'Pairing' Wrasses: That's Not How Any of this Works!

[Confuse]

I would just like to give this article a bump because once again, my wrasse pairs are giving me grief. I too used to be one of those people who thought that the only way terminal males would stay vibrant (or sub males turn into terminal males) was only by pairing them together. But as you can see from @evolved's article, this is not so and it can cause more issues than it's worth, especially for smaller tanks. Several years ago, I bought two female flame wrasses in hopes of one turning male. Well, over the span of a year or so, it did! I was thrilled! However, fast forward another year, and the female now begins to transition to male. Now my old terminal male is being picked on by the new terminal male, and as a consequence of visible stress, some of my other wrasses who have never messed with the old terminal male are intimidating him because he was pushed to a corner. While my terminal male and female blue star pair is thriving, the male has a tendency to sporadically chase the female.

And the next growing pain? My terminal male pintail and female pintail who is starting to get bigger and show off more coloration! ;[

So learn from my cautionary tale and take into consideration of what you may get into in the future!

 

[mfinn]

I've had 4 leopards in my 240 for about 9-10 months. 2 female meleagris, and 2 bipartitus, one of which starting turning male almost right out of quarantine.
But about a month ago I didn't see one of the meleagris at all during the day. I didn't really notice alot of aggression from the turning bipartitus, but there was some. But a month ago was the last I've seen of her.
Now in the last week the male bipartitus is really going after the remaining female meleagris. Some days I only see her in the morning. So I've taken to feeding a little when I see her.
The male does harass the female bipartitus, but not very much. More of a reminder of who the boss is type aggression.
My thoughts are to remove the male, if I can.

 

[evolved]

But a month ago was the last I've seen of her.

I wouldn't totally count her out.

My thoughts are to remove the male, if I can.

Probably for the best, as much as it sucks.

 

[The Reefing Scotsman]

Hi @evolved , there has not been any mention of the genus Anampses in the discussion so far. I have read that they very seldom transition in captivity. Is this correct? If so, are they candidates to be kept in pairs or small groups?
Thanks.

 

[azbigjohn]

Great article Hunter!

I clearly remember listening to you practice this presentation at a FRAG meeting before MACNA last year!

 

[Fr0stguard]

My only success with having my 18 to 20 wrasses in my 250gal was to go mostly Male excluding 2 I just couldn't find as Male in healthy condition as lfs' (not sure what gender my green coris, yellow coris, six line and melanarus genders are). Aswell as having no one similar subspecies

 

[Kengar]

as a fan of the chirrilabrus species, I want a linneatus male when I got my 250 up and running. Other recommendations to go with it? Rhomboid? Scott's? Thanks.

 

[ironeagle2006]

I have a now bonded pair of bird wrasses. They sure as crabapples weren't bonded when I bought them last year. The female was put into my tank first followed by a month later by a very nice sized male. It took a few weeks and a couple broke fins but they've paired up to the point that they bury themselves side by side in my sand bed about 2 inches apart. My other wrasse is a beautiful Formosa that I got as a juvi was told it was a red coriss now she markings are for a female is over 5 inches long.

 

[Brian1f1]

Great article. Had no idea leopards weren’t always the exception to have multiple wrasses of the same species. Had seen many posts with multiple leopards. Have had two female bipartitus for about two months. The larger became super aggressive towards the smaller after a move from a 46 quart one to the 120 display. Was about to try to pull when suddenly they became super friendly, staying together, with no aggression again. This friendly peace has lasted a couple weeks now. Very bizarre. The larger outwardly hasn’t transitioned at all. Fingers crossed.

 

[saltyhog]

I would avoid the Scott's. One of the most aggressive fairies.

Is your tank 250 gallon or a Red Sea 250? If the latter you might have a problem with the Lineatus and Rhomboid.

Check this article also by Hunter. https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/c...feriority-need-not-apply-1st-revision.322326/

 

[MnFish1]

'Pairing' Wrasses: That's Not How Any of this Works!

It is something I read often: “Where can I buy a female for my male ____ wrasse?” Or: “I want to buy another ____ wrasse and pair them up!” Wait! Time out for a minute!

First, we really need some understanding of how wrasses interact and live in their natural environment. In the ocean, most genera of wrasses live in harems, which consists of a group of females to one dominant male. Often, there are a few transitional males in this group as well, which are essentially males-in-waiting – waiting for their chance to overtake the current or become the new dominant male. Within this harem, there is an established hierarchy. The hierarchy exists by the dominance of the terminal male and submission of the females and transitional males. It is this last part which is key; there are no bonded or mated relationships. Quite simply, wrasses do not form pairs! Think similar to Anthias here; not like Clownfish.

