Live or Dry Rock

OP
OP
Angel_V_the_reefer

Angel_V_the_reefer

Well-Known Member
View Badges
Joined
Nov 9, 2020
Messages
524
Reaction score
296
Location
Houston, Texas
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
GO LIVE ROCK 1000%%%%. i just broke down my 15g because i started with dry rock! I got dinos in my tank and couldnt shake them because of the lack of biodiversity. I started up a new tank with KP aquatic live rock which should make a world of a difference! Been in the hobby for 8 years had all successful tanks and this is the first time i started with dry rock and i will never do i again!! I see so many more problems with dinos and cyano because alot more people are starting with the dry rock nowadays. I think its an absolute must to start with live rock!
I definitely am.

i question I am curious about is, when one adds LR, that would suggest that ich and other parasites could be present in the rock that can affect fish life.

Many QT fish but start with LR, I think this is bananas.

i want to hear how you guys go about introducing LR and Fish. Heck, I’m curious as to who actually QT coral and inverts for that matter
 

damsels are not mean

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Nov 14, 2021
Messages
1,952
Reaction score
2,151
Location
Chicago
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
IMO the best rock you could ever get would be rock from an established and thriving display... It has all the good that'll actually live long term in your tank and little to no bad like you risk with wild rocks. I wouldn't completely write off "wet rock" from the fish store either, the stuff I got was great and had a lot of life actually. Even a free mushroom coral and at least 3 species of sponges.

I like the idea of fresh wild rock but I question its practicality in the long run vs its cheaper local competitors like your fish store or some seed bits from another reefer. Sure it's got lots of stuff on it. But it has lots of annoyances and most of the really cool stuff won't last. Those problems are amplified for a beginner. The idea that it provides the "best" biodiversity is sort of short-sighted, because I doubt whatever difference there is between wild and used rock lasts any real length of time. Again why I recommend some "used" rock. It's already figured out what works in an aquarium. I want to set up my next tank with wild rock but I'm experienced and after some specific goals with that.

Anyways dry rock is the worst. I'll take a dozen pistol shrimps that I have to catch over a dry rock tank. You can incorporate dry rock but you should really get at least SOME live rock to seed the tank with various microbes, decomposers, bacteria, etc. that help keep things in balance. Think of it like soil. What do you want to put plants in? The soil full of worms and mushrooms and all sorts of microscopic life or the dry dusty crap that is left after monsanto crops?
 

damsels are not mean

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Nov 14, 2021
Messages
1,952
Reaction score
2,151
Location
Chicago
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I definitely am.

i question I am curious about is, when one adds LR, that would suggest that ich and other parasites could be present in the rock that can affect fish life.

Many QT fish but start with LR, I think this is bananas.

i want to hear how you guys go about introducing LR and Fish. Heck, I’m curious as to who actually QT coral and inverts for that matter
First I applaud your attention to QT. Many beginners end up really frustrated because they don't and regret it, but the likelihood of any parasite on rock is pretty low. Especially if it is rock that is kept in a tub for weeks without any fish. That said, it's good to stick with what will work and not take any extra risks when you're starting.

To be 100% certain no ich, velvet, etc. is in there you can just run the tank fishless for 76 days. Then there is a practically 0 chance of getting an outbreak. That 76 days figure is based on a single bad case that may have been even a flawed data point. It's not been repeated. Most studies on ich lifespan in a fishless system suggest a few weeks is the typical limit. 76 days is considered a full QT for any surface be it a coral skeleton, frag plug, snail shell, or whatever else.
During the 76 days you can add inverts or corals that are either from ich free sources or quarantined using the same 76 day timeframe. Again this is a question of risk you want to take. I've never gotten ich on anything and I haven't ever quarantined anything except a few fish. I suspect the risk is very low with aquacultured frags.
 
OP
OP
Angel_V_the_reefer

Angel_V_the_reefer

Well-Known Member
View Badges
Joined
Nov 9, 2020
Messages
524
Reaction score
296
Location
Houston, Texas
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
First I applaud your attention to QT. Many beginners end up really frustrated because they don't and regret it, but the likelihood of any parasite on rock is pretty low. Especially if it is rock that is kept in a tub for weeks without any fish. That said, it's good to stick with what will work and not take any extra risks when you're starting.

