Pink Tabling acro Frag turning Green
- Thread starter Dilan Patel
- Start date
- Tagged users None
Your difficulty was with bleaching though , correct?I have been doing a lot of reading on this subject recently and concluded I had too much light. Look at my readings from my PMK.
Note the averages.
Before adjustments
After
The PMK is directly centered under my Kessil AP700, 10" below water, fixture is 8.5" above water, with two ATI Blue Plus T5s. Although I was getting ok color and great growth the adjustment seems to get better colors all over my tank and growth seems the same, in a good way.
I will be using this as a reference for others using the AP700. Which for me peaks at 50% for 8 hours and T5s for 10.
Yea it is pretty wild. Many years ago Riddle published too much light I'm sure you've read.
The oddity I see is tanks using close to sea level par ranges with zero problems and amazing growth and color. That's my personal head scratcher.
On greening, I had acros too close to at mostly lit on one side by blue only led. The rest was covered by a mh. That was my first experience with that phenomenon. No other corals were effected. I moved other acros to the same spot and it was repeated as well.
I would assertain it's an overdose a specific wavelength rather than overall intensity.
I repeated the experiment recently but did not use more blue just my same mix but for a longer duration. I greened many of them this time. My conclusion is there is too much blue in many leds.
Fwiw my color meter reads a 20k metal halide at 20k. A current orbit marine at 20k. But my sbreeflight and ai sol's give an error for too high a Ct. despite both leds being advertised at 16k and 14k native at 1:1 ratios.
No not recently, the bleaching and slow growth was cured by increasing my PO4 and NO3 through dosing and feeding. I adjusted my lights recently for better colors, two different things but I can see how you made that connection. They are closely related and I've talk about the bleaching far more in the past.
KJoFan
Valuable Member
I think what we're learning here is reefing is hard. No one thing/theory/idea applies to all tanks in the same way and the joy can actually be sucked out of the hobby with all this "precision" reefing.
That being said, I am interested to see what helps the OP pull his sps out of it's green phase, so I'll keep tagging along.
That being said, I am interested to see what helps the OP pull his sps out of it's green phase, so I'll keep tagging along.
sure here is one from the store: And you can see the wicked polyp extension of the frag and the main colony.
Now at my Tank for a while now: no polyp extension as well.
Hi Dilan. This thread has gotten a little out of control.
What is on the rock to the right of this frag?
Lack of PE may be because you have a nipper or it may be water quality issues. Color change may be due to stress, or lighting change. Do you know if this was a wild frag or aquacultured and in the hobby for a while? It's fairly normal for wild or maricultured frags to have issues adjusting to tank life. I have a maricultured valida that adjusted quickly and is now huge, but another maricultured frag, which was blue and white, turned brown and while growing fast is still poop brown over a year later.
Things often have polyp atrophy when stressed and adapting to new tanks. Acros also turn green/brown sometimes as well. The fact it's great doesn't mean anything. I have acros that turned green, started growing very well, and will stay green for a while before they regain their color. It's very much acro dependent. I wouldn't change anything and just be patient for a while unless your tanks not stable. If it's stable, just wait, it will take off eventually. The more you fiddle the less likely you'll ever find a reason or know if there really was a problem to start with. IMO.sure here is one from the store: And you can see the wicked polyp extension of the frag and the main colony.
Now at my Tank for a while now: no polyp extension as well.
Nice post!!Hi Dilan. This thread has gotten a little out of control.
What is on the rock to the right of this frag?
Lack of PE may be because you have a nipper or it may be water quality issues. Color change may be due to stress, or lighting change. Do you know if this was a wild frag or aquacultured and in the hobby for a while? It's fairly normal for wild or maricultured frags to have issues adjusting to tank life. I have a maricultured valida that adjusted quickly and is now huge, but another maricultured frag, which was blue and white, turned brown and while growing fast is still poop brown over a year later.
OP
OP
Dilan Patel
2500 Club Member
Hi Dilan. This thread has gotten a little out of control.
What is on the rock to the right of this frag?
Lack of PE may be because you have a nipper or it may be water quality issues. Color change may be due to stress, or lighting change. Do you know if this was a wild frag or aquacultured and in the hobby for a while? It's fairly normal for wild or maricultured frags to have issues adjusting to tank life. I have a maricultured valida that adjusted quickly and is now huge, but another maricultured frag, which was blue and white, turned brown and while growing fast is still poop brown over a year later.
I have been battling polyp extension for awhile in both tanks but I do believe I found my problem which could be red bugs I spotted on a dead coral of mine a couple days ago(I was out of town and this was a frag I got a day or two before I left). The only nipper that could be in the tank would be a foxface lo but I highly doubt that. This frag I got off a colony from Vivi daquariums. I was actually at the store and picked this specific piece. So i would think it was aquacultured.
OP
OP
Dilan Patel
2500 Club Member
He is on the top most rock to the side of the kessil
OP
OP
Dilan Patel
2500 Club Member
I would have to see if the LFS has one I could borrow. Or I might end up purchasing a seneye. Any review on the Seneye monitor?
You can also use a lux meter and devide by 60. It's pretty close.
OP
OP
Dilan Patel
2500 Club Member
i have seen them but am still trying to figure out which method is safest in the tank.
For red bugs in tank treatment using Interceptor is the safest. It will kill inverts like shrimp and crabs so remove if at all possible. Usually two treatments is enough. Many vets will sell you interceptor if you tell then how it will be used, otherwise you'll have to take your chances buying it from non US sellers.
If you are serious about SPS, especially acros, start dipping all new frags using a safe dip like Bayer. There should be plenty of threads here and elsewhere describing how to do it. Google is your friend. Acropora Bayer Interceptor Red Bugs, AEFW will tell you all you need to know about acro issues and how to treat them.
Similar threads
