NUVO 112

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Jan 22, 2020
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Had a Bio Cube for a long time and when I look at tanks I prefer a squarish tank. After I made the decision to get a new, and bigger tank, I saw the NUVO 112 and had to have it. I’ve rebuilt my Bio Cube a few times over the last decade and I was ready for something exciting and new. I’ve always wanted a fish/tank room and so this will be a nice centerpiece In my new fish room. I intend to reseal one of my Bio Cubes and get both of them up again along with my 55gal freshwater planted for my wife. The first thing I needed to do was level the floor. I used self leveler and made a base 5ft X 7ft.

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Corals.com
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Butcher333
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My plan was to try my hand in some SPS and this will be my first reef tank with more than just a blenny or watchman goby. If I can‘t keep sticks I haven’t lost anything, but I’m setting myself up for success this time I think.
 
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Butcher333
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Verticle aluminum supports would seem pretty hard to crush, does not swell up from a small amount of water and doesn’t rust. It’s concept and integrity are why I bought this stand and even the tank at all. I’ve so had it with MDF and wood and steel. I eventually built my own stand for one of my Bio Cubes out of butcher block and built a waterproof tray that the sump and fuge sit in.
This stand had instructions which didn’t live up to my standards and added some frustration. when I finished I had an extra piece which confused me, so I had to call because I couldn’t find anything on the stand really on forums or YouTube. My advice for a quick installation is to measure and mark the centerline of each crossmember and support and measure the location spacing so you won’t have to fiddle with the piece shifting ever so minute but critically. It took myself, my wife, and my brother a long time relocating and remeasuring, then taking apart to add that 4th crossmember. Imagine 3 two year olds building a dog house. You go to tighten one fastener and it shifts and your brother is trying to hold it still while your wife keeps handing you the tool, rubber mallet, tool, marker, measuring tape. You know, good family time.
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I’m told that each fastener is rated at 300lds. The doors went on by using a gentle tap with the rubber mallet and tightening a couple screws after adjusting just right.
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Butcher333
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Then came the aquarium. It came packaged extremely well. In fact, when it came time to transport the tank to my basement which was “not” easy, I placed the foam and boards etc back in the crate and re-closed the wood top and fasteners and removed the base of the pallet. (Carefully) I bent the nails over so as not to push them into the glass bottom. Then I removed the door and the hand rails from the stairs to allow room and I got lucky because if it had been much bigger I couldn’t have fit it down the stairs.
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I was going to build a ramp with carpet and toe boards but was motivated by another Reef2Reef members post and also my brothers grief at the thought of the amount of hassle that would add. I say we, but mostly my brother handled most of the trip down to the basement. VERY STRESSFUL! I was elated to get it down there.
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SOOO exciting. That’s a big cube.
 
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Butcher333
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STUFF LIST:
For light I went with Metal Halide. I got the 250w and 400w Radium with 20” Hamilton Cozumel Sun to give myself options.
I also got the Apex dream bundle, Neptune PAR sensor, ATK V2, COR-15 Return and WAV pumps. For the skimmer I went with the Maxspect AD600. Ooh La la. For the Sump I went with the Bashea SMS 3018. Which fits beautifully.
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Butcher333
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The PVC board didn't seem that sturdy laid across the 4 crossmembers. I emailed Bashea about whether the sump would be supported adequately this way and they were pretty adamant that it would need to be supported entirely across the bottom and said that otherwise pressure points could cause issues, if not now, down the road. Everything needs customization and fabrication to some degree. I just can't escape it. LOL.. It took a long time to come up with a solution, but I finally ended up using 1/2 cement board and 3 layers of vinyl to match exactly the thickness of the crossmembers which I believe was .60" or .63". I Can't recall now.

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I placed two 1" pieces of PVC along the left side and two 3/4" pieces along the back side, so that positioning the sump is simple and precise. Everything will be hard plumbed and that requires precise placement and I don't want to deal with alignment issues. I marked the PVC board where the edge of the sump would sit to allow for a door of sorts to be lifted to clean up any water which will at some point end up below the PVC board.

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The sump had to be turned onto its side to fit through the front, then turned while holding it above the frame on the sides, and then flipped back upright into position. I wouldn't have been able to fit a bigger sump in here, it's tight..

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Butcher333
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Then came the plumbing. This was very nerve racking. When you've got numerous pieces that are pre-measured and fitted and you're 3 cemented pieces into it, a mistake can be detrimental and really expensive. Internal plumbing is a little harder because space is limited and you sort of have to go with the only option that works from all aspects. I turned my head for a second and didn't notice one joint push out while I was holding it together. This happened a couple of times, making me an 1/8" off. You need to stare at the joint the hole time you're holding it, because you can't correct it.

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I had a hard time getting it all worked out. There are a lot more variables than would seem. I ended up forgetting a union above the gate valve. Whoops. Below was how I had originally planned it out. It ended up different though. Because of ball valve and union placement, I was forced to do something different.

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This is what I ended up with....
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This is the best I could do to keep as much pipe out of the way of the skimmer and openings over the sump. I ended up having to turn the return pump around to get the right angle. The return is 3/4 and the COR 15 comes with a 1 1/4 union which I put a reducer down to 1" which complies with my WEIR check valve, 1" flow meter, and 1" ball valve, then reduced to 3/4 right at the bulkhead.
 

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