Nitrates

[SinkyShippy]

I did a water change a week ago. And the nitrates are already at 10ppm. How do I keep the nitrates down?

 

[Jekyl]

Macroalgae is a good option.

 

[SPR1968]

The easiest option is simple water changes of say 10% every week.

If this doesn’t hold it down, you can look into additional biological filtration within the system such as Seachem Matrix, Marine Pure, then there is carbon dosing such as Red Sea Nopox

A good nitrate target it around 5-10ppm anyway depending on what your trying to achieve

 

[Sabellafella]

I did a water change a week ago. And the nitrates are already at 10ppm. How do I keep the nitrates down?

Hello! Theres plenty of ways to reduce nitrate, if we can learn a little more about your setup and routine, I'd be glad to throw out some options. 10 to 20 ppm nitrate is what I keep mine at. 15%percent water changes every Sunday and not many fish kept me from never having to worry about nitrate issues.

 

[PatW]

A popular way is to keep macroalgae like chaeto in a refugium with a light. The algae grows and as it does so removes phosphates and nitrates from the water column. A modest light works if you are using just ordinary lighting in your display. However, if you are using powerful lights to grow photosynthetic corals, you will need a powerful and probably pricy light to grow chaeto.

 

[SinkyShippy]

Hello! Theres plenty of ways to reduce nitrate, if we can learn a little more about your setup and routine, I'd be glad to throw out some options. 10 to 20 ppm nitrate is what I keep mine at. 15%percent water changes every Sunday and not many fish kept me from never having to worry about nitrate issues.

All I have in there presently is a tailspot blenny. I've done changes every two weeks but I'd like to make it last longer than that. I just purchased a sand vacuum with the hope that it'll help.

Here's the equipment I have:

Aquatic Life 115 Mini Internal Protein Skimmer/Filter, 30-Gallon, 10-5/8"H x 3.5"W x 3.5"D https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0028BPRMA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_71AVCb2FND0T8

AQUATOP MR-20 Multimedia Reactor with Pump https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GYG54O6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Y2AVCb9XQKYJT

Marineland Penguin Power Filter Bio Wheel Size 20-30 Gallon 150Gph New https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q5H1PMB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_K3AVCbHE210PT

Aquatop PF40-UV Hang-On Filter with UV Sterilization https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005G03ZQU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_73AVCbX3DXTB2

 

[Lasse]

How old is the tank and is it cycled?

Sincerely Lasse

 

[SinkyShippy]

How old is the tank and is it cycled?

Sincerely Lasse

It is cycled. It's a couple months old. I purchased algae wafers. Could that be the reason? I noticed my blenny not really eating them. They dissolve and get slimy.

 

[Lasse]

Have you analysed your NO2? Even low NO2 readings will give false reading of NO3

Sincerely Lasse

 

[SinkyShippy]

Have you analysed your NO2? Even low NO2 readings will give false reading of NO3

Sincerely Lasse

My nitrites are 0. My nitrates were zero in the beginning but now they are high.

 

[SinkyShippy]

Macroalgae is a good option.

Would this work in a 20gallon? How would I go about this?

 

[SinkyShippy]

A popular way is to keep macroalgae like chaeto in a refugium with a light. The algae grows and as it does so removes phosphates and nitrates from the water column. A modest light works if you are using just ordinary lighting in your display. However, if you are using powerful lights to grow photosynthetic corals, you will need a powerful and probably pricy light to grow chaeto.

I don't have a light right now. I am working on getting one.

 

[Jekyl]

Would this work in a 20gallon? How would I go about this?

Running a sump? If so get some chaeto and a light for it. If not some graciallara or caulerpa I think look good enough for a display tank.

 

[SinkyShippy]

Running a sump? If so get some chaeto and a light for it. If not some graciallara or caulerpa I think look good enough for a display tank.

No I don't have a sump.

Do these require a light? I'm still working on getting one that works for my tank.

