New here!

[Toadstool92]

Hey guys. I've been frequenting this site anonymously since the end of August and finally decided to make an account. I've been doing research like crazy and I feel like I'm ready to take the plunge in this hobby. I've had freshwater tanks for about a year, but I honestly have always been more drawn to the saltwater aquariums.

So, I mostly want to focus on corals. However, I would like to also have fish and hopefully a nem.

I'm still not 100% sure how everything works, but taking in as much information as I can through my research. I feel like once I actually start physically doing things with the tank I will have a better grasp on the setups with the plumbing, dosing, powerheads, etc.

I'd like to have the Red Sea Reefer 250. I think the tank size is perfect for a starter. My only concern with all this equipment is the cost, but I don't want to get cheap equipment either so its like a double edge sword. I'll take any input on cheaper but still great equipment!

This is my initial equipment list and the estimated cost:

Red Sea Reef 250 - Comes with Sump and ATO I believe - $1350
2x Hydra 26 - $734 - Doesn't come with the tank so have to buy lights separate
2x Hydra Fixtures - $158
Quantum Nyos 120 Pro Skim - $400
2x Vortech MP 10 Powerhead - $500
Vectra M1 Return Pump - $375
Coral Box Wifi Dosing - $200
RO/DI MaxCap 90 GPD from Spectrapure - $280

Then of course the Heater, taking suggestions. Refractometer, TDS Meter, SW Test kits, Dosing Elements, Rock (probably going to go all dry because of the significant cheaper cost), Sand, Red Sea Reef Salt. I think thats everything. If I'm leaving out other things please let me know!

Also need a QT - I'll just use a 20G long, heater, cover, AquaClear HOB, cheap light, pvc pipe.

In all, I'm looking for advice on how I could maybe do things a little cheaper if possible. The startup definitely seems to be the most expensive part because you need well EVERYTHING haha. Let me know. Thanks!

Fun fact - Toadstools are my favorite. Particularly the Tyree. It's so beautiful!

 

[reef lover]

#Welcometor2r !!

 

[clown and friends]

Honestly first place I would cut cost is your RO/DI unit! can certainly get a cheaper ($150 range) multi stage which will work great!

 

[Billldg]

Welcome to R2R!!!

 

[MTBake]

Welcome to R2R:)

Good luck with your build!

 

[Flippers4pups]

Welcome to Reef2reef!

 

[clown and friends]

Just wanted to give you an example, 100 gpd with tons of glowing reviews for $160 https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/4-stage-value-ro-di-system-bulk-reef-supply.html

 

[cracker]

hey Toadstool, Welcome to R2R. Keep us informed on your tank !

 

[KrisReef]

Toadstools can be beautiful.
Welcome to Reef@ Reef!

 

[hdsoftail1065]

Welcome to R2R!!! I was just looking earlier and it looks like Petcos $1 per gallon sale is next month, that will save a little on a qt. Salifert, Red Sea, and some of the Hanna testers are good test kits. Several places online that have great prices on your dry rock. It sounds like you are doing your homework.

 

[ibondy]

Welcome to R2R! I would look at Coral Box pumps to save some $$$. Excellent service and US based warranty for significantly less.

 

[Toadstool92]

Just wanted to give you an example, 100 gpd with tons of glowing reviews for $160 https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/4-stage-value-ro-di-system-bulk-reef-supply.html

Thanks that saves $130ish. I'm getting a little crap from my boyfriend because of the startup cost haha. Its looking like $4000 for only the major equipment haha. I'm high maintenance :p.

Welcome to R2R!!! I was just looking earlier and it looks like Petcos $1 per gallon sale is next month, that will save a little on a qt. Salifert, Red Sea, and some of the Hanna testers are good test kits. Several places online that have great prices on your dry rock. It sounds like you are doing your homework.

Thanks for the heads up. I currently have a 20G long that hasn't been used for anything yet, but now that will have a new purpose haha. I have another 10G and 5G that had freshwater setups that I was considering using for a fuge. I don't mind having some of the equipment to the side of the tank or maybe even under another stand next to it.

