TLDR: this is my plan for my first reef tank. Comments welcome.
All,
Done a lot of thinking on my future tank, and now the stars are aligned so I can go from thinking to action. Apologies that this is long and not so well edited.
This is mainly just thoughts; it will become a tank build once a tank arrives.
The concept
There are many reasons people keep tropical marine life in transparent boxes. Some want to keep some mixture of fish. Some want to keep a mixture of fish and photosynthetic corals for ornamental aesthetics.
I decided for this tank to mimic a very small patch reef and some of the nearby algae/seagrass beds, inspired by such things I’ve come across snorkeling (e.g. a 2ft-ish rock popping out of the rock rubble and sand in 3ft-ish water, 50 yards into the water from a beach, and the fish hanging around and corals growing on it). “Patch reefs” are basically rock (s) popping out of a sand bed in the lagoon zone, ranging from very shallow to fairly deep water. This would be a few rocks, in particular a bommie which down the line could have some interesting corals.
My general vision is the typical live rock pile in about 1/3-1/2 of the tank, a bommie around the half-2/3 mark, and the rest open sand.
Photos which show some things I’m going for:
https://goo.gl/images/FUHWAK
Note the bommie coming out of the sand, and the large branching SPSs on both sides of the bommie, and on the sandbed.
https://goo.gl/images/p8mTSF
Note the bommie on the left (this looks like it’s on the reef flat) with the SPS on top and the NPS on the bottom.
https://goo.gl/images/eqVfPQ
Note the plate corals on the top (moderate flow?) and the NPS stuff below
https://goo.gl/images/NsKLLX
Ditto
Written inspiration (and reasonably detailed surveys) includes the Florida and Pacific lagoon zone sections of John Tullock’s book on Reef Aquaria, as well as Dshaw’s thread on a lagoon in Singapore on nano-reef.com.
One things that I want is to have a balance of the life on the reef. I don’t like loads of live rock and random photosynthetic corals stacked and squeezed to the max; in fact my intention is to, eventually, only have a small selection of photosynthetic corals (one group of zoanthids, a few Pacific soft corals, a few Floridian photosynthetic gorgonians in the first six months, and later maybe some LPS and the hardy kinds of SPS from the lagoon zone – some Montiporae, Siderastrea, brain corals, etc.).
Instead of loading up on photosynthetic corals, I’d like to keep save some space (and keep some shaded areas!) for various nonphotosynthetic sessile bethnic organisms that will hitchhike on maricultured live rock– Tubastrea corals, tunicates (though I get the impression many of these have seasonal life cycles), sponges, barnacles. (I know these are considered somewhat difficult to keep because they need to be fed, making things harder for both maintenance and water quality, especially since I’m a beginner and I’d have to start feeding them right off. I plan to target feed these to the degree possible; knowing that not everything will like target feeding)
I’d also like to keep some macroalgae (not the kind that will proliferate too quicky), besides what’s in the fuge/algae reactor. Eventually, perhaps seagrass (after several years, if there’s space)
I am a beginner, so I want the tank to grow slowly. H(itchkikers)OWLR at first, maybe add the first fish and the macroalgae after a few weeks-months, a few more fish and zoas/soft corals after three months, maybe start adding LPS at the six month mark.
Why “Florido-pacific”? Because the live rock and hitchikers (And of course many CUC) will come from FL. However, many of the inhabitants I’d like to add later will originate from the pacific, if they’re not circumtropical.
Once necessary paramater: ALL, or as many as possible, cords must be hidden away in the tank stand.
The Tank
This is the primary constraint. I was thinking of a 72X16x16 tank at first (and much of this was written when I was vacillating between two tank sizes), but after discussion with everyone in the family we decided 48x16x16 was better for the first tank. I want this to be set up peninsula style.
My fallback (the 48” tank will be a custom tank and for such custom things, even if the company’s perfect, there’s always a chance that something falls through) would be an IM Fusion 40 -$700ish MAP with stand- or maybe a Lagoon 50 - $1100ish MAP with stand. (though I’m not sure the alternate format and the extra 10 gallons is with the $400).
Digression: The IM setups would have to to have completely different rockscapes compared to the 48x16x16 I am spending the rest of this pieces describing; I would have a more conventional scape with a pile of live rock on roughly the back left, the bommie on the mid-back right, and the open sandbed for the rest of the tank (i.e. about ½ the tank). Flow would proably start from a pump on the rear left, directed toward the bommie, to try to make a circular flow from upper left-> upper right -> bottom right-> bottom left.
Inhabitants
Desired inhabitants, grouped in rough descending biological order (as I remember from bio for science majors class many many years ago, the last bio class I took. I believe the organization of kingdom animalia has been reordered, but that’s not important).