A Natural Harem of Filamented Flashers Wrasses, Dominant Male in Center. (a few other species are also present here, notably female C. cyanopleura)

Now, let us go a step further and explore the female-male aspect. Wrasses are protogynous hermaphrodites. Settled as a juvenile, they all start as female. Females then transition to male in the wild as harem conditions and the environment allow. As females transition, they become a transitional male, or sometimes called a sub-male. At the sub-male phase, a reversal back to female is technically possible and occasionally happens. If the transition progresses, eventually the state of terminal male is reached. It is at this point the process is, in fact, terminal; reversal back to female is not possible.

Essentially, all the females in the harem are continuously attempting to become a transitional and eventually dominant male. It is only the hierarchy, and mostly the current dominant male, who prevent this with overriding behavior. The sub males in the harem wait, until the dominant male perishes or until a sub male can out rival the dominant male when challenged. In many ways, it is a lot like a king on a throne; there cannot be a new king until the old one is removed or leaves the throne. And everyone wants to be king!

In aquaria, it is rather difficult to successfully duplicate nature. All females tend to eventually transition to male, regardless of the presence of a more dominant male. Often, when this occurs in the presence of a dominant male, the new male may end up with best coloration. However, the survival of the old male is always questionable. Sometimes removal of one male becomes necessary for obvious aggression. For these reasons, I no longer bother with more than one wrasse of a single species. I have attempted to keep a male/female pair/trio from the Cirrhilabrus, Halichoeres, and Paracheilinus genera, only to always result in all females turning to male with time. On more than one occasion in both the Cirrhilabrus and Halichoeres genera, I have had males/females spawning with regularity, only for the females to transition to male a few months down the road. It simply is not worth the effort and enduing frustration to attempt these pairs/trios/harems in captivity for the casual reefer.

As an alternative to keeping pairs/trios/harems of wrasses in aquaria, an aquarist may wish to keep single wrasses of each species mixed with others. So long as selections are made carefully, avoiding certain species and in accords with some simple guidelines, the results will be rewarding. Each wrasse is highly likely to eventually transition to male, providing the best coloration. As an added bonus, the hierarchy of the mixed group lends to displays of finnage and “flashing” of colors on frequent occasions for delightful viewing. However, the only catch with this approach is that some patience may be required. If wrasses are purchased as juveniles or females, it may be a while before they transition into males. This time frame is widely variable and depends not only on the fish’s age and maturity but also the hierarchy established amongst the tank mates. The timing is complicated, but it could be as short as a few weeks to as long as many, many months.

So please, don’t try to ‘pair’ your wrasses! At best, it may work for a while, but even in those circumstances time is unfortunately against you. Nature always finds a way!

A Group of Three Female Macropharyngodon bipartitus.

If nature always finds a way, why would 2 wrasses in an aquarium eventually both become male? Unless I misunderstood your point.

 

[Brian1f1]

If nature always finds a way, why would 2 wrasses in an aquarium eventually both become male? Unless I misunderstood your point.

Maybe he means that nature always find a way to kill you or your fish. Or maybe he just really likes JP.

 

[Stigigemla]

I believe many dry foods is containing male sex hormone in order to get the fishes to color up better.
For those who are trying to keep harems I would recommend to use only frozen or live foods.
(I read about an Indonesian exporter feeding mixed wrasse females with flakes in order to color up so he could determine the species before export).

 

[Bluelobstor]

I recently bought 5 Lubbocks wrasse in an attempt to setup a harem, but they are all male. I got them from live Aquaria and they did not specify whether they would be male or female. This was before I found this article about fairy wrasses eventually turning male in captivity. I think I remember reading that the Lubbocks clade was rather peaceful and that multiple males together is not uncommon in the wild. Right now they are in a 55gallon quarantine together with zero aggression between them and has been this way from the beginning, has been about 2 weeks. Is what I read true and am I asking for trouble down the road as all are male although I would suspect they would be fighting now if there was going to be trouble but I know circumstances can change later on? They would be the only wrasse in a 75gallon tank with other super peaceful tank mates.
Thanks Jason

 

[eatbreakfast]

A group of 5 lubbocki will not work longterm in a 75g. I have seen groups work in larger tanks, but have seen groups fail in your size tank.

 

[Bluelobstor]

Thanks. How many would work and what size tank would be minimum for the 5. I could split them up. I have a 125gallon that is 6 ft and a 180gallon that is 5ft, neither setup at the moment. After reading " all about reef safe wrasses in Aquaria" I think I might make the 125 a wrasse tank. Even though the 180 is bigger, it is taller and has less footprint size than the 125. These are wonderful articles and I really appreciate the work that went into them and the help that you and others are willing to give.

