That’s what ushios site says but is there going to be a big difference between those two ballasts or my electronic ballast? If so would the super lumens help or not?
Metal Halides are the bomb
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That’s what ushios site says but is there going to be a big difference between those two ballasts or my electronic ballast? If so would the super lumens help or not?
A. grandis
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Yeah, the manufacturers' ballast recommendation is to run the bulb at it's best performance and safety. Using any other ballast, including the electronic ones we normally use for aquariums, will not drive the bulbs as they should, by design, and the life of the bulb will somehow be altered.
The pulse start bulbs require a 4kV ignition. Normally when we try to us a pulse start bulb with a probe start ballast it will work first, but after a while it won't start. Best thing is to choose the bulb you like the most and get the specific ballast for that bulb. Normally the electronic ballasts we get for our tanks are ok to use, but in most cases not the optimal according to the manufacturers.
The pulse start bulbs require a 4kV ignition. Normally when we try to us a pulse start bulb with a probe start ballast it will work first, but after a while it won't start. Best thing is to choose the bulb you like the most and get the specific ballast for that bulb. Normally the electronic ballasts we get for our tanks are ok to use, but in most cases not the optimal according to the manufacturers.
I just ordered a new Hamilton Cebu 400 watt x 3 T5 hybrid unit. In 2018 I switched to LEDs after 18 years of MH/VHOs. SPS and LPS growth and coral health is terrible verses my old set up. Clams and anemones seem to do well for the most part under both for me. My SPSs only grow when I have fresh T5s in my LED/T5 system. You can make all the arguments about PAR you want, but with similar PAR I think it all comes down to blend and no shadowing. Measuring PAR mostly looks at light striking the coral perpendicular to its horizontal exposed surface. I have a PAR meter. I gave LEDs 2 years. For me, they are sleek, less bulky, light, cooler, less power consumption, less bulb replacements, (all nice benefits) but expensive to purchase with mixed results. MHs just rock in regards to simplicity, coral health, and growth. Corals literally grow out of the water and from side to side, front to back, with MH.
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A. grandis
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There is only ONE "type" of Ushio: the one made in Germany. I'm not sure what you are referring to, but Ushio bulbs are sold in US, but are made in Germany. I never had nor saw any Ushio bulb made in US. To be best of my knowledge there is no German bulb "specially made to be used in US". The code for your lamp is the 5002094, Aqualite UHI-S400AQ/14/CWA. It's a probe start lamp. Recommended ballast is the M59. If you call Ushio they will tell you they can't recommend any other than the M59 because the lamp was designed to be used with that particular ballast, for the safety and best performance. But...
How many people use those selectable ballasts without any major problems? How many had anything dangerous going on with those electronic ballasts?
They had been sold for a long time. Many would say it's ok to use them, but you just won't get the best out of your bulbs.
Here is the references for you:
Ushio America:
Ushio America, Inc. | Applying Light to Life
Since establishment in 1967, Ushio America, Inc. and its group companies have evolved to become a photonics solutions provider. We solve problems with light.
Ushio America contact:
Contact Us | Ushio America, Inc.
For Ushio Inquiries, including Care222® products, please fill out our Online Inquiry Form.
Here is the link for the ballast:
I must be remembering wrong. I was hesitant to get the selectable ballast and have been wondering how much less I am getting from it. I appreciate all the info in this thread and am happy this thread is getting attention.
Hi there! I'm thinking about running the Ushio 14k in my 300... 4 x 400 watt. Which is what you are running if I read correctly. I can't find many pictures of tanks with this bulb. Would you mind sharing some pictures of your tank with me?
Thank you,
Nathan
A. grandis
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Electronic ballasts uses less wattage from the wall to start with, and the lamp will run a bit cooler. They will work with virtually most of the bulbs available, I would say, but if you want to be more specific about the results in terms of the best spectrum, intensity and mainly the life out that bulb, the recommended ballast is the way to go.
