I acclimated a Rainbow Monti from a PAR value of 100 to 200, and the coral lost its magnificent coloration - it is now an ugly brown. On the other hand, a grafted cappy is now growing like a weed. Thoughts?
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Thanks! I'll keep an eye on it and see how it ultimately responds. M. efflorescens contains Clade C3 proteins. I'll log these observations into the data base.Montipora monasteriata might do better in 300-450 par. Killed mine with a doser mishap awhile back, so no pictures but my rainbow didn’t really grow till i moved further up. Had it around 325 measured with a seneye.
Dana, curious as to what type of lighting you have on your main tank.Thanks! I'll keep an eye on it and see how it ultimately responds. M. efflorescens contains Clade C3 proteins. I'll log these observations into the data base.
This tank has two ReeFis. Correction: Max. PAR is 250. I think the problem is my acclimation protocol and particular corals' sensitivities, not the light itself. I have time course PAR numbers and will post later (not sure where I saved that file.)Dana, curious as to what type of lighting you have on your main tank.
Have you ever considered going hybrid? I am not one to talk about lighting, and I don’t even measure PAR, but I blast my small tank with too much LED (maxspect R420R) and supplement with (T5 ATI) Blue+. I don’t really acclimate. I turn off T5 to acclimate and keep LED the same. But have no experience with rainbow monti. Just my 2¢This tank has two ReeFis. Correction: Max. PAR is 250. I think the problem is my acclimation protocol and particular corals' sensitivities, not the light itself. I have time course PAR numbers and will post later (not sure where I saved that file.)
I haven't considered a hybrid set up. Thanks for the reply and be careful picking those opihi!Have you ever considered going hybrid? I am not one to talk about lighting, and I don’t even measure PAR, but I blast my small tank with too much LED (maxspect R420R) and supplement with (T5 ATI) Blue+. I don’t really acclimate. I turn off T5 to acclimate and keep LED the same. But have no experience with rainbow monti. Just my 2¢
Thanks - had it for months and it was beautiful. Changed the light intensity and it bleached. Thought it was dead but looked closely yesterday and it's regained it zoox, so it is brown with no other color. I'll give it some time and see what happens.Those do OK from about 100/200 to about 1000 PAR with mercury... probably should stop at 400, or so, under LED. If you are having coloration issues, then look to water quality and spectrum quality... spectrum quantity is not your issue. If you just got it, then give it time.
Not to get off topic but I’d pick opihi when I was a teenager. But nearly 40, I won’t go near them again. They’re tough as nails. Me, not so much so now.I haven't considered a hybrid set up. Thanks for the reply and be careful picking those opihi!
When I lived in Hawaii, there would be occasional reports of opihi pickers being washed away in the surf. Gotta respect the ocean.Not to get off topic but I’d pick opihi when I was a teenager. But nearly 40, I won’t go near them again. They’re tough as nails. Me, not so much so now.
Thanks - Phosphate (as P) is 0.03 mg/L, about as high as it has ever been in that tank.I have one doing well in 300 peak PAR from orpheks, however that par only peaks for a couple hours and is pretty white spectrum. I have personally found nutrients more impactful than lighting though. Particularly phosphate for browning out.
As opihi started to become rarer and a delicacy, they were harder to come by and people would risk their lives for them. They used to be like aiptaisa until they were all harvested. I believe the harvest of them were restricted on Oahu eventually.When I lived in Hawaii, there would be occasional reports of opihi pickers being washed away in the surf. Gotta respect the ocean.
Thanks - Phosphate (as P) is 0.03 mg/L, about as high as it has ever been in that tank.