Plz help my tank is so cloudy

[dedragon]

you could also modify the aquaclear filter 110 to fit a tunze comline protein skimmer, could probably make one baffle out of acrylic and just glue it in for filter floss (polyfil) for super cheap or buy this

inTank Media Basket for Fluval Aquaclear 110 | Hagen AquaClear 110

inTank aquarium-specific designed Media Baskets help improve the filtration and clarity of your aquarium while making maintenance extremely easy

intankaquatics.com

 

[JPM San Diego]

I really can't tell if those are polyps or zoanthids in the front right corner. If so, they will need some light.
Try darkening the rest of the tank. I have used opaque plastic on the hood. Just make sure it does not get too hot.
Try using blue light (corals need) and minimize yellow and red light (favored by algae). If you tank is in a sun light room, close the curtains.

 

[ProxyAquarist]

Okay, just to recap.:

Tank Age: “... almost 2 years old...”
Filtration & Size: “... marine Penguin filter on a 36 gallon ...”
Fish: “... 2 clowns, a fire fish, small yellow coris, wrasse all doing well for 2 months ..”
Chemistry/Parameters: “... my ph just a tad low, no ammonia, nitrate 5, no nitrites ...” and “ … my LFS ... said my levels were fine ...”
Symptom 1: “... past 2 weeks has gotten horribly cloudy ...”
Symptom 2: “... Then this insane amount of algae came ...”
Action: “... Tried cutting the feeding ….”
Contemplating 1: “ … thinking of getting the hang on aqua max one with a protein skimmer ...”
Contemplating 2: “ ...cutting the … light cycle back if anything he was worse ...”


A few questions:

1. As Mxracer65 asked, What were <sand> fine levels?
-Was the sand washed?
-Was there a cloud after adding sand?
-Does stirring the sand cause a cloud?
-What type of sand was it?
2. Do you know your phosphate level?
3. Did you confirm that this was algae?
- Do you know the type?
4. Do you have corals?
-If you have corals and they require light, avoid a black out.
-If a blackout is required place the corals in a quarantine tank(QT) with a proper light.
5. How often do you service your filter?
6. Do you have plants in the tank?

A few quick suggestions:
a. As CrimsonTide mentioned, start water changes.
- These are therapeutic water changes so do them more often and at higher volumes. Example, 50% WC every every 2 days for 6 days and then 20% biweekly.
b. Consider a QT for the fish as you treat.
- This will lower fish stress.
- This will take fish feedings out of the problem tank.
c. Service your filter weekly.
- Replace any floss or pads
- Dip media in clean saltwater to wash away algae.
- As CrimsonTide suggested, consider adding carbon.
d. As Lavey29 and Dedragon suggested, add an air stone attached to an air pump to your display tank and to any QT tank if used. As Dedragon, noted it will help with a bacterial bloom in addition to increasing oxygen for the inhabitants.
e. Consider more water flow/agitation in the display tank.
f. As CrimsonTide suggested, scrape the inner glass. This will make algae on the glass water borne and removable by water changes.
g. Use a brush on any “hardscape” without corals. If the rock can be removed, do this in a bucket with tank water to avoid hurting fish.
h. If algae persists on hardscape without coral, consider a dip in hydrogen peroxide. This will also kill bacteria and may slow your nitrogen cycle, but it will eliminate most algae.
i. If algae is big enough, remove it by hand.

A few comments,
- “Green water” can often be bacteria. Note you can have a bacterial bloom and a algae bloom. Water changes will help.
- Avoid algaecides, none have worked well for me. Some have killed all my plants in freshwater tanks. Many contain a chemical that blocks photosynthesis. That can not be good for light requiring coral and their symbiotic bacteria.
- A surface skimmer is unlikely to remove algae. A sump type skimmer may help by remove waste that algae feed on, but you nitrate were low.
- Rather than buying a new filter/skimmer, consider an appropriately sized UV with flow set for algae and the UV bulb changed yearly. My son has a 8 Watt Advantage 2000 UV Sterilizer with Hanger Spout on his 10 gallon aquarium. It works great on water borne algae.
- Light should be set for corals not algae. If you have no light requiring corals, feel free to lower the light. If you have light requiring corals, let the light be and ramp up water changes. Once your tank is algae free adjust the lights for maximum coral health. Until then, one change at a time.

Go slow, thoughtful, and with a plan. You will overcome this; however, it will not be overnight.

Best wishes and may you 2022 be algae free,


Jim

 

[dedragon]

Jim

This plus add an airstone air pump in asap because if it is bacterial it will lower o2 levels substantially

 

[a.t.t.r]

You really can’t test water when it is that full of algae.

 

[ProxyAquarist]

This plus add an airstone air pump in asap because if it is bacterial it will lower o2 levels substantially

I updated my suggestion to include your insight.

" ...As Lavey29 and Dedragon suggested, add an air stone attached to an air pump to your display tank and to any QT tank if used. As Dedragon, noted it will help with a bacterial bloom in addition to increasing oxygen for the inhabitants. .."

Thanks,
Jim

 

[ProxyAquarist]

You really can’t test water when it is that full of algae.

