Looking for advice on return plumbing redesign

Biglurr54

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I need some plumbing advice. The tank is a 36x36x32 cube (175g) with a sump in the basement (9 feet of head) and about 10 feet of horizontal travel.

I want to have two pumps for redundancy. The power went out and the GFCI tripped so when the power came on, the pump didn’t start. The Tank circuit did not trip and was fine. I want to add a heater and a pump on two separate GFCI circuits so if one trips then I still have flow and heat from the other. The tank was 70.0f when I got the power back to it.

Current set up is a Fluval SP6 (1.25 output) running wide open through 1.25 spaflex to the tank. It comes up through the tank into a 1.25 tee and then is reduced to two ¾ lock lines in the tank.

My plan is to step down to 2 Fluval SP4s (1” output). I will put check valves right after the output then tee them together to the 1.25 hose that is already run. I only have 1 bulk head for the returns and would rather not invest in the Spaflex to run a new line from the sump to the tank. I would rather make what I have work. I know this is not ideal, but its what I have to work with right now.

Eventually I want to upgrade to a 360g tank at which time I will implement the two sp6’s and two 1.25 hoses so if there are substantial benefits of running two 1.25 lines for the SP4s I can justify redesigning and running the returns over the back of the tank and then they are there for the upgrade.
 

PiggyPuffin

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I have 2 Jebao DCP(T?)4000s running into 3/4" check valves then a Y, then a one outlet display return also of 3/4". They are pumping vertically only about 4ft. I run them both at 50%. Fully open they drain my sump in seconds! It's working well. I travel a lot and wanted the redundancy. Plus after hearing all of the expensive name brand pumps that failed on the BRS160, double returns are the way to go!
 

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