 

[clown and friends]

Thanks that saves $130ish. I'm getting a little crap from my boyfriend because of the startup cost haha. Its looking like $4000 for only the major equipment haha. I'm high maintenance :p.



Thanks for the heads up. I currently have a 20G long that hasn't been used for anything yet, but now that will have a new purpose haha. I have another 10G and 5G that had freshwater setups that I was considering using for a fuge. I don't mind having some of the equipment to the side of the tank or maybe even under another stand next to it.

$130 toward livestock the way I see it!

 

[Reefpuck]

Welcome!

Could go with 2 Jebao PP powerheads instead. I think they're great for the price.

 

[Toadstool92]

Welcome!

Could go with 2 Jebao PP powerheads instead. I think they're great for the price.

Oh wow! Those are super affordable! I would definitely prefer that price, especially when first starting out. Then later on if needed I can upgrade. That's just another part of this hobby anyway (at least thats how it seems) adding upgrades constantly. Now I'm not entirely sure which one to go with? PP-8 or PP-15?

 

[Reefpuck]

Oh wow! Those are super affordable! I would definitely prefer that price, especially when first starting out. Then later on if needed I can upgrade. That's just another part of this hobby anyway (at least thats how it seems) adding upgrades constantly. Now I'm not entirely sure which one to go with? PP-8 or PP-15?

I got two PP8s in my 90g...and they're maxing out at about 70% I believe. I had the PP15s prior but they're way too much power. So I'd say the PP8s would work.

Have had them for about a year now...and they're still going strong. I have them tied into my apex too.

 

[Toadstool92]

I got two PP8s in my 90g...and they're maxing out at about 70% I believe. I had the PP15s prior but they're way too much power. So I'd say the PP8s would work.

Have had them for about a year now...and they're still going strong. I have them tied into my apex too.

Thanks!

Awesome that they can be tied into the Apex. Based on startup costs I'm most likely going to go with the Jebao powerheads, also looking into the Jebao DCP-5000 Return and the Jebao Auto Dosing DP-4. The prices are great and reviews seem decent for all.

 

[RJinPV]

Hey guys. I've been frequenting this site anonymously since the end of August and finally decided to make an account. I've been doing research like crazy and I feel like I'm ready to take the plunge in this hobby. I've had freshwater tanks for about a year, but I honestly have always been more drawn to the saltwater aquariums.

So, I mostly want to focus on corals. However, I would like to also have fish and hopefully a nem.

I'm still not 100% sure how everything works, but taking in as much information as I can through my research. I feel like once I actually start physically doing things with the tank I will have a better grasp on the setups with the plumbing, dosing, powerheads, etc.

I'd like to have the Red Sea Reefer 250. I think the tank size is perfect for a starter. My only concern with all this equipment is the cost, but I don't want to get cheap equipment either so its like a double edge sword. I'll take any input on cheaper but still great equipment!

This is my initial equipment list and the estimated cost:

Red Sea Reef 250 - Comes with Sump and ATO I believe - $1350
2x Hydra 26 - $734 - Doesn't come with the tank so have to buy lights separate
2x Hydra Fixtures - $158
Quantum Nyos 120 Pro Skim - $400
2x Vortech MP 10 Powerhead - $500
Vectra M1 Return Pump - $375
Coral Box Wifi Dosing - $200
RO/DI MaxCap 90 GPD from Spectrapure - $280

Then of course the Heater, taking suggestions. Refractometer, TDS Meter, SW Test kits, Dosing Elements, Rock (probably going to go all dry because of the significant cheaper cost), Sand, Red Sea Reef Salt. I think thats everything. If I'm leaving out other things please let me know!

Also need a QT - I'll just use a 20G long, heater, cover, AquaClear HOB, cheap light, pvc pipe.

In all, I'm looking for advice on how I could maybe do things a little cheaper if possible. The startup definitely seems to be the most expensive part because you need well EVERYTHING haha. Let me know. Thanks!

Fun fact - Toadstools are my favorite. Particularly the Tyree. It's so beautiful!