Yup, I hear ya on that.

One should still try to get at least weekly chemistry. I'd try submerging a container so the mouth is just at the surface or from the tank filter output.. If much algae is still present one could filter out algae via a coffee filter or a coffee filter plus floss.

Never give up, never surrender,
Jim

 

[vetteguy53081]

Looks like an algae bloom but can be bacterial with algae present.

Is tank at or near a window?
Are you using RODI water or tap water from the faucet?
I believe you stated you have a penguin bio filter for filtration ? If so , its mechanical filtration and youre missing chemical and biological filtration. this filter also offers Low water flow or circulation in the tank allowing algae spores to form from dissolved organics.
On ammonia and nitrates at zero 0 What test kit(s) are you using ?

Adding a protein skimmer will help by removing excess nutrients starving the source f food for algae and blooms. For your tank, a hang on unit such as Ice Cap K-50 or K2-50 would fit and work perfect. Reducing white light intensity or white altogether will also help

 

[vetteguy53081]

I’m using a wack marine land I hate it it was 30 bucks I wanna order a good hang on filter/ protein skimmer I know they’re expensive but they gotta work and maybe that’ll clear this crap up or help

If this unit has the biowheel, squirt some liquid bacteria on it as it will serve as a biological unit for waste breakdown.

 

[moz71]

Like somewhat else said. UV. clear it in no time. Even the cheaper ones. “ green killing machine from petco. Did it for me

 

[KeepSwimming]

I’ve seen bacterial blooms clear up after lowering the temperature. I’ve kept quarantine tanks and my nano around 68-71 for weeks at a time with no visible stress to the livestock. I’m new at this, but the seahorse keeping community can vouch for lower temps slowing bacterial growth and still supporting the basic tank livestock.

 

[dedragon]

Looks like an algae bloom but can be bacterial with algae present.

Is tank at or near a window?
Are you using RODI water or tap water from the faucet?
I believe you stated you have a penguin bio filter for filtration ? If so , its mechanical filtration and youre missing chemical and biological filtration. this filter also offers Low water flow or circulation in the tank allowing algae spores to form from dissolved organics.
On ammonia and nitrates at zero 0 What test kit(s) are you using ?

Adding a protein skimmer will help by removing excess nutrients starving the source f food for algae and blooms. For your tank, a hang on unit such as Ice Cap K-50 or K2-50 would fit and work perfect. Reducing white light intensity or white altogether will also help

^ but i dont know if they cant do in tank like the k2 needs, the k250 is actually of the body size/neck size and air/water (liters/gph) ration i would recommend for this size tank (5"inch body wud prefer 6 but it is hang on back) K 200 might be more finicky as it is smaller but cheaper and shud still work

IceCap K3 200 HOB Protein Skimmer

Compact HOB protein skimmer ideal for marine aquariums up to 140 gallons.K3 200HOB User Instructions - Click Here

www.coralvue.com

 

[dedragon]

for 120 gallon i like a 750 to 900 liters per hour to an almost equal water ratio on a 6 inch body but the hob 250 aint bad at 5" and you could probably run the pump at 50-75% depending on wat works for you so less noise than the k3 200 running at full blast

 

[dedragon]

If this unit has the biowheel, squirt some liquid bacteria on it as it will serve as a biological unit for waste breakdown.

Fritzyme has worked well for me, got too much bacterial mulm with microbacter not sure if anyone has had a similar experience

 

[ProxyAquarist]

Fritzyme has worked well for me, got too much bacterial mulm with microbacter not sure if anyone has had a similar experience

My experience has also been positive. With high mulm, I use FritzZyme 460 Saltwater Aquarium Cleaner. It and its freshwater equivalent have worked well. Add it to the main tank at an area of high flow and make sure to turn off any skimmer and UV sterilizer for 2 days.

In addition after servicing the filter, during treatments, after death of an inhabitant, after a spike in ammonia/nitrate, or during times of stress, I add some FritzZyme 9 Saltwater to the filter sponges. Again, make sure to turn off any skimmer and UV sterilizer for 2 days. Except in emergencies, I add FritzZyme 460 and FritzZyme 9 in alternate weeks.

is this essential or required? No However, I am very protective of my son's aquariums and take no chances.

Best wishes,
Jim

 

[snorklr]

in my mind if you kill off the algae with something like chemicals or a uv sterilizer you will still be left with a tank full of dead algae...and those nutrients will then be consumed by something else causing a bloom of something else...whatever caused the bloom needs to be removed and the simplest way is through water changes...then you can try to figure out what caused it

 

[frizzayyyyreef]

I^ what both @CrimsonTide and @Miami Reef said.
Marineland is actually a pretty ok filter, i would recommend adding on this instead and running a small tunze or internal k1-50 or k1 nano or using it as a fuge and using an air bubbler inside the refugium box to increase O2 levels.

