Lasses Dream Build

[That Crusso Kid]

A little about my clams.

All my clams have been around 4 - 5 cm in length when I got them. This picture shows three of them today. The one to the left - 2 years in my aquarium - 16 cm long and a height of 9 cm. In the middle - 3 years and x * x cm. The one to the right - 1 year and 7 * 3.5 cm.

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This picture below show my smallest and my third largest (3 years in my aquarium and x * x cm) . Just below the mantel you can see something very interesting. It is a white precipitate at the window. It was not there yesterday evening (I cleaned my windows last night) The mantel touch the glass in that position and - IMO - it is a calcification that have take place in lesser than 24 hours. I see this every time I clean my windows.

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The picture below show my second largest (2.5 year in my aquarium and x * x cm) and my second smallest (2 years and 16 * 9 cm)

Sincerely Lasse

One thing I've never thought I'd say to another man; I love your clams!

 

[Lasse]

According to colouration of acropora. I got this acropora two month ago. It was rather lilac in all tops when I got it. It had little hard time in the beginning - the coral get rather dark green. Nowadays - the lilac is comming back but not at the parts that are in the shadows

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Sincerely Lasse

 

[Dr. Dendrostein]

I think your clams are edible in other countries. Too bad when you were on vacation and there was a party at your house and corals were giving out , I should have snagged the clams they should be edible.
Hahaha

 

[taricha]

I want to keep bacteria, organic matter and amino acids in the water as much as possible. Food for filtrating animals among other things. I have a very dense population of corals, many LPS and softies. I have a small reversed refuge. The biomass of corals is rather large and I´m afraid that the oxygen demand during the DT:s dark hours will deplete the oxygen level for me: I´m not sure that the small refuge will produce enough of oxygen during night. I can be wrong in this but - for the moment I´m not able to measure oxygen constantly and will not risk it to run completely without a skimmer.

Thanks. missed your great answer.
I've measured dissolved O2 in my system and I agree with you. The gas exchange by skimming is more effective than photosynthesis in the fuge for stabilizing O2 levels in display during dark hours.
My CO2 and thus pH are not always great predictors of O2 levels in my system, but you know your system well.

 

[Lasse]

y CO2 and thus pH are not always great predictors of O2 levels in my system, but you know your system well.

I have not be able to measure my O2 levels in my system - therefore I need to use probability theory. Theoretical - the lowest oxygen level would be just before the system consume so much CO2 that the pH start to rise because of photosynthetic consumption of CO2 and some hours before that situation. There is a possibility that i buy me an oxygen sensor to my P4 - but they do not come cheap:(

I use an oxidator too - maybe I´m worrying to much for low Oxygen levels but I have been out for it before in a heavy populated skimmerless aquarium. Total overgrown with soft corals

Sincerely Lasse

 

[Dr. Dendrostein]

Soft corals like this :)

 

[taricha]

I have not be able to measure my O2 levels in my system - therefore I need to use probability theory. Theoretical - the lowest oxygen level would be just before the system consume so much CO2 that the pH start to rise because of photosynthetic consumption of CO2 and some hours before that situation

Your method is safe. The uncertainty i've seen goes the other direction. My tank gets a lot of CO2 from the indoor air. So if I used your pH triggers, some days my skimmer might never turn off. Because even if my O2 was 90% of maximum, I would still have a bunch of CO2, and therefore a low ph.
I think your caution is merited, After tracking O2 during carbon doses I'd never run skimmer-less.

 

[Dr. Dendrostein]

Your method is safe. The uncertainty i've seen goes the other direction. My tank gets a lot of CO2 from the indoor air. So if I used your pH triggers, some days my skimmer might never turn off. Because even if my O2 was 90% of maximum, I would still have a bunch of CO2, and therefore a low ph.
I think your caution is merited, After tracking O2 during carbon doses I'd never run skimmer-less.