Welcome to R2R! I started about 4 years ago with a 55 Gal tank. Here is what I learned:
Get quality now because you'll just wind up paying for stuff twice, or maybe three times
Good that you picked a glass tank. I hate my acrylic tank because it is too hard to keep algae off it without scratching it.
Consider your house temperature in the warm weather. If it gets above 80 deg F in the summer inside the house you will likely need a chiller. At least plan for a chiller in your tank placement. It put mine 1 inch too close to a wall and had to add an undersized chiller later on because space would not allow a proper chiller. Fans might work with a glass tank because it conducts heat better than acrylic and will stay closer to room temperature
I use Red Sea and Salifert test kits for calcium, hardness and magnesium. API test kits are good for nitrite and ammonia which you may never use again after the tank cycles. For phosphate I use a Hanna phosphate tester. If I had a chance to do it over I would have gotten the Ultra Low Range Phosphate Hanna tester.
Bulk Reef Supply (BRS) does some great videos There are a few on heaters with some ideas about redundancy and test results. They settled on Finnex and Cobalt neo therms. The one thing I don't like about my Cobalt Neotherm is that it has set points every 2 degrees and not 1 degree. I can't set my tank to 79 deg, just 78 or 80. Otherwise it has been very accurate.
Get a good thermometer, or use 2 to 3 cheap glass ones. I started with a cheap digital one and it was off 6 degs and I nearly killed my first fish. I bought cheap undersized circulator pumps, then bought a Tunze 6055 then a Maspect Gyre. The Gyre became noisy and lost flow rate with age. The Tunze does not have built in programs. I now wish I bought two MP10s
My wet live rock came with asteria (spelling?) starfish and bristle worms. My next tank will be dry rock to avoid hitchhikers
An ATO and dosing system is not necessary but nice. I don't have them so I have a 15 minute daily routine top off the tank and dose. It keeps me engaged but is more difficult when I leave the tank to a pet sitter.
You could save money on the return pump. I have a Sicce pump that is about $200 cheaper than the Vortech. I am not sure what advantages a DC controlled return pump can provide. Sicce is a well regarded and reliable brand
For lights you might consider 4 AI primes. It is a little more money but could provide more even coverage. Look for recent BRS Youtube videos and this concept. It seems to provide more even PAR coverage and less shadowing. I have two AI primes and 2 T5s. They work well. AI stands behind their stuff. Others on R2R have talked about Reefkeeper lights but I don't know much about them.

Good luck!

 

[RJinPV]

Welcome to R2R! I started about 4 years ago with a 55 Gal tank. Here is what I learned:
Get quality now because you'll just wind up paying for stuff twice, or maybe three times
Good that you picked a glass tank. I hate my acrylic tank because it is too hard to keep algae off it without scratching it.
Consider your house temperature in the warm weather. If it gets above 80 deg F in the summer inside the house you will likely need a chiller. At least plan for a chiller in your tank placement. It put mine 1 inch too close to a wall and had to add an undersized chiller later on because space would not allow a proper chiller. Fans might work with a glass tank because it conducts heat better than acrylic and will stay closer to room temperature
I use Red Sea and Salifert test kits for calcium, hardness and magnesium. API test kits are good for nitrite and ammonia which you may never use again after the tank cycles. For phosphate I use a Hanna phosphate tester. If I had a chance to do it over I would have gotten the Ultra Low Range Phosphate Hanna tester.
Bulk Reef Supply (BRS) does some great videos There are a few on heaters with some ideas about redundancy and test results. They settled on Finnex and Cobalt neo therms. The one thing I don't like about my Cobalt Neotherm is that it has set points every 2 degrees and not 1 degree. I can't set my tank to 79 deg, just 78 or 80. Otherwise it has been very accurate.
Get a good thermometer, or use 2 to 3 cheap glass ones. I started with a cheap digital one and it was off 6 degs and I nearly killed my first fish. I bought cheap undersized circulator pumps, then bought a Tunze 6055 then a Maspect Gyre. The Gyre became noisy and lost flow rate with age. The Tunze does not have built in programs. I now wish I bought two MP10s
My wet live rock came with asteria (spelling?) starfish and bristle worms. My next tank will be dry rock to avoid hitchhikers
An ATO and dosing system is not necessary but nice. I don't have them so I have a 15 minute daily routine top off the tank and dose. It keeps me engaged but is more difficult when I leave the tank to a pet sitter.
You could save money on the return pump. I have a Sicce pump that is about $200 cheaper than the Vortech. I am not sure what advantages a DC controlled return pump can provide. Sicce is a well regarded and reliable brand
For lights you might consider 4 AI primes. It is a little more money but could provide more even coverage. Look for recent BRS Youtube videos and this concept. It seems to provide more even PAR coverage and less shadowing. I have two AI primes and 2 T5s. They work well. AI stands behind their stuff. Others on R2R have talked about Reefkeeper lights but I don't know much about them.

