LoCo Reef Aquaforest Ocean Guard 275 Cube

[swormke]

New build of my Aquaforest Ocean Guard 275 cube tank in my home office to supplement my RedSea XXL625 main display tank.

I'll be making updates to this last as the build progresses.

Tank & Sump Details

Model	Aquaforest Ocean Guard 275
Display Dimensions	24" x 22" x 22"
Display Capacity	48 Gallons
Sump Capacity	25 Gallons

Equipment​

Filtration​

Device	Model	Details
Return Pump	Reef Octopus VarioS 4	40 Watts 14.7' max head height 1056 GPS max flow rate
Protein Skimmer	AquaMaxx ConeS CO-1	6.3" x 8.7" footprint 19.7" High Recommended water level 9.5" Rated up to 90G (heavy bioload)
Filter Sock	4" Mesh	250 micron
Filter Cup	4" x 10" RedSea	Filled with SeaChem Matrix Topped with Pinky Filter cutout
Return Pump Baffle	SeaChem Matrix	In mesh filter media bag, placed between the protein skimmer chamber and return chamber Topped with Pinky Filter to trap detritus

ATO and Environmental​

Device	Model	Details
ATO System	Tunze Osmolator 3155
ATO Reservoir	Innovative Marine/ AuqaGadget Hydrofill Reservoir	15 Gallon (because it is super dry in Colorado)
Temperature Controller	Inkbird 2-probe Wi-Fi Controller	Used for backup to Apex controller
Heaters	2x - BRS Titanium 200W	200W will heat up to 75 gallons
Heater Mount	2x - Innovative Marine Helio PTC Titanium Element Holder

Power, Control and Automation​

�

Device	Model	Details
Automation Controller	Neptune A3 Apex Jr.	I use the pro on my RedSea, but find that the salinity probe is very erratic and inaccurate so I opted for something simpler, but still expandable with the EB832 add-on.
Power Bar	Neptune EB832
pH	Neptune pH Probe
Temperature	Neptune Temperature Probe
ORP	Neptune ORP Probe
Switch Control	Neptune Breakout Box	Magnetic switch for under cabinet lighting
Input Module	Neptune PM1	Allows for addition of the Breakout Box Allows for addition of the ORP probe

Flow​

Device	Model	Details
Power Head	Reef Octopus OP-2	DC wave pump to supplement the gyre I plan to add in the future.

Lighting​

---

Livestock​

Fish​

Coral​

 

[SPR1968]

Great start, and we need pictures!

 

[swormke]

Basic tank and sump plumbing setup and initial leak test complete. ​

Filled the overflow chamber with RO/DI water overnight and checked for leaks in plumbing and fittings.

After verifying no leaks I leveled the cabinet and tank and filled with water to set for a day-or so to make sure that it didn't settle because this one is sitting on top of carpet .

I don't love the carpet situation, but it is in my basement on top of concrete so it shouldn't move around much at all. Adding solid surface flooring under this one isn't an option like it was for my RedSea XXL625 because it will look weird and break up the room too much.

Here is it full of water waiting for the final level-check and any necessary adjustments.

And a quick time lapse of the basic install...

 

[swormke]

Aquascape Time​

While the tank is settling with water in it for the final level check I thought I'd work on my aquascape. This aquarium came with a starter package which included a 40 pound box of Aquaforest AF Rock. I've never used it before, but it had a bunch of these shelf-like rocks in it that I thought would work great for what I wan't for this SPS dominant tank and it had some cool arch and base pieces so I thought I'd give it a shot. It's also a nice pink/purple color so it doesn't look so stark white like the marco rock I used in my main display tank (which BTW is now covered in beautiful purple coraline algae).

Goals​

1. Old-tree in a Bonsai style
2. Sense of movement up and to the left
3. Narrow, but realistic base that looked like an old gnarly tree
4. Large areas of attaching SPS that will be easy to provide flow to
5. Overhangs for more light sensitive coral
6. Caves for Gobies and Pistol shrimp

I used these as my inspiration

I ended up with this, and I really love it!

---

Measure the inside dimensions of the tank​

Not quite a cube: 22 3/4 x 20 7/8

Layout the dimensions and the rock on a table OUTSIDE​

I did this in the garage with the doors open because the fumes from the superglue and accelerator are pretty harsh. I use the end of the table as the front of the tank, and just put some blue tape down for the inside dimensions of the tank. DON'T FORGET TO INCLUDE THE OVERFLOW BOX!

