My High Energy Rainbow Garden - Niji No Niwa

[naterealbig]

Spent a few days sourcing King Starboard, and for the size sheet, desired thickness, and required machining it was going to cost around $300 for the finished product. I also have spent the last few days thinking about the time I'll spend scraping it to keep it clean, and how much tougher it will be as I add in corals.

I decided it might be worth it to try a cheaper solution - pvc foam board at Home Depot. After a frustrating experience there this morning, and considering my thoughts above, I decided to add the sand back. (I know, my tank hates me. I promised it that I wouldn't make any other big changes!) Along with this, I redid the aquascape, and added some more rock. I still feel it is minimalistic, and has the right amount of negative space. The fish love it, as they aren't fighting for hiding spaces, and, there is a TON more real estate for corals. I'm going to take a video tomorrow.

 

[rockskimmerflow]

Man, work has been busy - just getting a chance to respond here. I will buy a pack of these magnets and test them in the configuration you recommend and post the results.

The challenge I have with my plumbing is that there is a LOT of head loss - most of it caused by the 1.5" flow meter. Interestingly, I have not used it at all yet, except to get an idea of what I was getting for flow rate on the Fluvals when I first set up the tank. I think I will use it once the reef has matured to verify flow rates - it will be one more factor that I can control and maintain stability with.

As for the Fluval pump, it is still working - I'm just daft. My GFCI had tripped (I have one on each EB832) and de-energized the bus. I didn't realize this, as I didn't get a direct notification from my Apex, and the LED indicators on the EB832 were still lit. Evidently, the indicators stay lit as long as the EB832 is communicating with the CPU, even if there is no line power. Because I have heaters, lights, etc split evenly between the 2 EB832's, the tank continued to operate normally for the most part. I could have realized something was wrong by seeing that my right halide was not turning on, but I've been working so late the lights were off by the time I got home. I have to figure out a way to get a notification when either EB832 loses power though, so time to dig into the manual a little bit. I will go back and edit my original post about the Fluval - they are both operating flawlessly. In fact, they have been running for almost a year now, and there is no evidence of any build-up or precipitation. This is great, mostly because it means I can wait a while before I replace them with something controllable.

You were 100% correct - the my pH has remained relatively stable since removing the chaeto and turning off the H380, with the Kalkwasser being dosed. The biggest win here is that I haven't had to clean my sump - no algae at all. This will save me a ton of time on normal maintenance. I have a large Vertex media reactor that I can put on line if I need to at some point for PO4 control, and I will likely start using it for GAC at some point regardless.

Please post a link to your build thread once you get it going - it will be an epic build, and I'm looking forward to learning a lot from it.

Haha oh yee of little faith! Don't count out those Askoll pumps just cause you saddled them with a weak link in their power supply chain Remember your AC pump is only as reliable as the source of power that feeds it. Sad to year you're still considering replacing them with a pump that has another potential failure point, but I understand the desire to play with more toys in this hobby. The precipitation, or lack thereof, is significant because that is what burns up most cheaper or less thoughtfully designed DC and AC pump blocks. Abyzz, red dragon, and fluval all have built in systems that back flush the rear rotor bearings continuously with pressurized water from the volute to prevent calcium carbonate deposits. Glad you noticed and appreciated the effect of that simple, yet ingenious system on your fluvals.

Using larger diameter main flow lines would greatly reduce pressure losses if you have a tortuous flow path for your plumbing setup. On something in the range of the SP4 or SP6 I'd use 1.5" or 2" ID lines and only neck down to smaller diameters for manifold valves and bulkheads to the tank returns. I've done pumps in series and parallel w/check valves for instant isolation of the pumps in single pump operation and I vastly prefer the parallel mode. A LOT less potential failure modes and built in continuous backup pump running any time you have power. Series is really only advisable in aquarium applications if you want to have fun with the concept. There's no benefits that would not be outweighed by simply sizing up to an appropriate single stage pumping solution. That's just me from a practical perspective since I build systems whose reliability is a reflection on my reputation and my duty to optimize for the sake of a client's livestock. But series mode is fun if you like the idea and want to play with the plumbing possibilities. You definitely get a nice pressure boost from it.

Best of luck with the tank!!

