Need help with CO2 Scrubber and recirculating skimmer lid

[Eye H8 Empty V]

So I’m fully engaged in the PH battle. After recalibrating my 2 probes with non-expired calibration fluid I’ve finally got a beat on my tank’s PH. I’ve installed a massive dual chamber CO2 scrubber from BRS with icecap media.

I’m running a Reef Octopus Classic 150 INT. I purchased the recirculating lid and I’m getting some skim mate entering the intake line off the lid. If I open the extra port on the silencer it lowers the pressure but makes the scrubber less effective. The skim mate doesn’t make it all the way to the intake because of the “drip loop” I’ve made with the excess tubing. The 5/8” ID tubing is pretty rigid and I’ve had to place leftover rock on it in order to keep it secured on the collection cup. I’m waiting for a Tee and ball valve so I can tune it better, which will lower the air pressure. I could always switch back to the original skimmer lid and just use the room’s air if there is nogood solution. Any help is appreciated!

Billy

 

[Coolcasino]

A little moisture is ok as long as the media dosent get wet. I have the single reactor. Once a week I disconnect the line from the skimmer lid and let it dry out. Next day plug it back into the lid. You could also install the reactor higher than the skimmer. Wont even need the loops.

 

[Eye H8 Empty V]

A little moisture is ok as long as the media dosent get wet. I have the single reactor. Once a week I disconnect the line from the skimmer lid and let it dry out. Next day plug it back into the lid. You could also install the reactor higher than the skimmer. Wont even need the loops.

The reactor is higher than the skimmer. I think the vacuum pressure it’s pulling. I just do the weekly drying out as you suggest. I was hopping the factory recirculating lid would have been engineered better to alleviate the issue opposed to trying to modify the stock one. I guess I could use the skimmer drain to a collection cut but that’s just adding more parts to the system and more maintenance. Or maybe less maintenance.

Thanks!

 

[christwendt]

So I’m fully engaged in the PH battle. After recalibrating my 2 probes with non-expired calibration fluid I’ve finally got a beat on my tank’s PH. I’ve installed a massive dual chamber CO2 scrubber from BRS with icecap media.

I’m running a Reef Octopus Classic 150 INT. I purchased the recirculating lid and I’m getting some skim mate entering the intake line off the lid. If I open the extra port on the silencer it lowers the pressure but makes the scrubber less effective. The skim mate doesn’t make it all the way to the intake because of the “drip loop” I’ve made with the excess tubing. The 5/8” ID tubing is pretty rigid and I’ve had to place leftover rock on it in order to keep it secured on the collection cup. I’m waiting for a Tee and ball valve so I can tune it better, which will lower the air pressure. I could always switch back to the original skimmer lid and just use the room’s air if there is nogood solution. Any help is appreciated!

Billy

Can I see the lid you bought or how you are connecting the attachments. Did you drill into your lid? Making a moisture trap can help too.

 

[Coolcasino]

I think this is what he has.

 

[Eye H8 Empty V]

I think this is what he has.

In the extremely short time I've been reefing, Reef Octopus products seem very well made. I've got the PS with a swapped out Reef Octopus Varios4s, 2 Powerheads, and return pump. It's all a part of my Hydros System. This top seems like it needs some work though.

I travel every 2 weeks, sometimes for 2 days, others up to 6. If the stock collection cup fills to whatever level I set it at, it triggers an optical sensor that shuts off the skimmer pump. If I'm out of town and it triggers, my skimmer will be offline and skimmate will probably make it way to the scrubber until I get back home.

I decided to buy a Reef Octopus skimmate collection system that has carbon at the top to alleviate odor. I know there's cheaper options available but I'm pretty brand loyal. I've read some reviews and people seem pretty stoked on them. I think by keeping the liquid out of the stock collection cup, both issues will be resolved. It's not cheap but it's got an overflow failsafe. If that kicks in it buys me more time as the stock collection cup will start to fill. That should buy me enough time.

