Possible DIY Algae Turf Scrubber. Input wanted.

lpsouth1978

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I have been looking into ATS's but am a bit turned off by the high prices. I have seen a number of DIY's for them and believe that I can make one for FAR less than buying one. My current plan is to build it following the design of the Clear Water ATS (BRS sells them). I like the look and the function of these ATS's and I believe that I can make it look VERY similar and save $200-$300 in the process.

The acrylic box would be made from black acrylic except for the sides the lights are on and would measure 12"x12"x6". I have a couple of questions though:

1. Will this size be enough for a ~180g display with heavy bio-load and heavy feeding?
2. Do you think this light will work. I could get 2 of them so that the screen is lit from both sides. It is waterproof and designed for plant growth. 100W grow light
3. Do you have any other suggestions or thought on this plan?
 

Reef-junky

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Basically from what I remember you want 1w LEDs.

 
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Reef-junky

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Here’s the one I made. The most expensive part was the acrylic.

1D28377C-E066-415A-BDBA-8CAB7A86B40F.jpeg
 

Bramzor

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People tend to overdo an algae scrubber. Bigger is not always better for the health and stability of the tank. You have x amount of nutrients that you want to pull out and you need to create a place where algae like to grow (which is a place with light). But why people think it's a good idea to put a 50W or 100W or whatever at a few inches away...

You have an ideal spot (flow, light, air...) to grow algae and you can have one with (more flow, more light and more air). But the result is most likely the same, it will pull out all nutrients over time. You are exporting the nutrients that are available. You can do it quicker, but you run it 24h anyway so why build something that can pull out all nutrients in a matter of hours? It's like building a 10.000 gallon skimmer and put it on a 50g tank. You will pull out EXACTLY the same amount as a skimmer that is designed for 50g tank.

If you have a tank which is running OK and do not want to cause big issues. Just build a small one. You will have an additional way of exporting nutrients without causing big issues because you might pull out too much.

Also keep in mind that a 100W LED gets really hot which is something you do not need at all. Put in a 10W or lower. Also prefer the use of something that works on a lower voltage like 12V instead of 120V. There is a lot of water in a tank and combining that with 120V might just kill someone. 12V is also easy to put a dimmer on (PWM) compared to 120V.

So go for a 12V LED. Preferably something which you can dim so it generates less heat.
And yes, you can build an algae scrubber for just 20$. I'm building a hang on one for my sump. Takes less material, is easy to access and if it would ever leak, it would leak into my sump. Just have to make sure the LEDs do not drop into the tank but if they do, with the 12V it's still safe enough.
 
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lpsouth1978

lpsouth1978

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Thank you both for the input. Instead of going all out right now, I opted to just do a MUCH simpler and less expensive build. I ended up getting a plastic cereal container from amazon. I used a drill and a dremel to cut out some slots for the pipe to sit in. I also drilled a couple of holes in the side of the container. One for a 3/4" bulkhead (main drain), the other for a 1/2" bulkhead (backup drain). To light this I simply used a couple LED Smart Bulbs in some gooseneck mounts, and changed the color use just the red and blue LED's. This is run off the main pump using the manifold that came with my Waterbox 230.6.

If this works well, I will probably just keep it running. I will build a bigger/better one if this one turns out to be too small.

20191019_131139 by Lyle Southard, on Flickr

20191019_131142 by Lyle Southard, on Flickr

20191019_131152 by Lyle Southard, on Flickr

20191019_131148 by Lyle Southard, on Flickr

20191019_131156 by Lyle Southard, on Flickr

20191019_131425 by Lyle Southard, on Flickr
 

Reef-junky

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A lot of your screen is underwater. The bulkhead really should be on the bottom of the container.
 
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lpsouth1978

lpsouth1978

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A lot of your screen is underwater. The bulkhead really should be on the bottom of the container.
Ok, so I made some changes based on your feedback. I actually just did a new container and reused everything else. It seems to be working even better, the water is running more evenly down the sheet. The only issue is that it is quite a bit louder now. I can only get it more quiet by turning down the flow, but then it doesn't work as well. Here are some new pics.

20191019_175340 by Lyle Southard, on Flickr

20191019_175353 by Lyle Southard, on Flickr

20191019_175343 by Lyle Southard, on Flickr
 

Reef-junky

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If you have a small amount of screen underwater that should help. You could also put a valve on the bottom and then add an emergency drain to the side in case of a plug up. Off the top of my head I can’t remember the recommended flow rates but you want an even flow over the screen.
 

Reef-junky

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Nothing wrong with what you made as an ATS by the way. Some of the things I’ve seen.

7BF1966A-528C-45C0-B1EE-F2215D380E32.jpeg 3844E704-A1A9-4B79-8427-3D5747F644DC.jpeg E366C9CB-9225-4AF0-926E-152E0A2315E4.jpeg
 
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lpsouth1978

lpsouth1978

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Add a bubbler under the screen.
Huh? If this was an upflow scrubber that would work. However, the screen is NOT under water, but has a sheet of water falling down it. It seems to me that adding a bubbler would accomplish NOTHING in this case.

PS - thanks for the PM.
 

S2G

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I bought mine fron this guy. 125
Just buy lights & supply feed
 

CoralWealth

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I bought mine fron this guy. 125
Just buy lights & supply feed

He sells them???
 

S2G

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He sells them???

Yep. I have it sitting on a shelf ready to install. Very nice quality you just have to buy lights and a pump if you need one. I bought 2 Abi 25w 660nm (30 ea) & I had a pump laying around.
 

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