(note this represents the maximum list of all potential inhabitants I’m thinking of, NOT what I’ll necessarily all put in, much less what I’ll put in all at once!)
Coraline Algae: I would try to keep one set of each of the two forms of coralline algae from liveplants.com
Macro Algae: I would order the “halimeda sampler” (which is more than halimeda J) from liveplants.com this includes
Halimeda
Shaving Brush – Penicillus dumetosus,
Mermaid’s Fan- Udoeata Spinosa
Pineocone - Rhipocephalus
I might get some red algae/Gracilara (either in the display or maybe in the sump/reactor), as well as chaeto (definitely at least in the sump/reactor). I would use these especially for nutrient absorption and export (once they grow too big they’ll be removed; stuff from the sump/reactor can be fed to any herbivores in the tank. Or, you know we Asians like eating seaweed- the Hawaiian Gracilara is supposed to be tasty. But I doubt chaeto is edible (otherwise I might have heard of it……)
In the long run, I might add a patch seagrass, if I have space. But that’s a long way away………..
Sponges: I would start with what comes on my live rock. If I order from tampa bay saltwater, I may ask for a few additional ones. I’m aware that these are hard to keep and require feeding, and also possibly silicate dosing.
Molluscs: Down the line I may try to keep a Crocea clam (6-12 month mark). In the meantime, I will keep some snails/conches/etc, - a clean up crew that hitchhikes or otherwise comes with my live rock. Down the line, I may take others, e.g. keep various locally collected molluscs or the nonornamental moluscs from, say, liveplants.com.
Cnidarians:
ANEMONES: I MIGHT, keep a BTA, further down the line (9-12 month mark minimum), with two clownfish. I would put this fairly high up and deep in the rock work (in a place with high flow and good light), to keep it away from the jawfish.
Part of me would have preferred a LTA when I was thinking about the 72” tank, especially given all the sand area I hope to have, but a) they could easily grow enough to take up the whole bed b) which would leave no space for other organisms c) they would be too close to my jawfish, which I’m told are prone to be eaten by anemones. With the 48” tank, I think it’s out.
CORALS: my plan is to start east and work myself up gradually.
- I would start with, on top of whatever hitchhikes on the “premium” aquacultured LR: photosynthetic gorgonians. I will also ask for the siderastrea SPS (Very tough and forgiving SPS; I would prefer a free standing one if possible), and will take any LR hitchhiking SPS’s.
- At the 3-6month mark, I might add a large, centerpiece type photosynthetic gorgonian, zoanthids (maybe a high light requirement one, and then maybe one type that allegedly don’t require very high light, e..g the“darth maul” a local reefer has that’s not so light hungry – I would research this in more depth before buying), and soft corals. I probably wouldn’t get Sarcophyton because they get big and are reportedly toxic to other corals. Similar is true for some kinds of Sinularia, but I might go with them.
- Later (9-12 months), I might add a sand dwelling brain-type coral, (I would have liked an elegance coral, but since I’m getting the 48” vice the 72” tank I doubt I’ll have the space). In particular, I’m thinking of getting a Xmas tree worm-filled Porites specimen; I’d put this on a largish rock in the sandbed in the hopes that it would further encrust. (and I’d do further research on these forms of Porites before selecting a place for it in the aquarium. ) At the (6-12 month mark) hardier SPS corals like a montipora or Porites. I am thinking hard about Montipora capitata, a monti I’m very familiar with from my time diving/snorkeling in Hawaii, which seems to be fairly forgiving, and can grow in both plate and branch versions from the same colony.
- Someday, I might like an Acropora or another fingry/branchy coral (e.g. finger Porites), but I’m not so sure that the nutrient level or inhabitants would be good for acropora in this tank.
Some of these would be placed on the LR pile, some on the sides of the bommie, and maybe one or two showpieces on the top of the bommie. I’d like a biggish gorgonian on the side or top, and an branching coral on the top, but that’s a long way away (and assumes that the flow in the tank is suitable for them. maybe just the right montipora on the top of the bommie). Maybe the BTA can go on the top of the bommie… J
Annelids: I hope Xmas Tree or Feather Duster worms hitchhike on the rock; if not in the longer run (6 months for the feather dusters, 1 yr for the xmas tree) I might add them. I may try to get a porites+xmas tree worm around 9-12 months mark.
Crusteaceans: just whatever hitchhikers initially. Down the line, I may add a cleaner shrimp, a few peppermint shrimp etc. I haven’t researched crusteaceans that much. I may also add a Yasha goby and pistol shrimp
Echinoderms: again, just hitchhikers at first. I may add a reef-safe urchin down the line; I know some are better for our purposes than others. Same with starfish. Frankly, I’m not to familiar with reef-friendly echinoderms and would need to research this more.
