In retrospect, that in-line pressure gauge will only give you your house pressure in you block the outlet. You want to know the pressure with no water running.
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In retrospect, that in-line pressure gauge will only give you your house pressure in you block the outlet. You want to know the pressure with no water running.
I’m coming from using tap water to run my tanks to now today for the first time making RODI water. This sucks. It takes FOREVER. I could’ve made 50 buckets in the time it’s taking my unit to make water. It’s a 50GPD unit that was given to me. I’m counting my blessings but dag!!! Okay I’m done my rant lol
The square booster pump?Have you tested your pressure? I use AquaticLife and my house was made in the 80s, so it has smaller pipes... It originally made like 50gpd. I got a pump and it produces WAY more now. I'm running a 100GPD plus pump and am making a full brute can in like 4-5 hours.
Yup, I was running around 30 PSI before, my line literally dripped it was so slow. Once I got the booster, it made an ENORMOUS difference. Normally its around 86PSI Now.The square booster pump?
The square booster pump?
swap out the membrane you might find shelling out 20 bucks for a 100gph membrane worth it
100 gph membrane on Amazon
My water comes out over 600ppm out of the tap so no brands really last long. But yes Dow , Filmtec ( or sumthin like that) do seem to last a lil longer but I only get about a year more or less regardless of brands.. Also seems backflushing matters more for higher quality membranes …If your a slacker with/and/or liquid concrete, I’d just get a 6 pack of cheap membranesHow do those generic $20 membranes compare to a legit Dow Fimtec membrane that sells for roughly twice as much?
Do these $20 membranes really perform as well as the Dow Filmtec membranes? I know they seem to cite the same rejection rates and such, but I still have my doubts. Anybody know of any tests done comparing DOW membranes to generic ones?