Need some help with water chemistry

flat6guy

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
Jan 30, 2018
Messages
98
Reaction score
50
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Hi all,

I'm struggling with a low PH, high nitrates, nuisance algae, cyano (I think), bubble algae and fish loss. In short my tank is a mess!. I've been trying over the last month to figure out what's going on and have invested some money into testing equipment and other equipment.

I added an Apex with Trident to help me with tank measurements and future automation. Prior to this the tank was set up for a year and half. I did little testing as I hate it but was doing water changes about every two weeks. I would change out 10 gallons. During this time I'd suck out the detritus that accumulated in the back filter sections and blowing off the rockwork.

After setting up the Apex PH was measuring 7.6 up to 7.7 through out the day. My Alk measurements started off at 8.25dkh. By the end of the week this number dropped to 7.9 ish. A 25% water change brought the Ph up to 7.7-7.8 and Alk to 8.4. By the end of the week I noticed the PH and Alk dropping off again. I suspected this as anytime I performed a water change, the corals perked up.

Things I've tested and learned over the last month since the Apex was setup.
PH avg is 7.7 Salt 32.8ppm, temp 77.5, orp 310, alk avg 8.1, CA avg 450, MG avg 1350. I've purchased a C02 handheld meter to measure the amount of C02 in the room. I found it averaging 800ppm. I hooked up a tube to the skimmer and vented to the window. PH increased aprox but never got above 7.9 with alk avg of 8.1. Opening a window isn't an option this time of the year as it's COLD outside. I purchased a C02 scrubber and plumbed to the skimmer intake. PH went up .3 to about 7.9 with the alk at 7.9. I assume if I can get the alk up to 8.5 ish the PH would also go up too. The thing I've noticed is the CA and MG numbers drop very little in comparison to the ALK. I started trying to raise the alk via dosing. I purchased fluval alk supplement from the local fish store. I started off with a 10ml dose as instructions stated 10ml per 13 gallons. This shot my alk up from 7.9 to 8.5 overnight. A little faster then I wanted. The alk dropped back to 8.2 within a day and a half. I added .25ml twice a day with the alk still dropping. Moved up to .5ml twice per day. Still drops. Moved up to 1ml still drops. Currently I'm trying to find the magic addition number that will keep my tank closer to 8.5. During all of this CA never dropped. It actually maintained or increased slightly. Odd as I was only dosing Alk.

I've tried to reposition the power head to add extra flow. This power head seems to be to direct and powerful for my tank as the corals close up and sand bed moves. I tried turning off the power head over the last couple weeks. The cyano (red stuff on the sand I think is cyano) never increased or decreased. However all corals opened more fully and show less signs of stress. I've also added a Santa Monica algae scrubber in the second chamber and moved the skimmer to the third chamber. Awaiting growth in the scrubber. Apparently this can take extra time if the tank has an algae problem. Pretty sure I qualify for this!

Other than algae overtaking my tank, corals have showed decent growth and polyp extension. Decent colors as well. Being the tank seemed to be doing ok other then this aspect the wife and I though adding some fish would be a good idea. We added 4 very small chromis, 1 very small royal gramma, 1 very small fire fish. All fish were slowly drip acclimated for two hours and added into a dark tank where they were allowed to hide in the dark for 12 hours. By the next morning the lights turned back on and I found all new fish swimming openly. All fish in the tank were eating well for the first two days. I had noticed one chromis had a red spot on it's belly just behind it's fins. I suspected it was bruised or something of the like from rough handling. Two days later this fish disappeared and hasn't been seen in days. three days later another chromis dropped. I found this one and removed. Two days later the royal gramma was found dead. I tested for ammonia and found none via API tests. Regardless I performed a 25% water change. I've lost no further fish. I've done some reading in the past week. It seems as though some fish can be affected by high nitrate levels.

I tested my nitrate levels with API. Shows 0-.5. Seems low considering the amount of algae in the tank. I used a Hanna ultra low tester and came up with a reading of 0.88. Obviously this is to high and I plan to perform a water change when finished here. I also plan to remove the ceramic filter rings from the filter box. Reading has told me this can be a source of nitrates if not maintained well.