Tunicates: I would like some hitchhikers, but again like the sponges I know they’re challenging to beginners. Either way, after the one year mark, if colonies are not enough I may go in the next summer to my nearest seashore (mid-atlantic) and try to collect some.
NOTE: I WILL HAVE TO DO MORE RESEARCH ON LIVESTOCK AND FLOW/LIGHT COMPATABILITY
FISH: I would like to have small, hardy fish. The way I’ve been thinking about this is that the setup would be more like a collection of nano-tanks stuck together, philosophy wise (especially sutiable for my 3:1 48x16x16 and especially for the previous 4.5:1 72x16x16 setups; see “the tank” below). In the 72” setup I probably would have had a few non-nano suitable fish; but otherwise it would be nano-size fish.
Defintes:
Pearly Jawfish – 2-4 depending on tank size (4 only in the 72” tank; 2 otherwise). Probably the first batch of fish to be added
These present a problem: they require a deep sandbed of relatively thick sand (I’ve searched and enquired about this ad nauseam and have the specs saved in a different thread). I’ve been told (by another keeper) that you can keep around 3 inches of sand, and the fish will move the sand around, so I don’t really need to get a full 4-6” sandbed. I would get a couple from KPaquatics
Masked Goby School (5-7, depending on size of tank) – probably in the first batch of fish to be added. I would also get these from KP aquatics.
Purple FIrefish (probably added a month or so after the first batch, if only to not add too many nutrients at the same time)
Aptasia eating Filefish (probably added around the 3-6 month mark. I’m not of course expecting Aiptasia, but think these things are cool in the first place)
1-3 Fairy or Flasher Wrasse, depending on size (Added all together around the 3 month mark): species are Cirrhilabrus cyanopleura “Blue-Sided Fairy” (resident to my mom, and my wife’s, home town in New Taipei city, Taiwan), Paracheilinus filamentosus, Paracheilinus flavianalis. Since I’m getting the 48x16x16 tank, I probably will only have on wrasse, compared to the three I was planning on in the 72”
One or another blenny.
Does that seem kind of sparse for fish life?
Possibles:
- 2X ocellaris clowns (probably added early; on the fence just because they’re fairly common; I might not add them until I add the BTA. Some online research indicates that a pair of even ocellari can become aggressive with other tankmates – something that gives me pause about adding them)
- I was thinking of one or a another tang if I got the 72” tank, but since we’re going with the 48 inch I think that’s out. (I would add it last of all fish, regardless).
- Yasha Goby and Pistol shrimp
Tank Management
Tank size: I was trying to decide between three different tank sizes: an IM Lagoon 50 (5:4 ratio, nominally), a 48x16x16 t(3:1) or a 72x16x16 (4.5:1) tank. Honestly I have an easier time thinking about aquascapes in the longer ones, since if I divvy them up into 3-4 pieces I can have 3x 16x16x16 cubles or 4 18x16x16 near cubes; I can have each as a zone.
Again, while I was writing this we picked the 48.
Sandbed: Talking around, I’ve come to the thinking that around a 3” sandbed would be best for the jawfish. Normally, they require more, but a) the tank won’t be completely for them b) they/I can move the sand as needed to make some areas deeper c) I’m not too sure that a want a deep sand bed throughout the tank d) this way, part of the tank can have a 4-5” deep bed, the rest can have around 2”.
Live rock: I will use Florida maricultured live rock. Tampa Bay saltwater is the default, because their product is good, their online marketing is excellent (tells you what you need to know) and online customer service has been excellent. (they will select the right rocks for your intended scape, and even to some degree select some of the life on request).
That being said, the rock comes from deeper in Tampa bay. Less photosynthetic stuff, more NPS stuff, also from a somewhat cooler temperature than we find on many of our reef tanks. Should not be a problem, but Keys aquacultured live rock might be better for me)
‘Scapes:
Again: I would have about half the tank with live rock. I’d like a bommie, and at least a small shelf.
https://www.nano-reef.com/forums/topic/283085-1ders-bommie-inspired-20-long/
http://www.masa.asn.au/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=183270&start=270
http://www.ultimatereef.net/forums/showthread.php?429890-Bommies-lets-see-em!!/page3
How would I set them up?
Lagoon 50: not quite decided. Probably a rock pile on one side towards the rear, the bommie towards the other side, and a sand area in front with the massive head or such on the sand.