TIP: If you use blue tape that is as thick as the minimum distance from the glass you want your rock work you don't have to mess around with building a cardboard sides. Just use the outside edge as the perimeter and keep the rock work inside the blue tape!

Fit and refit the rocks and then glue them up​

I always like a tree/bonsai shape to my rock work, and where this one is going to be placed I thought it would work great. I wanted it to look like it was sweeping up and to the left from the front because as you walk down our stairs and turn into the poker room you will see the left side of the tank. Viewing it from the right side is much less important because it is almost completely covered by a small wall on the side. On my main display I made some really cool rock sculptures that I thought would be great for attaching coral to, but I realized now after a year that they were so thin that it really limited what I could do and how to space things.

I had really good luck with the Jurassic Gel Glue and Bob Smith Industries Instaset accelerator on my last build with the marco rock so I thought I would try it again on the AF-rock. It worked great, and maybe even better on the AF-Rock because there was more surface area to attach it to.

TIP: Don't forget to wear some rubber gloves so you aren't covered in superglue when you are done!

Put it in the tank and admire your awesome work!​

 

[swormke]

Sump Heat and Filtration Installation​

Space is at a premium in this sump, and I have a strong need to have a lot of clean lines and order in my sump when it comes to equipment and wires so planning out where to place everything is critical.

Here is the plan and a picture of the final results. All the gory details are below.

---

Heaters​

Probably one of the biggest challenges was to figure out where to place my heaters. I have a few tenants for my heater approach, but the biggest one is probably redundancy. This means that I want to make sure I have two heaters and two controls for temperatures and two ways to measure the temperature of the water. The result is that I have the following pieces of equipment in play for my heating strategy.

• 2x 200w BRS Titanium heating elements
• 1x Inkbird 2-probe Wi-Fi Controller
• 1x Apex A3 Jr temperature probe

As an aside, I chose the BRS titanium heaters because I have had great luck with the in my other tank, but also because of the following reasons.

• Cost - They are very reasonable since they don't have a controller
• Size - They are much smaller than many other brands like Jager, and they seem to be the shortest and can be in the shallower parts of the sump if required
• Mounting Options - There are many third-party mounting options that are available for these besides the suction cups

Configuration​

The way that I configured this is to use the Apex to monitor and control on the outlet when it senses temperatures below 77.5 F and off above 78.0 F. I have the Apex configured to send a text and email alarm if the temperature is at 78.5 as well.

I use the Inkbird controller as a safety check on the high-end, but since there is no real connection to the Apex from the Inkbird there is no way to force the outlet on if the temperature is too low. So I have my Inkbird set at a high of 78.5, which will shut off the heaters if the Apex fails to shut them off for some reason. It will also sound an alarm if it goes above that.

Placement​

I want the heaters in the sump for aesthetics and since there isn't much room in there there are only a few options. I ultimately decided to use two Innovative Marine Helio PTC Titanium Element Holders and put the heaters on either side of the return pipe in the first chamber of the sump. I could also put the magnets on the outside of the sump, reducing my chances of a magnet leaching into the water by 50%.

I have used suction cups in the past, but only have about a 50% success rate of them holding long-term. I also bought and tested the Icecap Dual Magnetic Heater Mount, which is a less expensive option, but it was less flexible for placement and the magnet was not strong enough to hold the two titanium heaters with out them sliding down the glass.

I did try to put the heaters in the skimmer chamber, but no matter how I positioned them they just seemed to take up too much space and I was worried about my skimmer's foot print. Technically they will fit according to the tech specs and space in the sump, but I felt it would be just too tight and leave little room for anything else. I am really happy that they fit in the first chamber because they are out of the way and not taking up any useful real-estate in the larger chambers.

Filtration​

I am waiting to put my skimmer in, but I wanted to make sure I had all of my biofiltration in place and it allowed for proper flow through the system. I wanted to take advantage of as much of the area as I could and add extra bio-filtration where possible to maximize the surface area I have for nitrifying bacteria. In my larger tank my refuguim's floor is lined with 2" bio-blocks, but this sump is too tight for that so I am going to try to add some bags of media where I can.

I made a few changes to the stock filter socks. First, I replaced the felt filter sock that the tank came with and instead am using 250 micron mesh sock in the second chamber. I don't really like the felt socks because they are too hard to clean so I prefer the mesh socks. I usually change these out 2 times a week under normal circumstances. To clean them I just turn them inside-out and give them a quick rinse in the sink while rubbing them together for 30 second or so and they are good as new.