Tank equipment overview: Fluval M60 34 gallon, 25lbs dry rock now live after 1.5 years, 3" find sand bed. Light is AI 26HD. It hangs over water aprox 13". Lights ramp up and down. Light on at 6:30 and off at 7:30. Running I think at 35% From 11:30-5. Need to get light connected back to current WIFI. Been hesitant as corals are growing well. I can't retain the current lighting spectrum as old WIFI router is long gone. Didn't know this would be a problem. Rock work is open to allow water flow. Return pump is Mighty Jet 8502 set to 1.3. Should be aprox 281GPH. Extra flow comes from Ice cap gyre 1K. Currently turned off as corals seem more open and happy. Skimmer is Tunze DOC 9004 DC plumbed to a C02 scrubber. Before scrubber skimmer was aprox 60%. After scrubber it's now running at 100% due to restriction of scrubber. Added in last 10 days a Santa Monica drop 1.4 algae scrubber. This is running currently 22 hours per day. Mechanical filtration is via all in one media holder. 1st level filter floss changed every 3rd day or so. 2nd level is chemipure. 3rd level has aprox 2 cups of ceramic rings. I plan to remove these with next water change.

Live stock include 1 med sized Bangui cardinal that is 1.2 years in my tank. 2 small chromis, 1 small firefish added in last two weeks. 1 med fire shrimp. 1.2 years in my tank and thriving. Molts about every other week. Aprox 15 assorted snails Had upwards of 45 but most died over the last month. 2 non toxic cucumbers. 1 small pep shrimp. He recently took up residence in the back filter area. Aprox. 100+ tiny serpent stars. These found their way into my tank via a coral. I inspected carefully for pests but clearly missed these. I've added algae barn pods several times however I don't ever see any on the glass.

I apologize for the length of this and applaud anyone who made it to this point. Currently I'm not trying to fix everything at once. I think starting with low ph and alk first makes sense. Can nitrates be consuming alk? I don't feed heavily. Only what fish consume in first 30 seconds or so. This is flake. The cardinal only eats mysis. Again only what is eaten. The cubes are shaved off with an xacto blade. I drop in the froze slivers. Feeding is flake or pellets in the morning. Frozen at night. so two feedings per day.

IMG_1482.JPG IMG_1483.JPG IMG_1484.JPG IMG_1485.JPG
 

TexanCanuck

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 10, 2021
Messages
277
Reaction score
259
Location
Dallas, TX
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Hi there ... sounds like you've tried a lot!

With respect to Nitrates, I always go back to the three basic rules:

1) Don't add nitrates to the tank. This means (A) making sure you don't have high nitrates in your raw water ... use RODI, and (B) don't over-feed or use food high in nitrates

2) Remove waste from the tank quickly before it can break down and create more nitrate. This means (A) clean your filter socks regularly - every 3 days, (B) use a high-quality skimmer that is properly tuned, (C) use activated charcoal to remove dissolved organics, and (D) clean both your tank and sump (and nay other equipment you have in your sump) weekly to keep them free of detritus

3) Export the remaining (inevitable) nitrates from the water. This means (A) use macroalgae to take up excess nitrates, (B) use regular water changes, and (C) cultivate de-nitrifying bacteria through things like carbon dosing.

NOTE - the order these things appear in the list above corresponds to their effectiveness. In other words, relying on de-nitrifying bacteria to remove nitrates is the LEAST effective means of dealing with excess nitrates!

Randy Holmes-Farley has written a series of excellent articles on marine aquarium water chemistry ... I HIGHLY recommend them ... his article on Nitrates can be found here:

 

TexanCanuck

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 10, 2021
Messages
277
Reaction score
259
Location
Dallas, TX
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Moving on to pH ...

You've already hit on the primary suspect for a persistently low pH ... excess CO2. So the scrubber you installed is a great first step.

When trying to tackle pH, it is important to remember that there is an inevitable swing to pH throughout the day ... so to see if you are making progress, compare pH at the same time of day across successive days. Otherwise you may be reacting to inescapable variations that are simply a sign of things working the way they should.

It is important to note that there is nothing "wrong" at a pH of 7.9 ... it is absolutely true that your corals will grow faster if the pH is closer to 8.3, but they will do just fine at 7.9. The real limit is making sure the pH doesn't drop below 7.8 at any point during the 24 hour cycle (usually at night).

If excess CO2 levels are not the problem, then I would suspect it is either something you are dosing to your tank that is causing the problem (ex: Organic carbon addition lowers aquarium pH by producing carbon dioxide), or you have an overly active nitrogen cycle which is generating excess acid.