Fiji Cube Advanced Hang On Back Refugium Box - Large

Fiji Cube Hang On Refugium Box is a great option for growing beneficial algae to help with nutrient control in your tank and for harboring micro fauna. The refugium box comes with a quiet efficient pump and a unique baffle system. This design prevents the substrate and the inhabitants from being...

www.fijicube.com

Why do I need to buy a reforging

Light! If you don't have photosynthetic organisms (coral, etc) turn off the lights! All that algae requires light.
Do this in addition to water

If this unit has the biowheel, squirt some liquid bacteria on it as it will serve as a biological unit for waste breakdown.

Interesting it does have a bio wheel that spins most of the time randomly it’ll just stop working like I said I think you get what you pay for this filter is horrible

 

[frizzayyyyreef]

in my mind if you kill off the algae with something like chemicals or a uv sterilizer you will still be left with a tank full of dead algae...and those nutrients will then be consumed by something else causing a bloom of something else...whatever caused the bloom needs to be removed and the simplest way is through water changes...then you can try to figure out what caused

Like somewhat else said. UV. clear it in no time. Even the cheaper ones. “ green killing machine from petco. Did it for me

Okay, just to recap.:

Tank Age: “... almost 2 years old...”
Filtration & Size: “... marine Penguin filter on a 36 gallon ...”
Fish: “... 2 clowns, a fire fish, small yellow coris, wrasse all doing well for 2 months ..”
Chemistry/Parameters: “... my ph just a tad low, no ammonia, nitrate 5, no nitrites ...” and “ … my LFS ... said my levels were fine ...”
Symptom 1: “... past 2 weeks has gotten horribly cloudy ...”
Symptom 2: “... Then this insane amount of algae came ...”
Action: “... Tried cutting the feeding ….”
Contemplating 1: “ … thinking of getting the hang on aqua max one with a protein skimmer ...”
Contemplating 2: “ ...cutting the … light cycle back if anything he was worse ...”


A few questions:

1. As Mxracer65 asked, What were <sand> fine levels?
-Was the sand washed?
-Was there a cloud after adding sand?
-Does stirring the sand cause a cloud?
-What type of sand was it?
2. Do you know your phosphate level?
3. Did you confirm that this was algae?
- Do you know the type?
4. Do you have corals?
-If you have corals and they require light, avoid a black out.
-If a blackout is required place the corals in a quarantine tank(QT) with a proper light.
5. How often do you service your filter?
6. Do you have plants in the tank?

A few quick suggestions:
a. As CrimsonTide mentioned, start water changes.
- These are therapeutic water changes so do them more often and at higher volumes. Example, 50% WC every every 2 days for 6 days and then 20% biweekly.
b. Consider a QT for the fish as you treat.
- This will lower fish stress.
- This will take fish feedings out of the problem tank.
c. Service your filter weekly.
- Replace any floss or pads
- Dip media in clean saltwater to wash away algae.
- As CrimsonTide suggested, consider adding carbon.
d. As Lavey29 and Dedragon suggested, add an air stone attached to an air pump to your display tank and to any QT tank if used. As Dedragon, noted it will help with a bacterial bloom in addition to increasing oxygen for the inhabitants.
e. Consider more water flow/agitation in the display tank.
f. As CrimsonTide suggested, scrape the inner glass. This will make algae on the glass water borne and removable by water changes.
g. Use a brush on any “hardscape” without corals. If the rock can be removed, do this in a bucket with tank water to avoid hurting fish.
h. If algae persists on hardscape without coral, consider a dip in hydrogen peroxide. This will also kill bacteria and may slow your nitrogen cycle, but it will eliminate most algae.
i. If algae is big enough, remove it by hand.

A few comments,
- “Green water” can often be bacteria. Note you can have a bacterial bloom and a algae bloom. Water changes will help.
- Avoid algaecides, none have worked well for me. Some have killed all my plants in freshwater tanks. Many contain a chemical that blocks photosynthesis. That can not be good for light requiring coral and their symbiotic bacteria.
- A surface skimmer is unlikely to remove algae. A sump type skimmer may help by remove waste that algae feed on, but you nitrate were low.
- Rather than buying a new filter/skimmer, consider an appropriately sized UV with flow set for algae and the UV bulb changed yearly. My son has a 8 Watt Advantage 2000 UV Sterilizer with Hanger Spout on his 10 gallon aquarium. It works great on water borne algae.
- Light should be set for corals not algae. If you have no light requiring corals, feel free to lower the light. If you have light requiring corals, let the light be and ramp up water changes. Once your tank is algae free adjust the lights for maximum coral health. Until then, one change at a time.

Go slow, thoughtful, and with a plan. You will overcome this; however, it will not be overnight.

Best wishes and may you 2022 be algae free,


Jim

*2 months not 2 years sorry big typo this is my 2nd tank I had to downgrade from

I really can't tell if those are polyps or zoanthids in the front right corner. If so, they will need some light.
Try darkening the rest of the tank. I have used opaque plastic on the hood. Just make sure it does not get too hot.
Try using blue light (corals need) and minimize yellow and red light (favored by algae). If you tank is in a sun light room, close the curtains.

Beautiful red zoas they look like polyps I think bc after cutting the light they look like they’re stretching a lot begging for light

 

[Utubereefer]

 

[frizzayyyyreef]

lol!!! Haha