Nutrient help.

[jtal730]

Currently in the Market for something to help with nutrient control. I was thinking the clear water V2 which seems to have disappeared from the market can’t find one for sale which seems to have great feed back. Secondly I was thinking of the ARID N18 macro algae reactor l. Finally the Icecap turf scrubber, then upon reading reviews I been reading about the Santa Monica upflow algae scrubber. The reason i want one is because have a heavy stocked Red Sea reefer G2+200 and nutrient remain in the 25-30 range and phosphate (0.04-.08) is manageable ( if I feed every 2 days which I don’t like . My fish are healthy . I am also reading about people have success with the equipment mentioned above except growing some unwanted algae in the DT. Would like to know what options would be the best to go with .

 

[Subsea]

Better describe your setup, including livestock. Do you do water changes?
What algae is in your display?
What clean up crew do you have?

Neither one of those numbers is excessive. In looking at your system, what makes you feel that nutrients are too high.

 

[jtal730]

Better describe your setup, including livestock. Do you do water changes?
What algae is in your display?
What clean up crew do you have?

Neither one of those numbers is excessive. In looking at your system, what makes you feel that nutrients are too high.

I have a 56 gallon system with 2 pairs of clowns 2 small grow out tangs and a few pairs of wrasse. Algae blenny. Not many hermits probably 4 and 6 big snails and a pair of cleaner shrimp. I do 10 gallon water changes every 2 weeks. I have no algae in my display. I have a skimmer and roller mat. When I do water changes nitrates are at 14 and each time I feed it’s goes up so I feed less often every couple of days frozen only. The nitrates can get to 40 if I don’t dose nopox which the. Lowers my phosphate too much that I have to dose neophos. Corals seem happy but some them get upset when nitrate rise about 30. Want to keep my nitrate consistent at 10

 

[Subsea]

Which corals suffer when nitrates reach 40 ppm.

Also, how long has system been set up and do you have a sump. I assume not, as each one of those devices are stand alone systems costing $250-$500.

I would double my water change schedule for 3 months and re-evaluate.

I built my own algae reactor with 3” pvc at 3’ tall with a submersible 30” led grow light for $100. However, the maintenance to keep bulbs clean was neglected and I now use it as an unlite pod refugium to display tank as well as good water & air gas exchange when it spills back to 120G display. System includes a 40G cryptic refugium full of diver collected live rock.

 

[jtal730]

Which corals suffer when nitrates reach 40 ppm.

Also, how long has system been set up and do you have a sump. I assume not, as each one of those devices are stand alone systems costing $250-$500.

I would double my water change schedule for 3 months and re-evaluate.

I built my own algae reactor with 3” pvc at 3’ tall with a submersible 30” led grow light for $100. However, the maintenance to keep bulbs clean was neglected and I now use it as an unlite pod refugium to display tank as well as good water & air gas exchange when it spills back to 120G display. System includes a 40G cryptic refugium full of diver collected live rock.

Yes I have a sump where I have the skimmer and roller mat. Some acros don’t have polyp extension with the higher nitrates. Also noticed some bubble bounce mushrooms frags tend lightening in color and even detach from plug. They are getting 180 par down in the tank and little flow. So I figured it’s not that after long observation. I don’t mind paying for the equipment for the chaeto reactor or turf scrubber. Just want the best option for my set up.

 

[Subsea]

OK

I think Santa Monica upflow is the Gold Standard.

I also like Ice Cap as a manufacturer.

I think both are good equipment and would probably be less maintenance than the algae reactor.

 

[Reefering1]

Neither one of those numbers is excessive. In looking at your system, what makes you feel that nutrients are too high.

If I'm reading/interpreting correct, the concern is that food is being rationed to maintain those levels. Sounds like op thinks they should/ wants to feed more but keep nutrients under control at the same time. I know my fish wouldn't like being fed only every other day.

 

[Reefering1]

Consider purchasing diver collected live rock for your system in general. And in particular, add some of this live rock to your dark sump and grow cryptic sponges as well as microbes that will feed your corals while process ing the inert nutrients that you want lowered.

which lr vendor do you recommend? How much cryptic area vs dt would be recommended? Slow or fast flow?

