Macroalgae tank setup

Randy Holmes-Farley

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. When CO2 bubbles thru aragonite, carbohydrates & trace minerals are dissolved.

Carbohydrates from aragonite? Perhaps fresh coral skeletons have some trapped organic matter, but I would not assume there is much in commercial media.
 

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Carbohydrates from aragonite? Perhaps fresh coral skeletons have some trapped organic matter, but I would not assume there is much in commercial media.
My bad, not from aragonite. I considered that the excess co2 from the calcium reactor as combining with carbonate alkalinity then thru photosynthesis became a carbohydrate in the form of glucose.

@Randy Holmes-Farley
I consider CO2 as a major source of carbon added to our oceans and will attempt to utilize a calcium reactor in a 55G seaweed grow-out monoculture of Gracilaria Hayi.

image.jpg
 
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Randy Holmes-Farley

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My bad, not from aragonite. I considered that the excess co2 from the calcium reactor as combining with carbonate alkalinity then thru photosynthesis became a carbohydrate in the form of glucose.

@Randy Holmes-Farley
I consider CO2 as a major source of carbon added to our oceans and will attempt to utilize a calcium reactor in a 55G seaweed grow-out monoculture of Gracilaria Hayi.

image.jpg

Got it, thanks. :)
 
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kolius

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Caulerpa species are fast growers. I suspect your nutrients aren’t sufficient.

Thank you so much for your reply! Since I have some experience with freshwater tanks, I'm not a complete beginner. I use liquid water tests, which I believe should be accurate. I just ran a fresh test: my NO₂ is currently around 1 ppm, and NO₃ is about 40 ppm. That’s a huge increase for a new tank, and the parameters keep changing rapidly.

Regarding nutrients, I’m familiar with Liebig's Law of the Minimum. To avoid trace element deficiencies, I’ve been adding a trace element fertilizer (Flourish), which I also use in my freshwater tanks. I noticed it’s quite similar to fertilizer such as ChaetoGrō, which are commonly used to grow algae, so I thought it might work here as well? (I’ll also consider getting some liquid kelp, as you suggested)

Since 40 ppm nitrate is quite high, I’m guessing the issue isn’t nutrient-related. It seems my Caulerpa is getting covered by diatoms, which can be blocking light and growth. Is there a way to remedy this?
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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Thank you so much for your reply! Since I have some experience with freshwater tanks, I'm not a complete beginner. I use liquid water tests, which I believe should be accurate. I just ran a fresh test: my NO₂ is currently around 1 ppm, and NO₃ is about 40 ppm. That’s a huge increase for a new tank, and the parameters keep changing rapidly.

Regarding nutrients, I’m familiar with Liebig's Law of the Minimum. To avoid trace element deficiencies, I’ve been adding a trace element fertilizer (Flourish), which I also use in my freshwater tanks. I noticed it’s quite similar to fertilizer such as ChaetoGrō, which are commonly used to grow algae, so I thought it might work here as well? (I’ll also consider getting some liquid kelp, as you suggested)

Since 40 ppm nitrate is quite high, I’m guessing the issue isn’t nutrient-related. It seems my Caulerpa is getting covered by diatoms, which can be blocking light and growth. Is there a way to remedy this?

With 1 ppm nitrite (if accurate), it's not clear how much (if any) nitrate you have. A little nitrite reads as a lot of nitrate with most nitrate kits.
 
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kolius

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Get a good clean up crew: Everybody eats diatoms, including copepods & amphipods.

Actually, it was through trying to raise brine shrimp that I got sucked into the rabbit hole of saltwater tanks! However, I suppose I’d need an undergravel filter or something similar. With my current ultra-powerful canister filter, copepods & amphipods would likely all get sucked up.

One other option is use that canister to drive the UG

I should probably look into the ways of connecting my canister filter to UG system, as @GARRIGA suggested. I tried to figure out how to do it, but haven't found an easy solution yet. Also, my skimmer would be causing problems for copepods, I suppose...
 
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kolius

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With 1 ppm nitrite (if accurate), it's not clear how much (if any) nitrate you have
Do you mean I need to have my NO₂ around 0 for the NO₃ test to be accurate? Interesting, I didn’t know that. I should probably relax and give it some time to cycle and establish.

Screenshot 2024-11-03 at 19.29.04.png
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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Do you mean I need to have my NO₂ around 0 for the NO₃ test to be accurate? Interesting, I didn’t know that. I should probably relax and give it some time to cycle and establish.

