Lighting that won't need upgrading

A. grandis

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True. But I think using corals as a gauge isn't a bad way to go. I moved a bunch of hammer frags in to a 20 long a month ago and put two old kessil a360w over it because that's what I had laying around. And low and behind the hammers absolutely loved it. They are about 12" over the water and running at 100%.
So then keep T5s for 5 years. Same thing, right?
Metal halides can last until they don't come on. How many years?
That's not the way we do reefing responsibly.
 

zalick

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So then keep T5s for 5 years. Same thing, right?
Metal halides can last until they don't come on. How many years?
That's not the way we do reefing responsibly.
You lost me here.

If a 5yr old T5 bulb provided light that allowed coral to thrive I would certainly use it.
 
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JL15219

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I honestly didn't even take the led degradation in to account...so 5 years is what is recommended/or I could also use the corals as a guage as well right?
 

zalick

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I honestly didn't even take the led degradation in to account...so 5 years is what is recommended/or I could also use the corals as a guage as well right?
It's a debated topic. I think quite a bit is unknown about LEDs over time because they are constantly upgrading an innovating. This year's LEDs are likely much better for coral than LEDs from 5 years ago. So it's really hard to make a generalization.

In general corals will tell you a lot about water quality, lighting and general tank conditions. But it might be harder to determine that lightening is slowly failing your corals because they adapt fairly well and it's not a steep drop off where you can say "wow, it's been 1 year and now my corals obviously hate the lights"

People came up with some of these rules: 12months, 18months and 5 years by measuring PAR drop off at that point.

There are some graphs people posted in this forum showing the drop offs. It's interesting that for some lights (Halides I think) you see a 20% drop in output at 12 months but them a much slower decline over the next 6 - 12 months.

People also talk about spectrum shift over time but I think that's far more controversial and there are some studies that show the shift is so minimal, if at all, that it doesn't matter.
 

EuphylliaAddict

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Hi I am new to reefing and would like some advice on lighting a 29 gallon aquarium. I plan to start with soft corals and lps then eventually sps but just want get the light that will allow me to go from soft corals to sps without having to upgrade a bunch of times. If I absolutely have to upgrade I would like an option that allows me to build on the light that was already purchased if that makes sense.
Any Advice?

I would prefer something that doesn't have to be hung from the ceiling if possible.

30x12X18 LxWxH Forgot to add dimensions.
Ai hydra 16hd with a tank mount. Use a par meter and watch some YouTube videos by BRS tv on lighting
 
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JL15219

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It's a debated topic. I think quite a bit is unknown about LEDs over time because they are constantly upgrading an innovating. This year's LEDs are likely much better for coral than LEDs from 5 years ago. So it's really hard to make a generalization.

In general corals will tell you a lot about water quality, lighting and general tank conditions. But it might be harder to determine that lightening is slowly failing your corals because they adapt fairly well and it's not a steep drop off where you can say "wow, it's been 1 year and now my corals obviously hate the lights"

People came up with some of these rules: 12months, 18months and 5 years by measuring PAR drop off at that point.

There are some graphs people posted in this forum showing the drop offs. It's interesting that for some lights (Halides I think) you see a 20% drop in output at 12 months but them a much slower decline over the next 6 - 12 months.

People also talk about spectrum shift over time but I think that's far more controversial and there are some studies that show the shift is so minimal, if at all, that it doesn't matter.
I see what you mean....
 
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JL15219

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Ai hydra 16hd with a tank mount. Use a par meter and watch some YouTube videos by BRS tv on lighting
That was my first light option after watching BRS TV but after watching some of their other stuff I was "oh those look good I want those now" then watch another and the same thing and many people also seem to advocate for t5s as well ...I think I need to watch the show down video again lol
 

CMMorgan

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As you can see... you opened a can here. Everyone has an opinion about lighting. LOL We all have our favorites. I love shimmer. I'd look at @Kessil ... perhaps 1 A360X. It has a 30 x 30 coverage area and they set the bar on spectrum. If you ever grow the tank, you can add fixtures with K-link cables. The light can be mounted on multiple types of brackets if you do not want to hang from the ceiling. If you want to get fancy.... you can get the dongle or the controller to expand your controllability and programming.
I'll be installing mine soon to replace some original model AI LEDs. Those must be ten years old and they still work - sort of. LOL You can get a lot of life out of these fixtures. I would not want to change bulbs, that's just me.
 

zalick

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As you can see... you opened a can here. Everyone has an opinion about lighting. LOL We all have our favorites. I love shimmer. I'd look at @Kessil ... perhaps 1 A360X. It has a 30 x 30 coverage area and they set the bar on spectrum. If you ever grow the tank, you can add fixtures with K-link cables. The light can be mounted on multiple types of brackets if you do not want to hang from the ceiling. If you want to get fancy.... you can get the dongle or the controller to expand your controllability and programming.
I'll be installing mine soon to replace some original model AI LEDs. Those must be ten years old and they still work - sort of. LOL You can get a lot of life out of these fixtures. I would not want to change bulbs, that's just me.
@JL15219 - Agreed, this would be a good way to go. You could start with 1 and put your higher light corals underneath and lower light on the edges. If you find you need more light, you could add a second. And getting a used one, that is a year or two old, would be a good way to start. Just make sure you see a receipt of the purchase. :)

Owning 6 kessil a360 I can say from my experience that 30x30 or even 24x24 for a single unit is not realistic If you want LPS or SPS to thrive throughout. I've found that about 15x15 is the sweet spot and the overlapping section is really great.
 
