Plumbing a 150 reef tank

Ryan99639 · Mar 16, 2016

So I have a 150 gallon setup, I am going to drill the back (which is non tempered) but I need to know what size bulkheads and how many to run for drain and return lines. So far I would like to have 2 drains going into the sump and 1 return line with a tee fitting that feeds the fuge. I have not drilled or plumbed anything please critique as much as possible I would like to do this right the first time. I am going to add pics of the setup. Thank you. Tank is a 150G 72x28x18. And there is two 20g longs undernieth for sump and fuge.

Ryan99639 · Mar 16, 2016

This is roughly what's happening. Ignore the biocube it's getting moved. Lol.

sa6hir · Mar 17, 2016

My tank is roughly the same size, I just done new plumbing on it! The standard hole size was X2 55mm with 50mm bulkheads X1 32mm with 30mm bulkhead! The holes where pre drilled! Hope that helps!

ryecoon · Mar 18, 2016

The only tip I can give is. Schedule 80 Fittings and standard Pvc Pipes do not have the same "ID" and "OD" sizes. Plumb with caution. lol

Breadman03 · Mar 18, 2016

You're already drilling. In my book, that means BeanAnimal drain system all the way. One line runs as a siphon, the second works as a durso with minimal flow, and the third stays completely dry unless there is a severe blockage. The system runs silently and with no micro bubbles. I also installed a coast to coast overflow, which promotes the greatest surface skimming possible. The only time I can hear anything is when a snail is cleaning over the back of the overflow.

Ryan99639 · Mar 18, 2016

ryecoon said:
The only tip I can give is. Schedule 80 Fittings and standard Pvc Pipes do not have the same "ID" and "OD" sizes. Plumb with caution. lol

ok thanks for the replies guys, do you have any info on different types of overflows you mentioned? also what size holes and bulkheads do you recommend ? thanks

Breadman03 · Mar 19, 2016

I used 1.5" pipe with 1" bulkheads, though that provides way more flow than I will ever need. 1" pipe would readily handle everything I need. I forget what size the holes need to be for 1" bulkheads, but glass-holes.com has the sizes posted with the bulkheads.

As far as an overflow, think about it as a major contributor to efficiency. The proteins we can skim out are most dense at the surface of the water. My coast to coast overflow is literally two pieces of glass that form a separate chamber in my display. This spans the entire back of my tank, and results in the thinnest possible section of the top of the water making its way to my skimmer. That means that the dirtiest water goes to the skimmer and optimizes efficiency.

A BeanAnimal drain is ideal because:

The siphon line is filled with water, meaning no air bubbles to make noise and runs silent.
The open channel (AKA Durso) line can only handle a small amount of water flowing against the inside of the pipe while the center is a clear air channel. This is fine with the Bean, as the siphon is easily tuned to flow just a little less than needed, resulting in a silent pair of drains. The open channel has enough of a silent range that variations in flow won't create noise issues.
But why the third pipe? You're going to drop $50+ to construct a drain that you never use. That's a waste. Well, thats because mopping really isn't fun, and you don't want to mop. That dry emergency line may be used when first starting your return pump, before the siphon can start. That drain is there so the if Justin Case stops by late at night, the water keeps flowing within your tank and you can address a clog (such as a snail that gets stuck at the drain opening) almost at your convenience instead of racing to unplug the return and getting familiar with the folks at ServPro. I'm sure they're mostly pleasant, but I'd rather not need them.

hybridazn · Mar 19, 2016

Your best bet is to get a overflow box that can incorporate the bean animal style overflow. They are pretty common now and prices have really dropped. Exotic marine makes a nice overflow that includes everything but the glass hole saws.

ryecoon · Mar 19, 2016

Ryan99639 said:
ok thanks for the replies guys, do you have any info on different types of overflows you mentioned? also what size holes and bulkheads do you recommend ? thanks

On BRS when you order bulkheads it tells you on the description what drill bit size you need to get to fit that specific size. I would go with 1" on everything. Some people go 3/4" on the return for a increased flow but thats personal preference.

Ryan99639 · Mar 19, 2016

ok awesome, thanks for the fast replies .
I'm going to do some research but I'm leaning towards the bean animal style i like all the benefits of it, anyone running this system have any pics??

Ryan99639 · Apr 2, 2016

decided to try out the bean animal setup. We will see how it goes lol

Ryan99639 · Apr 3, 2016

. Almost done with plumbing

Ryan99639 · Apr 5, 2016

ryecoon · Apr 5, 2016

Wow you went ham on that! lol Nice work. Very clean.

hybridazn · Apr 5, 2016

I would replace that brass fitting since brass contains copper

Ryan99639 · Apr 5, 2016

Thanks! Yea it took a while, I thought that fitting only has air running through it? I'll probably replace it though I never thought of that

sharktale · Apr 7, 2016

Nice plumbing,dude. Make sure you use a piece off flexible tubing from the pump to the hard pipe for movement,otherwise the fitting on the pump will crack!. found out the hard way. keep up the good build:).

ReeferBob · Apr 7, 2016

I suggest you incorporate a surface skimmer box in the tank portion, or better yet, a coast to coast overflow. You don't need to change anything you have, just add the box (with silicone) to the tank around the holes you drilled. You really need the surface skimmer action to keep the tank clean. A bigger reason to do that is you are looking at a LOT of water that will drain down and overflow your sump if your return pump stops. The overflow box limits the amount of water that will drain. You should be able to stop your pump and not have a flood and stop your drains and not have a flood. Anything else is a bad design and a ticking time bomb.

Also if you can still do it, replace that ball valve on the full siphon with a gate valve. You need the finer control a gate valve gives you for tuning of the drains.

Looks good otherwise!

ReeferBob · Apr 7, 2016

Also I notice on your design that there are no partitions on your sump tank with the skimmer and return. This is the tank that the water level will fluctuate due to evaporation. Having your skimmer in this tank will make it inconsistent. You should add a partition for the return chamber and just have the return pump in this chamber.

I am not sure about that staggered tank setup. It also seems like another flood point. You could put them side by side with 2 holes drilled in each with flexible PVC between them and just let them naturally equalize for volume. With your setup, that is a lot of extra water that will drain in the event of a power outage. Originally I thought that double outlet in the upper sump tank was a return. Is that another drain? If so, are your returns over the back returns?