New coral dying in a matter of hours.

[Aidanwolf]

For calcium levels, 380 to 500 is "acceptable" but 420 is the kush. High magnesium will cause the water to be able to hold more calcium which is why I'm suspecting it's really high

The api test kit could be a litte off too.

 

[Mjrenz]

The api test kit could be a litte off too.

Yes it could, usually they aren't off by that much though but it's a definite possibility

 

[DLHDesign]

Lucky I got both decent size frags for 20$ from a local reefer.

This is a long-shot, but any idea what the source parameters were?
It's possible that the source tank had different enough parameters than yours (alk, Ca, Mg, SG, etc.) that it put the corals into shock that was/is hard to recover from. Not much you can do about that if so, unless you are able to return them to something closer to the source tank water. Though even that may not help - the shock (if that's what it is) has happened at this point and it's likely better to just keep moving forward and try your best.
In the future, it's a good idea to temp acclimate for 10-20min (which it sounds like you did something like that) and then drip-acclimate for 30-45min or more (if the param difference is high). This will allow the corals to adjust a bit better. If the source and destination params are highly divergent, then longer drip times may be best. There's usually no rush to transfer corals like there is with fish, so slow (and then slower still) is often best (unless there's a chemical battle or something going on, but that's uncommon).

Did you make the RO/DI water yourself? Or did you procure it? If you made it yourself, did you measure the TDS? If you got it somewhere else; what is the state of other tanks using the water?

 

[Aidanwolf]

This is a long-shot, but any idea what the source parameters were?
It's possible that the source tank had different enough parameters than yours (alk, Ca, Mg, SG, etc.) that it put the corals into shock that was/is hard to recover from. Not much you can do about that if so, unless you are able to return them to something closer to the source tank water. Though even that may not help - the shock (if that's what it is) has happened at this point and it's likely better to just keep moving forward and try your best.
In the future, it's a good idea to temp acclimate for 10-20min (which it sounds like you did something like that) and then drip-acclimate for 30-45min or more (if the param difference is high). This will allow the corals to adjust a bit better. If the source and destination params are highly divergent, then longer drip times may be best. There's usually no rush to transfer corals like there is with fish, so slow (and then slower still) is often best (unless there's a chemical battle or something going on, but that's uncommon).

Did you make the RO/DI water yourself? Or did you procure it? If you made it yourself, did you measure the TDS? If you got it somewhere else; what is the state of other tanks using the water?

I made my own rodi water. The tds measures at 1. I need to replace the di resin sooner or later.

 

[Aidanwolf]

This is a long-shot, but any idea what the source parameters were?
It's possible that the source tank had different enough parameters than yours (alk, Ca, Mg, SG, etc.) that it put the corals into shock that was/is hard to recover from. Not much you can do about that if so, unless you are able to return them to something closer to the source tank water. Though even that may not help - the shock (if that's what it is) has happened at this point and it's likely better to just keep moving forward and try your best.
In the future, it's a good idea to temp acclimate for 10-20min (which it sounds like you did something like that) and then drip-acclimate for 30-45min or more (if the param difference is high). This will allow the corals to adjust a bit better. If the source and destination params are highly divergent, then longer drip times may be best. There's usually no rush to transfer corals like there is with fish, so slow (and then slower still) is often best (unless there's a chemical battle or something going on, but that's uncommon).

Did you make the RO/DI water yourself? Or did you procure it? If you made it yourself, did you measure the TDS? If you got it somewhere else; what is the state of other tanks using the water?

I can message the guy I got the frags from tomorrow. I will post them when I get them .

 

[DLHDesign]

What type of system do you have (e.g.; how many stages and what filters)? How recently have the various filters been changed?
Clayton's 2018 water report indicates the presence of both copper and lead to some levels. This isn't uncommon, really, but you want to make sure to get those out. A properly set up and run RO/DI unit - with effective carbon blocks and membranes - should handle the levels indicated in the report.
If you're getting a reading of 1TDS, it may be that some of these minerals are getting through, however. That can prove problematic even in small concentrations as they can build up over time in the tank as you do water changes and top-offs (unless there's something removing them, of course). If you have a copper test kit, it wouldn't be a bad idea to test your tank water with it. If you have some carbon, then putting it in a bag and adding into a high-flow area of your tank (after rinsing it in RO/DI water to remove any dust) may help in case any of that stuff is in there.

 

[Aidanwolf]

What type of system do you have (e.g.; how many stages and what filters)? How recently have the various filters been changed?
Clayton's 2018 water report indicates the presence of both copper and lead to some levels. This isn't uncommon, really, but you want to make sure to get those out. A properly set up and run RO/DI unit - with effective carbon blocks and membranes - should handle the levels indicated in the report.
If you're getting a reading of 1TDS, it may be that some of these minerals are getting through, however. That can prove problematic even in small concentrations as they can build up over time in the tank as you do water changes and top-offs (unless there's something removing them, of course). If you have a copper test kit, it wouldn't be a bad idea to test your tank water with it. If you have some carbon, then putting it in a bag and adding into a high-flow area of your tank (after rinsing it in RO/DI water to remove any dust) may help in case any of that stuff is in there.

This is the RO/Di system I have.I purchased it February 6 and I have made about 80g. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00204CQF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GzYLCb2XQQAPB
My water comes from a deep well that reads 45tds.
I have a intank media basket with filter floss, carbon pad and a nitrate removing pad.