3:1 tank: 1 bommie section, 1 live rock file section, 1 sand area section
4:1 tank: 1 bommie, 1 live rock pile, 2 sand areas
Depending on how much space on my sandbed there is, I’d first like to put a fair number of macroalgae, as mentioned above. I’d also like a massive-type brain-type coral on the bed. If space permits, an elegance coral (but again for the 48” I’m doubtful). Wow, it’s getting crowded……
FLOW: I plan to use at a Maxspect Gyre. I was thiking of these or a pair of the MPx0’s, but I made this decision just based on cost. I can revise next year. I may also put a Gyre vertically, for a left-right vertical flow around the rock flow and bommie.
AUOTMATION:
Automation: I’m a bit conflicted on this. I would also like automatic temperature, salinity, and ammonia monitoring. Monitoring from my phone and email/text warnings would also be nice, but I’m not sure how necessary (except when I’m on vacation)
I would like the lights, temperature and flow to be automatically controlled. If I’m doing that, I might as well have the ATO (a must-have for this tank) controlled by the same system linked to a salinity probe. I’d also like it to automatically feed some dry food – especially since some of the fish on my list allegedly like small feedings throughout the day (See feeding).
I think this is unavoidably leading me to the full apex or the classic. It also seems to me the Seneye is on the table…………….. Any ideas for doing this on the cheap (e.g. get a Kessil and Maxpect controller, and a cheap auto feeder, and just program them to sync their times)
I would like to use tank automation to have variable amounts of flow throughout the day.
I would aim to have it to have low flow for about 12 hours, moderate pulsing type flow (simulating waves) for about 8 hours and heavy pulsing flow for maybe 4. But that would have to be dependent on the livestock; some (e.g. Elegance corals) don’t apparently like heavy flow at all, while others (e.g. the tube corals) probably would like fairly consistent laminar flow (which I could provide with a small, nearby powerhead directed towards them; I could automatically set it on and off). I would also like the light intensity to vary throughout the day.
I am thinking of controlling these with a Neptune Apex, but frankly I balk at the cost and the fact that I’m not so sure I will use its other features. Part of me is just using the Maxpect/Kessil automatic controllers and syncing them, for a lot less money. Also, another part of me wants to use the ammonia monitor function on the Seneye. I need to give more thought to this, and will make a separate post on this.
LIGHTING: I already have a Kessil 360; this would be used in one area of the tank that I’d keep most of the photosynthetic corals. For the 48”, I would a Kessil A or H80 sun.
These would also be controlled automatically, with variable amounts of light through the day.
DOSING: I may keep some carbon in the sump, but given the initial low SPS load and the fact that I’m a beginner, I probably will start out not dosing. After 6 months or so I might start looking into dosing (and will probably dose Vodka). That being said, if I get a lot of sponges on my LR, I might be tempted to start dosing (and measuring!) silicates.
NUTRIENTS: honestly, one of the advantages of this kind of tank design (and not starting with SPS, and even choosing hardy SPS) is that it’s more forgiving on phosphate and Nitrate levels than starting with a heavy-SPS tank. I’ve seen some people allege that non-SPS tanks might be healthier without skimming or with somewhat higher phosphate levels, but I’m not convinced of this and would not intentionally court this. I will try to keep parameters along suggested lines.
Sump/skimmer: if I don’t go with an AIO, I’d get a standard in sump skimmer for the appropriate sized tank. I’d like a fuge in between, as well as a place to hang activated carbon (I won’t dose initially, again just because I don’t want the complexity when starting out.) Alternately, instead of a fuge, I might keep an algae reactor for nutrient absorption and copepod culture.
ATO: necessity. Thinking of either Tunze or Apex……..
Feeding: I would not make dry food from an automatic feeder my only source of feeding, however I’d like dry food supplement during the day (for those species who like a little bit of food constantly). I would normally personally feed some frozen food, freeze dryed food, and keep some pods in the fuge.
Costs:
- $800 for IM Nuvo 40 and stand; $1200 for 48x16x16 tank and stand
- free: Kessil A360 (already purchased)
- ???? Kessil H80 (supplement A360 on macroalgae side of the tank): $130\
- free: Eshopps RS75 sump
- Filter socks, Activated Carbon, Marinepure
- Maxspect Gyre (not including controller): $140
- Skimmer (Coral Box Curve D300): $200
- ATO: Tunze or Apex: $200
- Eheim Compact Plus 3000: $100. Will keep an extra ready to go as backup.
- Algae Reactor: $150
- RODI: $200
- Thermometers: not decided yet. Will keep 2 around
- Apex+ probles: $800
- Icecap: $125
- Module for Kessil: $125
- Live rock: 50lbs + sand in the “package” = $500 when all is said and done
- Live stock budget for 2017-18: $500, max.
This puts my tank into the $4k range for setup…..
Anyway, just some notes. Any thoughts, etc. would be welcome.
