Its been needing to happen!
We will have to video call Simon when we are all together. Gonna have to hear Simon say Wonky at least once
Le bar de spray c'est wonky, patience, you won't hear me properly until I unleash the F bomb!
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Its been needing to happen!
We will have to video call Simon when we are all together. Gonna have to hear Simon say Wonky at least once
Think you can get cipro in Mexico amoung other things lol kinda bummed can’t get it from chewy thoAt the rate I'm losing torches and hammers, it would be cheaper to fly to you first class and back to pick it up, than wait another month.
Yeah I could have gotten Cipro while I was in Mexico a few weeks ago, had I known.Think you can get cipro in Mexico amoung other things lol kinda bummed can’t get it from chewy tho
Love that picture! Looks like the fox face is wearing camo ;LurkingNo fish trap and the convict is in the sump, desk end view, just need to rebuild the scape now.
That is one of the interesting details of foxfaces!Love that picture! Looks like the fox face is wearing camo ;Lurking
I called it going Skellator Mode. My one spot gets completely white with black stripes.That is one of the interesting details of foxfaces!
Oh, their skin will actually change color? I thought those were just shadows!That is one of the interesting details of foxfaces!
Oh, no, they totally can change colors (as can most marine fish, as I understand it)! My Fiji bicolor foxface (Siganus uspi) gets gray/white with black and brown camouflage mottling very similar to @najer 's picture of his Magnificent foxface! I am pretty sure it is truly a form of camouflage, especially since the fish tend to change at night or when stressed.Oh, their skin will actually change color? I thought those were just shadows!
That’s so cool, thanks!Oh, no, they totally can change colors (as can most marine fish, as I understand it)! My Fiji bicolor foxface (Siganus uspi) gets gray/white with black and brown camouflage mottling very similar to @najer 's picture of his Magnificent foxface! I am pretty sure it is truly a form of camouflage, especially since the fish tend to change at night or when stressed.
My purple tang (Zebrasoma xanthurum) is a solid deep navy/purple during the day with faint darker spots near the face, but at night becomes lighter blue with some areas somewhat grayish while its sides become black. Even my green reef chromis (Chromis viridis) changes at night to have black barring on the sides on a deeper blue background from almost-white un-patterned light blue during the day.
Some links, if you want to check out foxface camouflage:
1. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Foxface_rabbitfish#/media/File:Siganus_vulpinus_estresado.JPG
2. Reddit: Aquariums/comments/bjtuxu
3. https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/foxface-stressing-me-out.481516/#post-5251881
4. Youtube: fKA6aTXES6o
@Soren yes I think you can use the Fritz which can help get bio filtration kicked off. Pull any carbon if you have it in the hob and I would get the circulation pump running and set it flowing up to agitate the water a bit to add o2 into the water. skimmer will definitely help with that as well. What you are describing sounds to me like low oxygen in the water but please, anyone else chime in cause I'm still new and dont mind being stepped on...also, I may have discovered the cause of the troubles that my raccoon butterflyfish seems to be having, though it does not seem to be getting worse.
When I checked the general pH range to match the freshwater bath, I noticed that there was a high nitrite reading along with high nitrate (using API 5-in-1 test strips). I used tank water from my FOWLR for the first half-fill for my quarantine, so I expected high nitrates, but the high nitrite seems to be an indication that my QT was set up to quickly to actually cycle even with the use of a piece of liverock from my FOWLR and bacteria starters. Ammonia seems to not register with a Salifert test, but I cannot tell if it is true zero or some ammonia. I also have no ammonia registering on a Seachem ammonia badge, though I have heard those are not reliable at low levels.
Would a couple 50% water changes be a good idea over the next few days? How else should I deal with nitrites and possible ammonia? I've started some bioballs culturing in my FOWLR to hopefully get the QT cycled. How long does it usually take for bioballs to be cultured with bacteria?
