New corals! Help please!

[lubashmike]

Per @Randy Holmes-Farley the Hanna Copper Checker is not accurate at low ranges. It's accurate around the 2.25 ppm therapeutic dose of copper needed to kill Ich, for example, but the Checker shouldn't be trusted at very low levels.

Here's just one thread where RHF mentioned this:

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/hanna-high-range-copper-checker-questions.738393/post-7700820

I would have never guessed! Is there other things to test with?

 

[Fish Fan]

I would have never guessed! Is there other things to test with?

An ICP test would tell you, but it's not a quick turn around for your situation. There may be other copper test kits to try, I'm not sure, but I know Randy has often said not the trust the Hanna Copper Checker at very low levels. I tagged him above, maybe he'll see that and be able to offer some help here

 

[dwest]

Hanna checker

Hanna checkers are great, but they become less accurate in low ranges of copper. I’m going off a couple years of memory but my checker will read only down to 0.05 - 0.06 ppm. So, if copper levels are zero, my checker will still read some small number around 0.05.

If you are at 0.1 ppm, you likely have elevated copper, but don’t expect to ever to see a number below 0.05.

I have used cuprisorb in the past with success to bring down copper levels. You will need to remove copper from the water, but also copper that is bound to the rocks and sand. So it takes some time.

 

[lubashmike]

Hanna checkers are great, but they become less accurate in low ranges of copper. I’m going off a couple years of memory but my checker will read only down to 0.05 - 0.06 ppm. So, if copper levels are zero, my checker will still read some small number around 0.05.

If you are at 0.1 ppm, you likely have elevated copper, but don’t expect to ever to see a number below 0.05.

I have used cuprisorb in the past with success to bring down copper levels. You will need to remove copper from the water, but also copper that is bound to the rocks and sand. So it takes some time.

So when i tested my fresh mix water this morning and had .01 since that is below .05 i should trust that it’s 0? Just add cuprisorb to get what in there now not?

 

[dwest]

So when i tested my fresh mix water this morning and had .01 since that is below .05 i should trust that it’s 0? Just add cuprisorb to get what in there now not?

I’m making sure that I understand.
Freshly mixed saltwater is 0.01 ppm.
Your tank water is 0.1 ppm.
Is this correct?

 

[lubashmike]

I’m making sure that I understand.
Freshly mixed saltwater is 0.01 ppm.
Your tank water is 0.1 ppm.
Is this correct?

Correct

 

[dwest]

I would assume new saltwater is OK and copper is nearly zero. I would run cuprisorb in the tank if it were mine. Follow instructions but always know that copper is in the water and rocks/sand. As copper leaves the water, it will be release by the rocks back into the water. Copper will lower slowly over time.

I would retest tank water first if you have not yet done that.

Good luck.

 

[lubashmike]

I would assume new saltwater is OK and copper is nearly zero. I would run cuprisorb in the tank if it were mine. Follow instructions but always know that copper is in the water and rocks/sand. As copper leaves the water, it will be release by the rocks back into the water. Copper will lower slowly over time.

I would retest tank water first if you have not yet done that.

Good luck.

Thank you! Retest after the water change? Then add cuprisorb and retest in a week?

 

[lubashmike]

Need to know what type of corals you have.

Corals will not die from Ammonia, fish will.

The corals likely do not like some other parameter like 20% light is way too low. I would not acclimate them depending on the type of coral. Check Nitrates and Phosphates, (if its stony corals like SPS and LPS then Alk, Calcium, & Magnesium) if you know the names that helps.

My guess is you have way too little light. What light are you using.

Here is the lighting i am using it says 9% not even 20% is that too low?

 

[dwest]

Thank you! Retest after the water change? Then add cuprisorb and retest in a week?

I would just make sure tank water copper is truly elevated by testing again before you make any changes. We sometime don’t get great repeatability with test kits for various reasons.

 

[Dom]

That’s a good point! I’ll test a cup straight from the rodi and rule out the

ive learned that it’s not just “watching salinity vs a fresh water” I’m mature enough to know i messed up now i just don’t know what hill to tackle first to get out of the mess as i learn more. The good news is i am learning by fire drill

That is a nice looking tank. I particularly like your rock work.

Were it my tank, I would increase the lighting. Some of your coral seems to be stretching, which usually means that they are trying to get more light.

Your parameters overall don't look bad, but do need to be dialed in a bit more:

Ph- 7.8 -
A bit low. Not the end of the world, but I would try to get it up about to about 8.2

Salt-1.024 -
Also a bit low. Low salinity makes corals very unhappy, but, it would have to be lower than this.

Temp 80.6 -
This is high. I keep my tank at 75 degrees

Calcium- 451 -
Good number!

Alk- 20.0 -
Is it really this high? Maybe a testing error? I'd confirm.

Phosphate- .18
This is a bit high and likely to continue rising unless steps are taken.

Ammonia 1.27( which is down from 1.36 yesterday)
This should not be at all. Consider a water change.

NitRATES- 75 (which is up from 42 yesterday) -
Not the end of the world, but should come down.

Copper - .1
How do you have copper in your tank; did you treat for disease?

I feel regular, weekly water changes would go a long way in turning things around.

 

[Marco_99]

Here is the lighting i am using it says 9% not even 20% is that too low?

