Looking to improve flow - Red Sea Max E 260 with Cyano outbreak

[waitwut]

I've had some trouble getting even flow in my Max E 260 and I'm currently fighting a Cyano outbreak so looking for advice.

Currently the bulk of the flow is coming from two Tunze 6095s at the back of the tank pointed at each other. I have them controlled by my GHL profilux to create random waves running in opposition (i.e. when one is high the other is low) which does a fairly good job of moving water around the whole tank but I think I have dead spots in the front which is where the cyano is really taking hold. I also have the two circulation pumps built into the rear sump, both of which are pointed towards the surface, and the return pump (I have the sump upgrade) with some random flow nozzles attached.

Unfortunately if I turn up the Tunze powerheads the flow is too much for the corals towards the back, particularly the zoas on the magnetic rock on the rear wall (it's already a bit much for them), as well as the gorgonian on the left side. I already have it high enough that it's left a bare spot in the back (I plan to add some heavier sand in that section to fill in the bare spot). The flow seems to be perfect around the tower I have on the right side, the torch and frogspawn seem very happy, but the left side definitely needs improvement.

The options that come to mind are to add another powerhead to the front on the right side, but I'm concerned this would be too omnidirectional/laminar, or to add wavemakers/gyres on the sides or the back. This is a second hand red sea so I'm scared of putting too much force on the front panel as we all know how that ends . . .

Any advice is appreciated!

 

[OfficeReefer]

@waitwut I recommend the sump modification kit made for this unit. I had one of these and they are great but the power heads from the back sump to the front aren't very useful and one can't leverage quality skimmers and reactors.

Go totally dark for a day or so and try copepods just before, keep your phosphates and nitrates low but don't bottom them out. Do regular water changes of 15-20% to keep up with alkalinity and elements loss. Watch your carbon and socks after. If you can get the sump modification kit, make sure to change the down value immediately from a ball to gate valve. Think and plan for a UV unit, even if you do not buy it. The plumbing is easier now than later.

 

[waitwut]

Thanks for the response - I do already have the sump mod and I'm about to switch the diaphragm valve for a gate valve. It does drive me crazy having to constantly adjust it. I also have an oversized UV on my return pump. I'm running fairly low nitrates (< 10ppm) as I have also built in a refugium beside the sump, my phosphates recently spiked so I'm now running GFO as well to get that under control.

I add copepods monthly so I'll try going dark for a day or two after I add them this week, thanks for the advice.