Second, the tank came with a starter kit that included some Aquaforest Life Bio Fill filter media, so I am using that in a RedSea filter cup in the third chamber with a pinky filter cutout. Make sure if you do this you hang on to the clear plastic rings that are on the felt and mesh socks, they are needed as spacers for any other aftermarket sock or cup to fit. I have had great luck with Seachem Matrix so I am using that in filter bags in the second chamber and in the baffle between the skimmer chamber and the return chamber and topped with pinky filter.

TIP: Don't lose the small plastic spacer rings for the filter cups/socks because without it standard replacements won't fit.

Once this was all installed I realized I could get a small bag of filter media in the third chamber under my filter cup so I tossed som Matrix in a bag and put it in the corner.

Next step, ATO installation.,,

 

[dstockwell]

Lookin good

 

[swormke]

Auto Top Off Install​

For this tank I decided to use the Tunze Osmolator 3155 auto top off system instead of the Neptune APEX ATK that I usually use. There were a few reasons for this. First, I had one in a box that was never used so I didn't want to buy something else. Second, there is no where near enough space for the Neptune ATK in this sump. It has worked very well for me in my main tank and the float valve saved my butt once when the siphon break stopped working on the tank, but for this sump it was a no go.

For my ATO reservoir I used the Innovative Marine/ AuqaGadget Hydrofill Reservoir 15 gallon version. I love these reservoirs. I have them for all of my tanks, even my pico tank (5 gal). They are relatively economical, easy to see the level, mess and hassle free to fill using the drawer, and look great sitting next to the tanks or under a desk.

I knew that the 10L/2.6 gallon reservoir that was built into the sump wasn't going to be big enough here in Colorado unless I want to fill it every day. It is so dry due to elevation and climate that on my current display tank I fill between 15-20 gallons a week which means I can assume on this one I will fill between 8-12 gallons. This morning alone I filled 25 gallons of water between my display, cube, pico and 2 QT tanks. I also travel a fair amount for work and personally, and the less I need my fish sitters to do the better off I am.

Install was pretty straight forward of the ATO system and reservoir. I mounted the controller in the sump cabinet because it is too dang ugly to have hanging outside or on the wall, and I put the electronic sensor in the return chamber just below the level of the skimmer chamber's baffle.

Since the sump fills with water when the pumps are off for feeding I needed to use the extra magnet and holder for the "Too High" float switch. I placed this below the max water level, but above the sump level when the pumps are off to avoid alarms. I plan to put an APEX optical sensor at the max water level for the sump so I can shut off the ATO outlet as a last resort.

Lastly, I made sure that the fill tube was out of the water and above the max sump water level mark so that I didn't syphon any water back into the reservoir from the sump.

The only real problem I had was that the pump wouldn't prime when I put it in, but I found in this thread that if you just turn it upside down and release all the air it will start to prime itself. Problem solved and working great.

 

[Jason Scalise]

Auto Top Off Install​

For this tank I decided to use the Tunze Osmolator 3155 auto top off system instead of the Neptune APEX ATK that I usually use. There were a few reasons for this. First, I had one in a box that was never used so I didn't want to buy something else. Second, there is no where near enough space for the Neptune ATK in this sump. It has worked very well for me in my main tank and the float valve saved my butt once when the siphon break stopped working on the tank, but for this sump it was a no go.

For my ATO reservoir I used the Innovative Marine/ AuqaGadget Hydrofill Reservoir 15 gallon version. I love these reservoirs. I have them for all of my tanks, even my pico tank (5 gal). They are relatively economical, easy to see the level, mess and hassle free to fill using the drawer, and look great sitting next to the tanks or under a desk.

I knew that the 10L/2.6 gallon reservoir that was built into the sump wasn't going to be big enough here in Colorado unless I want to fill it every day. It is so dry due to elevation and climate that on my current display tank I fill between 15-20 gallons a week which means I can assume on this one I will fill between 8-12 gallons. This morning alone I filled 25 gallons of water between my display, cube, pico and 2 QT tanks. I also travel a fair amount for work and personally, and the less I need my fish sitters to do the better off I am.

Install was pretty straight forward of the ATO system and reservoir. I mounted the controller in the sump cabinet because it is too dang ugly to have hanging outside or on the wall, and I put the electronic sensor in the return chamber just below the level of the skimmer chamber's baffle.

