Nick's 360 Gallons Reef Tank with Angels

[this is me]

;Woot;Woot;Woot

Another regal, joculator, bandit and conspic. Trying to source an interruptus for s decent price.

Thanks

 

[MattJS]

Really like this tank. It’d be neat to get a large enough tank to keep a lot of angels like this. Rare angels or not, I’d fill it up.

 

[Coral Keeper]

Incredible tank!!!
What do you run your parameters at? ALK, CAL, MAG, NO3, PO4, S.G., pH, temperature? Do you run carbon and/or GFO?
What skimmer do you run? What other filtration do you run? Filter socks, etc?
Also, what ballast do you run on your Radiums? Magnetic or electronic? Or?

 

[this is me]

I honestly haven't checked my parameters for awhile. But a couple weeks ago
ALK was 8dKH
CA=450mm.
MG last measurement was at 1400ppm.
Nitrate=High
PO4=High
PH=7.8-8.2
Temp=76+/-0.5f in Winter. +/-2f in summer. MH shut off when temp reaches 80f
Carbon=BRS RoX
GFO=BRS HC
Skimmer=Bubble King Supermarin 300 Deluxe
Took refugium off line since last winter. Another thing I don't have to worry about. Haven't seen any difference
No Filter socks.
250W SE Radium is run with Coralvue selectable ballast(electronic) at 250W HQI(300W) setting.
I have to stress the weekly water change. Ever since I started the weekly 10-15% water change on the start of this tank, I haven't had any major issue. I use IO. Cheap and effective.

 

[McPuff]

I have to stress the weekly water change. Ever since I started the weekly 10-15% water change on the start of this tank, I haven't had any major issue. I use IO. Cheap and effective.

I switched from Salinity to Reef Crystals about 2.5 years ago and didn't notice any changes in the coral. Wonder if I can take that a step further and go to IO. My parameters are basically the same as yours (Ca, Alk, Mg). I suppose the savings would be pretty minimal at this point though...

 

[Coral Keeper]

I honestly haven't checked my parameters for awhile. But a couple weeks ago
ALK was 8dKH
CA=450mm.
MG last measurement was at 1400ppm.
Nitrate=High
PO4=High
PH=7.8-8.2
Temp=76+/-0.5f in Winter. +/-2f in summer. MH shut off when temp reaches 80f
Carbon=BRS RoX
GFO=BRS HC
Skimmer=Bubble King Supermarin 300 Deluxe
Took refugium off line since last winter. Another thing I don't have to worry about. Haven't seen any difference
No Filter socks.
250W SE Radium is run with Coralvue selectable ballast(electronic) at 250W HQI(300W) setting.
I have to stress the weekly water change. Ever since I started the weekly 10-15% water change on the start of this tank, I haven't had any major issue. I use IO. Cheap and effective.

How high is high for the phosphates and nitrates? What range? Everyone's definition of high is different..

 

[this is me]

I switched from Salinity to Reef Crystals about 2.5 years ago and didn't notice any changes in the coral. Wonder if I can take that a step further and go to IO. My parameters are basically the same as yours (Ca, Alk, Mg). I suppose the savings would be pretty minimal at this point though...

I used IO because it’s the cheapest salt and have been proven and consists. It’s also widely available.
I don’t use salt as a way to keep or change the water parameters. The 10-15% waterchange does little to the parameters. Your corals should be the intaking the minerals a lot faster than your water change can provide. In other words, don’t use waterchange to keep up the main parameters like alk, Ca, and mg. Let the ca reactor do the work. It’s much more efficient at it. Use the water change to change out the “dirty” water.
I don’t know if that makes sense or I’m contradicting myself. But I’ve good luck with IO salt, weekly water change, and let the ca reactor do the work.

 

[this is me]

How high is high for the phosphates and nitrates? What range? Everyone's definition of high is different..

The last time I checked my PO4 was 0.6ppm. Yes. That’s high.
My Red Sea pro NO3 test only goes as high as 4ppm and the water sample is bright orange so I’m sure it’s way way higher than that.
I used to chase these numbers. Now with all the fish, I simply just can’t keep up. The fish need to eat. As long as the color on my sps is there and growing well, I’m happy.

 

[taricha]

The last time I checked my PO4 was 0.6ppm. Yes. That’s high.
My Red Sea pro NO3 test only goes as high as 4ppm and the water sample is bright orange so I’m sure it’s way way higher than that.
I used to chase these numbers. Now with all the fish, I simply just can’t keep up. The fish need to eat. As long as the color on my sps is there and growing well, I’m happy.

I know it goes against what you said about chasing numbers, but I think a Triton ICP and N-DOC (measure organics) would be absolutely fascinating for your audience.

