Metal Halides are the bomb

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Backreefing

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I recently bought a used miracles 150 peninsula 72x24x20. It came with a 72” 3x250hqi with t5 bulbs. I have seriously been going back and forth on if I want to use it and fix it up a little. If I do use It I need to take it apart and put new fans in, these two sound like it’s going to take off.
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Seriously though I am really thinking about getting this fixture going and possibly how I can add a little led pop to it.
IMO if you use the fixture depends greatly of the reflectors. Are they large or small? Generally larger the better. But quality maters maybe more. Everything else is workable , like ballasts ect.
imo halides don’t look as beautiful as LEDs but they are the best for growing and general health of the corals .
 

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Bombs Away!
Finally switched from 8T5's to my 2 lumen bright de minis running phoenix 14k 250 watts on m80 ballasts.
Its been about 2 weeks and the tank temp is the same, lol.
The reflectors are actually cooler to the touch than my old ati unit.
Really love the look and already seeing growth.
Dont think I will ever change.
I had these 15 months ago and went with T5's which produced good results.
The shimmer and overall light quality is still hard to beat.
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Would these be doable on a 3 ft x 2 ft 75 gallon or would the pendants be too close together? Debating switching to MH or T5 from my LEDs.

Would I still want 2x250w or 2x150w? Currently run one atlantik v4 orphek and single OR3 light bar 36 inch.

I think one of the 250 halides is more watts than the atlantik v4 which is why I'm wondering if 2x150s would be an easier transition.
 

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Would these be doable on a 3 ft x 2 ft 75 gallon or would the pendants be too close together? Debating switching to MH or T5 from my LEDs.

Would I still want 2x250w or 2x150w? Currently run one atlantik v4 orphek and single OR3 light bar 36 inch.

I think one of the 250 halides is more watts than the atlantik v4 which is why I'm wondering if 2x150s would be an easier transition.
Honestly if I had the Orphek I would not change.
I have seen a few tanks running them and they rock for led's
My frag tank is 3x2 and I have considered a 250 watt in the mini as I think the coverage would work.
1 250/mini with your orphek bar would work, imo.
 

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IMO if you use the fixture depends greatly of the reflectors. Are they large or small? Generally larger the better. But quality maters maybe more. Everything else is workable , like ballasts ect.
imo halides don’t look as beautiful as LEDs but they are the best for growing and general health of the corals .

The fixture is a maristar Fixture
 

RJKain-777

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Yearly is a safe schedule. I’d change them personally when par levels drop below your ideal range. Could be longer or shorter
Looking at all solutions for lighting my new tank. Currently have 6 hydra 26hd but, worried about coverage , it’s 84x30z30
 

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Looking at all solutions for lighting my new tank. Currently have 6 hydra 26hd but, worried about coverage , it’s 84x30z30
Yeah I’d want at least double that. Using small led units to light a tank that size would be inefficient for my pocketbook. A few large 20”+ 400 watt MH pendants would do well. If not those. Then probably 3 ATI Stratons would be my next choice. A budget friendly choice would be a pair of reef breeders photon v2 50’s along with a pair of photon v2 32’s for full coverage. Tank like that you don’t want a handful of little pucks. The par hot spots will maybe not be visually apparent but a meter will pick them up and it will be noticeable. You need the type lights designed to blanket a large area. I shudder to think of replacing 16 t5 tubes. That would be annoying....but a pair of 8 bulb ati sunpower would work as well
 

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Yeah I’d want at least double that. Using small led units to light a tank that size would be inefficient for my pocketbook. A few large 20”+ 400 watt MH pendants would do well. If not those. Then probably 3 ATI Stratons would be my next choice. A budget friendly choice would be a pair of reef breeders photon v2 50’s along with a pair of photon v2 32’s for full coverage. Tank like that you don’t want a handful of little pucks. The par hot spots will maybe not be visually apparent but a meter will pick them up and it will be noticeable. You need the type lights designed to blanket a large area. I shudder to think of replacing 16 t5 tubes. That would be annoying....but a pair of 8 bulb ati sunpower would work as well
Would 3 , 400 watt halides suffice? I live in Canada, tanks in the basement so it’s pretty cool down there all year round.
My other option was 3 orphek Atlantiks.
 

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Would 3 , 400 watt halides suffice? I live in Canada, tanks in the basement so it’s pretty cool down there all year round.
My other option was 3 orphek Atlantiks.

In large enough reflectors yes. 20” reflectors leave 20” total negative footprint length. Divided between 4 spots (outsides and between the reflectors) means a 5” spacing between pendants. Hang them 10”’or so over the water and that makes for a nice even blanket with tons of overlap
 
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400 watts 3 fixtures is a lot of light . I think 250 watts in each fixture should do . But idk . Plus I’m assuming that there will be supplemental lights also .
but if RJ were to have selectable ballasts he could just change the bulbs and select The wattage. Led guy say there’s no adjustments but there is . The color through bulb section and intensity through bulb selection or lowering and raising of the fixtures.
 

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Was considering doing 4x 250 watts instead, then run a longer photo period. Will be adding orphek OR bars as wel
400 watts 3 fixtures is a lot of light . I think 250 watts in each fixture should do . But idk . Plus I’m assuming that there will be supplemental lights also .
but if RJ were to have selectable ballasts he could just change the bulbs and select The wattage. Led guy say there’s no adjustments but there is . The color through bulb section and intensity through bulb selection or lowering and raising of the fixtures.
 
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I would definitely run selectable ballasts. Because one turn of the knob and a new bulb gives you a lot of adjustability. But you’re seeing the aquarium, so you know best .
BTW are they double end or screw in bulbs?
 

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I would definitely run selectable ballasts. Because one turn of the knob and a new bulb gives you a lot of adjustability. But you’re seeing the aquarium, so you know best .
BTW are they double end or screw in bulbs?
No idea, haven’t purchased yet since my tanks not set up. Probably mid November
 
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Ok I would recommend double end bulbs. The light is more even through out the spread . And the 250 w , 400 w bulbs have the same mounts. The 150, 175 have different mounts.
 

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Here is a video of the Hamilton Cebu Sun 6 foot triple 400 watt 10000k MHs and 4 80 watt 460 actinic T5s. I love the light. More importantly so do the corals. Dave at Hamilton was very helpful.

I just mounted my Cebu Sun with 10000k 250s over my 220 and the more natural look of my tank already makes me glad I made the switch. Too early for as glowing review as yours but I know I'll see more growth based on past experience. My favorite tank of all time was 40 gallon with one, 400w Iwasaki. My animals couldn't get enough of it.
 
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I just mounted my Cebu Sun with 10000k 250s over my 220 and the more natural look of my tank already makes me glad I made the switch. Too early for as glowing review as yours but I know I'll see more growth based on past experience. My favorite tank of all time was 40 gallon with one, 400w Iwasaki. My animals couldn't get enough of it.
That’s a hell of light you got . Nice choice for your main guns .
 

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I had a Lumatek switchable electronic ballast that had 4 settings, 250, 250 HQI, 400 and 400 HQI. I don't seem to be able to find it available anymore. Which switchable ballast do you recommend?
 

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For selectable ones probably the Icecap ballast. Not sure if there are any other ones made.
 

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