Since the sump fills with water when the pumps are off for feeding I needed to use the extra magnet and holder for the "Too High" float switch. I placed this below the max water level, but above the sump level when the pumps are off to avoid alarms. I plan to put an APEX optical sensor at the max water level for the sump so I can shut off the ATO outlet as a last resort.

Lastly, I made sure that the fill tube was out of the water and above the max sump water level mark so that I didn't syphon any water back into the reservoir from the sump.

The only real problem I had was that the pump wouldn't prime when I put it in, but I found in this thread that if you just turn it upside down and release all the air it will start to prime itself. Problem solved and working great.

Following with interest as I am considering purchasing this system.
Couple of questions:

What do you plan to do with the sump's built-in ATO reservoir? any thoughts? any thoughts of one day making it into a refugium and using the normal refugium space for something else (I have some ideas in my head but without first-hand experience with this system, I dont know if it is feasible)?

Also, given your plan for an SPS tank, do you anticipate adding any UV sterilizer down the road and if so, thoughts on placement? overkill?

 

[swormke]

Following with interest as I am considering purchasing this system.
Couple of questions:

What do you plan to do with the sump's built-in ATO reservoir? any thoughts? any thoughts of one day making it into a refugium and using the normal refugium space for something else (I have some ideas in my head but without first-hand experience with this system, I dont know if it is feasible)?

Also, given your plan for an SPS tank, do you anticipate adding any UV sterilizer down the road and if so, thoughts on placement? overkill?

I don't plan to do anything with it really. It is pretty small and I think a refugium would be a stretch because I think it would be impossible to clean out or get the macro to tumble or move.

If I add a UV filter I will probably just mount on the wall behind my external ATO res and use an external pump or something. I have one on my main display and I just have it horizontal on the floor behind the tank.

 

[swormke]

Leaking O-Ring On Gate Valve​

Looks like the first problem with the gate valve. The o-ring on the valve assembly was torn and leaking. This didn't start until after the first leak test and I think was probably made worse after tuning the drain. The twisting of the valve must have moved the o-ring enough to make it start to leak. I had my concerns about the quality of the valve on install, and was considering re-plumbing the drain buy decided against it.

I called the retailer (BRS) and they had to reach out to AF because it was drop shipped to see what they wanted to do about it. I also reached out to AF to see if I could make any progress, but both of them were pretty unsatisfactory. They will need to send me a new part from Poland with an expected arrival time of January.

In the mean time I was able to find an o-ring from a local hardware store that worked, but the sizing is a bit strange and it wasn't a perfect fit. I think it is probably metric, and I can't find any information on the manufacturer of the valve (Netwell Systems) to see if I can get more information. BRS is also trying to figure out the right size o-ring, but for now the leak has stopped.

I will likely re-plumb this with a Spears gate valve at some point just to make sure I have something I trust and know I can get parts for. Besides, I can upgrade to purple PVC to match the rest of the sump.

Ignore the gurgle in the video, was still tuning the drain when the leak happened...

 

[swormke]

Apex Breakout Box Install​

I added some LED cabinet lights to add some much needed illumination to the sump area while I am working on it. The litever kit came with an on/off switch that I installed, but I always kept forgetting to turn it off. I also wanted to be able to add a float switch to my skimmer in the future to shut it off if the cup was full so I decided to install an Apex Breakout I/O box.

I have one of these in my main display as well and use it the same way. The down side to this tank is my choice of the Apex Jr. instead of the Pro because it does not have an I/O input that the breakout box requires. To enable this I needed to also purchase the Apex PM1 module. This is used for adding temperature and pH/ORP probes to the system, but also includes the I/O port with 6 digital inputs.

I decided to put both the module and the breakout box on the top of the sump cabinet to keep them out of the way and save some wall space for things I might want to add in the future. The install is pretty straight forward, and I really love the mounting brackets for the Apex modules because it makes it so easy to place them. It also makes it super easy to connect cables if you have a tight area or can't see them easily.

For the door switch I just used a magnetic switch and stuck them on the cabinet with double sided tape that came with the LED light kit. These need to be connected in Normally Closed mode so I connected one wire to the NC terminal on the switch and to the S11 terminal (switch port 1) on the breakout box, and the other to the common terminal on the switch and the ground on the breakout box. It is important on the breakout box to make sure you start with the terminals fully open so the wires are easy to put in and then tighten them down snug.

Testing with the Apex is easy too, but you need to remember that since it is a cloud based application it can take 30 seconds or so for the status of the switch to update on the interface. The switch action should take immediate effect though. If you have doubts you can jump the cables between the ground and switch to make sure it is opening and closing appropriately.