Any other general advice for possible lack of cycle? The foxface and engineer gobies seem to be doing great, but the raccoon is still breathing about 150-160 times per minute with mouth constantly gaping. It swims listlessly sometimes while hanging in the water tail-down and in one place, but when it swims around the tank, it seems fine. It also occasionally swims to the surface and sticks its mouth out of the water.
I forgot that my sister's coworker gave me some SW aquarium stuff when I first got my tank. The stuff she gave me included a circulation pump that has been added for more flow and a small Tunze skimmer that I plan to use eventually on the QT.
One more note: I have a bottle of Fritz Zyme 9 nitrifying bacteria that has been sitting on a shelf in my basement fishroom for a few months. Should I consider dosing this to improve my QT cycle or is this a waste or hinderance?
Sorry to post all this on Frank's thread... maybe I should shift this to my build thread and just tag you folks here for advice?
@Lost in the Sauce My bicolor has a very interesting and typical camouflage pattern at night that looks strange compared with the normal daytime coloration.
I think Fritz is the one that has to be refrigerated after opening doesn't it?...also, I may have discovered the cause of the troubles that my raccoon butterflyfish seems to be having, though it does not seem to be getting worse.
When I checked the general pH range to match the freshwater bath, I noticed that there was a high nitrite reading along with high nitrate (using API 5-in-1 test strips). I used tank water from my FOWLR for the first half-fill for my quarantine, so I expected high nitrates, but the high nitrite seems to be an indication that my QT was set up to quickly to actually cycle even with the use of a piece of liverock from my FOWLR and bacteria starters. Ammonia seems to not register with a Salifert test, but I cannot tell if it is true zero or some ammonia. I also have no ammonia registering on a Seachem ammonia badge, though I have heard those are not reliable at low levels.
Would a couple 50% water changes be a good idea over the next few days? How else should I deal with nitrites and possible ammonia? I've started some bioballs culturing in my FOWLR to hopefully get the QT cycled. How long does it usually take for bioballs to be cultured with bacteria?
Any other general advice for possible lack of cycle? The foxface and engineer gobies seem to be doing great, but the raccoon is still breathing about 150-160 times per minute with mouth constantly gaping. It swims listlessly sometimes while hanging in the water tail-down and in one place, but when it swims around the tank, it seems fine. It also occasionally swims to the surface and sticks its mouth out of the water.
I forgot that my sister's coworker gave me some SW aquarium stuff when I first got my tank. The stuff she gave me included a circulation pump that has been added for more flow and a small Tunze skimmer that I plan to use eventually on the QT.
One more note: I have a bottle of Fritz Zyme 9 nitrifying bacteria that has been sitting on a shelf in my basement fishroom for a few months. Should I consider dosing this to improve my QT cycle or is this a waste or hinderance?
Sorry to post all this on Frank's thread... maybe I should shift this to my build thread and just tag you folks here for advice?
@Lost in the Sauce My bicolor has a very interesting and typical camouflage pattern at night that looks strange compared with the normal daytime coloration.
Goodnight!I'm out, night folks.. Morning Frank whenever you get back on
Really loving those aips! Can I have them?Not my coral, but I took the photos ;Snaphappy
The Fritz is unopened and available to help get the bio filtration going. I do not have a HOB filter on the QT, just a sponge filter along with ceramic media, a small live rock from my FOWLR, and my experimental 3D-printed porous plates. Thanks for advice not to use carbon (I assume it would hinder the bacteria activity for the biofilter?).@Soren yes I think you can use the Fritz which can help get bio filtration kicked off. Pull any carbon if you have it in the hob and I would get the circulation pump running and set it flowing up to agitate the water a bit to add o2 into the water. skimmer will definitely help with that as well. What you are describing sounds to me like low oxygen in the water but please, anyone else chime in cause I'm still new and dont mind being stepped on
What about before opening? This was a new bottle that was excess when starting my rock cycling in a Brute can for my 90-gallon build. This also means I have had it sitting around for 9 months in the basement since I posted pictures of my cycling rock back in late January this year...I think Fritz is the one that has to be refrigerated after opening doesn't it?