as needed?

Motor has a simple red/black cable running to it:
klir_motor_1.jpg


I assume black is hot but I'm not sure in this case, there isnt a converter box so I assume the amps are fine. Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks
 

Johnny Anderson

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I use to have the same issue. I learned that by cleaning the connectors, it makes the motor work properly. I have 2 klir 7s and they both have this issue. It appears they were not made for a saltwater environment.
 

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bobyboy

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PatReef in he above thread did what you want to do.
 

((FORDTECH))

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PatReef in he above thread did what you want to do.
I’m no expert but was just thinking about this past few days and was thinking couldn’t you just cut connector end off motor and connector end off the power supply and properly splice them together and then use apex or some type of other controller? This would pretty much eliminate controller and sensor then program to advance roll however many times a day for few seconds or whatever you need. This way you can also let tray fill up farther using fleece longer hopefully getting more out your money if you program right
 

bobyboy

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I’m no expert but was just thinking about this past few days and was thinking couldn’t you just cut connector end off motor and connector end off the power supply and properly splice them together and then use apex or some type of other controller? This would pretty much eliminate controller and sensor then program to advance roll however many times a day for few seconds or whatever you need. This way you can also let tray fill up farther using fleece longer hopefully getting more out your money if you program right
honestly the easiest way is to just relocate the level sensor if all you are wanting is to let it fill up more.
 

((FORDTECH))

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honestly the easiest way is to just relocate the level sensor if all you are wanting is to let it fill up more.
I have tried that aswell to let it fill up more but I have also had the issue of water staying on sensor and role constantly advancing way to much. To turn on 6x a day for 3-4 seconds each time would correct this and never happen again.
 

bobyboy

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I have tried that aswell to let it fill up more but I have also had the issue of water staying on sensor and role constantly advancing way to much. To turn on 6x a day for 3-4 seconds each time would correct this and never happen again.
Honestly I miss the old mechanical float switches, both this and the Neptune “optical” switches I’ve found to be prone to that same problem with water condensation and droplets triggering it.
I might try just submerging the optical switch then controlling the outlet with a mechanical float.
 

((FORDTECH))

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Honestly I miss the old mechanical float switches, both this and the Neptune “optical” switches I’ve found to be prone to that same problem with water condensation and droplets triggering it.
I might try just submerging the optical switch then controlling the outlet with a mechanical float.
I’ve had nothing but great luck for Ike 8 years with float switch’s till recent I’ve got a huge blow up of bristle star population in my sump and 1x a month they climb on float switch and sump over fills. Happens so many times installed a redundant float switch 1 inch higher to turn topoff off with an apex alarm letting me know to clean float switch or stars
 

BZOFIQ

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I have a KLIR-4 and I love the idea of it but the actual execution isn't great. I've had issues after issue after issue getting the motor to run when its suppose to and stop when its suppose to. I've had the motor pull the entire roll through in the mater of hours multiple times which is costing me about 30 per roll.

My question is this - Is it possible to just hardwire the motor into the plug which I can then put a switch on and turn it on and off as needed?

Motor has a simple red/black cable running to it:
klir_motor_1.jpg


I assume black is hot but I'm not sure in this case, there isnt a converter box so I assume the amps are fine. Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks

It says 12 volts right on the motor. You can splice it to a small 12V power supply and run it with OSC command in your apex.

If your sump has a lip in the sock section you can add a mechanical float switch there and wire it to your I/O on the apex and use that as a trigger with a defer command to eliminate any ebbs in the flow.

Choice if yours
 
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Boomski

Boomski

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It says 12 volts right on the motor. You can splice it to a small 12V power supply and run it with OSC command in your apex.

If your sump has a lip in the sock section you can add a mechanical float switch there and wire it to your I/O on the apex and use that as a trigger with a defer command to eliminate any ebbs in the flow.

Choice if yours
Don't have an Apex but good advice. Thanks
 

lpramos

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It says 12 volts right on the motor. You can splice it to a small 12V power supply and run it with OSC command in your apex.

If your sump has a lip in the sock section you can add a mechanical float switch there and wire it to your I/O on the apex and use that as a trigger with a defer command to eliminate any ebbs in the flow.

Choice if yours
I have an original (version 1) Klir Filter Di-4 with the upgraded 12V 11 RPM motor.
I would like to find a 12V power supply for the motor. I want to plug into my GHL Powerbar and have the GHL spin the motor periodically. I don't know anything about electricity and don't think it's wise for me to be splicing wires. Did anyone ever find a power supply that the motor can just plug into?
 

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