 

[naterealbig]

Haha oh yee of little faith! Don't count out those Askoll pumps just cause you saddled them with a weak link in their power supply chain Remember your AC pump is only as reliable as the source of power that feeds it. Sad to year you're still considering replacing them with a pump that has another potential failure point, but I understand the desire to play with more toys in this hobby. The precipitation, or lack thereof, is significant because that is what burns up most cheaper or less thoughtfully designed DC and AC pump blocks. Abyzz, red dragon, and fluval all have built in systems that back flush the rear rotor bearings continuously with pressurized water from the volute to prevent calcium carbonate deposits. Glad you noticed and appreciated the effect of that simple, yet ingenious system on your fluvals.

Using larger diameter main flow lines would greatly reduce pressure losses if you have a tortuous flow path for your plumbing setup. On something in the range of the SP4 or SP6 I'd use 1.5" or 2" ID lines and only neck down to smaller diameters for manifold valves and bulkheads to the tank returns. I've done pumps in series and parallel w/check valves for instant isolation of the pumps in single pump operation and I vastly prefer the parallel mode. A LOT less potential failure modes and built in continuous backup pump running any time you have power. Series is really only advisable in aquarium applications if you want to have fun with the concept. There's no benefits that would not be outweighed by simply sizing up to an appropriate single stage pumping solution. That's just me from a practical perspective since I build systems whose reliability is a reflection on my reputation and my duty to optimize for the sake of a client's livestock. But series mode is fun if you like the idea and want to play with the plumbing possibilities. You definitely get a nice pressure boost from it.

Best of luck with the tank!!

Hey @rockskimmerflow glad to see you around - I always appreciate your thoughts. You definitely can tell me "i told you so". Remember, it was your recommendation that I switched to the Fluvals to begin with! .

I like the idea of being able to minimize flow for long periods of time during feedings, running moderate flow during ss ops, running high flow during cleaning and maintenance, and redundancy in the event of a failure. I have felt Ecotech made quality equipment, and was at a price point I could afford. If I could cough up the skrilla I'd be the proud owner of two Abyzz pumps for sure. I assume the failure point you mention is the recirc loop, and not the controller?.

I would love to hear your thoughts on bulletproof reefkeeping, as this seems to be your mantra throughout your responses (which I value greatly). What would be your recommendations for my system? Which is your "go to" for standard equipment such as return pumps, skimmers, reactors, controllers?

My first system design iteration did not include a controller, but there were too many things I felt like I needed it for. I rent, and my place is older, so I felt I needed something to let me know if I lost power, turn off my skimmer if a return failed, turn off lights if my AC stopped working, etc.

I do have my Fluval returns configured as you mention; in parallel with dedicated valves on the outlet of each pump, to provide continuity in the event of a failure (or de-energization). If I could go back, i would definitely up size my return plumbing from 1.25" to 1.5" or 2".....

 

[rockskimmerflow]

Hey @rockskimmerflow glad to see you around - I always appreciate your thoughts. You definitely can tell me "i told you so". Remember, it was your recommendation that I switched to the Fluvals to begin with! .

I like the idea of being able to minimize flow for long periods of time during feedings, running moderate flow during ss ops, running high flow during cleaning and maintenance, and redundancy in the event of a failure. I have felt Ecotech made quality equipment, and was at a price point I could afford. If I could cough up the skrilla I'd be the proud owner of two Abyzz pumps for sure. I assume the failure point you mention is the recirc loop, and not the controller?.

I would love to hear your thoughts on bulletproof reefkeeping, as this seems to be your mantra throughout your responses (which I value greatly). What would be your recommendations for my system? Which is your "go to" for standard equipment such as return pumps, skimmers, reactors, controllers?

My first system design iteration did not include a controller, but there were too many things I felt like I needed it for. I rent, and my place is older, so I felt I needed something to let me know if I lost power, turn off my skimmer if a return failed, turn off lights if my AC stopped working, etc.

I do have my Fluval returns configured as you mention; in parallel with dedicated valves on the outlet of each pump, to provide continuity in the event of a failure (or de-energization). If I could go back, i would definitely up size my return plumbing from 1.25" to 1.5" or 2".....