To be 100% certain no ich, velvet, etc. is in there you can just run the tank fishless for 76 days. Then there is a practically 0 chance of getting an outbreak. That 76 days figure is based on a single bad case that may have been even a flawed data point. It's not been repeated. Most studies on ich lifespan in a fishless system suggest a few weeks is the typical limit. 76 days is considered a full QT for any surface be it a coral skeleton, frag plug, snail shell, or whatever else.
During the 76 days you can add inverts or corals that are either from ich free sources or quarantined using the same 76 day timeframe. Again this is a question of risk you want to take. I've never gotten ich on anything and I haven't ever quarantined anything except a few fish. I suspect the risk is very low with aquacultured frags.

thank you for the write up.

i think I’m best going with at least a few weeks of fallow that way I can also spot any potential hitchhikers that can cause problems in the future.

mean while I’ll QT the fish as well in a separate room prepping them for their new home.

looking down the road, Coral/ Invert QT might be a great way to spot for similar problems, however, not sure how much I like the idea of having to deal with a second tank, especially in my very small room lol
 

AydenLincoln

Pufferfish lover!
View Badges
Joined
Mar 27, 2022
Messages
4,883
Reaction score
7,229
Location
Easton
Rating - 100%
1   0   0
I like CaribSea LifeRock or live rock from the tanks/bins at the fish store. You still get lots of beneficial bacteria and less nasty hitchhikers. Plus I personally like the purple color it comes in. It’s a personal decision with no right answer…and you can have a thriving reef tank with both.
 
Last edited:

Alexopora

Well-Known Member
View Badges
Joined
Jul 14, 2018
Messages
883
Reaction score
805
Location
Malaysia
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Have to agree that live rock is the best. But I’d say you probably dont need too much of it? As you can mix both live and dry rock. With your live rock being your seed. But start with live rocks first and basically “cure” by basically not doing anything and just let the tank run. Dont add any coral although some fish is fine. If you are patient enough, let the tank run with some fish for about 4-6 months. I had a tank that just ran with a mixture of live rocks and dry rocks alone for about a year and must say, I have just been dumping in Hammers and Torches and the results amazing.
 

Attachments

  • 0C26607C-0819-4F25-8373-74D1EDE5DE82.jpeg
    0C26607C-0819-4F25-8373-74D1EDE5DE82.jpeg
    206.3 KB · Views: 27
  • 7331E9E0-12F6-4CC3-A374-9B8B4A913A8B.jpeg
    7331E9E0-12F6-4CC3-A374-9B8B4A913A8B.jpeg
    191.7 KB · Views: 26

reefdummy

New Member
View Badges
Joined
May 16, 2021
Messages
21
Reaction score
43
Location
lower lake
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Without a doubt, ocean aquacultured live rock will provide the most diverse microorganisms and create a stable environment.
We categorize rock as Base rock (plain and simple, excellent for cycling a new tank and delivering a plethora of micro critters), or Premium rock (highly variable exterior lifeforms, not good for cycling a new tank due to organisms on the outside of the rock, excellent for mature tanks).
Ocean live rock shipped in water should not be cured in a bin/barrel, it requires life support just like an invert or fish.
Ocean live rock shipped in damp paper should be cured, because its health is compromised.
What is your website to see what kind of rock you have
 

TnFishwater98

Drink more fishwater there! And I still want more!
View Badges
Joined
Nov 7, 2017
Messages
6,544
Reaction score
8,452
Location
Nashville TN
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Hey there R2R

I’m setting up a nuvo 14 nano that will house mainly hammer corals.

going bare bottom (BB) on this build and curious whether to purchase live rock, or go with the basic dry rock method.

i am in no rush to get corals, I plan on keeping the tank fish only for a few months.

my question is, if I go live rock, 1. what does the biodiversity do for my system

2. What’s the difference between basic live rock and ‘premium’ rock that comes from the ocean

3. In my head, LR can present ich in the aystem. Should I bother QT my fish in that case ?

thanks !
Live Rock is the way to go especially with that small of a tank.
 

Mastering the art of locking and unlocking water pathways: What type of valves do you have on your aquarium plumbing?

  • Ball valves.

    Votes: 68 52.3%
  • Gate valves.

    Votes: 67 51.5%
  • Check valves.

    Votes: 33 25.4%
  • None.

    Votes: 29 22.3%
  • Other.

    Votes: 9 6.9%
Back
Top