Screenshot 2024-11-03 at 19.29.04.png

Either zero, you need to to make a correction. Some kits, such as Tropic Marin, tell you exactly how to make a correction.

Note, this table only relates to that specific kit (or one made just like it):


1730659020972.png
 

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Actually, it was through trying to raise brine shrimp that I got sucked into the rabbit hole of saltwater tanks! However, I suppose I’d need an undergravel filter or something similar. With my current ultra-powerful canister filter, copepods & amphipods would likely all get sucked up.



I should probably look into the ways of connecting my canister filter to UG system, as @GARRIGA suggested. I tried to figure out how to do it, but haven't found an easy solution yet. Also, my skimmer would be causing problems for copepods, I suppose...
Plumb the cannister filter discharge into the ug filter and reverse flow.

@kolius
Also, in my experiences, 40 ppm of nitrate is not a problem and is to be expected on new tank cycling. I suggest you retire your test kits for the first year.
I have unopened test kits that have exceeded expiration date.
 

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It looks like you started this tank less than 2 weeks ago. If that is the case, then it's probably too early to add macroalgae. I follow this guy's YouTube channel and he has some great information. As for lighting, I have a full spectrum freshwater light over my refugium and it's growing both reds and greens. I also have some sand in a corner of the refugium and live rock

23517ad0-5416-47df-be9c-ecb5c8ad8f6b-1_all_391159.jpg 23517ad0-5416-47df-be9c-ecb5c8ad8f6b-1_all_389422.jpg
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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It looks like you started this tank less than 2 weeks ago. If that is the case, then it's probably too early to add macroalgae. I follow this guy's YouTube channel and he has some great information. As for lighting, I have a full spectrum freshwater light over my refugium and it's growing both reds and greens. I also have some sand in a corner of the refugium and live rocks.



23517ad0-5416-47df-be9c-ecb5c8ad8f6b-1_all_391159.jpg 23517ad0-5416-47df-be9c-ecb5c8ad8f6b-1_all_389422.jpg


I don’t see any reason one cannot have macroalgae from day 1 in a reef tank. :)
 
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kolius

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I don’t see any reason one cannot have macroalgae from day 1 in a reef tank
The issue I’m having with my macroalgae is that it’s getting covered by diatoms, which might be blocking light and hindering its growth. I’ve read this often happens in new tanks. I’m trying to figure out if there’s a way to remedy this.

Sorry, meant to post this video
Yes, my tank is 2w old, and I’ve already watched that video—it’s absolutely terrifying! But I already got the macroalgae, so there’s no turning back now. Thanks for the links! Great tank!
 
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Randy Holmes-Farley

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The issue I’m having with my macroalgae is that it’s getting covered by diatoms, which might be blocking light and hindering its growth. I’ve read this often happens in new tanks. I’m trying to figure out if there’s a way to remedy this.


Yes, my tank is 2w old, and I’ve already watched that video—it’s absolutely terrifying! But I already got the macroalgae, so there’s no turning back now. Thanks for the links! Great tank!

Diatoms go away when silicate runs out. Are you using ro/di? Tap water can be a big source.
 
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kolius

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Diatoms go away when silicate runs out. Are you using ro/di? Tap water can be a big source.
Yes, I have RO, but I used quartz sand, which supplies silicates—probably not the best decision. I’m unsure if I should switch it out for live sand now to avoid a diatom apocalypse before it’s too late.
 

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Yes, I have RO, but I used quartz sand, which supplies silicates—probably not the best decision. I’m unsure if I should switch it out for live sand now to avoid a diatom apocalypse before it’s too late.
Diatoms are not an apocalypse. Because I focus on invertebrates, sponges and clean up crew, I don’t subscribe to clean is better. My focus is a mixed garden Caribbean lagoon with ornamental seaweeds.

This 10G display is conceptually evolving.

image.jpg
 
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kolius

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Diatoms are not an apocalypse. Because I focus on invertebrates, sponges and clean up crew, I don’t subscribe to clean is better.
I see! Good to know, then I should probably add more cuc members and see how it goes
 

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@
I see! Good to know, then I should probably add more cuc members and see how it goes
Back in the day, I operated a 29G high display using white sugar sand which was high in silicates. In those days, I didn’t know what silicates were. I added janitors when I saw the brown accent on the sand. The tank was fishless but had peppermint shrimp that spawned, yet I couldn’t raise the larvae.

My present displays of 75G & 120G both operate with silicates at saturation concentration. Because I focus on the microbial loop, I don’t use protein skimmers and I do use cryptic sponges to recycle DOC & POC into carbon rich detritus that feeds the microbial loop.
 

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