 

[Subsea]

which lr vendor do you recommend? How much cryptic area vs dt would be recommended? Slow or fast flow?

Because of two hurricanes to Florida Gulf Coast both Tampa Bay Saltwater & Gulf Live Rock are behind due to repairs at work & home. TBS says they will be online in December. I like Gulf Live Rock but it will not be until January as Dan lost his boat to the hurricane.

There is no fixed ratio that I am aware of except your budget and available space. Cryptic sponges have colonized eggcrate in one of the sumps.

Understand this, all diver collected live rock has dormant cryptic sponges. This means that rocks in your display that are on the dark side of the reef lights are capable of cryptic sponge biochemistry.

I use both slow in sumps and fast in canister filters.

 

[jtal730]

If I'm reading/interpreting correct, the concern is that food is being rationed to maintain those levels. Sounds like op thinks they should/ wants to feed more but keep nutrients under control at the same time. I know my fish wouldn't like being fed only every other day.

Yes correct

 

[Subsea]

Full tank shot with white light?

 

[zusima]

if my math is correct (1st coffee) you have a minimum of 11 fish in a 56 since you didn't say how many pairs or wrasse? Obvious but still, your rinsing your frozen when you do your 2nd day assuming large feed? My nutrients are purposely kept at 15 and .06-.08 just by rinsing or not if low. Do your corals show growth? I changed my red sea ato reservoir into a refugium for 50$ and works well but your sump seems full. I try to think simple other than add more stuff. I chased numbers and made things worse with nopox and others...i changed my habits and boom..numbers aligned.

 

[jtal730]

if my math is correct (1st coffee) you have a minimum of 11 fish in a 56 since you didn't say how many pairs or wrasse? Obvious but still, your rinsing your frozen when you do your 2nd day assuming large feed? My nutrients are purposely kept at 15 and .06-.08 just by rinsing or not if low. Do your corals show growth? I changed my red sea ato reservoir into a refugium for 50$ and works well but your sump seems full. I try to think simple other than add more stuff. I chased numbers and made things worse with nopox and others...i changed my habits and boom..numbers aligned.

Yea man coral a striving for the most part some are really happy and some aren’t showing their full potential. I just want consistent lower nitrates in the. 10ppm that way the coral that are striving probably won’t mind and the coral that still their full potential to show can appreciate the lower nitrates and my fish can eat more frequently. Therefore I wanted to see what people would recommend either the Santa Monica upflow ,the ARID chaeto reactor , or the icecap turf scrubber and which one is less likely to cause algae to form in DT due to stripping nutrients

 

[Jipolley]

Currently in the Market for something to help with nutrient control. I was thinking the clear water V2 which seems to have disappeared from the market can’t find one for sale which seems to have great feed back. Secondly I was thinking of the ARID N18 macro algae reactor l. Finally the Icecap turf scrubber, then upon reading reviews I been reading about the Santa Monica upflow algae scrubber. The reason i want one is because have a heavy stocked Red Sea reefer G2+200 and nutrient remain in the 25-30 range and phosphate (0.04-.08) is manageable ( if I feed every 2 days which I don’t like . My fish are healthy . I am also reading about people have success with the equipment mentioned above except growing some unwanted algae in the DT. Would like to know what options would be the best to go with .

I did it with just using GFOs and the right fish.

 

[Turbo's Aquatics Verified Sponsor]

Currently in the Market for something to help with nutrient control. I was thinking the clear water V2 which seems to have disappeared from the market can’t find one for sale which seems to have great feed back

Just so everyone knows, the word I am hearing is that Ice Cap is pulling their scrubbers off the market, what is left is backstock that is getting purged.

I also noticed that the Clear Water Scrubbers are not available anywhere online anymore, those got purged out and now Josh Johnson is back to making them, but it doesn't sound like they will be retailed online through the distribution chain anymore.

As for me, I'm still in limbo recovering from my thing. Mainly a financial recovery at this point, health is doing good. I hit the pause button before the aquarium industry REALLY took a nose dive...not sure when I'll fire things back up