I think I can say that we don't have to worry too much about "how much less we get out of most electronic ballasts", because in most cases that is "relatively insignificant" for the sake of the hobby. That's not what the manufactures say though, because they don't want to be responsible for anything that could happen. Most people like the comfort of changing the bulbs/wattage and that is what motivates most of us to get selectable ballasts. I am in that team and use them, but technically speaking the way bulbs are designed and the ballasts' compatibility is also important.
Bpb
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In my limited experience, the discernible differences between electronic ballasts and Spec ballasts have been only positive. Faster burn in to endpoint color, silent start, cool to the touch, and (I realize the eye isn’t the best tool) I couldn’t visually tell a difference in color. Par was about the same as well from my m59’s and electronic ballasts, though I can’t make the radiums comparison as I haven’t run those in many years. M59 and m80 ballasts I’ve used ran too hot to even touch
Yea sure I can do that. Let me see if I can remember when I get home.
Yea I see so many nice tanks using the electronic ballasts. I went to ushio because the radiums were just too blue on that ballast and I love the natural look and long til coloration that comes with the whiter 400w bulbs. Maybe I will just switch to super lumens mode and just get new ballasts when I setup a new tank. These ballasts are basically new and I would hate to see them sit for minimal gain.
I would love to see top downs of everyone’s tanks that are using halides in this thread. I think it might make for some good viewing and maybe in rice some new users.
I would love to see top downs of everyone’s tanks that are using halides in this thread. I think it might make for some good viewing and maybe in rice some new users.
A. grandis
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No need super lumens.
Here is a shot I just took before the lights go out. Sorry I forgot I had to take one and started blowing the rocks off. It’s really a bit brighter in person. This is also with 3 or2 blue plus and a uv or2 bar. And yes they are two 400w 14k ushio in the round mini reflectors.
Chibils
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The best I've seen is a 10,000k bulb. I'm not sure if the spectrum blend is even right on that, tbh, since it's made for growing a certain type of plant.
Looks like heavy blue, heavy green, moderate red. Not far off from aquarium 10,000k bulbs, but a little. 315w too, which from my understanding would be roughly equivalent to 350-400w of traditional quartz metal halide.
mitch91175
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It’s been a while since I’ve had coralline algae grow on my glass like this
Actually do not ever remember having this much growing on the glass. Think I’m gonna switch back to LED, not.
Actually do not ever remember having this much growing on the glass. Think I’m gonna switch back to LED, not.
Just finished setting up my new lights. SPS polyps are already open more. Anemones happy. I’ll post a video after the lights burn in better. I’m looking forward to SPS corals with much better shape, polyp extension, and growth along with fat healthy polyps and LPS.
A. grandis
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Cebu is an amazing classic fixture! I think we need some pictures?
Congratulations!
Bombs Away!
Finally switched from 8T5's to my 2 lumen bright de minis running phoenix 14k 250 watts on m80 ballasts.
Its been about 2 weeks and the tank temp is the same, lol.
The reflectors are actually cooler to the touch than my old ati unit.
Really love the look and already seeing growth.
Dont think I will ever change.
I had these 15 months ago and went with T5's which produced good results.
The shimmer and overall light quality is still hard to beat.
Finally switched from 8T5's to my 2 lumen bright de minis running phoenix 14k 250 watts on m80 ballasts.
Its been about 2 weeks and the tank temp is the same, lol.
The reflectors are actually cooler to the touch than my old ati unit.
Really love the look and already seeing growth.
Dont think I will ever change.
I had these 15 months ago and went with T5's which produced good results.
The shimmer and overall light quality is still hard to beat.
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A. grandis
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Thanks for sharing! Lovely!Bombs Away!
Finally switched from 8T5's to my 2 lumen bright de minis running phoenix 14k 250 watts on m80 ballasts.
Its been about 2 weeks and the tank temp is the same, lol.
The reflectors are actually cooler to the touch than my old ati unit.
Really love the look and already seeing growth.
Dont think I will ever change.
I had these 15 months ago and went with T5's which produced good results.
The shimmer and overall light quality is still hard to beat.
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