I’ve seen it done to another Waterbox (70.2), but the member hasn’t been active for a while. I want to see how it’s been holding up.Yes. I wonder how hard it is to apply that stuff. It has a clean look.
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I’ve seen it done to another Waterbox (70.2), but the member hasn’t been active for a while. I want to see how it’s been holding up.Yes. I wonder how hard it is to apply that stuff. It has a clean look.
One of the reasons that I got the Waterbox is so that I can scrape all of the algae off it the glass, including the overflow box since I like sterile-looking glass. It’s just frustrating that they tout their quality assurance process so much; it’s clear that their quality assurance team does not do what they say they do.
I started compiling a list of equipment for plumbing my return and manifold. After measuring and looking at parts and fittings, it seems more appropriate for me to plumb my return with the 1” flow sensor and appropriate fittings and to power the manifold via a separate pump. I don’t have much room in the sump, but I think I can make it fit. Doing so will give me more control over maintenance, and it will allow me to make changes to the manifold without shutting down the return pump.
This will allow me to get my system up and running sooner since I can build the manifold after the system has water in it.
I ended up placing an order at Bulk Reef Supply for the 1” flow sensor, a 1.25”-to-1” reducer, and a 1”-0.75” reducer. I am going to use the 1.25” union that came with my COR-15, so I will grab a small piece of 1.25” PVC to attach the 1.25”-to-1” reducer to. Then, I’ll attach the flow sensor to that. I’ll add two 45° fittings on top of the flow sensor, and then reduce that to 3/4” before it enters the tank.You may not even need to build a manifold. I just put a small pump like the cobalt 1200 in the sump for each reactor. I ended up plumbing the UV filter on the return though. If you take that route you will need a beefy pump since the UV slows the flow quite a bit. I have my return at 400 gph which is fine. I have the 1” flow sensor too, which helps in the beginning.
I'm just going to leave this here...
I'm not too worried about the vinyl since I can remove it and paint it, like you recommended, which I should have done with the original tank. However, the scratches on the black glass of the overflow box are highly visible under the lighting since they are white. I know that they are there, so I see them immediately when I look at my tank. I'm wondering if a permanent marker can cover them up without being as noticeable. I'm going to do some research and see what I can find with regard to fixing scratches and scuffs on colored glass.if the vinyl is really an issue for you. I would take it off and paint it black. the $1 can from HD works really well. I recently used a gloss black slightly nicer can, as that was what i had. Worked really well