Yes. I would get the lights to about 45-50% and move your frag racks lower. I am not familiar with your light and the intensity levels and par output. You should be able to find other systems and data online showing what they’ll put out at what height and depth of tank. Research the needs for the corals you have so you have a general idea of what you’re dealing with. What most do is put their new frags on the sand bed for a week and slowly move them up over a period of few weeks time before placing them or letting them grow out on a frag rack. Overtime you will get the ability to be able to read your corals and how they react. Any adjustments with corals takes a lot of time.

 

[lubashmike]

That is a nice looking tank. I particularly like your rock work.

Were it my tank, I would increase the lighting. Some of your coral seems to be stretching, which usually means that they are trying to get more light.

Your parameters overall don't look bad, but do need to be dialed in a bit more:

Ph- 7.8 -
A bit low. Not the end of the world, but I would try to get it up about to about 8.2

Salt-1.024 -
Also a bit low. Low salinity makes corals very unhappy, but, it would have to be lower than this.

Temp 80.6 -
This is high. I keep my tank at 75 degrees

Calcium- 451 -
Good number!

Alk- 20.0 -
Is it really this high? Maybe a testing error? I'd confirm.

Phosphate- .18
This is a bit high and likely to continue rising unless steps are taken.

Ammonia 1.27( which is down from 1.36 yesterday)
This should not be at all. Consider a water change.

NitRATES- 75 (which is up from 42 yesterday) -
Not the end of the world, but should come down.

Copper - .1
How do you have copper in your tank; did you treat for disease?

I feel regular, weekly water changes would go a long way in turning things around.

Thank you was going for a layered approach

20 alk could have been in error because i was at 8.9 on 3/2 and 8.5 on 3/5

My salinity has been 1.025 daily except for yesterday it went to 1.024

My plan is to do a 15 gal water change today

To be honest i have no idea how copper got in

 

[lubashmike]

Yes. I would get the lights to about 45-50% and move your frag racks lower. I am not familiar with your light and the intensity levels and par output. You should be able to find other systems and data online showing what they’ll put out at what height and depth of tank. Research the needs for the corals you have so you have a general idea of what you’re dealing with. What most do is put their new frags on the sand bed for a week and slowly move them up over a period of few weeks time before placing them or letting them grow out on a frag rack. Overtime you will get the ability to be able to read your corals and how they react. Any adjustments with corals takes a lot of time.

I am just concerned about the Kenya tree that is completely laying down and the pulsing xenias that are more just blobs at the moment

 

[Marco_99]

I’m not going to lie to you but you are more than likely going to suffer some casualties on this first run of corals. Now killing a pulsing Xenia … Move what you can down,turn your light percentage up a bit and leave it alone ,do a water change, and spectate. Was it started with all new rock and substrate? What or how did you even get involved in a copper tester to begin with? And some Hanna tests require pressing or press and hold for some actions, just be aware of that on the various testers. Remember to be as consistent as possible in your water changes meaning duration and volume. Marine tanks love stability in every way

 

[lubashmike]

I’m not going to lie to you but you are more than likely going to suffer some casualties on this first run of corals. Now killing a pulsing Xenia … Move what you can down,turn your light percentage up a bit and leave it alone ,do a water change, and spectate. Was it started with all new rock and substrate? What or how did you even get involved in a copper tester to begin with? And some Hanna tests require pressing or press and hold for some actions, just be aware of that on the various testers. Remember to be as consistent as possible in your water changes meaning duration and volume. Marine tanks love stability in every way

I figured i lose some but is there anything i should remove as there is no hope? Like the xenis

 

[Evil1]

Hello! Thank you for the help!
I don’t know what i added except the pulsing xenias that are now not pulsing and the Kenya trees that are falling over the rest are just cool things i saw at the show

My perimeters are as follows all checked with Hanna checkers
Ph- 7.8
Salt-1.024
Temp 80.6
Calcium- 451
Alk- 20.0
Phosphate- .18
Ammonia 1.27( which is down from 1.36 yesterday)
NitRATES- 75 (which is up from 42 yesterday)
Copper - .1

It is a Red Sea 200 so 43 display and 10 sump
Reef mat collecting waste and protein skimmer seems to be doing good cup fills every 2 days and is a dark tan
Red Sea 115 i have it set to 20% for 6 hours a day right now

Everything looks sad and i truly don’t know what to do.
I got my all for reef today but i dont know if adding that is going to help
I did add 5 drops of iodine the past 3 days

20%? I suggest you set it to 20k 80% blue 30% white and run it 12 hours a day not including moon light if you are using it.

 

[lubashmike]

20%? I suggest you set it to 20k 80% blue 30% white and run it 12 hours a day not including moon light if you are using it.

Like this?

 

[Dom]

Thank you was going for a layered approach

20 alk could have been in error because i was at 8.9 on 3/2 and 8.5 on 3/5

My salinity has been 1.025 daily except for yesterday it went to 1.024

My plan is to do a 15 gal water change today

To be honest i have no idea how copper got in

You have approximately 50 gallons of volume. A 20% water change (10 gallons) on a weekly basis would be plenty.

But be consistent and faithful to the water change for the next 4-6 weeks. I think you will see an improvement.

 

[lubashmike]

You have approximately 50 gallons of volume. A 20% water change (10 gallons) on a weekly basis would be plenty.

But be consistent and faithful to the water change for the next 4-6 weeks. I think you will see an improvement.

Okay i can do every sunday for the next 6 weeks i just did the sump drained it and cleaned out the sand and then refilled