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- Jun 5, 2019
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I have been in the planning stages for a couple months on a new reef tank to replace my 235G Planet tank, thread of which can be found here: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/planet-235-upgrade-the-requiem-reef.985584/
The plans are more or less done and some work has been happening to get prepped for the new tank - sufficiently far enough along to start up a thread so here we go.
Tank
Sticking with Planet again for this build, my current tank is fantastic from them.
Dimensions: 84 x 48 x 25 peninsula
Volume: 430G
Full eurobrace, low iron on three sides.
Current drawing is here:
A couple things on this drawing are new for me and I am excited to work them out in a build.
I wanted a 4-foot-wide tank and with that much dimension, I had no desire to run the layout standard and struggle with reaching the back edge of the tank. So flipping to peninsula was the best way to give me this width and give me the opportunity to run "two" aquascapes. My guess is this will make it not feel like 4 feet wide at all!
I read up on several of the excellent large peninsula threads on here for the various approaches for how to handle getting adequate flow to the opposite end of the drains. With the aquascape I have in mind, running Vortechs or gyres on the open end of the tank is a total non starter. So, the plan is to run a closed loop on this tank, which I have also never done before (and quite frankly terrifies me!) The idea of having two bulkheads that are all that stands between 400G of water on the floor is a little unnerving. But the reality is bulkheads on the overflows are all that stands between 20-30G of water on the floor so what's the difference? At least that's the story I am telling myself
Stand
All of my stands have been wood to date and this is a part of the hobby I really enjoy. However, these days I am more pressed for time with work and life so I am going to go with an aluminum stand from Framingtech. I will eventually trim it out, but no decisions on those details yet.
Aquascape Design
One aquascape on here influenced me more than any other. @Smite has an amazing singular structure that gives the appearance of an overhang but is actually cleverly supported to pull off the illusion. Also, this is on a standard layout and as I mentioned above I want to pull it off on a peninsula.
Here's a natural example of the hanging reef structure with enough space for fish (!) to be able to swim under (less the sharks).
And a few others for how coral placement could work:
Other Equipment
The plan is to continue using my 80G basement sump (details can be found on my last build thread) but the tank will be a little farther away. My expectation is the Iwaki MD-100 RLT will be able to keep up but will see as we go.
The lighting will need a new canopy built but will expand on keeping Reefis as the workhorses. Also, this build: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/aquaviva-110gal-solatube-reef-tank-build.155312/ really caught my attention with using solar tubes, I am going to give at least one of those a shot and see how much full spectrum light I can get on the tank. I haven't actually installed the solar tube yet and this is the part I am most iffy on doing, but for now it's still the plan.
I will be using T5s and actinic VHO tubes for fill lighting on this tank as well as on my last system. They can pry actinic VHO from my cold dead hands (and shoutout to https://championlighting.com/ who still stocks them and said they will continue to as long as they are made). I did pick up an old Icecap 660 from eBay so I have a couple extra ballasts around for backups. I will give a more detailed writeup on the lighting when I built the fixture.
Also in this drawing below is a top-down sketch of the aquascape concept.
The plans are more or less done and some work has been happening to get prepped for the new tank - sufficiently far enough along to start up a thread so here we go.
Tank
Sticking with Planet again for this build, my current tank is fantastic from them.
Dimensions: 84 x 48 x 25 peninsula
Volume: 430G
Full eurobrace, low iron on three sides.
Current drawing is here:
A couple things on this drawing are new for me and I am excited to work them out in a build.
I wanted a 4-foot-wide tank and with that much dimension, I had no desire to run the layout standard and struggle with reaching the back edge of the tank. So flipping to peninsula was the best way to give me this width and give me the opportunity to run "two" aquascapes. My guess is this will make it not feel like 4 feet wide at all!
I read up on several of the excellent large peninsula threads on here for the various approaches for how to handle getting adequate flow to the opposite end of the drains. With the aquascape I have in mind, running Vortechs or gyres on the open end of the tank is a total non starter. So, the plan is to run a closed loop on this tank, which I have also never done before (and quite frankly terrifies me!) The idea of having two bulkheads that are all that stands between 400G of water on the floor is a little unnerving. But the reality is bulkheads on the overflows are all that stands between 20-30G of water on the floor so what's the difference? At least that's the story I am telling myself

Stand
All of my stands have been wood to date and this is a part of the hobby I really enjoy. However, these days I am more pressed for time with work and life so I am going to go with an aluminum stand from Framingtech. I will eventually trim it out, but no decisions on those details yet.
Aquascape Design
One aquascape on here influenced me more than any other. @Smite has an amazing singular structure that gives the appearance of an overhang but is actually cleverly supported to pull off the illusion. Also, this is on a standard layout and as I mentioned above I want to pull it off on a peninsula.
Here's a natural example of the hanging reef structure with enough space for fish (!) to be able to swim under (less the sharks).
And a few others for how coral placement could work:
Other Equipment
The plan is to continue using my 80G basement sump (details can be found on my last build thread) but the tank will be a little farther away. My expectation is the Iwaki MD-100 RLT will be able to keep up but will see as we go.
The lighting will need a new canopy built but will expand on keeping Reefis as the workhorses. Also, this build: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/aquaviva-110gal-solatube-reef-tank-build.155312/ really caught my attention with using solar tubes, I am going to give at least one of those a shot and see how much full spectrum light I can get on the tank. I haven't actually installed the solar tube yet and this is the part I am most iffy on doing, but for now it's still the plan.
I will be using T5s and actinic VHO tubes for fill lighting on this tank as well as on my last system. They can pry actinic VHO from my cold dead hands (and shoutout to https://championlighting.com/ who still stocks them and said they will continue to as long as they are made). I did pick up an old Icecap 660 from eBay so I have a couple extra ballasts around for backups. I will give a more detailed writeup on the lighting when I built the fixture.
Also in this drawing below is a top-down sketch of the aquascape concept.
Last edited:

. Ive been in floods so I have seen enough.
. Love the natural inspiration!



