Ok thanks. This is a new reefer with way too much money and not enough patience. But I know most of us fall in the latter category. BTW that dang anemone stung the blasto a little bit and I had to move him.
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YMMV. Municipal water companies all treat their water differently. Here in Nashvegas, the phosphates coming out of the tap are incredibly high IME. I couldn't use tap at all when I did freshwater without major algal blooms. When I went to reef, I just decided to pony up the money to my LFS for water until I could afford a decent RODI unit.
http://reef2reef.com/threads/remote-very-deep-sandbed.252602/#post-2980163
When *not* to rinse a sandbed, by design.
Any fair sandbed control thread needs example of planning that allows for the opposing method when it's this functional. I'm fully skeptical of claims about natural nitrate reduction, I think it doesn't occur in the typical reef arrangement to the point we can measure, as in live rock alone digesting nitrate.
But John M Cole had marine blocks, that's a special zone specifically designed for these elusives to colonize
Wiz has a real sandbed whose cross section pic after years of running shows no need for invasion, and there are also no fish blasting waste into his sandbed...the remote dsb is an ideal way to employ one and add more diversity to watch and learn than any rinsed sandbed
The reason we blast rinse most of the beds in this thread is only because the were the tank diaper.
Thanks for posting! Your tank looks super clean, I think your new and bright lighting is helping that more than anything and the fact the tank is newer, and awaiting deposition of actively competing organisms against that (biofilms, coralline, corals, grazers) whether its cyano or the spirulina TW has idenitified that looks similar.
Neither requires specific ID to be beaten via hand cleaning but specific ID is fun biology because topically they do look similar.
The shot directly above this one is exactly natural, having some of the organism in balance like that is natural, to be free of it is the unnatural mode so its a challenge for us to get there sometimes. I can rip clean my tank anytime so its not battle for me, but for large tankers yes (a rip cleaning of the whole system really sustains invader removal, removal of the invader alone often requires more re work)
your invader area collects in the flow catch zone where light detritus winds up I bet... a little feed=a little organism to make use of the new substrate (feed is a substrate too)
even when my aged tank is hands off and a little dirty due to lax work, my cyano stays gone off rocks and sand, via repeated removal. Some will develop lightly on the glass to indicate need for a catch-up cleaning, but hand guiding is how I beat it out of my tank it took no dosers or nutrient chasing (easier said for smaller systems agreed)
that organism to-be-ID'd (cyano or spiru) has a specific set of animals that feed upon it in the wild, so its ability to make use of bright white lighting (bluer selects a little less invader growth but that may not be pleasing to everyones eye etc) or non grazing doesn't imply anything is wrong with your tank, you'll have to arm graze it until natural methods take over.
keep hand removing as part of tank maturation and guidance. it lessens over time, and I wouldn't dose anything to the water for it either although its harmless if you want to.
I noticed in your sandbed cross section its clean and not choked up with waste, the cyano tbd seems to simply be doing its thing in a maturing tank and going where flow permits
Among harmless cheats that work against that invader, UV correctly sized sure would, and you don't have to use it forever...it too can be a temp guide to lessen your work.
hand remove it well and drop that light intensity and photoperiod until corals command it