Travelling definitely increases the cost of the equipment needed, as I'm finding out now. I was gone for 6 days and my RO reservoir was dry. It caused my tank level to drop and salinity to raise slightly. The kicker was that my return pump was sucking air and spewing bubbles into the tank. I got a call saying there was water all over the floor and it was warping our flooring. I discovered that we have laminate flooring in our new house, and its far from waterproof. I really looks like wood. That was disappointing. The bubbles somehow created a leak in the return line bulkhead on the tank. I was able to kill the return pump from the app and superglue the lifted layers of the flooring. It turned out pretty good. So now when I'm gone for 4+ days I'll throw a Hydros ATO system in a 5gal jug. I can have the 5gal jug top off the main reservoir and use an optical sensor to kill the return pump but keep the powerheads on for circulation and aeration. More stuff to buy, wonderful.

I love the Hydros system. In order to get all the stuff I'm using with an Apex or GHL system, it would have cost me 2x-3x. From what I've seen, it's a lot of programming. Hydros is extremely modular. With my Control4 and Wave Engine, I'm able to power and control so many devices. This eliminates individual controllers and Power supplies simplifying things, eliminating failure points, and leaving more room in the sump area. When they release the Kraken, it'll be a game changer. Hopefully that one power supply will remove all 4 Kessil A360x's and DC pump's giant power bricks and controllers. It's got 8 24v ports and 4 12v ports. The 12v ports can power/control devices like dosing pumps, ato's, RO solenoids, and CO2 solenoids. I'm sure there's more to come. I believe the CO2 solenoid can help with PH inline with my scrubber. dangit! More crap to put on the wish list.

That's my rant for the night.

Billy

 

[christwendt]

I think this is what he has.

Do you have a link for this ? I’ve seen it but never for sale.I also can’t find the reef octo co2 scrubber either. I know they make it but I can’t find that online for sale either.

 

[christwendt]

In the extremely short time I've been reefing, Reef Octopus products seem very well made. I've got the PS with a swapped out Reef Octopus Varios4s, 2 Powerheads, and return pump. It's all a part of my Hydros System. This top seems like it needs some work though.

I travel every 2 weeks, sometimes for 2 days, others up to 6. If the stock collection cup fills to whatever level I set it at, it triggers an optical sensor that shuts off the skimmer pump. If I'm out of town and it triggers, my skimmer will be offline and skimmate will probably make it way to the scrubber until I get back home.

I decided to buy a Reef Octopus skimmate collection system that has carbon at the top to alleviate odor. I know there's cheaper options available but I'm pretty brand loyal. I've read some reviews and people seem pretty stoked on them. I think by keeping the liquid out of the stock collection cup, both issues will be resolved. It's not cheap but it's got an overflow failsafe. If that kicks in it buys me more time as the stock collection cup will start to fill. That should buy me enough time.

Travelling definitely increases the cost of the equipment needed, as I'm finding out now. I was gone for 6 days and my RO reservoir was dry. It caused my tank level to drop and salinity to raise slightly. The kicker was that my return pump was sucking air and spewing bubbles into the tank. I got a call saying there was water all over the floor and it was warping our flooring. I discovered that we have laminate flooring in our new house, and its far from waterproof. I really looks like wood. That was disappointing. The bubbles somehow created a leak in the return line bulkhead on the tank. I was able to kill the return pump from the app and superglue the lifted layers of the flooring. It turned out pretty good. So now when I'm gone for 4+ days I'll throw a Hydros ATO system in a 5gal jug. I can have the 5gal jug top off the main reservoir and use an optical sensor to kill the return pump but keep the powerheads on for circulation and aeration. More stuff to buy, wonderful.

I love the Hydros system. In order to get all the stuff I'm using with an Apex or GHL system, it would have cost me 2x-3x. From what I've seen, it's a lot of programming. Hydros is extremely modular. With my Control4 and Wave Engine, I'm able to power and control so many devices. This eliminates individual controllers and Power supplies simplifying things, eliminating failure points, and leaving more room in the sump area. When they release the Kraken, it'll be a game changer. Hopefully that one power supply will remove all 4 Kessil A360x's and DC pump's giant power bricks and controllers. It's got 8 24v ports and 4 12v ports. The 12v ports can power/control devices like dosing pumps, ato's, RO solenoids, and CO2 solenoids. I'm sure there's more to come. I believe the CO2 solenoid can help with PH inline with my scrubber. dangit! More crap to put on the wish list.

