PAR readings help

Seanbugeja

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I just finished setting up my red sea nano G2 xxl and tested the light intensity using a par meter.

Im getting about 120 PAR on the sand bed, 150 to 180 PAR in the middle of my aquascape and a maximum of 220 PAR near the top of my aquascape.

I'm fairly disappointed with the PAR im getting at the top as ive read SPS need 250+ lighting. There is no way of moving the reefled 60 closer to the water surface unfortunately. Do you all think this will be a problem in the future? Thanks
76b4cffc-4ab7-43f7-8817-716836b7e7c6.jpg
 
Both lights are running 15k lighting at 100%
This is the marketing data for 1 light.

Specifications
Dimensions: 4.7" x 4.7" x 2"
Power Consumption: 60W
PAR at Surface: ~500
PAR at 20" Depth: ~100
Control: ReefBeat App

What's Included?
ReefLED G2 60 Light Fixture
Power Supply

What par meter did you use?
Not saying its right or wrong... just info.

120 total watts over 53 gallons.
 
Both lights are running 15k lighting at 100%
This is the marketing data for 1 light.

Specifications
Dimensions: 4.7" x 4.7" x 2"
Power Consumption: 60W
PAR at Surface: ~500
PAR at 20" Depth: ~100
Control: ReefBeat App

What's Included?
ReefLED G2 60 Light Fixture
Power Supply

What par meter did you use?
Not saying its right or wrong... just info.

120 total watts over 53 gallons.
Danoplus par meter. 🙂
 
Sounds okay for sps to me. When people say you need more than 250 par, they are talking about for peak coloration, mostly for Acropora. There are many sps coral that will do fine in the 150-200 par range, including Acropora. Flow also plays a big part with lighting, and with higher par, there should be higher flow.
 
Danoplus par meter. 🙂
The PAR suggestions you see are generally based on readings with an Apogee 510. Other PAR meters can have very different readings, so you have to adjust them so that you're (generally) comparing apples to apples.

For the Danoplus, you're looking at an adjustment of roughly 1.6X. Discussion here:
https://humble.fish/community/threads/par-meter-comparison.22472/page-2
So, your 220 PAR measurement would roughly equate to 352 PAR. 120 on the sandbed would be 192.

(I would also research and try to find whether running them at 100% is a good idea. I know for some lights (e.g., the Orphek iCon), running them at 100% has been known to burn out the LEDs quickly.)
 
The PAR suggestions you see are generally based on readings with an Apogee 510. Other PAR meters can have very different readings, so you have to adjust them so that you're (generally) comparing apples to apples.

For the Danoplus, you're looking at an adjustment of roughly 1.6X. Discussion here:
https://humble.fish/community/threads/par-meter-comparison.22472/page-2
So, your 220 PAR measurement would roughly equate to 352 PAR. 120 on the sandbed would be 192.

(I would also research and try to find whether running them at 100% is a good idea. I know for some lights (e.g., the Orphek iCon), running them at 100% has been known to burn out the LEDs quickly.)
When you multiply the reading by 1.6 is that for the danoplus with the green dot on the box or both because I haven’t got the green dot on my par meter box
 
Sounds okay for sps to me. When people say you need more than 250 par, they are talking about for peak coloration, mostly for Acropora. There are many sps coral that will do fine in the 150-200 par range, including Acropora. Flow also plays a big part with lighting, and with higher par, there should be higher flow.
My whole belief in Par was shaken to the Core when I saw a Tank at my LFS that was at least 24 inches deep with dark blue light. The Coral sps and lps were thriving
 

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