t5Nitro
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Just adding to the thread, my blue plus 150 OR3 bar stopped working today. Purchased new march 2022. Looks to be about the timeline everyone is getting from them. Probably not the most reliable units in terms of longevity.
Orphek Or3 Blue+ stopped working
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How to repair the diodes any instructions? My OR3 UV 120 stopped and it's about 1.5 years old.
Rabidsquirrel
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Fairly simple. Un-solder the bad diodes. You can find them with a multimeter. From there you can either just use a piece of wire or you can replace them with a new diode from here.
Yep, they're on my do not buy list now. It's a shame, I like the packaging, and how slim the bar is. But I only got 13 months out of one of my lights.
oreo54
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I wouldn't rule out the drivers going bad.
Unfortunately many are sort of "odd" electrical-wise and its not easy finding a substitute "exactly" like the original driver.
Since most are series/parallel strings usually only one branch fails open.
Driver for the 120..900mA is divided between 2 strands.. IF all the leds are out it is likely the driver.
Smaller models are all one strand so it doesn't apply.
As to individual leds yea just put a digital multimeter (pretty sure old analogs dont work) across the diode with the correct positive and negative. Led should glow dimly (maybe REALLY hard and not exactly safe to see w/ any true UV diodes) when set to either low ohms or diode function.
| 60W | DC 30-65V | 900mA |
For the 120 one could use the Meanwell LCM-60U with some "BUTS".
Original driver goes up to 65V @900mA. Meanwell is ether 2-72 @700mA (losing 200mA) or "possibly"
900mA at 2-56V.
The voltage will go to whatever is needed to get to the set point.
You would need to measure the voltage/current to determine IF it will run "normally" at 56V.
Good thing though is you add dimming.. :)
Last edited:
Yeah it's hard to find. I tried one from Led supply but didn't work.I wouldn't rule out the drivers going bad.
Unfortunately many are sort of "odd" electrical-wise and its not easy finding a substitute "exactly" like the original driver.
Since most are series/parallel strings usually only one branch fails open.
Driver for the 120..900mA is divided between 2 strands.. IF all the leds are out it is likely the driver.
Smaller models are all one strand so it doesn't apply.
As to individual leds yea just put a digital multimeter (pretty sure old analogs dont work) across the diode with the correct positive and negative. Led should glow dimly (maybe REALLY hard and not exactly safe to see w/ any true UV diodes) when set to either low ohms or diode function.
60W DC 30-65V 900mA
oreo54
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Hmm which one?
120 is 36 leds right?
This will be 2 strands of 18.
Roughly 18 x3.6(guesstimation of average) =64.8V and 450mA per side.
So looks like the 900mA switch wouldn't work.
Rabidsquirrel
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HLG-120H-C1050A should do it if I'm reading the cut sheet right. The A models let you adjust the current.
Rabidsquirrel
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Lost my other Orphek light bar at 18 months. Don't really care enough to figure out why right now, all I know is I won't buy another one of their products again.
I've got some LED diodes epoxied to an aluminum heat sink going on 8 years now without a failure of the diodes or the drivers. No excuse for a professional product not to last a decent amount of time.
I've got some LED diodes epoxied to an aluminum heat sink going on 8 years now without a failure of the diodes or the drivers. No excuse for a professional product not to last a decent amount of time.
t5Nitro
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FWIW, the led bar I had that failed is not a power supply problem. It doesn't work connected to the power supply to the bar that continues to work.
The issue must be more complicated to fix. Anywhere people are taking these to recycle or are they fine to go in the trash?
The issue must be more complicated to fix. Anywhere people are taking these to recycle or are they fine to go in the trash?
Borat
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Here's a trick: when you order/buy those lights - just specify the delivery address to be the local waste disposal centre.. Job done!
Yeah, I too am at the point of trashing or making better repairs. In my case the diodes keep failing. First one failed so I put a jumper wire across it - 2nd one failed short time later on opposite bank so I jumped it too. Then it ran for about 6 months and I've lost 2 more diodes. Wish I knew the exact ones to order and try to repair - otherwise it goes to recycling
t5Nitro
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Ok good to know. I’ll take it to my local city recycling place and throw it in one of their dumpsters. Is the bar itself good for any reason for parts for someone to not toss it? Seems like not but just making sure someone could maybe use something.
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Rabidsquirrel
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Can almost guarantee that it's a failed diode. I still have mine squirreled away for a future project somewhere.
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