NITRATES!

[newreef1]

Bio balls and a canister filter is your nitrate factory.. need a sump with skimmer, fuge and start carbon dosing if needed.. activated carbon will not help..

I have a sump, not using the plastic ones but I have marine pure biospheres. I have the plastic media cup with the sera crystal clear filter balls on bottom, carbon on top of that, purigen on top of that, and then a cut out filter sponge from fluval brand on the top. And two RedSea mesh socks. I also have a Aquamaxx protein skimmer.

 

[newreef1]

Based on the photo, it's 160 or higher...

Yes, and it’s been the same for weeks now! Maybe I’m not running my skimmer correctly? I just ordered 3 marinepure blocks, some algone pouches which are suppose to remove nitrates and some nitrate removing media pads which I’ll replace with the fluval filter pad I’m currently using.

 

[newreef1]

That's really low on Salinity. Almost brackish at that point I'd think. I would definitely get that up. It may even mess with the beneficial bacteria you're needing. I think 1.010 is around 25/26ppt? 25ppt is considered brackish, and say if you have a clownfish, they can't live in brackish water.

I'm new to the hobby and just trying to help also lol

Thanks I appreciate it, I was trying to run my tank in hyposalinty to get rid of the ICH in my tank.

 

[newreef1]

Good catch! I skimmed right over that value in the OP.

Would that cause high nitrate reading. I did a WC with higher salinity but didn’t make much of an overall difference. Any tips on how to increase salinity faster.

 

[newreef1]

Either way, the nitrate is not whats killing your fish. Very few species are sensitive to nitrates at that level, and its usually reserved for sharks and rays. Even at 160 thats not near fish harming level of nitrates. Your issue with fish dying is something else entirely.

Like what?

 

[newreef1]

You are correct. While canisters *can* promote high nitrates, when maintained properly they are fine.

If nitrates aren’t getting the fish sick, any idea what’s doing so and causing lethargy. I have a naso and blue powder tang I just got on Sunday which aren’t eating. Also I have a yellow ornamental angel fish which doesn’t eat. The anthias also don’t swim much.

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

you need to find a better fish store.

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

Yes, and it’s been the same for weeks now! Maybe I’m not running my skimmer correctly? I just ordered 3 marinepure blocks, some algone pouches which are suppose to remove nitrates and some nitrate removing media pads which I’ll replace with the fluval filter pad I’m currently using.

You may just not be running the test correctly… you really need to confirm outlying results with a second type of test, regardless of whether you use API or another brand.

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

If nitrates aren’t getting the fish sick, any idea what’s doing so and causing lethargy. I have a naso and blue powder tang I just got on Sunday which aren’t eating. Also I have a yellow ornamental angel fish which doesn’t eat. The anthias also don’t swim much.

Wait… your tank has ich but you’re still buying new fish??

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

If nitrates aren’t getting the fish sick, any idea what’s doing so and causing lethargy. I have a naso and blue powder tang I just got on Sunday which aren’t eating. Also I have a yellow ornamental angel fish which doesn’t eat. The anthias also don’t swim much.

Read post #31…

 

[Hydrored]

If nitrates aren’t getting the fish sick, any idea what’s doing so and causing lethargy. I have a naso and blue powder tang I just got on Sunday which aren’t eating. Also I have a yellow ornamental angel fish which doesn’t eat. The anthias also don’t swim much.

Return these fish to the store please so they at least have a chance at survival. Get a proper quarantine tank and treat the current fish with copper power. Copper Power can make test kits not work accurately. Stop everything you are doing, slowly adjust your salinity back up while your fish are in quarantine and main tank is fallow.

These are animals, no different than a dog or a cat…..

If you do not have the patience to properly treat I suggest you leave the hobby until you are ready and able to slow down.

Sorry for the harsh truth

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

Return these fish to the store please so they at least have a chance at survival. Get a proper quarantine tank and treat the current fish with copper power. Copper Power can make test kits not work accurately. Stop everything you are doing, slowly adjust your salinity back up while your fish are in quarantine and main tank is fallow.

These are animals, no different than a dog or a cat…..

If you do not have the patience to properly treat I suggest you leave the hobby until you are ready and able to slow down.

Sorry for the harsh truth

I looked at some of the OP's other threads and it appears he's had the DT in hypo since the beginning of August... Wouldn't 4 months in brackish water kill most reef fish?

 

[newreef1]

You may just not be running the test correctly… you really need to confirm outlying results with a second type of test, regardless of whether you use API or another brand.

Yea it seems like it, I’ve been consistently getting the same result.