Yes, your current configuration with the flapper style check valves and parallel pumps is my preferred system for built-in reliability. Here's an idea if you want some controllability: Put an L2 on one of the manifold inputs in place of one SP4 (or size up to an SP6 to complement the L2). Then you can cut the flow down significantly with the on-demand control the L2 vectra offers. Not sure if that's low enough flow for your taste in feed mode - just running 1 SP4/6- but that might be the best of both worlds. This configuration would keep you from relying solely on pumps that have a transformer and driver in their list of potential items that can cause failure. I'm not sure what the impeller diameter on the vectra is vs. the SP4 but it would likely be very possible to run them in parallel once you tweaked the vectra settings so that neither pump dead-headed the other.

As far as controllers, skimmers, reactors, etc that's a loaded question haha. Everyone will have their personal personal preferences for brand/type of equipment and that's the beauty of this hobby. There are many ways to operate a reef tank successfully. Personally, I like to focus on the primary ways a reef can fail catastrophically and eliminate as much risk as possible without compromising the potential for long term success of the reef. Naturally, I have my go-tos for equip depending on tank size. I don't run typical 'controllers' as in Apex or GHL type stuff myself, since I like to decentralize my critical components from anything other than the main power source. If my clients want to know what's going on in their tank we just set up a webcam or 2. Temp controllers like ranco, inkbird, or the now defunct digital aquatics reefkeeper lite are as far I go in terms of allowing something to control multiple components.

The key with any sort of system design I put together is an emphasis on softening or eliminating the impact of potential equipment failure modes on the health of the livestock -namely temperature, but also salinity, supplementation/dosing, lighting control, flow, etc. The key is making sure things like one heater can't singularly cook the tank, or lack of one cooling measure can't over/undercool the entire system to critical levels. Same with dosing reservoirs being sized so catastrophe won't ensue if a lot/the whole volume of a supplement was added to the system in event of a doser pump going haywire. Again, same with ATO reservoir capacity and any other system that can be made to not pose a total livestock loss type scenario in the event of worst case failure mode.

 

[naterealbig]

Working on my cinematography skills. Really just wanted to give a 360 view of the system. Next video will have coral and more fish. And my glass will be clean.

 

[naterealbig]

Quick Update:

1. Have added a few more fish, and i currently have 2 x L.dimidiatus, and a large Z. gemmatum in QT right now. They will go in the display in about 18 days. All are eating and healthy.

2. I have begun adding corals to the display. They are doing very well.

3. I'm feeding a ton right now, trying to fatten up an A. tristus. Because of this, i am dosing vinegar and lanthanum chloride to keep NO3 and PO4 in my set ranges.

4. I have placed about 10 Brightwell bio bricks in service. They don't seem to be helping much with nitrate.....

Couple pics and a video with some commentary..... Will take another video and some pics with the fish out...

 

[naterealbig]

Well it's been a year since i filled up the tank.... things have gone slowly, but my patience has been rewarded by parameter stability and livestock health.




Some random notes:

1. I feed the fish very heavily. I almost lost my A. eibli because she wasn't getting enough food. I feed frozen and pellets several times a day now, and she is recovering well.

2. The heavy feedings are resulting in beautiful coloration and fast growth of corals, but they require a resultant significant, and targeted, NO3+PO4 reduction method.

3. I currently dose ~ 80 ml of vinegar daily manually.

4. I dose ~ 0.5 ml of commercial PO4 remover daily manually.

5. Calcium/Alk demand is handled by kalk reactor. When it's capacity is maxed out, i will put my calcium reactor on line.

6. Another thing i do to help combat high NO3/PO4, is change the filter sock daily.

7. I continue to utilize high return pump flow (1300 gph) to get tank water to the filtration quickly, and to prevent detritus buildup in rock and sand.

8. Once the display is filled out with corals, i anticipate being able to reduce/eliminate the manual NO3/PO4 control.

9. The only ancillary filtration equipment I'm running is a skimmer and UV sterilizer.

That's it for now....

 

[naterealbig]

Newest addition....

 

[aabjones888]

very nice!

Newest addition....

 

[naterealbig]

very nice!

Thank you! It definitely is my favorite "piece". I'll wait for it to get 5-6" across before I place it in the display, where hopefully my clowns will take to it.

 

[aabjones888]

Good idea on letting it get bigger, that way your clowns won’t destroy it,lol I’ve seen it happen.

 

[aabjones888]

After checking out the awesome nem again, is it a supernova?

