Possible popeye or similar

[melypr1985]

Oh also, I know that Ich has a 76 day minimum wait, are you agreeing with me that velvet looks appropriate and if so, what is the down time for it?

It doesn't quite look like velvet, but either way... velvet or copper you will be covered by treating with copper.

 

[94Roarge]

It doesn't quite look like velvet, but either way... velvet or copper you will be covered by treating with copper.

What is the life cyce time of velvet compared to ich?

 

[94Roarge]

Sooo, I still haven't dosed the cupramine to the qt, but the dots are all gone from the fish. I am 200% sure that they weren't microbubbles.

I am lost.

 

[Humblefish]

What is the life cyce time of velvet compared to ich?

Typically, done in 2 weeks. 6 weeks MAX.

Sooo, I still haven't dosed the cupramine to the qt, but the dots are all gone from the fish. I am 200% sure that they weren't microbubbles.

I am lost.

With ich, the white spots will disappear in 3-7 days. For velvet its 12-96 hours. All part of the lifecycle, which continues almost indefinitely and doesn't end unless interrupted by copper/CP treatment.

 

[Empress]

Typically, done in 2 weeks. 6 weeks MAX.



With ich, the white spots will disappear in 3-7 days. For velvet its 12-96 hours. All part of the lifecycle, which continues almost indefinitely and doesn't end unless interrupted by copper/CP treatment.
[/QUO
So, Humble,let's say the white spots disappear in 3 days, couldn't the fish be removed from that tank and into a sterile one? Then tx wouldn't be necessary since the fish is free of parasites?

 

[94Roarge]

Typically, done in 2 weeks. 6 weeks MAX.



With ich, the white spots will disappear in 3-7 days. For velvet its 12-96 hours. All part of the lifecycle, which continues almost indefinitely and doesn't end unless interrupted by copper/CP treatment.

Hmm, so a month of treatment. Then if the lifecycle continues indefinitely, is that only with a fishy host?

 

[Humblefish]

So, Humble,let's say the white spots disappear in 3 days, couldn't the fish be removed from that tank and into a sterile one? Then tx wouldn't be necessary since the fish is free of parasites?

Yes, but I prefer 10 days because that would also account for the front end of ich's known lifecycle. However, there is no margin for error if you go this route: Therapeutic levels must be maintained for 10 consecutive days, no cross contamination can occur from the treatment tank AND the sterile holding tank the fish gets transferred into must be housed at least 10 feet away. And of course, the fish should still be observed post transfer to ensure symptoms do not return.

Hmm, so a month of treatment. Then if the lifecycle continues indefinitely, is that only with a fishy host?

Are we talking about in the DT or QT? In the DT, the lifecycle gets interrupted by going fallow and thus denying the free swimming stage a (fish) host to feed upon. So you're essentially starving it to death. In a QT environment, you can use a chemical (such as copper) or hyposalinity (only works on some strains of ich) to "zap" this same free swimming stage. Neither provides any direct benefit to the fish, other than to shield them from reinfection. This is why the 10 day treatment and then transfer method (described above) can work; because you are waiting out the time the trophont can remain on a fish before dropping off, shielding your fish from the possibility of reinfection and then transferring the fish to another tank. Thus leaving behind any lingering parasite problems (i.e. unhatched tomonts) in the original treatment tank.

However, if you only have 1 QT to work with then treating for 30 days becomes the next best thing. The vast majority of strains of ich and all strains of velvet will complete their entire lifecycle in 30 days or less. You are just observing post treatment for symptoms of ich in case an unusual strain has been encountered. 30 days of copper treatment works probably 95% of the time, assuming therapeutic levels were properly maintained for the entire 30 days.

P. S. The reason velvet requires a 6 week fallow period (and not just 30 days) is because in a DT (reef) environment the dinoflagellate is capable of using the aquarium lighting for photosynthesis, thus extending it's life before starving to death.

 

[Empress]

Hmm, so a month of treatment. Then if the lifecycle continues indefinitely, is that only with a fishy host?

For non-fishy hosts, the QT is even longer. Ich/ velvet tomonts can attach to hard surfaces including shrimp skeletons, snails, frag plugs, etc.

 

[Empress]

Yes, but I prefer 10 days because that would also account for the front end of ich's known lifecycle. However, there is no margin for error if you go this route: Therapeutic levels must be maintained for 10 consecutive days, no cross contamination can occur from the treatment tank AND the sterile holding tank the fish gets transferred into must be housed at least 10 feet away. And of course, the fish should still be observed post transfer to ensure symptoms do not return.