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JL15219

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As you can see... you opened a can here. Everyone has an opinion about lighting. LOL We all have our favorites. I love shimmer. I'd look at @Kessil ... perhaps 1 A360X. It has a 30 x 30 coverage area and they set the bar on spectrum. If you ever grow the tank, you can add fixtures with K-link cables. The light can be mounted on multiple types of brackets if you do not want to hang from the ceiling. If you want to get fancy.... you can get the dongle or the controller to expand your controllability and programming.
I'll be installing mine soon to replace some original model AI LEDs. Those must be ten years old and they still work - sort of. LOL You can get a lot of life out of these fixtures. I would not want to change bulbs, that's just me.
@JL15219 - Agreed, this would be a good way to go. You could start with 1 and put your higher light corals underneath and lower light on the edges. If you find you need more light, you could add a second. And getting a used one, that is a year or two old, would be a good way to start. Just make sure you see a receipt of the purchase. :)

Owning 6 kessil a360 I can say from my experience that 30x30 or even 24x24 for a single unit is not realistic If you want LPS or SPS to thrive throughout. I've found that about 15x15 is the sweet spot and the overlapping section is really great.
Okay guys thank you I will look into those as well....I didn't even know they covered a 30 x 30 thought it was 24 x 24 but I could try one then see if I need another if I go this route
 

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Another ATI Sunpower vote here. I know you mentioned you'd prefer not to hang anything from the ceiling, but it really couldn't be easier. It's two tiny holes in the drywall that can be fixed with some lightweight spackling in minutes if you ever take down the light. It's really the only way to go as the ATI comes with a sleek, infinitely adjustable hanging system which allows you to quickly adjust the height or the fore and aft orientation without tools. The light just floats above the tank.
 
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JL15219

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Another ATI Sunpower vote here. I know you mentioned you'd prefer not to hang anything from the ceiling, but it really couldn't be easier. It's two tiny holes in the drywall that can be fixed with some lightweight spackling in minutes if you ever take down the light. It's really the only way to go as the ATI comes with a sleek, infinitely adjustable hanging system which allows you to quickly adjust the height or the fore and aft orientation without tools. The light just floats above the tank.
It's not necessary the small holes but the odd sloping ceiling...and someone said there is a waiting period

A13ECE80-F700-48CB-8AB1-5D3B7C769D30.jpeg
 

Midrats

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That ceiling is no problem, but I understand. I just wanted to assure you that hanging an ATI is really easy. As far as the availability of 4 bulb units in 24", the wait will be forever as they have discontinued the four bulb units. ATI still has several dimmable units available in 4x24 however. They are worth the extra money. One cord, much quieter as the fans are temperature controlled, and the built-in controller is nice for ramping. I have mine running on a nice 12 hour bell curve approximating the sun. Don't let the 50 hour bulb burn in put you off either. That's where the easily adjustable hanging system comes into play. Just raise the light and run it at 100% for a week, then you can lower it and start ramping if you like.
 
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JL15219

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That ceiling is no problem, but I understand. I just wanted to assure you that hanging an ATI is really easy. As far as the availability of 4 bulb units in 24", the wait will be forever as they have discontinued the four bulb units. ATI still has several dimmable units available in 4x24 however. They are worth the extra money. One cord, much quieter as the fans are temperature controlled, and the built-in controller is nice for ramping. I have mine running on a nice 12 hour bell curve approximating the sun. Don't let the 50 hour bulb burn in put you off either. That's where the easily adjustable hanging system comes into play. Just raise the light and run it at 100% for a week, then you can lower it and start ramping if you like.
Oh that's nice didn't know they had a ramping option....how do the ATI compare to the Aquatic Life hybrids fixtures?
 

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Oh that's nice didn't know they had a ramping option....how do the ATI compare to the Aquatic Life hybrids fixtures?
Better reflectors. Active cooling so the bulbs run at the optimal temperature for maximum light output. Excellent customer service.
 

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They do have a splash lens that needs to be used for the cooling to work properly, also to protect the silver plated reflectors. Let me see if I can find a pic to post.
 

zalick

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Would you happen to have a picture of the fixture on your tank? just curious....do they have some type of splash guard?
I'll take a pic of my two kessil a360 over my 20 long later today as well.


I do still recommend a T5 fixture. It will grow coral so well and is really awesome. Down the road if you decide to upgrade tanks etc., you can change lights and keep it as a backup. As you can see from @Midrats photo above, the T5 is beautiful light with perfect spread.
 

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