Plywood tank build

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I thought I was going to start my build last year but better late then never. Started the stand this AM and just finished. Added a touch more center bracing and put 3/4" plywood on top after the picture. Nice and level, actually the most level thing I have ever done in my life, it's perfect. Epoxy in a couple of days on the stand and I start the tank tomorrow. One mistake I made already was not getting farther along with the basement remodel but I am plowing forward. Green treat 2x8 for contact with the floor because I had some nice straight ones in the garage, 2x4 studs 12" on center with a 2x6 rim for vertical load. Round 2 tomorrow.

720G stand #2.jpg
 

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I thought I was going to start my build last year but better late then never. Started the stand this AM and just finished. Added a touch more center bracing and put 3/4" plywood on top after the picture. Nice and level, actually the most level thing I have ever done in my life, it's perfect. Epoxy in a couple of days on the stand and I start the tank tomorrow. One mistake I made already was not getting farther along with the basement remodel but I am plowing forward. Green treat 2x8 for contact with the floor because I had some nice straight ones in the garage, 2x4 studs 12" on center with a 2x6 rim for vertical load. Round 2 tomorrow.

720G stand #2.jpg
It's going to be a beast!
 
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Day #2- Started the tank. Had to make it a touch smaller to get inside the beams in the basement but it still is big. Had a blowout of a ply of oak down towards the bottom and quickly filled it will epoxy and clamped it. It was about the diameter of a pencil. Normally it would bother me but its going to be under the fillet on the bottom edge which we will use more epoxy on it and covered with 2 layers of stitched 1208 so it doesn't concern me at all. I did something a little different with the tank reinforcement. Around the back and side I used oak 2x4's on edge length ways not vertical like a framed wall. A lot of storage tanks and aquaculture holding tanks are made like this and I like the idea. Plywood for the walls are oak with screws every 3 inches, glue and the front is made from laminated oak boards kiln dried and turned into 4x4's with the grain on edge for best stability to hold the glass in. As you can see I have the top beam and side beams to go on the front but the day started early and a Bloody Mary is calling my name. Having to do this all over I could have went with birch plywood and select pine 2x4's to save weight and it would be fine. Guys, that thing is a tank. See you tomorrow. Chris

tank #2.jpg tank #3.jpg tank #1.jpg
 
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Wow, looks very precise... excellent craftsmanship! Are you going to cover the supports on the outside as well? If so, would you fill those gaps with some type of insulation?
 
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Wow, looks very precise... excellent craftsmanship! Are you going to cover the supports on the outside as well? If so, would you fill those gaps with some type of insulation?
Thanks. I will cover the outside supports with epoxy paint. Insulation won't be needed, wood insulates ALOT more then glass. The basement stays pretty consistent temp wise.
 
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I am done with the face. I need a little advice from everyone. I was going to put a 3 1/2" wide rim around the top and set a 1 1/2" piece on top of that all in oak to hold my glass tops. Yes I want glass tops. Will that stop the chance of bowing? Second, who out there has attempted to measure PAR through 1/4" or 3/8" low iron glass? If my ECO tech radion blues are turned up to 11 and 3' LED strips lights are maxed out how much does that cut down on the PAR? Thx in advance for this one. Chris

Tank # 4.jpg
 
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A little set back today. I am looking at putting in a nice fillet in the corners but I am having trouble. Fillets help strengthen the 90 degree corners and help the fiber glassing process when using thicker cloths like Bi-axial type like I am using role up on the sides. I didn't want to hand form it with Cabasil and a spoon and I failed at trimming down pine/basswood coving but picked up some 3/4" oak coving and cut it down. I am going to practice a little before I glue (titebond 3) and toe nail it in the corners. Update maybe tomorrow. Have a good weekend everyone. Chris
 

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Your tank is 38” tall
Any possible way to go 48” and over?
 
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Your tank is 38” tall
Any possible way to go 48” and over?
This is my first plywood aquarium so I want to see how much deflection I get on this one before I speak with the horizontal ribbing BUT with that said It would be fun to go up to 48" and bolt some 1 1/2" cell cast acrylic to the oak 4x4's with stainless steel lag screws and find out wouldn't it? I will measure the deflection against the block wall of the basement during the fill stage and tell you straight up what happens. I have seen others do it.
 

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I wouldn't call it fun lol
I’m planning to build 8’x6’x4 high tank, as for all glass I would have to remortgage my house
 
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I wouldn't call it fun lol
I’m planning to build 8’x6’x4 high tank, as for all glass I would have to remortgage my house
To be honest I think I could go another 10" higher by adding another row of bracing 3" from the bottom and another row up top all the way around the back and it would hold no problem. The front however I would have to think about some more. For 4' tall I would build a front "wall" like structure that you see when others have done large plywood tanks made out of oak 2x4's and screwed and glued together. If you want to keep the display window as big as possible I would glue'n'screw and extra oak 2x4 on edge all the way around the face in an "X" pattern like a LVL header while making sure you bar clamp the heck out of it keeping it true, then run some 1208 biaxial tabbed over the front and around the corner. I wish you were here, I am a BIG dude and I can't make it flex. I don't want to be the guy that counts his chickens before they hatch but dang, if this thing bows I will be surprised.
 
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The top rim is screwed down and glued with a nice 2" lip made from 1x4" and 1x2" oak so if I want tops I can have them. The corners turned out really good. It's 3/4" oak cove cut down with the table saw and glued in place with Titebond 3 waterproof glue and finish nailed. The edges were paper thin and I am going to finish sand them nice and flush once the glue sets a bit after I bondo the screw holes. It's a nice 3/4" radius. I made some 4' practice pieces out of scrap to practice on. Fiberglass next..........

Tank #6.jpg Tank #5.jpg
 
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