Good luck!

Sorry, I meant Reefbreeders lights.

 

[Toadstool92]

Welcome to R2R! I started about 4 years ago with a 55 Gal tank. Here is what I learned:
Get quality now because you'll just wind up paying for stuff twice, or maybe three times
Good that you picked a glass tank. I hate my acrylic tank because it is too hard to keep algae off it without scratching it.
Consider your house temperature in the warm weather. If it gets above 80 deg F in the summer inside the house you will likely need a chiller. At least plan for a chiller in your tank placement. It put mine 1 inch too close to a wall and had to add an undersized chiller later on because space would not allow a proper chiller. Fans might work with a glass tank because it conducts heat better than acrylic and will stay closer to room temperature
I use Red Sea and Salifert test kits for calcium, hardness and magnesium. API test kits are good for nitrite and ammonia which you may never use again after the tank cycles. For phosphate I use a Hanna phosphate tester. If I had a chance to do it over I would have gotten the Ultra Low Range Phosphate Hanna tester.
Bulk Reef Supply (BRS) does some great videos There are a few on heaters with some ideas about redundancy and test results. They settled on Finnex and Cobalt neo therms. The one thing I don't like about my Cobalt Neotherm is that it has set points every 2 degrees and not 1 degree. I can't set my tank to 79 deg, just 78 or 80. Otherwise it has been very accurate.
Get a good thermometer, or use 2 to 3 cheap glass ones. I started with a cheap digital one and it was off 6 degs and I nearly killed my first fish. I bought cheap undersized circulator pumps, then bought a Tunze 6055 then a Maspect Gyre. The Gyre became noisy and lost flow rate with age. The Tunze does not have built in programs. I now wish I bought two MP10s
My wet live rock came with asteria (spelling?) starfish and bristle worms. My next tank will be dry rock to avoid hitchhikers
An ATO and dosing system is not necessary but nice. I don't have them so I have a 15 minute daily routine top off the tank and dose. It keeps me engaged but is more difficult when I leave the tank to a pet sitter.
You could save money on the return pump. I have a Sicce pump that is about $200 cheaper than the Vortech. I am not sure what advantages a DC controlled return pump can provide. Sicce is a well regarded and reliable brand
For lights you might consider 4 AI primes. It is a little more money but could provide more even coverage. Look for recent BRS Youtube videos and this concept. It seems to provide more even PAR coverage and less shadowing. I have two AI primes and 2 T5s. They work well. AI stands behind their stuff. Others on R2R have talked about Reefkeeper lights but I don't know much about them.

Good luck!

Thanks for the input! Yeah thats kind of what I was going for, get better quality now, but the cost right now all at once I think is just too much. So I'm most likely going to go with cheaper Jebao power heads. I'll check out the Sicce return pump! Im probably going to just go with the Hydra lights since they would be cheaper.

Whats your daily dosing process like? The 250 seems to come with a small ATO, 2.1G reservoir to be exact. Probably stick with that for now as well.

I don't think I will have to worry about needing a chiller. Live in Maine and it does get warm and humid here, but will have an AC in the living area where the tank will be so that should help keep it cooled if needed.

I'll definitely going to do dry rock, was looking at BRS Reef Saver Dry Live Rock to be exact. Much cheaper and the worry of hitch hikers is basically nonexistent! Haha. I do enjoy the coralline appearance though, I imagine that takes a while to take form?