Last step was to add the switch to my Apex dashboard, label it and program it.

Fallback OFF
Set OFF
If SW-CAB OPEN Then ON

 

[swormke]

Leaking O-Ring On Gate Valve​

Looks like the first problem with the gate valve. The o-ring on the valve assembly was torn and leaking. This didn't start until after the first leak test and I think was probably made worse after tuning the drain. The twisting of the valve must have moved the o-ring enough to make it start to leak. I had my concerns about the quality of the valve on install, and was considering re-plumbing the drain buy decided against it.

I called the retailer (BRS) and they had to reach out to AF because it was drop shipped to see what they wanted to do about it. I also reached out to AF to see if I could make any progress, but both of them were pretty unsatisfactory. They will need to send me a new part from Poland with an expected arrival time of January.

In the mean time I was able to find an o-ring from a local hardware store that worked, but the sizing is a bit strange and it wasn't a perfect fit. I think it is probably metric, and I can't find any information on the manufacturer of the valve (Netwell Systems) to see if I can get more information. BRS is also trying to figure out the right size o-ring, but for now the leak has stopped.

I will likely re-plumb this with a Spears gate valve at some point just to make sure I have something I trust and know I can get parts for. Besides, I can upgrade to purple PVC to match the rest of the sump.

Ignore the gurgle in the video, was still tuning the drain when the leak happened...

Still waiting on my O-ring delivery from Poland to see if that helps the leak. I have tried multiple different o-rings from local stores and Amazon's metric o-ring kit, but each time they come out cut like that again even though I am being very generous with the silicon grease. I have a feeling that there is something wrong with the gate valve itself, but I can't feel anything in there that would cause this.

In the meantime, I have been looking at how to replace that drain setup and gate valve with a US-sized parts. I just don't want to have to deal with this long transit time for parts from Poland if I need them. Especially if I have a gate valve failure and it is an emergency. I feel a lot more comfortable if all of the parts in the setup are standard US sizes because of their availability here in the US.

What I have found is that the bulkhead fittings and connectors are made by a company in Poland called Budmech. I found the replacement parts in their catalog and am working on ordering some parts from them. Luckily I have a co-worker in Poland who is helping me translate and with logistics. If we can figure this out I am going to order multiples of the drain, emergency drain, and gate valve for the future or for others that may need them. It does not appear that there is a US distributor for these parts.

For anyone who is interested here is a link to their catalog link, the part numbers, and snippets of the entries with the parts highlighted.

• Part# 1250007 32mm Angle Valve (Zawór kątowy)
• Part# 1120610 32mm x 1 1/2" Drain Bulkhead Assembly
• Part# 1120509 25mm x 1 1/4" Emergency Drain Bulkhead Assembly
• Part# 1120508 20mm x 1" Return Bulkhead Assembly

 

[swormke]

Protein Skimmer​

I chose to use the AquaMaxx ConeS CO-1 skimmer for this build due to its compact size, easily accessible pump and bio-load rating. This is the first AquaMaxx skimmer I have used, but I have heard pretty good things about them and the size and price was right (I got it during the pre-Black Friday sales).

Sizing the Skimmer​

The chamber for the protein skimmer is really small in this sump and limits the skimmers that you can use. The available space in the skimmer chamber is only 9"x10.5" insdie the chamber and their is an overlapping rim around the chamber that further limits the size when installing. The footprint of the CO-1 is quite small at only 6.3" x 8.7" sit it fits nicely and doesn't feel like I am jamming it in there.. The cup seems much easier to access and remove than my RedSea, but the drain tube is less user friendly and a bit awkwardly placed.

Assembly​

When I unboxed the skimmer it came in many pieces, but assembly was pretty straight forward and the instructions are easy enough to follow. The only thing that I need to consider was cord and cup placement when it was installed in the sump. Was assembled the product is really clean looking and should look great in my white cabinet and sump.

Install​

The install and placement was really straight forward. There is really only one way it will fit and allow for some room around my Apex probes and holder. It is a tight fit, but still really ease to get the cup of to empty it and access the silencer if I need to drain it when it gets water in it.

Break-In and Initial Impressions​

I am happy with the skimmer so far. It is very easy to adjust and the water-height valve is very generous and not as touchy as some others I have used. It seems to make great foam, although my bio-load is pretty non-existent right now, and it is exchanging a lot of air which increased my pH by .3 (7.6 to 7.9).