 

[Lasse]

The nitrates (if there is any) comes from the food. The fast lane is food - fish - ammonia from the gills - ammonia converted to nitite (by mainly nitrosomas type of bacteria) - nitrite converted to nitrate (by mostly nitrobacter/nitrospira bacteria) The slow lane - uneaten food - consumed of break down bacteria given ammonia to the water - ammonia converted to nitite (by mainly nitrosomas type of bacteria) - nitrite converted to nitrate (by mostly nitrobacter/nitrospira bacteria). So yes - uneaten food can produce ammonia and hence nitrate.

If you have 10 ppm in NO3 - and change 50 % of the water - you should read 5 ppm directly after.

Which brand of NO3 test do you have?

Sincerely Lasse

 

[SinkyShippy]

The nitrates (if there is any) comes from the food. The fast lane is food - fish - ammonia from the gills - ammonia converted to nitite (by mainly nitrosomas type of bacteria) - nitrite converted to nitrate (by mostly nitrobacter/nitrospira bacteria) The slow lane - uneaten food - consumed of break down bacteria given ammonia to the water - ammonia converted to nitite (by mainly nitrosomas type of bacteria) - nitrite converted to nitrate (by mostly nitrobacter/nitrospira bacteria). So yes - uneaten food can produce ammonia and hence nitrate.

If you have 10 ppm in NO3 - and change 50 % of the water - you should read 5 ppm directly after.

Which brand of NO3 test do you have?

Sincerely Lasse

I have the API test.

I will do the 50% change this weekend.

 

[MrObscura]

There's no reason to reduce them.

 

[Jekyl]

No I don't have a sump.

Do these require a light? I'm still working on getting one that works for my tank.

Yes a light is required. I'm new also but I dont think your levels are considered an issue. I'd check into it before getting drastic

 

[Lasse]

There's no reason to reduce them.

Yes a light is required. I'm new also but I dont think your levels are considered an issue. I'd check into it before getting drastic

I agree

Do not overfeed. If you only have one tailspot blenny - do not need to feed much. Concentrate on getting a dissent light and you will have some algae growing for him/her. chasing figures in this early life of your aquarium can lead to imbalance. When you get your light - start with low intensity and be sure to get a dissent CUC.

Food - we tend to feed our fishes with too much and too nutrient rich food. Food manufactured for fish predators. Most of our aquarium fish eat algae and invertebrates. I normally only feed with deep frozen natural food like adult artemia, cyclops, small shrimps like the one from the family Mysidae and other invertebrates. The ones eating algae mostly get their food from algae growing in my aquaria. My way of feeding is often – take as much that you think is a small amount – take away half of it – feed the fish. I´m also only feeding once a day – often late – around 22 o´clock. My fish new that – just around 21:00 they use to gather around the part of the aquarium where I usually feed – during other times – they just swimming around looking for other food produced in the aquaria or just doing their thing. My fish does not grow fast but they stay healthy and active.

According the test – I’m not familiarly with API tests – we can´t get them here there I live (Sweden). Other with experiences of this tests – please fill in your experiences with this brand

Sincerely Lasse

 

[SinkyShippy]

I agree

Do not overfeed. If you only have one tailspot blenny - do not need to feed much. Concentrate on getting a dissent light and you will have some algae growing for him/her. chasing figures in this early life of your aquarium can lead to imbalance. When you get your light - start with low intensity and be sure to get a dissent CUC.

Food - we tend to feed our fishes with too much and too nutrient rich food. Food manufactured for fish predators. Most of our aquarium fish eat algae and invertebrates. I normally only feed with deep frozen natural food like adult artemia, cyclops, small shrimps like the one from the family Mysidae and other invertebrates. The ones eating algae mostly get their food from algae growing in my aquaria. My way of feeding is often – take as much that you think is a small amount – take away half of it – feed the fish. I´m also only feeding once a day – often late – around 22 o´clock. My fish new that – just around 21:00 they use to gather around the part of the aquarium where I usually feed – during other times – they just swimming around looking for other food produced in the aquaria or just doing their thing. My fish does not grow fast but they stay healthy and active.

According the test – I’m not familiarly with API tests – we can´t get them here there I live (Sweden). Other with experiences of this tests – please fill in your experiences with this brand

Sincerely Lasse

Ok. Thanks a ton!