Jason

 

[eatbreakfast]

Thanks. How many would work and what size tank would be minimum for the 5. I could split them up. I have a 125gallon that is 6 ft and a 180gallon that is 5ft, neither setup at the moment. After reading " all about reef safe wrasses in Aquaria" I think I might make the 125 a wrasse tank. Even though the 180 is bigger, it is taller and has less footprint size than the 125. These are wonderful articles and I really appreciate the work that went into them and the help that you and others are willing to give.

Jason

Unless there is only going to be 1 per tank, it would be better to keep all 5 together in the tank with the biggest footprint.

 

[Bluelobstor]

Thanks TJ will do. I will see which tank has biggest surface area.
Jason

 

[evolved]

Just a bit behind on this one... sorry.

Hi @evolved , there has not been any mention of the genus Anampses in the discussion so far. I have read that they very seldom transition in captivity. Is this correct? If so, are they candidates to be kept in pairs or small groups?
Thanks.

Anampses transitions are definitely the most inconsistent, and there's very little chance of offering any decent odds on predicting it. Keeping them in a group is a bit safer like Macropharyngodon, but there are still no guarantees.

Great article Hunter!

I clearly remember listening to you practice this presentation at a FRAG meeting before MACNA last year!

Thanks John. But that was actually a slightly different presentation.

as a fan of the chirrilabrus species, I want a linneatus male when I got my 250 up and running. Other recommendations to go with it? Rhomboid? Scott's? Thanks.

For that, I refer you here (but it looks like someone else already did): https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/c...feriority-need-not-apply-1st-revision.322326/

I have a now bonded pair of bird wrasses. They sure as crabapples weren't bonded when I bought them last year. The female was put into my tank first followed by a month later by a very nice sized male. It took a few weeks and a couple broke fins but they've paired up to the point that they bury themselves side by side in my sand bed about 2 inches apart. My other wrasse is a beautiful Formosa that I got as a juvi was told it was a red coriss now she markings are for a female is over 5 inches long.

Bird wrasses are a bit different, but not so reef safe either. Not a species I'd consider for a home reef tank.

Great article. Had no idea leopards weren’t always the exception to have multiple wrasses of the same species. Had seen many posts with multiple leopards. Have had two female bipartitus for about two months. The larger became super aggressive towards the smaller after a move from a 46 quart one to the 120 display. Was about to try to pull when suddenly they became super friendly, staying together, with no aggression again. This friendly peace has lasted a couple weeks now. Very bizarre. The larger outwardly hasn’t transitioned at all. Fingers crossed.

Macropharyngodon are really all over the map when it comes to transitioning. Sometimes they do, sometimes they don't, and sometimes they won't for years and then just all of a sudden... And sometimes the new male decides to kill all the other leopards, regardless if they're male or female.
It's pretty much a complete crap shoot if you go down that path.

If nature always finds a way, why would 2 wrasses in an aquarium eventually both become male? Unless I misunderstood your point.

When the primary natural drive is to become male so you can breed with females unless another male can stop you, bad things happen...

I believe many dry foods is containing male sex hormone in order to get the fishes to color up better.
For those who are trying to keep harems I would recommend to use only frozen or live foods.
(I read about an Indonesian exporter feeding mixed wrasse females with flakes in order to color up so he could determine the species before export).

Just my opinion here, but I see no truth in that tale. Sounds like fiction to me. Plenty of people use only frozen foods and get the same all-go-male result.

I recently bought 5 Lubbocks wrasse in an attempt to setup a harem, but they are all male. I got them from live Aquaria and they did not specify whether they would be male or female. This was before I found this article about fairy wrasses eventually turning male in captivity. I think I remember reading that the Lubbocks clade was rather peaceful and that multiple males together is not uncommon in the wild. Right now they are in a 55gallon quarantine together with zero aggression between them and has been this way from the beginning, has been about 2 weeks. Is what I read true and am I asking for trouble down the road as all are male although I would suspect they would be fighting now if there was going to be trouble but I know circumstances can change later on? They would be the only wrasse in a 75gallon tank with other super peaceful tank mates.
Thanks Jason

A group of 5 lubbocki will not work longterm in a 75g. I have seen groups work in larger tanks, but have seen groups fail in your size tank.

Yup

Unless there is only going to be 1 per tank, it would be better to keep all 5 together in the tank with the biggest footprint.

And agree.

 

[A Toadstool Leather]

I assume wrasses dont transform unless there are others nearby? There is a tank with a single female leopard wrasse where I worked and I assume it will stay female? How can you tell between sub male and female?