All,
Done a lot of thinking on my future tank, and now the stars are aligned so I can go from thinking to action. Apologies that this is long and not so well edited.
This is mainly just thoughts; it will become a tank build once a tank arrives.
The concept
There are many reasons people keep tropical marine life in transparent boxes. Some want to keep some mixture of fish. Some want to keep a mixture of fish and photosynthetic corals for ornamental aesthetics.
I decided for this tank to mimic a very small patch reef and some of the nearby algae/seagrass beds, inspired by such things I’ve come across snorkeling (e.g. a 2ft-ish rock popping out of the rock rubble and sand in 3ft-ish water, 50 yards into the water from a beach, and the fish hanging around and corals growing on it). “Patch reefs” are basically rock (s) popping out of a sand bed in the lagoon zone, ranging from very shallow to fairly deep water. This would be a few rocks, in particular a bommie which down the line could have some interesting corals.
My general vision is the typical live rock pile in about 1/3-1/2 of the tank, a bommie around the half-2/3 mark, and the rest open sand.
Photos which show some things I’m going for:
https://goo.gl/images/FUHWAK
Note the bommie coming out of the sand, and the large branching SPSs on both sides of the bommie, and on the sandbed.
https://goo.gl/images/p8mTSF
Note the bommie on the left (this looks like it’s on the reef flat) with the SPS on top and the NPS on the bottom.
https://goo.gl/images/eqVfPQ
Note the plate corals on the top (moderate flow?) and the NPS stuff below
https://goo.gl/images/NsKLLX
Ditto
Written inspiration (and reasonably detailed surveys) includes the Florida and Pacific lagoon zone sections of John Tullock’s book on Reef Aquaria, as well as Dshaw’s thread on a lagoon in Singapore on nano-reef.com.
One things that I want is to have a balance of the life on the reef. I don’t like loads of live rock and random photosynthetic corals stacked and squeezed to the max; in fact my intention is to, eventually, only have a small selection of photosynthetic corals (one group of zoanthids, a few Pacific soft corals, a few Floridian photosynthetic gorgonians in the first six months, and later maybe some LPS and the hardy kinds of SPS from the lagoon zone – some Montiporae, Siderastrea, brain corals, etc.).
Instead of loading up on photosynthetic corals, I’d like to keep save some space (and keep some shaded areas!) for various nonphotosynthetic sessile bethnic organisms that will hitchhike on maricultured live rock– Tubastrea corals, tunicates (though I get the impression many of these have seasonal life cycles), sponges, barnacles. (I know these are considered somewhat difficult to keep because they need to be fed, making things harder for both maintenance and water quality, especially since I’m a beginner and I’d have to start feeding them right off. I plan to target feed these to the degree possible; knowing that not everything will like target feeding)
I’d also like to keep some macroalgae (not the kind that will proliferate too quicky), besides what’s in the fuge/algae reactor. Eventually, perhaps seagrass (after several years, if there’s space)
I am a beginner, so I want the tank to grow slowly. H(itchkikers)OWLR at first, maybe add the first fish and the macroalgae after a few weeks-months, a few more fish and zoas/soft corals after three months, maybe start adding LPS at the six month mark.
Why “Florido-pacific”? Because the live rock and hitchikers (And of course many CUC) will come from FL. However, many of the inhabitants I’d like to add later will originate from the pacific, if they’re not circumtropical.
Once necessary paramater: ALL, or as many as possible, cords must be hidden away in the tank stand.
The Tank
This is the primary constraint. I was thinking of a 72X16x16 tank at first (and much of this was written when I was vacillating between two tank sizes), but after discussion with everyone in the family we decided 48x16x16 was better for the first tank. I want this to be set up peninsula style.
My fallback (the 48” tank will be a custom tank and for such custom things, even if the company’s perfect, there’s always a chance that something falls through) would be an IM Fusion 40 -$700ish MAP with stand- or maybe a Lagoon 50 - $1100ish MAP with stand. (though I’m not sure the alternate format and the extra 10 gallons is with the $400).
Digression: The IM setups would have to to have completely different rockscapes compared to the 48x16x16 I am spending the rest of this pieces describing; I would have a more conventional scape with a pile of live rock on roughly the back left, the bommie on the mid-back right, and the open sandbed for the rest of the tank (i.e. about ½ the tank). Flow would proably start from a pump on the rear left, directed toward the bommie, to try to make a circular flow from upper left-> upper right -> bottom right-> bottom left.
Inhabitants
Desired inhabitants, grouped in rough descending biological order (as I remember from bio for science majors class many many years ago, the last bio class I took. I believe the organization of kingdom animalia has been reordered, but that’s not important).
