New to SW, lighting/flow/parameter/testing ?'s [Corals looking bad]

[coronarex]

I added a couple new corals to my tank. it is a 30L by IM. It has been up for several months. Everything was doing great as Ive been trying to get the lighting and flow dialed in. still not sure of that. My hammer coral was doing great, blooming like a flower, to the point where I couldn't see the base of the heads. It has retracted greatly and the polyps are looking far less full. I moved it bc it was getting pounded by the flow, which wasn't high at all(40%). I was thinking about moving it to the far right away from the MP10. Also my toadstools polyps are barely visible, before they were always out and long. Even my gsp growth has slowed. Leather tree is doing great. All of my zoas are open. Mushrooms are looking juicy too. I do alot of research, i read alot on here, i even bought a book lol, I watch a ton of youtube also lol. i think im on the right path, and i think the corals that I do have aren't that difficult. I spend alot of time trying to make sure everything is perfect yet im frustrated a great deal of the time. Today I woke up to a slight cloudy haze in the water. Any help would be appreciated.
API saltwater master kit
Ammonia-0
Nitrate-5-10
Phos-0
ph-7.8-8.2? This may be greater. Not sure how to view, some suggest holding the test tube against the card, others suggest looking down the tube, both give different results.
Salinity- 1.024? I use a refractometer. As soon as I close the lid and look the line is crisp and distinct, then slowly fades to 1.023-1.022.
Red Sea Foundation Pro
Alk-11.2
Cal-425
Mg-1300
Temp-79.5
Radion XR30w G3 Pro -9.5 inches above the surface of the water
MP10wES- left
Jebao RW4- right
Also i do have an ATO.
Current lighting schedule.

 

[Brew12]

I added a couple new corals to my tank. it is a 30L by IM. It has been up for several months. Everything was doing great as Ive been trying to get the lighting and flow dialed in. still not sure of that. My hammer coral was doing great, blooming like a flower, to the point where I couldn't see the base of the heads. It has retracted greatly and the polyps are looking far less full. I moved it bc it was getting pounded by the flow, which wasn't high at all(40%). I was thinking about moving it to the far right away from the MP10. Also my toadstools polyps are barely visible, before they were always out and long. Even my gsp growth has slowed. Leather tree is doing great. All of my zoas are open. Mushrooms are looking juicy too. I do alot of research, i read alot on here, i even bought a book lol, I watch a ton of youtube also lol. i think im on the right path, and i think the corals that I do have aren't that difficult. I spend alot of time trying to make sure everything is perfect yet im frustrated a great deal of the time. Today I woke up to a slight cloudy haze in the water. Any help would be appreciated.
API saltwater master kit
Ammonia-0
Nitrate-5-10
Phos-0
ph-7.8-8.2? This may be greater. Not sure how to view, some suggest holding the test tube against the card, others suggest looking down the tube, both give different results.
Salinity- 1.024? I use a refractometer. As soon as I close the lid and look the line is crisp and distinct, then slowly fades to 1.023-1.022.
Red Sea Foundation Pro
Alk-11.2
Cal-425
Mg-1300
Temp-79.5
Radion XR30w G3 Pro -9.5 inches above the surface of the water
MP10wES- left
Jebao RW4- right
Also i do have an ATO.
Current lighting schedule.

It could be low phosphates. You aren't running GFO, are you?

 

[coronarex]

It could be low phosphates. You aren't running GFO, are you?

Dont I want low phosphates?? I am running either chemi-pure blue or elite, forgot which one in my intank media basket.

 

[Brew12]

Dont I want low phosphates?? I am running either chemi-pure blue or elite, forgot which one in my intank media basket.

Low, yes. You do not want 0 phosphates. Everything needs phosphate to grow. I killed all my starter corals by starving them of phosphate by running GFO when it wasn't needed.

 

[Brew12]

I would pull that stuff out. If you want to run filtration along those lines, stick with GAC. I would only run that stuff if you have a high phosphate issue.

I'm not saying it is definitely your problem, only that it will eliminate one possibility.

Good reading.
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-09/rhf/index.php

 

[coronarex]

Low, yes. You do not want 0 phosphates. Everything needs phosphate to grow. I killed all my starter corals by starving them of phosphate by running GFO when it wasn't needed.

Okay, got it! Makes sense. something i didnt know. I am also running purigen. also waht is GAC? you are right i prob dont need either. I have two clowns and I feed sparsely. What would you recommend? Remove both or which? Thank you friend. Hows your build going?, i check out your link, tank is huggggeeee.

 

[Brew12]

Okay, got it! Makes sense. something i didnt know. I am also running purigen. also waht is GAC? you are right i prob dont need either. I have two clowns and I feed sparsely. What would you recommend? Remove both or which? Thank you friend. Hows your build going?, i check out your link, tank is huggggeeee.

I would remove both. One of my hardest lessons was to let my tank tell me what I need to do. I kept trying to do what I think tanks should need. My first tank strongly disagreed with me.

And thanks! Loving the new system! And yes, the only chemical filtration I run is GAC.

 

[Colin Levy]

I ran into that problem as well. I was running chemipure elite (which is GFO and Carbon) and Purigen in both my media baskets on my IM25 when i first started it and wasn't feeding much at all. It was too clean.

Ended up removing all of it and only keeping a single bag of Purigen.

My phosphates raised up from 0 to about 0.10. I added back in a bag of chemipure elite and it now sits right at 0.03 and am happy with that.

 

[tankstudy]

I'd get a par meter and check your par ratings.

 

[Luno]

Hope your enjoying your first sw experience for the most part. And don't worry everybody experiences the ups and downs of the hobby no matter how much experience and expertise you have. Couple of ideas.