 

[newreef1]

Return these fish to the store please so they at least have a chance at survival. Get a proper quarantine tank and treat the current fish with copper power. Copper Power can make test kits not work accurately. Stop everything you are doing, slowly adjust your salinity back up while your fish are in quarantine and main tank is fallow.

These are animals, no different than a dog or a cat…..

If you do not have the patience to properly treat I suggest you leave the hobby until you are ready and able to slow down.

Sorry for the harsh truth

My fish are doing well, I only see white spots on one hippo tang and am already raising salinity slower and will be treating my tank with copper power. I understand that fish living creatures, I wouldn’t want them to die nor am I sick myself that I find pleasure in seeing them sick, hence I’m trying to make sure the high nitrates don’t add to the ICH. I understand but thank you.

 

[newreef1]

I looked at some of the OP's other threads and it appears he's had the DT in hypo since the beginning of August... Wouldn't 4 months in brackish water kill most reef fish?

Running my tank in hypo hasnt killed most of my fish, every now and then when I get fish I find some to be alive for a few weeks and then suddenly they die. I’ve read that treating fish in hyposalinty is safe for most except some sensitive fish but I assume they wouldn’t be able to handle it more than a couple days let along a few weeks. The hypo is suppose to help with their gill osmosis and ICH. I just haven’t had luck with eradicating the ICH. Otherwise the fish have been able to handle the salinity.

 

[newreef1]

I suspect that nitrates are not the issue. I had a spell in my predatory FOWLR tank a couple years back where my skimmer bust and it took me a couple months to replace. That was a 300 gallon tank with large predatory fish and my nitrates climbed to over 200 ppm. I didn't lose any fish and it didn't affect their demeanors or appetites. I would check for potential toxins in the tank. I have not found nitrate to be a big killer of fish, even if the fish are smaller.

Any idea what kind or how to find what’s causing the problem?

 

[Rennurdoar]

My fish are doing well

But they're not, if they're all lethargic and not swimming, and some are dying, they are in fact not doing well. There are a lot more knowledgeable people in this thread than I am, so I'll just follow along so I may learn more. Good luck with your tank and I hope they all make it through!

 

[newreef1]

While I appreciate the use of hannah or salifert tests, API nitrate test is reliable especially at higher ranges and is more than suitable for this case provided the instructions are followed. At that level red, even a hanna checker would show 160 plus.

I know my test kit is not entirely wrong because when I tested during cycling, it did show different nitrate, nitrite and ammonia readings. So I know that it’s not a faulty kit, or at least it wasn’t initially.

 

[newreef1]

I've used NoPox to bring nitrates from 160 plus to zero. I dose 4 ml daily to 16 gallons for reference. Since your nitrites are zero they aren't exaggerating your nitrate reading. Key with using API nitrate test kit is properly shaking that second regent. It's not precise but accurate enough. Easy enough to determine when it's below 25 ppm. WWC runs their systems at that level. Panic would be the last thing I'd do. Plus high nitrates shouldn't be the cause of fish deaths. At least not from a sudden rise but more likely from prolong exposure. ICP might be the only route to exclude anything else causing issues.

BTW, since the test only goes to 160 ppm then there's no indication of exactly how high is high. Couple of 25% WC would help although I try carbon dosing first. Vodka more concentrated than vinegar but those two are an option to NoPox and readily available. Often found in most homes. Just wouldn't use the expensive vodka. Perhaps what is given to guests :beaming-face-with-smiling-eyes:

Haha I don’t drink so no vodka at my house, vinegar sure! I got so concerned with my testing I actually timed how long I was shaking the bottles and tube after adding the reagent.

 

[newreef1]

I've used NoPox to bring nitrates from 160 plus to zero. I dose 4 ml daily to 16 gallons for reference. Since your nitrites are zero they aren't exaggerating your nitrate reading. Key with using API nitrate test kit is properly shaking that second regent. It's not precise but accurate enough. Easy enough to determine when it's below 25 ppm. WWC runs their systems at that level. Panic would be the last thing I'd do. Plus high nitrates shouldn't be the cause of fish deaths. At least not from a sudden rise but more likely from prolong exposure. ICP might be the only route to exclude anything else causing issues.

BTW, since the test only goes to 160 ppm then there's no indication of exactly how high is high. Couple of 25% WC would help although I try carbon dosing first. Vodka more concentrated than vinegar but those two are an option to NoPox and readily available. Often found in most homes. Just wouldn't use the expensive vodka. Perhaps what is given to guests :beaming-face-with-smiling-eyes:

I don’t have any corals, it’s still safe to use Nopox? Just add it to my tank?