(note this represents the maximum list of all potential inhabitants I’m thinking of, NOT what I’ll necessarily all put in, much less what I’ll put in all at once!)
Coraline Algae: I would try to keep one set of each of the two forms of coralline algae from liveplants.com
Macro Algae: I would order the “halimeda sampler” (which is more than halimeda J) from liveplants.com this includes
Halimeda
Shaving Brush – Penicillus dumetosus,
Mermaid’s Fan- Udoeata Spinosa
Pineocone - Rhipocephalus
I might get some red algae/Gracilara (either in the display or maybe in the sump/reactor), as well as chaeto (definitely at least in the sump/reactor). I would use these especially for nutrient absorption and export (once they grow too big they’ll be removed; stuff from the sump/reactor can be fed to any herbivores in the tank. Or, you know we Asians like eating seaweed- the Hawaiian Gracilara is supposed to be tasty. But I doubt chaeto is edible (otherwise I might have heard of it……)
In the long run, I might add a patch seagrass, if I have space. But that’s a long way away………..
Sponges: I would start with what comes on my live rock. If I order from tampa bay saltwater, I may ask for a few additional ones. I’m aware that these are hard to keep and require feeding, and also possibly silicate dosing.
Molluscs: Down the line I may try to keep a Crocea clam (6-12 month mark). In the meantime, I will keep some snails/conches/etc, - a clean up crew that hitchhikes or otherwise comes with my live rock. Down the line, I may take others, e.g. keep various locally collected molluscs or the nonornamental moluscs from, say, liveplants.com.
Cnidarians:
ANEMONES: I MIGHT, keep a BTA, further down the line (9-12 month mark minimum), with two clownfish. I would put this fairly high up and deep in the rock work (in a place with high flow and good light), to keep it away from the jawfish.
Part of me would have preferred a LTA when I was thinking about the 72” tank, especially given all the sand area I hope to have, but a) they could easily grow enough to take up the whole bed b) which would leave no space for other organisms c) they would be too close to my jawfish, which I’m told are prone to be eaten by anemones. With the 48” tank, I think it’s out.
CORALS: my plan is to start east and work myself up gradually.
- I would start with, on top of whatever hitchhikes on the “premium” aquacultured LR: photosynthetic gorgonians. I will also ask for the siderastrea SPS (Very tough and forgiving SPS; I would prefer a free standing one if possible), and will take any LR hitchhiking SPS’s.
- At the 3-6month mark, I might add a large, centerpiece type photosynthetic gorgonian, zoanthids (maybe a high light requirement one, and then maybe one type that allegedly don’t require very high light, e..g the“darth maul” a local reefer has that’s not so light hungry – I would research this in more depth before buying), and soft corals. I probably wouldn’t get Sarcophyton because they get big and are reportedly toxic to other corals. Similar is true for some kinds of Sinularia, but I might go with them.
- Later (9-12 months), I might add a sand dwelling brain-type coral, (I would have liked an elegance coral, but since I’m getting the 48” vice the 72” tank I doubt I’ll have the space). In particular, I’m thinking of getting a Xmas tree worm-filled Porites specimen; I’d put this on a largish rock in the sandbed in the hopes that it would further encrust. (and I’d do further research on these forms of Porites before selecting a place for it in the aquarium. ) At the (6-12 month mark) hardier SPS corals like a montipora or Porites. I am thinking hard about Montipora capitata, a monti I’m very familiar with from my time diving/snorkeling in Hawaii, which seems to be fairly forgiving, and can grow in both plate and branch versions from the same colony.
- Someday, I might like an Acropora or another fingry/branchy coral (e.g. finger Porites), but I’m not so sure that the nutrient level or inhabitants would be good for acropora in this tank.
Some of these would be placed on the LR pile, some on the sides of the bommie, and maybe one or two showpieces on the top of the bommie. I’d like a biggish gorgonian on the side or top, and an branching coral on the top, but that’s a long way away (and assumes that the flow in the tank is suitable for them. maybe just the right montipora on the top of the bommie). Maybe the BTA can go on the top of the bommie… J
Annelids: I hope Xmas Tree or Feather Duster worms hitchhike on the rock; if not in the longer run (6 months for the feather dusters, 1 yr for the xmas tree) I might add them. I may try to get a porites+xmas tree worm around 9-12 months mark.
Crusteaceans: just whatever hitchhikers initially. Down the line, I may add a cleaner shrimp, a few peppermint shrimp etc. I haven’t researched crusteaceans that much. I may also add a Yasha goby and pistol shrimp
Echinoderms: again, just hitchhikers at first. I may add a reef-safe urchin down the line; I know some are better for our purposes than others. Same with starfish. Frankly, I’m not to familiar with reef-friendly echinoderms and would need to research this more.