 

[this is me]

I probably will do it just for my entertainment and others lol. Would be interesting to know how much metals in the water at 3 years then maybe 5 years and longer.

 

[this is me]

Angels and Tangs at it on the nori. The other little fish get the crumbs. Even the anthias love the nori bits.
I use this. It’s red seaweed.
https://www.amazon.com/Raw-Organic-...c+raw+seaweed&qid=1555681676&s=gateway&sr=8-7

 

[McPuff]

I used IO because it’s the cheapest salt and have been proven and consists. It’s also widely available.
I don’t use salt as a way to keep or change the water parameters. The 10-15% waterchange does little to the parameters. Your corals should be the intaking the minerals a lot faster than your water change can provide. In other words, don’t use waterchange to keep up the main parameters like alk, Ca, and mg. Let the ca reactor do the work. It’s much more efficient at it. Use the water change to change out the “dirty” water.
I don’t know if that makes sense or I’m contradicting myself. But I’ve good luck with IO salt, weekly water change, and let the ca reactor do the work.

Yes, I agree with you. My point was that if I switched to IO from RC I wouldn't save much money. They are not far off in price. It may, however, be worth switching as the IO salt appears to be "cleaner" than RC based on the recent study that BRS performed between several salt mixes.

 

[this is me]

Yes, I agree with you. My point was that if I switched to IO from RC I wouldn't save much money. They are not far off in price. It may, however, be worth switching as the IO salt appears to be "cleaner" than RC based on the recent study that BRS performed between several salt mixes.

Maybe my IO is from older batch because I usually buy 10 boxes at a time and it lasts about a year. Or maybe "dirty" is subjective but I don't think I would say the IO salt I'm using is clean. My white mixing barrel is pretty brown looking but this hasn't cause any issue because the mixed water is clear. I just take the barrel out every Spring and Fall and spray it down.

 

[McPuff]

Maybe my IO is from older batch because I usually buy 10 boxes at a time and it lasts about a year. Or maybe "dirty" is subjective but I don't think I would say the IO salt I'm using is clean. My white mixing barrel is pretty brown looking but this hasn't cause any issue because the mixed water is clear. I just take the barrel out every Spring and Fall and spray it down.

Same here. The mixing barrel gets scrubbed every so often and I will use vinegar soak to really clean it well... maybe every few months. I think residue is going to be an "issue" for any salt type.

 

[Justin D]

Hello how thick is the aquarium glass?

 

[vetteguy53081]

The tank was gorgeous !!
I happened to sell this Very tank a few weeks ago. New owner loves it.

 

[revhtree]

Maybe my IO is from older batch because I usually buy 10 boxes at a time and it lasts about a year. Or maybe "dirty" is subjective but I don't think I would say the IO salt I'm using is clean. My white mixing barrel is pretty brown looking but this hasn't cause any issue because the mixed water is clear. I just take the barrel out every Spring and Fall and spray it down.

Hey how is this reef doing? It's the Reef of the Day today!

 

[this is me]

Guys,
Sorry for the lack of update. I thought I have posted on this thread already but we moved last September and the tank has been broken down and sold.

I've been living the life of Final Fantasy 7 for awhile. And you see the contraption in the lower left corner of the pic? That was the reason for the move.

 

[this is me]

Hey guys
Sorry for the lack of update. I thought I have posted that I’ve moved and the tank has been taken down and sold last Fall. I didn't realized that was only on the local forum. I could not make the 72”x48” footprint work in the new house. With a 10 month old at the time of moving, i did not want to deal with the tank. I sold off all the fish, most corals and sent the two giganteas to a good friend tank(they’re clobbered up his tank right now lol) and a couple frags. I kept all the equipment because I knew I’ll be back.

My reefless life did not last very long. We moved into the new house in late September and by Christmas time, I was already pressuring wash the rocks and cure them in a Rubbermaid bin.
In February, I’ve made an order of a new tank through Miracle and a new sump from Advanced Acrylics. The new tank is 84”x34”x28” and the sump is 60”x20”x18”.
The tank and sump were supposed to be 6-8 weeks lead time. Then came Covid19....and I’m still sitting here without the tank or the sump.
However, due to the lockdown and straight up boredom, I’ve acquired a Waterbox frag tank and set it up to get stuff going.

Here’s the rocks being pressured washed and cured in a Rubbermaid in December.

 

[revhtree]

Guys,
Sorry for the lack of update. I thought I have posted on this thread already but we moved last September and the tank has been broken down and sold.

I've been living the life of Final Fantasy 7 for awhile. And you see the contraption in the lower left corner of the pic? That was the reason for the move.

NOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!

Do you plan to set up a smaller tank soon?