Time for me to turn on my skimmer even though the tanks outside

 

[Lasse]

The watermovemnt of my aquariums right corner have been rather poor and @Sallstrom love to say that I need more movement in my aquarium. But - there is a huge but - I do not want to deviation from my aesthetic rule - no technique should be seen. Hiding one more pump would be difficult and the two streamers are into two customized BTN rocks. I can not glue a new module into the tank - it means that I need to use a lose module if I want to hide one more streamer. I have ideas about that - maybe I will do a better hiding later on. I found Tunze nano streamer 6040 - it was small enough to fit into a new module

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It comes with a controller ready to connect to a profilux computer. you need an extra Tunze cable from GHL.

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Before i start to make an hiding module I want to test how it would work in my aquarium. I succeeded to fit it into the lower right corner - nearly invisible.I start to test in wave mode but it did not did not enhance the wave movement as much as I had hoped. i changed my mind and fix it together with my return pump (also 1-10 V compatible) I create a stream group that alter a sinus wave back and forth.

The wave moment is rather good too

Now this will run for while and i will decide how to go further

Some new photos

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Sincerely Lasse

 

[atoll]

Tunze 6040 pumps are great little pumps and easier to hide than most. I had 2 of them a while ago but sold them when I got my new much bigger tank and wanted more powerful pumps. Not sure I did the right thing selling them however.

 

[Lasse]

I have used "low" quality streamers for many years - when I get in trouble with them - it has always happens after min 1 year. Now I buyed a High quality streamer - whats happen? - after first night it had stuck the impeller and was dead silent. I succeeded to loosen the impeller and it works for the moment. But now I have placed in a way there I can reach it easily

Sincerely Lasse

 

[Dr. Dendrostein]

I have used "low" quality streamers for many years - when I get in trouble with them - it has always happens after min 1 year. Now I buyed a High quality streamer - whats happen? - after first night it had stuck the impeller and was dead silent. I succeeded to loosen the impeller and it works for the moment. But now I have placed in a way there I can reach it easily

Sincerely Lasse

Yea, I hate that too.

 

[ksed]

I have used "low" quality streamers for many years - when I get in trouble with them - it has always happens after min 1 year. Now I buyed a High quality streamer - whats happen? - after first night it had stuck the impeller and was dead silent. I succeeded to loosen the impeller and it works for the moment. But now I have placed in a way there I can reach it easily

Sincerely Lasse

They low quality ones don’t last more than 1 year for you ?

 

[Lasse]

Some of the last much longer but I mean that it takes at least a year before some of them start to be problematic. It is mostly the old Jebao model RW 8 that can die after a year. I still have them because I did my hiding places in a way that other pumps maybe not fit. The return pumps and skimmer pumps - they just run and run. The only return pump of Jebao type that I know is of bad quality (sometimes) is the blue ones.

But this high quality european pump start to be a problem after one day!!!! Its run now - let us see tomorrow

Sincerely Lasse

 

[ksed]

I believe the Tunze you have is very small and low power therefore can be sensitive to start ups if they get some build up on them.
Very low torque.

 

[chema]

Hi Lasse. congratulations for your beautiful tank. I love the way you acomplish new designs in order to test hypothesis and carry out experiments. For me that is one of the big funs of this hobby. The integration of the DSB and refugium in your tank is both beautiful and effective.

I have seen that you switched from the Profilux P3 to the P4. I'm trying to make up my mind about this. Overall, I'm happy with the P3, but I would like to be able to control my Mitrax fixtures through Profilux, and If I understand it the right way you need the P4 Wi-Fi abilities for that, and also would like to add a redox probe, which would need the corresponding card for the P3 (I understand that card is included with the P4).

Do you think the switch is worth of it?

I hope you and your family stay safe. Sweden is doing a better job than Spain dealing with the coronavirus

 

[Lasse]

Hi Lasse. congratulations for your beautiful tank. I love the way you acomplish new designs in order to test hypothesis and carry out experiments. For me that is one of the big funs of this hobby. The integration of the DSB and refugium in your tank is both beautiful and effective.

I have seen that you switched from the Profilux P3 to the P4. I'm trying to make up my mind about this. Overall, I'm happy with the P3, but I would like to be able to control my Mitrax fixtures through Profilux, and If I understand it the right way you need the P4 Wi-Fi abilities for that, and also would like to add a redox probe, which would need the corresponding card for the P3 (I understand that card is included with the P4).