Tunicates: I would like some hitchhikers, but again like the sponges I know they’re challenging to beginners. Either way, after the one year mark, if colonies are not enough I may go in the next summer to my nearest seashore (mid-atlantic) and try to collect some.
NOTE: I WILL HAVE TO DO MORE RESEARCH ON LIVESTOCK AND FLOW/LIGHT COMPATABILITY
FISH: I would like to have small, hardy fish. The way I’ve been thinking about this is that the setup would be more like a collection of nano-tanks stuck together, philosophy wise (especially sutiable for my 3:1 48x16x16 and especially for the previous 4.5:1 72x16x16 setups; see “the tank” below). In the 72” setup I probably would have had a few non-nano suitable fish; but otherwise it would be nano-size fish.
Defintes:
Pearly Jawfish – 2-4 depending on tank size (4 only in the 72” tank; 2 otherwise). Probably the first batch of fish to be added
These present a problem: they require a deep sandbed of relatively thick sand (I’ve searched and enquired about this ad nauseam and have the specs saved in a different thread). I’ve been told (by another keeper) that you can keep around 3 inches of sand, and the fish will move the sand around, so I don’t really need to get a full 4-6” sandbed. I would get a couple from KPaquatics
Masked Goby School (5-7, depending on size of tank) – probably in the first batch of fish to be added. I would also get these from KP aquatics.
Purple FIrefish (probably added a month or so after the first batch, if only to not add too many nutrients at the same time)
Aptasia eating Filefish (probably added around the 3-6 month mark. I’m not of course expecting Aiptasia, but think these things are cool in the first place)
1-3 Fairy or Flasher Wrasse, depending on size (Added all together around the 3 month mark): species are Cirrhilabrus cyanopleura “Blue-Sided Fairy” (resident to my mom, and my wife’s, home town in New Taipei city, Taiwan), Paracheilinus filamentosus, Paracheilinus flavianalis. Since I’m getting the 48x16x16 tank, I probably will only have on wrasse, compared to the three I was planning on in the 72”
One or another blenny.
Does that seem kind of sparse for fish life?
Possibles:
- 2X ocellaris clowns (probably added early; on the fence just because they’re fairly common; I might not add them until I add the BTA. Some online research indicates that a pair of even ocellari can become aggressive with other tankmates – something that gives me pause about adding them)
- I was thinking of one or a another tang if I got the 72” tank, but since we’re going with the 48 inch I think that’s out. (I would add it last of all fish, regardless).
- Yasha Goby and Pistol shrimp
Tank Management
Tank size: I was trying to decide between three different tank sizes: an IM Lagoon 50 (5:4 ratio, nominally), a 48x16x16 t(3:1) or a 72x16x16 (4.5:1) tank. Honestly I have an easier time thinking about aquascapes in the longer ones, since if I divvy them up into 3-4 pieces I can have 3x 16x16x16 cubles or 4 18x16x16 near cubes; I can have each as a zone.
Again, while I was writing this we picked the 48.
Sandbed: Talking around, I’ve come to the thinking that around a 3” sandbed would be best for the jawfish. Normally, they require more, but a) the tank won’t be completely for them b) they/I can move the sand as needed to make some areas deeper c) I’m not too sure that a want a deep sand bed throughout the tank d) this way, part of the tank can have a 4-5” deep bed, the rest can have around 2”.
Live rock: I will use Florida maricultured live rock. Tampa Bay saltwater is the default, because their product is good, their online marketing is excellent (tells you what you need to know) and online customer service has been excellent. (they will select the right rocks for your intended scape, and even to some degree select some of the life on request).
That being said, the rock comes from deeper in Tampa bay. Less photosynthetic stuff, more NPS stuff, also from a somewhat cooler temperature than we find on many of our reef tanks. Should not be a problem, but Keys aquacultured live rock might be better for me)
‘Scapes:
Again: I would have about half the tank with live rock. I’d like a bommie, and at least a small shelf.
https://www.nano-reef.com/forums/topic/283085-1ders-bommie-inspired-20-long/
http://www.masa.asn.au/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=183270&start=270
http://www.ultimatereef.net/forums/showthread.php?429890-Bommies-lets-see-em!!/page3
How would I set them up?
Lagoon 50: not quite decided. Probably a rock pile on one side towards the rear, the bommie towards the other side, and a sand area in front with the massive head or such on the sand.