 

[Aidanwolf]

What type of system do you have (e.g.; how many stages and what filters)? How recently have the various filters been changed?
Clayton's 2018 water report indicates the presence of both copper and lead to some levels. This isn't uncommon, really, but you want to make sure to get those out. A properly set up and run RO/DI unit - with effective carbon blocks and membranes - should handle the levels indicated in the report.
If you're getting a reading of 1TDS, it may be that some of these minerals are getting through, however. That can prove problematic even in small concentrations as they can build up over time in the tank as you do water changes and top-offs (unless there's something removing them, of course). If you have a copper test kit, it wouldn't be a bad idea to test your tank water with it. If you have some carbon, then putting it in a bag and adding into a high-flow area of your tank (after rinsing it in RO/DI water to remove any dust) may help in case any of that stuff is in there.

Also I live in Clayton,GA not Clayton county lol. I appreciate the help though. It is hard to find the water report for here lol Clayton County is the only thing that pops up when you search for it.

 

[DLHDesign]

I live in Clayton,GA

See; and I was going to offer to give you some water to try seeing as how close you are... ;-)

Okay; so here is a report closer to home, though this isn't likely exactly your water as you are on a well and such. At least it doesn't indicate any kind of issues that might be effecting you, for whatever that is worth...
I've never personally dealt with well water, so I'm not sure what the "gotchas" are, sorry.

Since you're running carbon in the tank, it's unlikely that the cause is related to such minerals or chemicals anyways...

 

[Aidanwolf]

See; and I was going to offer to give you some water to try seeing as how close you are... ;-)

Okay; so here is a report closer to home, though this isn't likely exactly your water as you are on a well and such. At least it doesn't indicate any kind of issues that might be effecting you, for whatever that is worth...
I've never personally dealt with well water, so I'm not sure what the "gotchas" are, sorry.

Since you're running carbon in the tank, it's unlikely that the cause is related to such minerals or chemicals anyways...

Thanks lol.

 

[Aidanwolf]

This is a long-shot, but any idea what the source parameters were?
It's possible that the source tank had different enough parameters than yours (alk, Ca, Mg, SG, etc.) that it put the corals into shock that was/is hard to recover from. Not much you can do about that if so, unless you are able to return them to something closer to the source tank water. Though even that may not help - the shock (if that's what it is) has happened at this point and it's likely better to just keep moving forward and try your best.
In the future, it's a good idea to temp acclimate for 10-20min (which it sounds like you did something like that) and then drip-acclimate for 30-45min or more (if the param difference is high). This will allow the corals to adjust a bit better. If the source and destination params are highly divergent, then longer drip times may be best. There's usually no rush to transfer corals like there is with fish, so slow (and then slower still) is often best (unless there's a chemical battle or something going on, but that's uncommon).

Did you make the RO/DI water yourself? Or did you procure it? If you made it yourself, did you measure the TDS? If you got it somewhere else; what is the state of other tanks using the water?

I got the parameters from the guy.
Salinity 1.025
Temp 78
Alkalinity 8.0
Calcium 450
Magnesium 1400
Potassium 400
Nitrate 5
Phosphate 0.03
He said "they vary some but this is where I try to keep it".

 

[IslandLifeReef]

Do you have a LFS that could test your water for you? I think some conformation on those numbers is in order.

 

[Aidanwolf]

Do you have a LFS that could test your water for you? I think some conformation on those numbers is in order.

No, but those are the parameters of the guys water that I bought the coral from. I just ordered the Salifert combo kit.

 

[IslandLifeReef]

No, but those are the parameters of the guys water that I bought the coral from. I just ordered the Salifert combo kit.

I'm worried about your parameters and whether or not they are correct. It's not common that a coral dies that quickly when put into a tank. Have you tested for stray voltage?

 

[Retro Reefer]

Are you testing your fresh mixed water before using it? I can’t find it now but I recently read about someone receiving a batch of coralife Salt mix that was bad.

 

[dadnjesse]

I just tested the water with a refractometer, and the salinity reads 1.025. I am using coralife salt.

I had two refractometers I have been using for years I decided to buy a true saltwater one made by VeeGee, it was reading totally different than my other two, I then bought the Milwaukee digital one that was reading the same as the VeeGee. My other two were reading low and I calibrated them with calibration fluid. Point being I don't trust those cheaper ones.

 

[dputt88]

going back to page 1. is your refractometer calibrated?

 

[DLHDesign]

I got the parameters from the guy.

An instant -1 dKh shift may put the corals into a bit of shock, but they will generally start to recover from that within a day or two (with it taking a while longer - months, perhaps - to get to full acclimation).
Do you have any pictures of the corals before you added them to your tank?

 

[BeejReef]

What salt are you using? That calcium reading seems a bit high for any salt mix i have ever used. Your salinity may be a bit high. Could also be why you have 12.5 dkh.

Also high alkalinity plus low nutrients can lead to coral stress pretty quickly.

I wasn't aware of a link btwn salinity and alkalinity. Explains my phantom Alk drop last week. ty

 

[Dr. Dendrostein]

Hello I just added a zoanthid and I think it was a Cyphastrea to my 32g Biocube that is almost 2 months old. I temp acclimated them and put them in but the Cyphastrea bleached in the matter of hours and the zoanthids are closed. I did tests with the api saltwater master and reef kit. All the levels look normal.

Wonder if you might have stray voltage? Have a ground rod?