That's my rant for the night.

Billy

What lid do you use and if so can you provide link? I have same skimmer.

 

[christwendt]

I think this is what he has.

I lied it seems they are more readily available now. Thanks.

 

[Eye H8 Empty V]

I lied it seems they are more readily available now. Thanks.

It did take me a while to find it. I put the link below. I purchased from fishtanksdirect.com and it shipped fast and was the best price I could find.

The rigidity of the 5/8" ID tubing causes the lid to not seat properly. Right now I've got a large rubber band and rock keeping it secured. Skimmate foam is dripping down the outside of the collection cup. It not only makes a mess but stinks!. I've got some 5/8" 90 degree barb fittings that I'll be installing to relieve the tension. I also purchased the same in 3/8" for the line feeding air from the scrubber to the skimmer silencer along with a tee and ball valve. This way I can tune it and allow non-scrubbed air to enter the line.

Skimmer Lid
90 Degree Barb Fittings
3/8" Push to Connect Tee
3/8" Inline Ball Valve

 

[christwendt]

It did take me a while to find it. I put the link below. I purchased from fishtanksdirect.com and it shipped fast and was the best price I could find.

The rigidity of the 5/8" ID tubing causes the lid to not seat properly. Right now I've got a large rubber band and rock keeping it secured. Skimmate foam is dripping down the outside of the collection cup. It not only makes a mess but stinks!. I've got some 5/8" 90 degree barb fittings that I'll be installing to relieve the tension. I also purchased the same in 3/8" for the line feeding air from the scrubber to the skimmer silencer along with a tee and ball valve. This way I can tune it and allow non-scrubbed air to enter the line.

Skimmer Lid
90 Degree Barb Fittings
3/8" Push to Connect Tee
3/8" Inline Ball Valve

Thank you. This may be of help to you for preventing the moisture (skimmate from entering the media). It acts as a pre reservoir. Comes in available 5/8th

32oz CO2 Scrubber Skimmate Collection Container V1

Premade 32oz clear skimmate collections container with your choice of barb size and color.

fishofhex.com

 

[reddogf5]

Are you sure it is skimate? I get condensation in mine, and just lift the lines so it drains back. I made the cover for mine, and it has a float to close the passage off if the skimmer goes crazy and pumps a lot of water out, so I know it's not skimate.

 

[BAMatter]

I’m using a BRS canister as a moisture trap and keep the media a couple inches off the bottom of my Bashsea reactor. Still get a little bit of condensation in the connecting line and bottom of Bashsea, but seems to be working out fine for the time being.

 

[Eye H8 Empty V]

Are you sure it is skimate? I get condensation in mine, and just lift the lines so it drains back. I made the cover for mine, and it has a float to close the passage off if the skimmer goes crazy and pumps a lot of water out, so I know it's not skimate.

It’s definitely skimmate foam. It’s brown and disgusting.

 

[Eye H8 Empty V]

Thank you. This may be of help to you for preventing the moisture (skimmate from entering the media). It acts as a pre reservoir. Comes in available 5/8th

32oz CO2 Scrubber Skimmate Collection Container V1

Premade 32oz clear skimmate collections container with your choice of barb size and color.

fishofhex.com

I just got the Reef Octopus 4” Waste Collector yesterday. I went to install it today and it’s floating in the sump water. I’ve got to figure out how to weigh it down. If not I’ll have to put it out inside the sump which will be a bummer.

Thanks for the link! Now I’m dealing with my tank running too lean. I just tested my Nitrates and they’re at 0.0ppm, PH is 8.3 and alkalinity is 10. What is going on!!!!

 

[christwendt]

I just got the Reef Octopus 4” Waste Collector yesterday. I went to install it today and it’s floating in the sump water. I’ve got to figure out how to weigh it down. If not I’ll have to put it out inside the sump which will be a bummer.

Thanks for the link! Now I’m dealing with my tank running too lean. I just tested my Nitrates and they’re at 0.0ppm, PH is 8.3 and alkalinity is 10. What is going on!!!!

I have the issue with low nitrates when I overkill my filtration. I need to keep my chaeto small and only 10 hours of light on it or my nitrates hit zero. Maybe back down on filtration or get more fish.