3:1 tank: 1 bommie section, 1 live rock file section, 1 sand area section
4:1 tank: 1 bommie, 1 live rock pile, 2 sand areas
Depending on how much space on my sandbed there is, I’d first like to put a fair number of macroalgae, as mentioned above. I’d also like a massive-type brain-type coral on the bed. If space permits, an elegance coral (but again for the 48” I’m doubtful). Wow, it’s getting crowded……
FLOW: I plan to use at a Maxspect Gyre. I was thiking of these or a pair of the MPx0’s, but I made this decision just based on cost. I can revise next year. I may also put a Gyre vertically, for a left-right vertical flow around the rock flow and bommie.
AUOTMATION:
Automation: I’m a bit conflicted on this. I would also like automatic temperature, salinity, and ammonia monitoring. Monitoring from my phone and email/text warnings would also be nice, but I’m not sure how necessary (except when I’m on vacation)
I would like the lights, temperature and flow to be automatically controlled. If I’m doing that, I might as well have the ATO (a must-have for this tank) controlled by the same system linked to a salinity probe. I’d also like it to automatically feed some dry food – especially since some of the fish on my list allegedly like small feedings throughout the day (See feeding).
I think this is unavoidably leading me to the full apex or the classic. It also seems to me the Seneye is on the table…………….. Any ideas for doing this on the cheap (e.g. get a Kessil and Maxpect controller, and a cheap auto feeder, and just program them to sync their times)
I would like to use tank automation to have variable amounts of flow throughout the day.
I would aim to have it to have low flow for about 12 hours, moderate pulsing type flow (simulating waves) for about 8 hours and heavy pulsing flow for maybe 4. But that would have to be dependent on the livestock; some (e.g. Elegance corals) don’t apparently like heavy flow at all, while others (e.g. the tube corals) probably would like fairly consistent laminar flow (which I could provide with a small, nearby powerhead directed towards them; I could automatically set it on and off). I would also like the light intensity to vary throughout the day.
I am thinking of controlling these with a Neptune Apex, but frankly I balk at the cost and the fact that I’m not so sure I will use its other features. Part of me is just using the Maxpect/Kessil automatic controllers and syncing them, for a lot less money. Also, another part of me wants to use the ammonia monitor function on the Seneye. I need to give more thought to this, and will make a separate post on this.
LIGHTING: I already have a Kessil 360; this would be used in one area of the tank that I’d keep most of the photosynthetic corals. For the 48”, I would a Kessil A or H80 sun.
These would also be controlled automatically, with variable amounts of light through the day.
DOSING: I may keep some carbon in the sump, but given the initial low SPS load and the fact that I’m a beginner, I probably will start out not dosing. After 6 months or so I might start looking into dosing (and will probably dose Vodka). That being said, if I get a lot of sponges on my LR, I might be tempted to start dosing (and measuring!) silicates.
NUTRIENTS: honestly, one of the advantages of this kind of tank design (and not starting with SPS, and even choosing hardy SPS) is that it’s more forgiving on phosphate and Nitrate levels than starting with a heavy-SPS tank. I’ve seen some people allege that non-SPS tanks might be healthier without skimming or with somewhat higher phosphate levels, but I’m not convinced of this and would not intentionally court this. I will try to keep parameters along suggested lines.
Sump/skimmer: if I don’t go with an AIO, I’d get a standard in sump skimmer for the appropriate sized tank. I’d like a fuge in between, as well as a place to hang activated carbon (I won’t dose initially, again just because I don’t want the complexity when starting out.) Alternately, instead of a fuge, I might keep an algae reactor for nutrient absorption and copepod culture.
ATO: necessity. Thinking of either Tunze or Apex……..
Feeding: I would not make dry food from an automatic feeder my only source of feeding, however I’d like dry food supplement during the day (for those species who like a little bit of food constantly). I would normally personally feed some frozen food, freeze dryed food, and keep some pods in the fuge.
Costs:
- $800 for IM Nuvo 40 and stand; $1200 for 48x16x16 tank and stand
- free: Kessil A360 (already purchased)
- ???? Kessil H80 (supplement A360 on macroalgae side of the tank): $130\
- free: Eshopps RS75 sump
- Filter socks, Activated Carbon, Marinepure
- Maxspect Gyre (not including controller): $140
- Skimmer (Coral Box Curve D300): $200
- ATO: Tunze or Apex: $200
- Eheim Compact Plus 3000: $100. Will keep an extra ready to go as backup.
- Algae Reactor: $150
- RODI: $200
- Thermometers: not decided yet. Will keep 2 around
- Apex+ probles: $800
- Icecap: $125
- Module for Kessil: $125
- Live rock: 50lbs + sand in the “package” = $500 when all is said and done
- Live stock budget for 2017-18: $500, max.
This puts my tank into the $4k range for setup…..
Anyway, just some notes. Any thoughts, etc. would be welcome.
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