Are we talking about in the DT or QT? In the DT, the lifecycle gets interrupted by going fallow and thus denying the free swimming stage a (fish) host to feed upon. So you're essentially starving it to death. In a QT environment, you can use a chemical (such as copper) or hyposalinity (only works on some strains of ich) to "zap" this same free swimming stage. Neither provides any direct benefit to the fish, other than to shield them from reinfection. This is why the 10 day treatment and then transfer method (described above) can work; because you are waiting out the time the trophont can remain on a fish before dropping off, shielding your fish from the possibility of reinfection and then transferring the fish to another tank. Thus leaving behind any lingering parasite problems (i.e. unhatched tomonts) in the original treatment tank.

However, if you only have 1 QT to work with then treating for 30 days becomes the next best thing. The vast majority of strains of ich and all strains of velvet will complete their entire lifecycle in 30 days or less. You are just observing post treatment for symptoms of ich in case an unusual strain has been encountered. 30 days of copper treatment works probably 95% of the time, assuming therapeutic levels were properly maintained for the entire 30 days.

P. S. The reason velvet requires a 6 week fallow period (and not just 30 days) is because in a DT (reef) environment the dinoflagellate is capable of using the aquarium lighting for photosynthesis, thus extending it's life before starving to death.

Turn off the lights. [emoji854]

 

[Humblefish]

Turn off the lights. [emoji854]

Good choice if treating velvet in a QT.

Unwise decision if going fallow for velvet in a DT with corals. :)

 

[Empress]

Good choice if treating velvet in a QT.

Unwise decision if going fallow for velvet in a DT with corals. :)

I was just being a smarty-pants. [emoji57]

 

[94Roarge]

Yes, but I prefer 10 days because that would also account for the front end of ich's known lifecycle. However, there is no margin for error if you go this route: Therapeutic levels must be maintained for 10 consecutive days, no cross contamination can occur from the treatment tank AND the sterile holding tank the fish gets transferred into must be housed at least 10 feet away. And of course, the fish should still be observed post transfer to ensure symptoms do not return.

Are we talking about in the DT or QT? In the DT, the lifecycle gets interrupted by going fallow and thus denying the free swimming stage a (fish) host to feed upon. So you're essentially starving it to death. In a QT environment, you can use a chemical (such as copper) or hyposalinity (only works on some strains of ich) to "zap" this same free swimming stage. Neither provides any direct benefit to the fish, other than to shield them from reinfection. This is why the 10 day treatment and then transfer method (described above) can work; because you are waiting out the time the trophont can remain on a fish before dropping off, shielding your fish from the possibility of reinfection and then transferring the fish to another tank. Thus leaving behind any lingering parasite problems (i.e. unhatched tomonts) in the original treatment tank.

However, if you only have 1 QT to work with then treating for 30 days becomes the next best thing. The vast majority of strains of ich and all strains of velvet will complete their entire lifecycle in 30 days or less. You are just observing post treatment for symptoms of ich in case an unusual strain has been encountered. 30 days of copper treatment works probably 95% of the time, assuming therapeutic levels were properly maintained for the entire 30 days.

P. S. The reason velvet requires a 6 week fallow period (and not just 30 days) is because in a DT (reef) environment the dinoflagellate is capable of using the aquarium lighting for photosynthesis, thus extending it's life before starving to death.

Ah, I got a bit confused as to the answer, but that is a bit clearer, thanks! 6 weeks it is :3 were my photos clear enough to figure out what my fish have for sure?

 

[94Roarge]

Turn off the lights. [emoji854]

I would love to, but I have 2 nems [emoji23]

 

[Humblefish]

were my photos clear enough to figure out what my fish have for sure?

I can't be certain; however if I were in your shoes I would "play it safe" by doing the following:

1. Treat all fish with copper for 30 days.
2. Remove copper, and next treat with prazi 2x, 5-7 days apart
3. Go fallow in the DT for 76 days

The above protocol will address any possibility of ich, velvet and/or flukes. And allow you to hit the reset button in the DT.

 

[94Roarge]

I can't be certain; however if I were in your shoes I would "play it safe" by doing the following:

1. Treat all fish with copper for 30 days.
2. Remove copper, and next treat with prazi 2x, 5-7 days apart
3. Go fallow in the DT for 76 days

The above protocol will address any possibility of ich, velvet and/or flukes. And allow you to hit the reset button in the DT.

Sounds good, thanks!