New coral dying in a matter of hours.

[Aidanwolf]

Calcium is high too,it took the whole 1ml syringe and an extra 8 drops.

 

[Mjrenz]

What kind of salt are you using again? And did you say that you are using a refractometer to test salinity?

 

[Aidanwolf]

Coral 1

 

[Gareth elliott]

Direct quote from Randy’s article on diy standards.

1. Measure ¼ cup of Morton's Iodized Salt (about 73.1 g)
2. Add 1 teaspoon of salt (making about 79.3 g total salt)
3. Measure the full volume of a plastic 2-L Coke or Diet Coke bottle filled with purified freshwater (about 2104.4 g)
4. Dissolve the total salt (79.3 g) in the total water volume (2104 g) to make an approximately 3.65 weight percent solution of NaCl. The volume of this solution will be slightly larger than the Coke bottle, so dissolve it in another container.

Use this to test your refractometer if you dont have the standard on hand.

Fwiw this costs about the same as just buying a bottle of calibration fluid which will last a long time [emoji23]

 

[Aidanwolf]

What kind of salt are you using again? And did you say that you are using a refractometer to test salinity?

I am using coralife salt. Yes I am using a refractometer.

 

[Aidanwolf]

And here is the zoanthids.

 

[Mjrenz]

If your refractometer is reading correctly you may want to consider switching salt mixes. Are you running carbon incase you do have copper in your tank?

 

[Gareth elliott]

Copper is a strong algaecide i doubt there is copper given those rocks [emoji23]

 

[Aidanwolf]

If your refractometer is reading correctly you may want to consider switching salt mixes. Are you running carbon incase you do have copper in your tank?

Yes I have a carbon filter pad. But all of my clean up crew is doing good so I don't think there is any copper.

 

[Mjrenz]

Copper is a strong algaecide i doubt there is copper given those rocks [emoji23]

Well, anything else unwanted too lol

 

[Mjrenz]

And here is the zoanthids.

They don't look happy but at least they're still alive

 

[Gareth elliott]

Having pictures gives a little better overview here.

The green is cyano its a phosphate sponge ime. Which is throwing off your nutrients testing most likely. Attach a tooth brush to your hose next water change and get as much of that out as possible. Otherwise its just going to keep cycling between dying and making new algae.

Next are you dosing anything? If so stop i see no corraline algae anywhere and with your corals in question they are not using any cal or alk atm.

-Get the lfs to test your salinity even petco will do this for you, see if they will test your other parameters too while there. They may even calibrate your refractometer for you if you ask.

Most want you to stay a hobbyist and buy their things so most are helpful with things like this

 

[Aidanwolf]

Having pictures gives a little better overview here.

The green is cyano its a phosphate sponge ime. Which is throwing off your nutrients testing most likely. Attach a tooth brush to your hose next water change and get as much of that out as possible. Otherwise its just going to keep cycling between dying and making new algae.

Next are you dosing anything? If so stop i see no corraline algae anywhere and with your corals in question they are not using any cal or alk atm.

-Get the lfs to test your salinity even petco will do this for you, see if they will test your other parameters too while there. They may even calibrate your refractometer for you if you ask.

Most want you to stay a hobbyist and buy their things so most are helpful with things like this

I am not dosing anything. The aquarium has only been set up for about two months so I don't believe the coraline algae has had enough time to start growing yet.

 

[Aidanwolf]

Having pictures gives a little better overview here.

The green is cyano its a phosphate sponge ime. Which is throwing off your nutrients testing most likely. Attach a tooth brush to your hose next water change and get as much of that out as possible. Otherwise its just going to keep cycling between dying and making new algae.

Next are you dosing anything? If so stop i see no corraline algae anywhere and with your corals in question they are not using any cal or alk atm.

-Get the lfs to test your salinity even petco will do this for you, see if they will test your other parameters too while there. They may even calibrate your refractometer for you if you ask.

Most want you to stay a hobbyist and buy their things so most are helpful with things like this

Also the phosphates were 0 before any of the alage.

 

[Jon Fishman]

Move them to a decent distance from the light, keep good but non direct flow, and wait and hope. I think they just need time to get settled (for the zoas at least)

 

[MnFish1]

Here are the number for the reef master api results.
Calcium 520
Kh I think 125
Phosphates 0
Nitrate 0.
I did the api saltwater master tests before I got the coral and
There was no nitrates nitrites or ammonia.
The ph was around 8.2 I think.
The Aquarium is a 32g biocube with stock led lights and I do have invertebrates.

seems like nothing but a toxin - or light (and I cant believe that) would affect something 'within hours'. Certainly none of those paramagnets - except - when you say kh I think 125 - without units make me wonder... If other things are living - though- my guess is that your kH is not that far off. 0 nitrates or phosphates will not kill something within hours....

?temp?
?Salinity?

Change in parameters between your tank - and the LFS or wherever you got the stuff?

 

[Aidanwolf]

Move them to a decent distance from the light, keep good but non direct flow, and wait and hope. I think they just need time to get settled (for the zoas at least)

Are the stock biocube lights strong enough to bother the zoanthids?

 

[Jon Fishman]

Are the stock biocube lights strong enough to bother the zoanthids?

Probably not.... but they won't "Die" from lower light.... so I am just thinking less stress, and give them incentive to open.

 

[MnFish1]

For calcium levels, 380 to 500 is "acceptable" but 420 is the kush. High magnesium will cause the water to be able to hold more calcium which is why I'm suspecting it's really high

But isnt it true that that only helps keep CA in solution - it doesnt affect anything - if the Mg its low Ca will precipitate.

 

[MnFish1]

I made my own rodi water. The tds measures at 1. I need to replace the di resin sooner or later.

I would suggest sooner