- your API test kits are beginner kits which are fine when your cycling your tank. Other than that I just don't trust them. I would put replacing API test kits with better Red Sea or salifert kits high on your to do list.

- phosphates with most kits are not gonna be accurately depicted, the best way to test phosphates is with a Hanna checker.

- I don't believe your phosphates are 0, and I may not be the quickest to suggest your phosphates are he problem.

- any other recent changes in the tank in say the last month other than new editions?

- some of the corals you have especially the toadstool engage quiet heavily in chemical warfare and in a small tank be aware that it may upset other corals.

- flow that mp10 since your using Liters for your tank is rated for about 6000L/H at 40% 2400L/H is roughly 80 times turn over which is very high for the corals you have. I would consider dialing it back a bit. Also just read you have a jebao rw-4 aswell. I'd say you way way too much flow for your coral type. May not be your problem but it won't be helping either.

- you don't have an auto how much is your salinity swinging how much and how often are topping up manually with fresh water?

 

[coronarex]

I would remove both. One of my hardest lessons was to let my tank tell me what I need to do. I kept trying to do what I think tanks should need. My first tank strongly disagreed with me.

And thanks! Loving the new system! And yes, the only chemical filtration I run is GAC.

Thanks, I am definitely doing some unnesscary things

I ran into that problem as well. I was running chemipure elite (which is GFO and Carbon) and Purigen in both my media baskets on my IM25 when i first started it and wasn't feeding much at all. It was too clean.

Ended up removing all of it and only keeping a single bag of Purigen.

My phosphates raised up from 0 to about 0.10. I added back in a bag of chemipure elite and it now sits right at 0.03 and am happy with that.

I'll remove both and see how things respond. Thank you!

 

[Luno]

Also if it was me I would be running carbon with those corals, maybe not necessary for the chemi blue (I still don't think phosphates are your problem) but definitely some carbon so incause phosphates are swap the chemi blue with regular activated carbon

 

[coronarex]

I'd get a par meter and check your par ratings.

If the gov't doesnt F me this tax season perhaps Ill look into getting one. It would def give me more info about the light output. Its just not something I really think i need atm, I have all soft corals, with the exception of the hammer and the monti. Will look into though. thanks friend

 

[coronarex]

Hope your enjoying your first sw experience for the most part. And don't worry everybody experiences the ups and downs of the hobby no matter how much experience and expertise you have. Couple of ideas.

- your API test kits are beginner kits which are fine when your cycling your tank. Other than that I just don't trust them. I would put replacing API test kits with better Red Sea or salifert kits high on your to do list.

- phosphates with most kits are not gonna be accurately depicted, the best way to test phosphates is with a Hanna checker.

- I don't believe your phosphates are 0, and I may not be the quickest to suggest your phosphates are he problem.

- any other recent changes in the tank in say the last month other than new editions?

- some of the corals you have especially the toadstool engage quiet heavily in chemical warfare and in a small tank be aware that it may upset other corals.

- flow that mp10 since your using Liters for your tank is rated for about 6000L/H at 40% 2400L/H is roughly 80 times turn over which is very high for the corals you have. I would consider dialing it back a bit. Also just read you have a jebao rw-4 aswell. I'd say you way way too much flow for your coral type. May not be your problem but it won't be helping either.

- you don't have an auto how much is your salinity swinging how much and how often are topping up manually with fresh water?

I def agree about the test kits, that I why i recently picked up red sea foundation pro. I will def look into the salifert phos test kit to get a better depiction. hannas are like a gazillion $, so will pick that up later down the road. I think I have given the corals enough space so they dont bother each other but you tell me, in the photo the toadstool is on the rock, hard to see bc the clown to the right is blocking it in the photo. only change i did was flipflop the leather tree and hammer placement. that and i brought the chemi pure from the bottom section of the medai basket to the top. I also agree on the flow. I did turn the mp10 down to 35. Should i remove the jebao? and move the hammer to the far right ? No real fluctuations in sal. The refractometer is spot on. and I do have a ato and use rodi water. I read that is super important. thanks for your help, i appreciate more than you know!

 

[Brew12]

I def agree about the test kits, that I why i recently picked up red sea foundation pro. I will def look into the salifert phos test kit to get a better depiction. hannas are like a gazillion $, so will pick that up later down the road. I think I have given the corals enough space so they dont bother each other but you tell me, in the photo the toadstool is on the rock, hard to see bc the clown to the right is blocking it in the photo. only change i did was flipflop the leather tree and hammer placement. that and i brought the chemi pure from the bottom section of the medai basket to the top. I also agree on the flow. I did turn the mp10 down to 35. Should i remove the jebao? and move the hammer to the far right ? No real fluctuations in sal. The refractometer is spot on. and I do have a ato and use rodi water. I read that is super important. thanks for your help, i appreciate more than you know!

Before you buy a Hanna (I have 2 of them, LR phosphate and ULR Phosphorus) I almost never use mine. I use a salifert test as a way to make sure I have some, but not too much. I encourage you to read this.
https://battlecorals.com/blogs/blog/185869191-phosphate-ramblings

 

[coronarex]

Before you buy a Hanna (I have 2 of them, LR phosphate and ULR Phosphorus) I almost never use mine. I use a salifert test as a way to make sure I have some, but not too much. I encourage you to read this.
https://battlecorals.com/blogs/blog/185869191-phosphate-ramblings

Think you for the read. It was very enlightening. I definitely need to relax and let my tank do its thing. I will remove those as you suggest and let my tank tell me what it needs. Thanks again for your help