I did not experience a huge amount of foam and overflow with this skimmer as I have with others in the past. Regardless, I let it run for 10-days without the cup. Followed by another 5 days with the cup, but without the drain hose plug.

I run the water level at about 9" even though the recommended water level is 9.5". If you actually run it at that level you will constantly get water in your silencer. This is because 9.5" is just millimeters below the silencers platform and any variation in water level will cause it to fill with some water and be VERY noisy. Emptying the silencer is a bit hacky too, you need to unscrew the long nylon thumbscrew and pull up the silencer so the water can drain out. Unlike my RedSea skimmer that has just a little plug I can remove to drain it. Changing to 9.0" solved this problem.

Problems​

I did have a problem with the skimmer that required me to contact BRS support. The collection cup was leaking around the base quite bad after about a month of use. I couldn't see any cracks or breaks, but the seal must not have been good. I emailed support and had a new cup in 3-day and everything was working great again.

 

[DCMW1]

Thanks for all of the great information. I can't wait to read more about your journey with this build.

 

[GDiaz]

Still waiting on my O-ring delivery from Poland to see if that helps the leak. I have tried multiple different o-rings from local stores and Amazon's metric o-ring kit, but each time they come out cut like that again even though I am being very generous with the silicon grease. I have a feeling that there is something wrong with the gate valve itself, but I can't feel anything in there that would cause this.

In the meantime, I have been looking at how to replace that drain setup and gate valve with a US-sized parts. I just don't want to have to deal with this long transit time for parts from Poland if I need them. Especially if I have a gate valve failure and it is an emergency. I feel a lot more comfortable if all of the parts in the setup are standard US sizes because of their availability here in the US.

What I have found is that the bulkhead fittings and connectors are made by a company in Poland called Budmech. I found the replacement parts in their catalog and am working on ordering some parts from them. Luckily I have a co-worker in Poland who is helping me translate and with logistics. If we can figure this out I am going to order multiples of the drain, emergency drain, and gate valve for the future or for others that may need them. It does not appear that there is a US distributor for these parts.

For anyone who is interested here is a link to their catalog link, the part numbers, and snippets of the entries with the parts highlighted.

• Part# 1250007 32mm Angle Valve (Zawór kątowy)
• Part# 1120610 32mm x 1 1/2" Drain Bulkhead Assembly
• Part# 1120509 25mm x 1 1/4" Emergency Drain Bulkhead Assembly
• Part# 1120508 20mm x 1" Return Bulkhead Assembly

This looks like a really annoying problem to have. Sorry you’re going through this. I’m currently waiting for these to restock on BRS. You would think AF has a special way to get this expedited & fixed.

 

[swormke]

Very annoying and all parts come from Poland including the bulkheads. I work with someone from Poland, though, and I found the supplier over there and had them ship some extra bulkheads, and gave mouse to him and he’s sending me them in the mail. So I guess if you ever need any extras once you get your tank let me know. I’ll have a few for sale.

 

[GDiaz]

This restock is taking forever. I’ve waited 3mo+, but I didn’t want to just purchase any tank so I have been patiently waiting. These tanks are coming a long way and made so well it’s worth it. Thank you!

 

[bushdoc]

I saved this thread for future reference as I am eying Aquaforest tank myself. I haven't made up my mind yet and although quality seem really very high, issues with metric incompatibility are bit discouraging. I speak Polish and still have family in old country, but understanding technical drawing provided here is beyond my comprehension.
Aquaforest is slowly gaining popularity here and I hope that one day they will start building stuff compatible with imperial measurements or US will change to metric system.

 

[swormke]

Merry Christmas to me!​

Ok, maybe more like Happy New Year, but either way it looks like I have some work a head of me in the coming days. My wife completed my wish list for this tank.

• Kessil A360X Tuna Blue with WiFi mount and dongle
• RedSea Reef Wave 25
• RedSea Dose 4
• Apex AFS Feeder

 

[GDiaz]

I saved this thread for future reference as I am eying Aquaforest tank myself. I haven't made up my mind yet and although quality seem really very high, issues with metric incompatibility are bit discouraging. I speak Polish and still have family in old country, but understanding technical drawing provided here is beyond my comprehension.
Aquaforest is slowly gaining popularity here and I hope that one day they will start building stuff compatible with imperial measurements or US will change to metric system.

There are so many options out there. This one just fit what in was looking for and I have an awesome LFS who has been a great resource. A lot of the tanks I have seen plumbing is a common concern and measurements are tricky.