 

[Eye H8 Empty V]

I have the issue with low nitrates when I overkill my filtration. I need to keep my chaeto small and only 10 hours of light on it or my nitrates hit zero. Maybe back down on filtration or get more fish.

My filtration is definitely overkill. I’ve got a 10” fleece roller mat and oversized skimmer. Right now I’ve only got 2 inhabitants. A Tomini Tang and Blue Hippo Tang. I’ve also got a Desjardini Sailfin Tang and Female Japanese Swallowtail Angel in QT along with a Midas and Lawnmower Blenny QT’d by Dr Reef. Unfortunately the fish in my QT won’t be ready until 3/17, and the Dr Reef fish are 2 weeks out. I guess I can just over feed and see if I can get them to rise. My LPS’ are definitely suffering from the low nutrients. I even lost a Xenia!

Billy

 

[DeputyDog95]

So I’m fully engaged in the PH battle. After recalibrating my 2 probes with non-expired calibration fluid I’ve finally got a beat on my tank’s PH. I’ve installed a massive dual chamber CO2 scrubber from BRS with icecap media.

I’m running a Reef Octopus Classic 150 INT. I purchased the recirculating lid and I’m getting some skim mate entering the intake line off the lid. If I open the extra port on the silencer it lowers the pressure but makes the scrubber less effective. The skim mate doesn’t make it all the way to the intake because of the “drip loop” I’ve made with the excess tubing. The 5/8” ID tubing is pretty rigid and I’ve had to place leftover rock on it in order to keep it secured on the collection cup. I’m waiting for a Tee and ball valve so I can tune it better, which will lower the air pressure. I could always switch back to the original skimmer lid and just use the room’s air if there is nogood solution. Any help is appreciated!

Billy

Just curious. Why are you even using the silencer if you have a scrubber? I have a similar setup and can post more later, but I go direct to the venturi form the solenoid, bypassing the silencer. The skimmer is really quiet running through the scrubber, which it is 90 percent of the time.

 

[DeputyDog95]

In the extremely short time I've been reefing, Reef Octopus products seem very well made. I've got the PS with a swapped out Reef Octopus Varios4s, 2 Powerheads, and return pump. It's all a part of my Hydros System. This top seems like it needs some work though.

I travel every 2 weeks, sometimes for 2 days, others up to 6. If the stock collection cup fills to whatever level I set it at, it triggers an optical sensor that shuts off the skimmer pump. If I'm out of town and it triggers, my skimmer will be offline and skimmate will probably make it way to the scrubber until I get back home.

I decided to buy a Reef Octopus skimmate collection system that has carbon at the top to alleviate odor. I know there's cheaper options available but I'm pretty brand loyal. I've read some reviews and people seem pretty stoked on them. I think by keeping the liquid out of the stock collection cup, both issues will be resolved. It's not cheap but it's got an overflow failsafe. If that kicks in it buys me more time as the stock collection cup will start to fill. That should buy me enough time.

Didn't your Reef Octo DC Skimmer come with a controller and a float switch for the collection cup? Or do they have an optical sensor now?

Is there a way to use the Reef Octo skimmate collection system in the sump? I don't have any more room under my stand, but I can't help but think that this piece will float, right?

FWIW, I'm having the same issue with a lot of moisture in my recirc scrubber setup. I'm using the same jumbo double reactor and the same Reef Octo recirc lid.

My scrubber reactor is much higher than my skimmer and I also have a drip loop where there is a ton of liquid collecting, which I have to assume is affecting air flow. My initial thought is to put a "catch can" inline with a 3-way T at the drip loop, but that is one more thing I'll have to maintain and figure out how to mount.

FWIW, we put a 90 degree fitting on the port on the Reef Octo skimmer lid, and that relieved all the tension on the line running to the scrubber. They really should include that because there's almost no way to plumb that hose without having to bend a line that will most certainly kink if you don't go straight down.

 

[REEFRIED!]

I think the best option is to have a water or moisture collector before the CO2 reactor. Kind of like two reactors. One empty that just catches moisture then the reactor with media. I suppose you could just use any Tupperware or plastic item to catch moisture then have the supply to the reactor draw from the top of the container.