Need recommendation

kp73 · Jun 28, 2025

I went on vacation (Murphy’s Law loves when I go on vacation). One of the several things that happened was my ATO failed (had been working fine for months). I have a 25gal mixed reef and the water evaporated out and the person taking care of my place was only told to keep an eye on the ATO jug and when it got low, to move the pump to the other ATO jug (back up). She kept saying it was more than halfway full. About 5 days into my trip I realized what was happening, but it was too late. She added 6 gal of RO water to get it back up to the levels it needed. A reefing friend drove 4 hours (2+2) last night to access everything. All fish dead, most inverts dead, coral seems fine, maxima clam dead, my favorite anemone dead. Needless to say, he said it smelled bad. He got it cleaned and tested everything and added Tropic Marin Nitrobiotic. Today it is clear, but even my pumping xenia (yes I know how bad that is) is as limp as a [insert joke here].

When I get back, I was going to get the Osmolator 3155 to replace my ATO. But I also want a dry protected pump and something to turn the heater off when the water is too low (heater in the AIO). My UV probably fried to with no water running through it. Now that I need to spend money to restock (once I change the water make and make sure params are good), I can’t spend $1000s on equipment. Is there something someone can suggest? The pump I have now is 2.95” x 1.71” x 2.17” and just fits. Most of the dry protection pumps I found online are larger for at least a 210gph pump. So that is when I decided to maybe go the controller route. Ideally would love to have something WiFi connected so I get alerts, but that is probably too expensive.

Thought?

Bigfishy1 · Jun 28, 2025

There are a few options and there are many opinions when it comes to a controller.
I have been running Neptune Apex for many years, probably over 16 years. I love that there are so many options \ monitoring- alerting one can do with the Apex. It’s not cheap but could have alerted you to the problem.
For peace of mine and the cost of livestock i don’t mind the cost.
I recommend doing research and pick something in your price range.

The hydros controller is also a great option.

kp73 · Jun 28, 2025

Thank you

Well that is the thing, I was a bit overwhelmed by all the options when I was looking at BRS and have a tendency to go overboard.

So far:
Apex and Hydros are the brands I have been recommended.

Just so I am understanding. Ideally I am looking for a controller that has outlets for things like the heater and pump (maybe skimmer) with a low water probe? Is the Osmolator overkill if a get a controller or still a good idea? I know it has high and low water sensor, but not WiFi. I know Alexa can listen for beeping appliances, not sure how great it is though.

Mr. Mojo Rising · Jun 28, 2025

What ATO did you have? I ask because if you have one of the cheaper ATO's from amazon, those sensors tend to fail. I've tried 2 of them with the same result. If you are using this kind of ATO, you should replace it regardless if you have a controller or not.

For controller, I like my hydros, you can purchase components separately so its not too hard on the wallet at one time. Having a hydros has a saved me a couple of times while I've been away, the wifi connection is great and you can access the system from anywhere to turn machines off/on if you need to.

PS- sorry for your losses, that sucks.

kp73 · Jun 28, 2025

Mr. Mojo Rising said:
What ATO did you have? I ask because if you have one of the cheaper ATO's from amazon, those sensors tend to fail. I've tried 2 of them with the same result. If you are using this kind of ATO, you should replace it regardless if you have a controller or not.

For controller, I like my hydros, you can purchase components separately so its not too hard on the wallet at one time. Having a hydros has a saved me a couple of times while I've been away, the wifi connection is great and you can access the system from anywhere to turn machines off/on if you need to.

PS- sorry for your losses, that sucks.

That was exactly the type of ATO I had. I guess it missed me and decided to act out.

You are a second req for the Hydros so that is good.

exnisstech · Jun 28, 2025

Too bad JBJ discontinued their ATO units that used float switches instead of optical sensors. I wrapped this this one in a nylon stocking and never cleaned or touched it for over 6 years until i broke the tank down. I still have two running as well as 3 with optical sensors. Given a choice i would pick float switches all day. Even my tunze has one as a failsafe.

n2585722 · Jun 28, 2025

kp73 said:
Thank you

Well that is the thing, I was a bit overwhelmed by all the options when I was looking at BRS and have a tendency to go overboard.

So far:
Apex and Hydros are the brands I have been recommended.

Just so I am understanding. Ideally I am looking for a controller that has outlets for things like the heater and pump (maybe skimmer) with a low water probe? Is the Osmolator overkill if a get a controller or still a good idea? I know it has high and low water sensor, but not WiFi. I know Alexa can listen for beeping appliances, not sure how great it is though.