This is another area where Randy Holmes-Farley has written an excellent article:

 

TexanCanuck

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 10, 2021
Messages
277
Reaction score
259
Location
Dallas, TX
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Finally, with respect to Alkalinity ...

I suspect the simplest answer here is to change your dosing method.

I am not familiar with the "fluval alk supplement" you are using, but the dosing amounts and the rate of change in alkalinity sound odd to me.

In my experience, the BRS additives for 2-part dosing are both the easiest and safest. They also ha ve the distinct added advantage of being the cheapest.

A simple liquid baking soda mixture is all I use. BRS sells a pharmaceutical-grade bulk powder and provides a very easy-to-use calculator to figure out how much to dose daily. You can find their calculator here:


And you can find their additives here:


For a much more detailed discussion of the various dosing methods for alkalinity and how they work, here again my hero Randy Holmes-Farley has written yet another excellent resource:

 

arking_mark

2500 Club Member
View Badges
Joined
Mar 2, 2016
Messages
2,603
Reaction score
1,820
Location
Potomac
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Finally, with respect to Alkalinity ...

I suspect the simplest answer here is to change your dosing method.

I am not familiar with the "fluval alk supplement" you are using, but the dosing amounts and the rate of change in alkalinity sound odd to me.

In my experience, the BRS additives for 2-part dosing are both the easiest and safest. They also ha ve the distinct added advantage of being the cheapest.

A simple liquid baking soda mixture is all I use. BRS sells a pharmaceutical-grade bulk powder and provides a very easy-to-use calculator to figure out how much to dose daily. You can find their calculator here:


And you can find their additives here:


For a much more detailed discussion of the various dosing methods for alkalinity and how they work, here again my hero Randy Holmes-Farley has written yet another excellent resource:


Another option for balanced Alk/Ca dosing that provides a natural pH boost is Kalkwasser. There are also high-pH 2-part solutions.

Kalk + Skimmer + CO2 scrubber took me from 7.8 to 7.9 (daily) to 8.26 to 8.36 (daily).
 

Aqua Man

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Jan 19, 2020
Messages
1,380
Reaction score
1,844
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
was doing water changes about every two weeks.
Ever clean the sand bed during water change?

Yes, that is cyano, bubble alga and some aptasia. I recommend a rip clean.

Corals and coralline algae are using the Alk.
 
OP
OP
flat6guy

flat6guy

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
Jan 30, 2018
Messages
98
Reaction score
50
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Texan,
Thanks first for taking the time to read and offer suggestions.
I change out the filter pad every 2-3 days. They just get tossed as it's filter floss. I'm currently using ceramic rings in the third level of the filter stack. As of this morning I removed 1/2 of what was there and rinsed out the rest in the water removed from the tank during a 10% water change.

I started reading the article on Nitrate by Randy Holmes. This is far more complex than rebuilding an engine!

I will continue with nitrate testing. I will be testing the freshly made saltwater and auto top off containers later this week. I only have the API and hanna nitrate test kits. API is about worthless for anything under 20ppm. I struggle to distinguish color changes. I'll also continue with 10% water changes throughout the week to help reduce nitrates.

Aqua Man,
Thanks to you as well for taking time to read and respond.
I've only recently started vacuuming the sand bed. In my previous tank from 8 years ago I was under the impression that the sand bed was to be left undisturbed. I see there has been some changes of opinion on this. Safe to say the water coming out of the sand bed is pretty dark and gross. I'll continue on working through the sand bed in small patches with each water change.
 

Aqua Man

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Jan 19, 2020
Messages
1,380
Reaction score
1,844
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
This is far more complex than rebuilding an engine!
Yes! There are so many moving parts in an aquarium and most of them we can’t test for or even see with naked eye!!

Couple years ago my tank looked worse then yours! My nitrates are around 20 ppm now. Nyos test. Coral look great.
Your coral look like they are doing well too.
I see you have a good amount of snails. Sometimes when alga gets too long they won’t eat it. Tooth brush and pulling what you can get ahold of will help them. Also if you see a snail on the glass, you can move them to your rock that needs worked on. They can be lazy sometimes!
 
OP
OP
flat6guy

flat6guy

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
Jan 30, 2018
Messages
98
Reaction score
50
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
It dawned on me this morning that I didn't interpret the diluted readings correctly. Instead of 0.88, it's actually 8.88.

