That’s the setup I have now I do have the old pvc tubes but I just cleaned them and want them to dry out.
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What is your salinity. We brought fish home and out in cycled quarantine and one started to show signs of stress heavy breathing stopped eating on day two and we checked our salinity and somehow with evaluation it got to be way high so we did immediate water change and slowly brought it down over 12 hours and three water changes. Fish did well and into displace after one week observation no meds. This was an angel and showed no signs of flukes or ick/velvet. Also what is your temp?All fish are bought locally at LFS and I make sure they eat before bringing home. I also do match LFS to insure it’s an easy transition for the fish from the store to home after floating the bag. No fish I purchase so no signs of parasites and look very hardy. Purple tang, Hippo tang, pair of frost bite clowns. Also this is a very high end LFS they’ve always treated me well.
lots of good advice here. I plan to change to Hotrocks' plan next time I get fish.I’ll try again one more time with some cheaper fish. I will empty QT give it a good cleaning and try and keep my bacteria so I don’t go through a cycle. I will try that QT regimen seems like a good plan. Also can GC and Copper be fine in QT without affecting the fish?
I agree with this oneThe tank looks nice but I don’t see a powerhead or bubbler for oxygen? I could be wrong but I think they need oxygen esp if using meds.
The tank looks nice but I don’t see a powerhead or bubbler for oxygen? I could be wrong but I think they need oxygen esp if using meds.
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That’s the setup I have now I do have the old pvc tubes but I just cleaned them and want them to dry out.
I think that's the biggest problem. Oxygen in QT tanks are often low.The tank looks nice but I don’t see a powerhead or bubbler for oxygen? I could be wrong but I think they need oxygen esp if using meds.
I agree on the LFS sg issue. I had a conversation at one recently, first reply to sg was 'I don't know". I got them to measure it for it me. They used the floating dial in a box method, it was 1.015. I have a feeling there is a lot of variability. I have wondered about this when ordering online as they often report a sg, but is it real. I cannot mix saltwater once they arrive so I do really long acclimations with the difficulty of the temp in the acclimation container dropping to room temp. I have been looking a small heater for a 5 gal bucket but the water volumes are so low I am not sure it works. It is frustrating. Also, make sure you are using RO/DI water. There are a lot of things in city and well water.
Why two ammonia badges, have you had one fail or is the second just in aqueous storage until you need it somewhere else?
The tank looks nice but I don’t see a powerhead or bubbler for oxygen? I could be wrong but I think they need oxygen esp if using meds.[/QUOTE
There is a bio wheel in there helps with oxgynation. I agree an air stone or a hob skimmer with out the collection cup will be extremely useful .
I don't know. You need a physiology study for fish, and then it likely varies by species. Changing internal sg on a human that much instantly would likely put a person into a coma with water shifting. Typically, organisms compensate to prevent that sort of thing. I really do not know how fast or much a marine fish can compensate but water moves quickly.I mean would a SG change from let’s say 1.018 to 1.025 in 3 days kill fish so fast like that? I’m still thinking maybe the eater was tainted with something idk. My son could have also drop something in water or something on his hand and stuck it in the water with out me knowing.
I mean would a SG change from let’s say 1.018 to 1.025 in 3 days kill fish so fast like that? I’m still thinking maybe the eater was tainted with something idk. My son could have also drop something in water or something on his hand and stuck it in the water with out me knowing.