Mattgsa 315 gallon build

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mattgsa

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Right now I'm working plumbing in the UV staralizer. It's going a little slow, I'm not good at plumbing, nor do I like doing it so finding the motivation and the time in conjunction with all the problems at work has been difficult to say the least. I'll post pictures once it is done.
 

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I even did a little work on plumbing, but it didn't help with noise at all.
IMG_0433.jpg


I think most of the noise is coming from the filter socks.
IMG_0415.jpg

I would put the gate valve in the main drain much lower down the pipe to be only just above sump height to help reduce noise and silencer covers for the filter socks might help reduce their noise too.
 
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I would put the gate valve in the main drain much lower down the pipe to be only just above sump height to help reduce noise and silencer covers for the filter socks might help reduce their noise too.
Yea I have one there too
 
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All right so I tested the water again tonight, and I don’t think there was any change in the level of ammonia. Which at first was very frustrating, because it feels like an eternity since the tank was started. But after checking my form I realized it’s only been two weeks, much to my chagrin. Like I said before I have a real problem with the need for instant gratification.
 

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All right so I tested the water again tonight, and I don’t think there was any change in the level of ammonia. Which at first was very frustrating, because it feels like an eternity since the tank was started. But after checking my form I realized it’s only been two weeks, much to my chagrin. Like I said before I have a real problem with the need for instant gratification.

What level is your Ph? If it is more acidic than normal for saltwater Ph levels, ammonia can be in a form that is not readable by aquarium test kits and is also not available to the bacteria. If your Ph is low, raise it and then test ammonia levels again after another 12 hours or so and see what reading you get then.
 
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What level is your Ph? If it is more acidic than normal for saltwater Ph levels, ammonia can be in a form that is not readable by aquarium test kits and is also not available to the bacteria. If your Ph is low, raise it and then test ammonia levels again after another 12 hours or so and see what reading you get then.
The pH stays between 7.5 and 7.9, and the ammonia is at two according to the Red Sea test kit. I have dumped nearly 350 mL of Microbactor 7. I think it just needs more time. Especially since I don’t have sand.
 

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The pH stays between 7.5 and 7.9, and the ammonia is at two according to the Red Sea test kit. I have dumped nearly 350 mL of Microbactor 7. I think it just needs more time. Especially since I don’t have sand.

If your pH was around 8.2 you will find that the ammonia reading would be higher. But if you are reading 2ppm ammonia anyway, that will be fine and the cycle will work, all in good time.

Are you running your normal reef temperature? As low temperatures (as if you weren't running your heaters) will slow bacterial activity.
 
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If your pH was around 8.2 you will find that the ammonia reading would be higher. But if you are reading 2ppm ammonia anyway, that will be fine and the cycle will work, all in good time.

Are you running your normal reef temperature? As low temperatures (as if you weren't running your heaters) will slow bacterial activity.
Yes I try to keep it between 78° and 79°
 
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I finally got the UV staralizer mostly plumbed in this weekend. I'm sorry I thought I had a picture of it but I can't seem to find it now. The only thing I have left to do is hook up it's pump, and check for leaks before installing the bulb.
 
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I don't know if I mentioned this before. But plumbing is one of my least favorite parts of the aquarium. I can never get it the way I want it, and despite my best efforts it always drips. Yesterday I turned on the UV sterilizer for the first time, and the bottom union that I could not tighten any more was leaking bad. I had water every where. After cleaning that up, I took it out side and use a clamp to get it even tighter. Then used the water house to test the seal, and it still leaked. No matter what I did. To say I was frustrated by the end of the night would be an under statement. Through out the years i have been forced to buy some of the cheapest stuff due to budget, and I didn't have nearly the problem with leaking that I do form some of the top of the line equipment. I was ready to put the thing back in the box and send it back. :mad: Before you ask, yes I check and double check the O'ring. I'm seriously thinking about lathering the whole thing in PVC glue, and then screwing it together.(I'm sure that is a bad idea) I have included a picture that I took at the end of the night with my head hung in disgrace.
IMG_0453.jpg
 

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I agree that those UV sterilizer unions are tough to get tight enough. A normal plumbers wrench didn’t cut it for me. I had to use a wrench for oil changes. This was a game changer for me for tightening large diameter unions and bulkheads.

EBF9D3E9-8429-46A8-80B8-1DCF7D42D844.jpeg
 
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I agree that those UV sterilizer unions are tough to get tight enough. A normal plumbers wrench didn’t cut it for me. I had to use a wrench for oil changes. This was a game changer for me for tightening large diameter unions and bulkheads.

EBF9D3E9-8429-46A8-80B8-1DCF7D42D844.jpeg
I've never seen one of those, I was using a small clamp. It seemed to work, I was able to tighten it to the point the threads would slip. But even close to that point it would still drip. I'll have to go to lowes and see if I can find one of those. Thanks.
 
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I agree that those UV sterilizer unions are tough to get tight enough. A normal plumbers wrench didn’t cut it for me. I had to use a wrench for oil changes. This was a game changer for me for tightening large diameter unions and bulkheads.

EBF9D3E9-8429-46A8-80B8-1DCF7D42D844.jpeg
I just ordered one off of amazon.
 

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I agree that those UV sterilizer unions are tough to get tight enough. A normal plumbers wrench didn’t cut it for me. I had to use a wrench for oil changes. This was a game changer for me for tightening large diameter unions and bulkheads.

EBF9D3E9-8429-46A8-80B8-1DCF7D42D844.jpeg

I've never seen one of those, I was using a small clamp. It seemed to work, I was able to tigten it to the pint the threads would slip. But even close to that point it would still drip. I'll have to go to lowes and see if i can find one of those. Thanks.

There is also a strap style oil filter wrench that you can pick up at auto stores for some extra "gorilla tightening". But be aware that over tightening can strip screw threads (especially plastic ones).
 
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Well the drama continues, I spent most of last night working on it. I got the union on the UV to stop leaking. Now the flow meter is leaking. So I lathered it up with silicone and let it site over night. And it is still dripping. Then another leak showed up this morning. Did I mention I hate plumbing.
I have fixed multiple water mains for different houses and never had a problem with a drip afterwards. But with the aquarium, I can't make a solid joint to save my life. I think I'm starting to understand why plumbers charge such ridiculous rates. I had one, who wanted to charge me 800 dollars to replace one union. Which is why I never call them. LOL Although I'm giving it some serious thought right now.
With the flow meter I even put silicone on the inside here is a picture.
IMG_0457.jpg


Here's basically what I have now. The missing piece is where the leaky flow meter goes. It was drying at the time.
 
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Another piece of advice for a slow leak, even as fast as 1 drip few couple seconds, eventually it will seal off with salt creep. You don’t need to stop every leak. Just put a pan or a cup under it and be patient. It will eventually stop.

sadly I can’t view vids on iPhone :(.
 
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Well can you say foggy tank. I was really hoping to have it cleared up by Thanksgiving, but due to plumbing issues along with work schedule and family, that didn’t happen.
991A484F-C9D3-4E8F-9DA7-F6D58885C277.jpeg
 

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