Plumbing overflow..

ReeferBob

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I was planning on just using the one gate valve on my full siphon drain. Also if to take the 90° off of my full siphon line do I still need it to be so close to the bottom? Or is that one of those things I will have to feel out and adjust through the testing process

If you take off the bend, you will want to be as close to the bottom as you can to avoid creating the vortex above the drain and sucking air. Really just need the bulkhead by itself. With your shallow box, I am actually not sure you can accomplish this you might have to have the 180 degree bend. Since you are not gluing the plumbing in, you can easily experiment.

The only thing to worry about with plumbing is that your full-siphon is running before any water creeps into the open channel.

Don't forget about the hose coming out of the sealed top of the open channel that is positioned just above the running water line so that any rise in the water level will make the open channel go full siphon by blocking off the air to the hose. Most people forget or just leave this out and this negates the benefits of the Bean system.
 
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If you take off the bend, you will want to be as close to the bottom as you can to avoid creating the vortex above the drain and sucking air. Really just need the bulkhead by itself. With your shallow box, I am actually not sure you can accomplish this you might have to have the 180 degree bend. Since you are not gluing the plumbing in, you can easily experiment.

The only thing to worry about with plumbing is that your full-siphon is running before any water creeps into the open channel.

Don't forget about the hose coming out of the sealed top of the open channel that is positioned just above the running water line so that any rise in the water level will make the open channel go full siphon by blocking off the air to the hose. Most people forget or just leave this out and this negates the benefits of the Bean system.
Yeah, I have to drill a hole for that also. Thanks for the remider.. lol
 

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You actually wouldnt even have to have anything inside the box on the siphon line. As mentioned, if you get a vortex, it could suck in air though. Mine has a 180 elbow with a hole in the top....so effectively its about like having nothing, but may make things quieter.
 
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20170428_171849.jpg


It's not much but it is all I can do until my gate valve get here. I moved the full siphon drain down 1/4" and moved the other one up about 1/2". Also I was wonder if my pipes coming out of the bottom are to long. I wanted the unions to be right about the bottom of the tan so I cut them at 12" and the put on the unions. All the plumbing will be run into the opening off to the right bottom. The return will be coming from the other side or the stand. Thoughts or input?
 

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I would have made the pipes out to the unions shorter, but it will work fine.
 

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Do those unions screw up or down? I put the union screw half (female) on the top part but it doesn't really matter. Did you check out compression fittings?
 
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So I know this thread has been down for a month or more now but it seemed the appropriate place for my question. Now that I have the tank in the house and running I have noticed that about every 30 to 45 minutes my overflow makes a gurgling sound. Other than when it's doing that it is almost completely silent... Other than the normal water running through the overflow trickle sounds. My question is what could be causing the gurgle? I didn't do it when I tested it outside and it doesn't do it all the time... I have the return pump turned all the way down if that helps any.. thanks for the help fam
 

Engloid

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So I know this thread has been down for a month or more now but it seemed the appropriate place for my question. Now that I have the tank in the house and running I have noticed that about every 30 to 45 minutes my overflow makes a gurgling sound. Other than when it's doing that it is almost completely silent... Other than the normal water running through the overflow trickle sounds. My question is what could be causing the gurgle? I didn't do it when I tested it outside and it doesn't do it all the time... I have the return pump turned all the way down if that helps any.. thanks for the help fam
Whats happe ing is your water level in the external box is slowly dropping for that 30mins. It gets low enough it sucks in air, then the bubbles trying to escape slow flow, causing water level to go back up, and siphon is regained. Once bubbles all work their way out, the cycle repeats.

What you need to do is just slightly close the valve on the siphon line. If you have a controllable pump like a vectra, you may be able to just slightly turn it ip instead.
 
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Whats happe ing is your water level in the external box is slowly dropping for that 30mins. It gets low enough it sucks in air, then the bubbles trying to escape slow flow, causing water level to go back up, and siphon is regained. Once bubbles all work their way out, the cycle repeats.

What you need to do is just slightly close the valve on the siphon line. If you have a controllable pump like a vectra, you may be able to just slightly turn it ip instead.
Right, that's what I was thinking but I thought it was my pump putting it in to fast. I will try to turn it up a little bit and see what happens. Also on the Bean Animal set-up how much higher does the 2nd drain need to be the the full siphon drain? I have mine higher but it is pretty close.. I was also wondering if I moved it up just a bit more would that allows the siphon to not be broke also.. Thoughts?
 

Engloid

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Moving it higher won't really change the problem you're having. I do think it's best if the second Channel is higher. I think it needs to be high enough that the bottom of it is higher than the top of the siphon line. Mine works well like that.
 

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