Parameters are off and sps are not happy

[Syntax1235]

I've got a 180 gallon mainly sps tank that has been doing very well until about a month or so ago The colors of my acros slowly lightened and a couple of them almost bleached. I attributed the issue to low potassium and have been dosing quite a bit. Come to find out that my Triton ICP reported Potassium to be 490, a new potassium kit confirmed the high readings as well. I was basing my correction on a faulty test kit... as my corals started to look worse I added more potassium, I finally started to question the accuracy of my test kit and backed off of the potassium until the ICP test results came back. Well, I'm now in a mode to balance my tank with multiple water changes.

I also found that I have elevated Lanthanum and I can't figure out where it has come from. I had a gyre impeller rust in my tank, I think I caught it fairly early... could that be the issue?

I also added a single small rock that I have been treating with pool phosphate remover in a bucket for the past few weeks... I rinsed the rock very well before putting in my tank, I can't see how that could be the issue, but I guess its possible.

I just finished a 30 gallon water change, Triton recommends that I complete 6 weekly 30 gallon water changes. I'm hoping the water changes will lower my calcium and mag and raise strontium a bit as well.

Any thoughts?

 

[Joe Batt]

Lanthanum is used as a phosphate remover in pools, so there is certainly a possibility there. I am also using it (in a floss filter sock, to keep flocks in the sock as much a possible) in order to remove the phosphates from some new cycling cleaned dry rock.

 

[Jason mack]

I would say that it was probably the rust in your tank , I would follow tritons advice , it sorted my tank out when I had similar problems !

 

[Want2BS8ed]

I would say that it was probably the rust in your tank , I would follow tritons advice , it sorted my tank out when I had similar problems !

+1 on the water changes...

 

[Syntax1235]

I’m going to perform 2, 30 gallon water changes today and then spread them out. Hopefully that will lower my potassium and Lanthanum enough for them to become less problematic.

I’m not sure if the impeller rusting is the source of the Lanthanum. I would expect other heavy metals if that was the case?

 

[Jason mack]

Triton will give you an example or possible causes from where the contamination came from in the advice or actions section

 

[CapAquaATX]

Lanthanum 100% came from that pool phosphate remover (Lanthanum Chloride). Potassium can definitely kill SPS corals and you'll need to bring that level down with water changes. Triton's suggestion of weekly water changes seems right on and I'd just make sure the saltwater I was making up had similar alkalinity, calcium, magnesium, etc as my tank to not stress things further. You should be able to save everything but it will take a good while for them to color back up.

 

[Syntax1235]

I just was looking back at my notes and discovered that I took my water sample from on 2/20... I placed the rock in the tank treated with Seaclear (and rinsed very well) the next day. The LA can not be from that rock... Could the gyre impellar contain LA? It's the only logical source.

 

[Jason mack]

Have you been dosing trace elements of any sort , that could have resulted in an overdose of some kind .. I’m not sure about the LA from the impeller ..

 

[Syntax1235]

Have you been dosing trace elements of any sort , that could have resulted in an overdose of some kind .. I’m not sure about the LA from the impeller ..

Only Potassium and Triton kore 7

 

[Tim@Triton]

Lanthanum is usually from liquid phosphate removers and can take a long time to leave the system if not removed via water changes, have you used and liquid phosphate removers on that system in the past?

Removal is pretty simple via water changes with good quality salt, we recommend using Tropic Marin Pro or Red Sea blue bucket.

 

[Syntax1235]

Lanthanum is usually from liquid phosphate removers and can take a long time to leave the system if not removed via water changes, have you used and liquid phosphate removers on that system in the past?

Removal is pretty simple via water changes with good quality salt, we recommend using Tropic Marin Pro or Red Sea blue bucket.

Thank you Tim.

All the rock in my tank was old used rock that I conditioned in large containers using Sea Clear phosphate remover, and rinsed very well before being placed in the tank. The tank has been running for over a year, my first icp test came back with 0 LA in the tank a few months after it being set up.

I did place a 1 pound rock in the tank that was treated with the same product over two weeks ago; however, it was AFTER I took the water sample for my latest test.

I have been feeding a lot of frozen food lately due to low nutrients, this can also be a source as Triton has suggested.

I believe the coral issues are attributed to the high K, at the time of the test was 490 and I even increased the dose after due to the faulty readings I was given on my previous K test. I’m sure the K was over 500 before I realized what was going on. I’ve stopped dosing K and have performed two 30 gallon water changes yesterday with TMPR. I’ll perform the other 4 water changes in the coming weeks via Tritons recommendations of 6 15% weekly water changes. I hope to see some improvement from these two changes..... LA should be around 3 micrograms/l and K tested at 460.... these are not ideal but should begin to help.

 

[Syntax1235]

Does anyone have any information on the effects of Potassium over 500 on sps? I have performed two 30 and one 45 gallon water change in the past few days.... My Potassium is now around 450 and other parameters are solid: Alk: 8.1 / CA: 460 / MG: 1350....

Any advice besides patience on recovery?

 

[Jason mack]

#reefaquad .. anyone help here ??