I have the Hydros system and the ATO and AWC is controlled by the Hydros controller. I have a maximum on time setup and a Maximum on time set for the ATO if it stays on the maximum on time it will turn off the output and send an alert. If it stays off past the maximum off time it will send an alert. If it does either I want to know so I can check on things. You can also setup alerts for temp, ph and salinity if you want. It depends on what you want to monitor which controller or controllers you get. I have a lot of Hydros info in "My Tank Thread". You can click on that banner in one of my post to get to my build thread here on R2R. The Hydros post start on page 6 post #119 when I got my first Hydros controller. Now the Hydros collective controls at the tank and at the mixing station in the garage.

kp73 · Jun 28, 2025

Ok, so here is where I am at now. Hydros controller (not sure which one yet, depends on ports needed), hydros power strip (for things like heater, etc), hydros triple ATO sensor and micro pump. But now I am stuck with the return pump. I got that a DC pump allows for flow adjustment, but I am having a hard time finding one that fits my space and can be controlled by the Hydros controller. My understanding is that you can write a rule that says if the pump resistance changes (no water) you can shut off the pump. I don’t see where there is a low water sensor that stays submerged, but notifies the system when dry. So that is why I was going the pump resistance way and not simply just plug a regular pump into the Hydros powerstrip. This one would fit my space:

MightyJet Mini Universal AIO DC Return Pump (266 GPH)

But it looks like it is hard wired into its controller instead of plugging in. It has its own dry run protection, but I was hoping for integration with monitoring.

Any suggestions for a pump that would fit in a 2.7”x2.7” space?

n2585722 · Jun 28, 2025

kp73 said:
Ok, so here is where I am at now. Hydros controller (not sure which one yet, depends on ports needed), hydros power strip (for things like heater, etc), hydros triple ATO sensor and micro pump. But now I am stuck with the return pump. I got that a DC pump allows for flow adjustment, but I am having a hard time finding one that fits my space and can be controlled by the Hydros controller. My understanding is that you can write a rule that says if the pump resistance changes (no water) you can shut off the pump. I don’t see where there is a low water sensor that stays submerged, but notifies the system when dry. So that is why I was going the pump resistance way and not simply just plug a regular pump into the Hydros powerstrip. This one would fit my space:

MightyJet Mini Universal AIO DC Return Pump (266 GPH)
But it looks like it is hard wired into its controller instead of plugging in. It has its own dry run protection, but I was hoping for integration with monitoring.

Any suggestions for a pump that would fit in a 2.7”x2.7” space?

I use a float switch for my low water sensor, but you can also use one of the optical sensors also. I also have a high water sensor which is also a float switch. Those were already installed in my sump from the previous controller. I use a Sicce SDC 300 pump which can be controlled by Hydros through the Sicce cloud. There is a limit to the number of changed made in a given time frame but that should not be an issue with the return pump. The XP8 is an 8 AC outlet controller you can use to switch AC powered devices on and off. You would need to connect it to a controller that has inputs and create a collective to be able to contol any of the outputs using inputs. A collective acts like a large controller with the some of all inputs and outputs on the member controllers. All controllers in the collective have to be connected together using command bus ports and use 2 terminators on the 2 open command bus ports. Communications between the controllers in a collective is done over the command bus. I currently have 15 controllers in my main collective. I did get them over the years and not all at once.

n2585722 · Jun 28, 2025

kp73 said:
Ok, so here is where I am at now. Hydros controller (not sure which one yet, depends on ports needed), hydros power strip (for things like heater, etc), hydros triple ATO sensor and micro pump. But now I am stuck with the return pump. I got that a DC pump allows for flow adjustment, but I am having a hard time finding one that fits my space and can be controlled by the Hydros controller. My understanding is that you can write a rule that says if the pump resistance changes (no water) you can shut off the pump. I don’t see where there is a low water sensor that stays submerged, but notifies the system when dry. So that is why I was going the pump resistance way and not simply just plug a regular pump into the Hydros powerstrip. This one would fit my space:

MightyJet Mini Universal AIO DC Return Pump (266 GPH)
But it looks like it is hard wired into its controller instead of plugging in. It has its own dry run protection, but I was hoping for integration with monitoring.

Any suggestions for a pump that would fit in a 2.7”x2.7” space?

You can alway plug the return pump into a Hydros AC output and control power to it that way. Also on heater control alway use a backup off just in case. I use heaters with their own thermostats that are set about 3 degrees above the turn off setpoint on the Hydros. Others use another controller and setup the Hydros as the backup off. The way I do it since I have the two heaters on separate XP8 outlets I set the power monitoring in the XP8 with a range of 45-55 watts for a 50 watt heater. If it gets out of that range when the outlet is on I will get an alert.

Bigfishy1 · Jun 28, 2025

I have my Apex set do do everything that has been mentioned. You can use a flow sensor with Apex to detect if the water flow changes or stops. You could also use a float switch to alert if water level gets low. Again both controllers are great. I have it doing auto water changes, controlling my MP40s, monitors and chan set down my heater. I have it turn on my rodi and fill my water reservoir when 5 gallons are left and shuts off when it is full. This saves my rodi system from Tds creep. Everything in both pictures is controlled by my APEX. I can check in remotely and manually control if I want to. It sends alerts if there are problems with the tank. I have it also feeding my fish.

tbrown · Jun 28, 2025

Hydros is great. They have float or sensor type level indicators and there's even DIY designs for level tape indicators.

