My Euphillya are not extending anymore! Please help!

Sly54

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
Apr 13, 2025
Messages
37
Reaction score
20
Location
North of Italy
What state or country do you live in
Other International
Rating - 0%
0   0   0


Hi guys,
I need your help. For about 4 days now, my Euphyllia in the tank haven't been fully extending and tend to remain retracted.
The water test results are as follows:


KH: 9
Ca: 440
Mg: 1220 (a bit low, for now I’ve been blaming this)


Nitrites: 0.02 (or negligible) ppm
Nitrates: 15 ppm
Phosphates: 0.03 ppm
Silicates: 0 ppm


Salinity: 1.026
Temperature: 25°C


Let me clarify that nitrates have always been at 15 and have never caused any problems, so I’ve ruled them out as the issue.
I haven’t changed the power or direction of the circulation pumps, nor the lighting in any way.
I feed zooplankton once a week.
I don't see parasites around them.
The soft corals and other tank inhabitants are not having any issues.
Do you think it could really be the magnesium?


Thanks so much to anyone who takes the time to help me.
Stefano.

euph 1.jpg euph 2.jpg
 
Hi, can you take some pics in white light please? How old is the tank? How long have you had euphyllia? What do you have for lighting and flow? Thank you
 
Hi, can you take some pics in white light please? How old is the tank? How long have you had euphyllia? What do you have for lighting and flow? Thank you

Hello!
thank you for your help, I attached 3 photos in white lights, I hope that you can see better.
The tank is 9 months old and I never had problems, the black torch euphillyas have 8 months and I noticed grow until 4 days ago.
The other one has 3 months and same above.

I have 2 led bars from CEAB model Manta, I bought the tank already with these lights and corals always looked healthy even if the lights are cheap.
By the way, I'm going to trash them and install a new Radion G6 in the next week.

The flow is from 2 jebao pumps SLW 10.000 liters/h and I use them at 70% with sine mode, alternated every 6 hours the pumps are in the tank since 3 months.

Thank you so much for your help, much appreciated.

Stefano.


P.S.
I've noticed that even the soft corals are not fully opening anymore.

eu 2.jpg eu1.jpg eu3.jpg
 
I would try running some activated carbon to remove some of the doc's that accumulate over time.

Thank you for your answer, tbh I have activated carbon in the sump that needs a change (it is in there since january :dizzy-face:), I will go and buy new one tomorrow!
 
Welcome to reef to reef!
You could also check your water for a slight yellow color by looking thru the tank at a white piece of paper. If yellow the carbon will help remove the yellowing organics.
 
Welcome to reef to reef!
You could also check your water for a slight yellow color by looking thru the tank at a white piece of paper. If yellow the carbon will help.

Thank you so much! I'm gonna try!

EDIT: seems that new carbon is needed!
 
Phosphates are really low.

Yes, but never had a problem with that and corals always looked happy.
I have these water parameters since at least 3 months and never had a problem. :confounded-face:
 
+1 mg; consider an ICP to rule out metals
 
+1 mg; consider an ICP to rule out metals

Tomorrow i'm gonna buy a new mg test and raise it at normal level.
I'm so scared about metals in my tank, if i don't resolve raising mg and changing carbon, I will do an ICP.
 
Tomorrow i'm gonna buy a new mg test and raise it at normal level.
I'm so scared about metals in my tank, if i don't resolve raising mg and changing carbon, I will do an ICP.
I keep my mg in the 1400s. Anecdotal but I believe they like mg elevated.
 
I keep my mg in the 1400s. Anecdotal but I believe they like mg elevated.

Yes, I’ve always kept magnesium at 1400 too.
But in the past few months, I noticed it never dropped, so I stopped testing it, and now of course I find myself with a very low level.
My mistake!
 
What are you using for lights
 
Nevermind, I see now. Sorry about that
 
Magnesium test kits are notoriously inaccurate on the hobby level so take it with a grain of salt.

Regarding nutrients. LPs will often look great for months and potentially be losing tissue if nutrition is lacking and/or lighting s insufficient. You seem concerned with 15ppm nitrate? I would consider this a minimum level for lps. They can go much higher without issue. .03ppm phosphate is potentially 0 because of test kit inaccuracy.

I don’t see much flesh on the outside skeleton of the octospawn. Ideally would like a nice healthy wide flesh band.

It’s also worth checking you salinity. Salinity being off will cause your lps to look weird. What are you using to calibrate and test?
 
Magnesium test kits are notoriously inaccurate on the hobby level so take it with a grain of salt.

Regarding nutrients. LPs will often look great for months and potentially be losing tissue if nutrition is lacking and/or lighting s insufficient. You seem concerned with 15ppm nitrate? I would consider this a minimum level for lps. They can go much higher without issue. .03ppm phosphate is potentially 0 because of test kit inaccuracy.

I don’t see much flesh on the outside skeleton of the octospawn. Ideally would like a nice healthy wide flesh band.

It’s also worth checking you salinity. Salinity being off will cause your lps to look weird. What are you using to calibrate and test?

Thank you for the reply and for the precious infos about LPS!

To check the salinity I use a rifractometer zeroed with RODI water, at the moment it is 1026.
I got it double checked by the owner of my LFS and my reading it's correct.

In these days I also noted an increase in skimmer work and to be honest, I can't really explain it.
By the way, just some minutes ago i removed the phosphates resin and the old carbon from the sump, hoping to rise the level of phosphate.

I have an ATS made by me that is almost new, it just has 3 weeks and it is growing algae on it, maybe it started consuming NO3 and PO4 a bit too much?

Thank you for your help and informations!
 
ATS will pull lots of nitrate and phosphate as long as both are readily available. It will continue to do so until one or the other hits 0ppm. I would definitely test both and see where you are at.

Calibrating refractometer with rodi will cause you saltwater reading to be off by a little.
 
ATS will pull lots of nitrate and phosphate as long as both are readily available. It will continue to do so until one or the other hits 0ppm. I would definitely test both and see where you are at.

Calibrating refractometer with rodi will cause you saltwater reading to be off by a little.

Tested both:
Nitrates around 15 ppm, phosphates still 0.03 or lower.
I will check tomorrow, giving a day to the tank without PO4 resin to see if something is changed.

What do you suggest to use to zero the refractometer?

Thanks.
 

TOP 10 Trending Threads

WHICH KIND OF INVERT HAS CAUSED THE MOST MISCHIEF IN YOUR TANK?

  • Sea urchins

    Votes: 15 23.8%
  • Hermit crabs

    Votes: 9 14.3%
  • Other crabs

    Votes: 4 6.3%
  • Shrimp

    Votes: 5 7.9%
  • Snails or conchs

    Votes: 3 4.8%
  • Sea stars

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Anemones

    Votes: 12 19.0%
  • None! My inverts are model citizens. :-)

    Votes: 11 17.5%
  • Something else (tell us in the comments)

    Votes: 4 6.3%
Back
Top
Home
Post thread…
Market
What's new