I actually had a fair bit more snails but they all went to snail heaven in the last couple of weeks. I found all the shells on the dirty parts of the sand. Assuming the cyano did them in. I'm sure each one just added to my nitrate problem
 

TexanCanuck

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 10, 2021
Messages
277
Reaction score
259
Location
Dallas, TX
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
For test kits, I've gotten a lot of satisfaction out of my Hanna Checkers. Completely eliminates having to interpret color scales ... a digital readout is what I need!

Here's their solution for Nitrate:

 

arking_mark

2500 Club Member
View Badges
Joined
Mar 2, 2016
Messages
2,603
Reaction score
1,820
Location
Potomac
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
For test kits, I've gotten a lot of satisfaction out of my Hanna Checkers. Completely eliminates having to interpret color scales ... a digital readout is what I need!

Here's their solution for Nitrate:


I love Hanna test kits but not this one. Please watch a couple YouTube videos b4 purchasing. I ended up switching to Nyos for Nitrate.
 
OP
OP
flat6guy

flat6guy

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
Jan 30, 2018
Messages
98
Reaction score
50
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Yup that's what I'm using. A LOT of steps but no color comparisons.
 
OP
OP
flat6guy

flat6guy

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
Jan 30, 2018
Messages
98
Reaction score
50
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Quick question. I'm currently running Chemipure in my filter stack. Should I be running carbon in addition to this? How often should this be swapped out? Instructions suggest 2-3 months. Seems a bit long to me considering the amount of nutrients in my tank. Maybe once I get things back to a lower level.
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

Reef Chemist
View Badges
Joined
Sep 5, 2014
Messages
67,160
Reaction score
63,518
Location
Arlington, Massachusetts, United States
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Quick question. I'm currently running Chemipure in my filter stack. Should I be running carbon in addition to this? How often should this be swapped out? Instructions suggest 2-3 months. Seems a bit long to me considering the amount of nutrients in my tank. Maybe once I get things back to a lower level.

I will never use chemipure. To say it kindly, it cannot do what it claims in a marine system.

Like other brands of activated carbon, it helps export organics. For that purpose, i prefer ROX 0.8 carbon, but chemipure will also work.
 
OP
OP
flat6guy

flat6guy

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
Jan 30, 2018
Messages
98
Reaction score
50
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I will never use chemipure. To say it kindly, it cannot do what it claims in a marine system.

Like other brands of activated carbon, it helps export organics. For that purpose, i prefer ROX 0.8 carbon, but chemipure will also work.
Can you tell me how much carbon I should be running in this 34 gallon all in one tank? Also can you tell me how often I should be changing this? Two bags to change out 1/2 at a time or 1 bag changed out all at once.?
 
OP
OP
flat6guy

flat6guy

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
Jan 30, 2018
Messages
98
Reaction score
50
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Also believe it contains GFO media. I do have some phosphates in the tank as the reading is 0.08 with a good amount of algae.
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

Reef Chemist
View Badges
Joined
Sep 5, 2014
Messages
67,160
Reaction score
63,518
Location
Arlington, Massachusetts, United States
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Also believe it contains GFO media. I do have some phosphates in the tank as the reading is 0.08 with a good amount of algae.

Chemipure does not contain GFO. Chemipure elite does.
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

Reef Chemist
View Badges
Joined
Sep 5, 2014
Messages
67,160
Reaction score
63,518
Location
Arlington, Massachusetts, United States
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Can you tell me how much carbon I should be running in this 34 gallon all in one tank? Also can you tell me how often I should be changing this? Two bags to change out 1/2 at a time or 1 bag changed out all at once.?

Changing out half at a time is a good plan. I'm not sure how much GAC is actually in chemipure, but I'd change carbon once a month or so.
 

thatmanMIKEson

Reefing ain't easy$
View Badges
Joined
Jan 10, 2021
Messages
4,979
Reaction score
5,011
Location
florida
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I love Hanna test kits but not this one. Please watch a couple YouTube videos b4 purchasing. I ended up switching to Nyos for Nitrate.
wich checkers do you rec. i have only the alk tester just purchased it so far a few tests and i like it allot, but ive heard mixed reviews on the other models. what is your take on the others?
 

Caring for your picky eaters: What do you feed your finicky fish?

  • Live foods

    Votes: 20 31.3%
  • Frozen meaty foods

    Votes: 52 81.3%
  • Soft pellets

    Votes: 10 15.6%
  • Masstick (or comparable)

    Votes: 7 10.9%
  • Other

    Votes: 3 4.7%
Back
Top