Do you think the switch is worth of it?

I hope you and your family stay safe. Sweden is doing a better job than Spain dealing with the coronavirus

Thank you

Yes I switched rather early - I need to have experiences of this new platform. However my new P4 broke down after a while and I switch back to P3. I got it repaired (for free) but wait to the switch back until I had build and test my new cabinet. I love the P3 - it has been a workhorse for many years but the p4 is the future. There have been development in P4 that has not been to the P3 (as logging dosing pumps, to use 32 pumps and so on) that I do not know if they will be adapted to p3 or not. There is also abilities of the P3 thats have not been transferred into the P4 (at least not yet) - like a virtual display and dynamic nominal values. However - I think that P4 is a stable platform nowadays so a switch in order to gain coming features could be a good idea.

But i think you are wrong when you think that you can´t manage your mitras through P3. I think that you can do that but you have to purchase the special wifi module expansion card for mitras (you need to do that with p4 too - p4 alone can´t control the mitras) If you have the 3.x ex - you have both redox, ph and salinity. 3.x ex correspond to P4 and p3.x correspond to p4E


I think that in the long run - a switch can be good - it depends on what you want to do with the controller in the future


We still not known which strategy will be the best - you shout down the country and here - it has been more of a step-by-step tightening of the rules. You will have the challenge when you are opening up the society - we will not need to open it up as fast as you have to do.

Sincerely Lasse

 

[Lasse]

I need a little bit more movement - this is the classic way to do it

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My aquarium is overgrown and it is difficult to hide new pumps and I can´t glue in new rocks (or modules) - now I need some creativity.

OK

take a fake stone

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Drill a hole

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Glue a acrylic plate

Stay tuned - to be continued

Sincerely Lasse

 

[chema]

Thank you

Yes I switched rather early - I need to have experiences of this new platform. However my new P4 broke down after a while and I switch back to P3. I got it repaired (for free) but wait to the switch back until I had build and test my new cabinet. I love the P3 - it has been a workhorse for many years but the p4 is the future. There have been development in P4 that has not been to the P3 (as logging dosing pumps, to use 32 pumps and so on) that I do not know if they will be adapted to p3 or not. There is also abilities of the P3 thats have not been transferred into the P4 (at least not yet) - like a virtual display and dynamic nominal values. However - I think that P4 is a stable platform nowadays so a switch in order to gain coming features could be a good idea.

But i think you are wrong when you think that you can´t manage your mitras through P3. I think that you can do that but you have to purchase the special wifi module expansion card for mitras (you need to do that with p4 too - p4 alone can´t control the mitras) If you have the 3.x ex - you have both redox, ph and salinity. 3.x ex correspond to P4 and p3.x correspond to p4E


I think that in the long run - a switch can be good - it depends on what you want to do with the controller in the future


We still not known which strategy will be the best - you shout down the country and here - it has been more of a step-by-step tightening of the rules. You will have the challenge when you are opening up the society - we will not need to open it up as fast as you have to do.

Sincerely Lasse

Thanks a lot Lasse. I thought that P4 already had Wi-Fi module for the Mitras. I'll check that out. I may have a nice deal for a P4 mega set. Therefore comparing the costs of buying separately the Wi-Fi module, the redox card and the redox probe, and the deal for the set (which also includes the conductivity probe and a PAB powerbar), it could be advantageous to decide on the P4 set.

Well....decisions...

 

[Brew12]

Thanks a lot Lasse. I thought that P4 already had Wi-Fi module for the Mitras. I'll check that out. I may have a nice deal for a P4 mega set. Therefore comparing the costs of buying separately the Wi-Fi module, the redox card and the redox probe, and the deal for the set (which also includes the conductivity probe and a PAB powerbar), it could be advantageous to decide on the P4 set.

Well....decisions...

I think the P4 can control the Mitras units via Wi-Fi but it isn't as seemless as if you use the communication card. I use the communication card in my P4.