I use an ATO similar to the Osmolator and then I have a Hydros digital level sensor that shuts it off if it gets 1/4" above the shut off level. Lately, for some reason, the ATO has been going almost an inch above running level before shutting off so the Hydros is a good backup.

The Hydros is great and easily expandable. I use mine as a secondary shut off for the Inkbird controller as well. My heater is set to 78, Inkbird is set to 78, Hydros is set to 78. Any one or two fails and everything shuts off anyway.

kp73 · Jun 28, 2025

Thank you to everyone that has replied. I think I have a good foundation to get started. I just need to research a bit what the Hydros powerstrip can do in terms of monitoring wattage, etc.

n2585722 · Jun 28, 2025

kp73 said:
Thank you to everyone that has replied. I think I have a good foundation to get started. I just need to research a bit what the Hydros powerstrip can do in terms of monitoring wattage, etc.

The XP8 if that is what you are referring to is a controller that just happens to have AC outlets as it's ports. I have the XP8 and it does have power monitoring. As an example the is one of my heater output's settings. I had to take 2 screenshots to get it all but it scrolls on my iPad. I have it set to turn on at 76.5 degrees and to turn off 76.7 degrees. It can either be on or off between turn on and turn off depending on what happened last. I have 2 temp sensors on 2 inputs on another controller in the collective that are used as the inputs. The output device on this is on my XP8 outlet 6. It is a 50 watt heater and I have the power range set from 45-55 watts so as long as it stays within those settings when on it will not send an alert but if it gets out either way an alert is sent since I have that set to orange alert level. If for some reason there is an issue with the input it is set to default to off. I have advanced settings set to on and I have a minimum off time of 5 minutes so it has to stay off at least 5 minutes before it can come back on. I also have a minimum on time of 5 minutes so once on it has to stay on at least 5 minutes unless the depends on or active when forces it off. I have the maximum on times set to 2 hours and 30 minutes but I do have run past max on time set to on so it will not turn off the output but will send an alert which is set to orange. I don't have the active in modes displayed but a mode is like feed mode, low power mode etc. You can set the output to be either active in each mode or not. Like if your heater is in the sump and you turn off the return for a mode you would also want the heater to turn off also. That can also be done with the depends on mode though like I have set here. The depends on is set to the return pump and the dependency mode is set to off if off. So if the return pump is turned off in the controller then the heater output will also turn off. I also set the skimmer depends on to the return pump. Also the minimum off time will not start the countdown during a depends on. Once the depends on clears the 5 minute countdown will start so the return would have to be on for 5 minutes before the heater output can turn back on. Hope this helps explain the XP8 outputs some. There are wifi power strips but with those there is no power monitoring. Also the Launch AC output do not have power monitoring either.

tbrown · Jun 28, 2025

kp73 said:
Thank you to everyone that has replied. I think I have a good foundation to get started. I just need to research a bit what the Hydros powerstrip can do in terms of monitoring wattage, etc.

The XP8 and Launch can, the WiFi power strip cannot if I recall correctly.

tbrown · Jun 28, 2025

n2585722 said:
The XP8 if that is what you are referring to is a controller that just happens to have AC outlets as it's ports. I have the XP8 and it does have power monitoring. As an example the is one of my heater output's settings. I had to take 2 screenshots to get it all but it scrolls on my iPad. I have it set to turn on at 76.5 degrees and to turn off 76.7 degrees. It can either be on or off between turn on and turn off depending on what happened last. I have 2 temp sensors on 2 inputs on another controller in the collective that are used as the inputs. The output device on this is on my XP8 outlet 6. It is a 50 watt heater and I have the power range set from 45-55 watts so as long as it stays within those settings when on it will not send an alert but if it gets out either way an alert is sent since I have that set to orange alert level. If for some reason there is an issue with the input it is set to default to off. I have advanced settings set to on and I have a minimum off time of 5 minutes so it has to stay off at least 5 minutes before it can come back on. I also have a minimum on time of 5 minutes so once on it has to stay on at least 5 minutes unless the depends on or active when forces it off. I have the maximum on times set to 2 hours and 30 minutes but I do have run past max on time set to on so it will not turn off the output but will send an alert which is set to orange. I don't have the active in modes displayed but a mode is like feed mode, low power mode etc. You can set the output to be either active in each mode or not. Like if your heater is in the sump and you turn off the return for a mode you would also want the heater to turn off also. That can also be done with the depends on mode though like I have set here. The depends on is set to the return pump and the dependency mode is set to off if off. So if the return pump is turned off in the controller then the heater output will also turn off. I also set the skimmer depends on to the return pump. Also the minimum off time will not start the countdown during a depends on. Once the depends on clears the 5 minute countdown will start so the return would have to be on for 5 minutes before the heater output can turn back on. Hope this helps explain the XP8 outputs some. There are wifi power strips but with those there is no power monitoring. Also the Launch AC output do not have power monitoring either.

The launch can't?