 

[naterealbig]

After checking out the awesome nem again, is it a supernova?

Colorado Sunburst

 

[naterealbig]

GoneBack and forth on this a few times, and have finally committed.... Just became an official member of the Too Dumb To Keep A Reef With Sand Club .

 

[WiscoFishNut]

Awesome build man! Well done!

 

[naterealbig]

Thank you so much. It's been forever since I posted, but not much has really happened. I've pulled the sand out and added it back a couple times - which really has prevented things from stabilizing.... But, things are growing and I've been bb for a few weeks now.

Next steps:

1. Install my 2 x MP60s
2. Purchase Orphek OR2 bars to replace supplemental T5s
3. Install Calcium Reactor and place Kalk Reactor on growout tank.

Got a few Zoa frags in QT now as well...

Cheers

 

[naterealbig]

Got a few things done today, so motivated for another quick post...

Got the Arctic White Starboard installed. Whew that was stressful! Laid out a towel, pulled rock and corals, removed rogue hermits and snails.... Slipped in HDPE (fingers crossed for a satisfactory fit)... Schlit! missed a snail - moved the board - got the snail - heard all fish back out from underneath plastic - try to force board down to bottom. It's tight , so water is pushing back, grab largest rock (40lb) put it on top... plastic finally starts to sink... pray no small fish slip underneath... start replacing corals and rock... resuscitate Jaguar Blenny, Midas Blenny, Royal Gramma.... Done!

Installed and powered up VorTechs.... Easy part done. Now time to route wiring through stand and panduit....

Wow! An instantaneous improvement in soft and LPS coral polyp extension after i removed the 6125's and added the MP60wQD's. Clouds of detritus blown from the rock, and up and into the overflow. Something about the enormous volumetric flow rate, and low water velocity, that make these pumps simply beautiful. Both set to 75% Reef Crest - not synced.

The Zoas/Palys in QT

Updated shot of my precious....

Oh - and absolutely random... I'm an artist. Just finished this a couple days ago. All 9b pencil in watercolor canvas....

 

[naterealbig]

I'm so sad and embarrassed, but now that I've had time to calm down and reflect; i suppose it's time to air the laundry.....

I closed on my new home Feb 28 and rushed to get moved... i was starting training on my new job on the 15th of March and was going to be out of state for two weeks. i had my 6 year old son that weekend, and decided to get fully moved the weekend of the 6th of March. To move my four fish tanks, i secured 3 x 150 gallon tubs, purchased equipment, hoses , ect, outlined a plan to move my 160 gallon display and the 700lb stand that i built along with it, and had 4 incredibly strong backs to help set up to help move it all.

I was up until 1 am The night before the tank move, actually moving all the livestock to tubs in my new kitchenette (by myself). While the job was long and hard, everything went without a hitch, and i was ready to start the tank move at 730 am the next morning....

Step one was disconnecting plumbing and electrical, and moving the large display (~300 lb) into the moving van. Before we could even get the tank all the way off the stand,the corner i was carrying slipped out of my hand, and fell just a couple inches back onto the stand. Like a nightmare in slow motion i realized what i had done, and the horrifying pop that shot to my ears from the corner of the tank i dropped, registerd in my mind.....

Within less than a second, my eyes moved to the corner of the tank, and without a second thought i knew the crack was irreparable. Afraid i would kill the spirit (After all, we still had a MASSIVE 700lb stand, and another full setup to move, along with the rest of the furniture in the house) i told my brothers and friend it was "all good" and we moved the tank into the back of the truck.

The rest of the day was absolutely terrible for me... the enormous task of moving, along with knowing i could not set up my tank (and thinking about all the stuff i had to get done before training on the 15th) weighed incredibly on me for the rest of the day - and days to come.....

Luckily, my brother let me use his 110 gallon, and literally up until the hour i left for my flight i was trying to set up automation, and acclimate livestock....

Here is the tank, which will stay in the garage until i get the balls to give (or throw) it away.....

 

[naterealbig]

Here's the stand in the dining room as it sits now.... It doesn't look very big in the pics, but it's 72"x48"x40" tall...

 

[Mr_Knightley]

I'm so sorry man!! That must suck AEFW having to move with tanks... I'm so sorry that happened. Good luck moving, and may the journey be safe!
God bless you!