Possible popeye or similar

[bif24701]

Awesome fish man! I'm going to buy one for my wife's birthday, so I can tell her it reminds me of her.

 

[94Roarge]

Awesome fish man! I'm going to buy one for my wife's birthday, so I can tell her it reminds me of her.

When is the funeral? [emoji23]

 

[bif24701]

This month.

 

[94Roarge]

Aha, best of luck ;)

 

[Lionfish Lair]

Oh no no no.... you gotta treat that! How long was it in between those pictures?

 

[Lionfish Lair]

Am I reading it right that you've had this fish for only about 24 hours?

 

[94Roarge]

Yeah [emoji15][emoji22] almost. After debating with our best disease/ailment guy at work we decided that in the state the fish is in I am going with "myaxin" by waterlife. I'll transfer water from the current tank to the QT and startthe 5 day course.

 

[rmiles54]

I had an orange toadfish, mine was super aggressive and would swallow almost everything. I tried to keep him together with a big grouper and a lion fish. I added the lion at night after lights were out, he drifted down towards the rock work. Looked like a dust cloud, the lion was gone! 50$ dinner. I put in egg crate separating the toad and grouper. After eating the lion, the toad's eyes looked similar to yours and his body had lost color. He looked barely alive and would not move. About a week later I noticed he had moved from his cave. After investigating, he had hopped the egg crate and eaten the grouper! That fish was thick and almost 5" long. The toad was probably around 7". I traded him to my LFS. I want to think it was from eating the lion, either way he was a soldier and just got over what ever he had. So I agree very hard to kill! Mine was said to be from the Gulf of Mexico in areas where water quality was far from optimal. I believe heavily polluted was the description used. Here's a pic I found of the orange toad online for reference.

Very cool fish, I hope yours gets better!

 

[94Roarge]

I had an orange toadfish, mine was super aggressive and would swallow almost everything. I tried to keep him together with a big grouper and a lion fish. I added the lion at night after lights were out, he drifted down towards the rock work. Looked like a dust cloud, the lion was gone! 50$ dinner. I put in egg crate separating the toad and grouper. After eating the lion, the toad's eyes looked similar to yours and his body had lost color. He looked barely alive and would not move. About a week later I noticed he had moved from his cave. After investigating, he had hopped the egg crate and eaten the grouper! That fish was thick and almost 5" long. The toad was probably around 7". I traded him to my LFS. I want to think it was from eating the lion, either way he was a soldier and just got over what ever he had. So I agree very hard to kill! Mine was said to be from the Gulf of Mexico in areas where water quality was far from optimal. I believe heavily polluted was the description used. Here's a pic I found of the orange toad online for reference.

Very cool fish, I hope yours gets better!

Oh wow! That is a beatiful fish! I think so at least aha. As far as eating things, my other froggy has been a model citizen. He is about 8" and I had it with a 4-5" forsters hawk a 4" shrimp and added in a 4" dottyback that sat next to the froggy's dinner and got half his body mouthed probably out of curiosity though as he spat it out and ate the defrosted whitebait instead [emoji23]

 

[94Roarge]

Got home with the meds, frog was alive. Cleaned the QT for him and went to move him, he was dead. If only the drip hadn't stopped it would all be okay :/

 

[Lionfish Lair]

Awwww.... I'm so sorry. What do you mean if the drip hadn't stopped?

 

[Lionfish Lair]

Oh, I see what you meant. I just went back and read where you had an acclimating mishap. That's not what caused this. He came to you sick. This had nothing to do with bad water quality and everything to do with something like velvet. I knew he was in trouble when you put up that last set of photos and it's why I kind of went "ECK! You need to treat!". IMO, this had nothing to do with you or anything that you did.

I guess now would be a good time to see what medications you can get there for the different common ailments found in the hobby. @Humblefish @melypr1985 , do we have an Aussie list?

 

[rmiles54]

Sorry for the loss! Never feels good.

 

[melypr1985]

@Humblefish @melypr1985 , do we have an Aussie list?

Not sure what would be available in Australia. Chloroquine Phosphate would be best I believe along with some antibiotics for those eyes. If we are assuming velvet or ich, then this protocol will treat both. Finding similar meds in Australia would be the hard part.
The short version:

• 5 minute freshwater dip
• Immediately afterwards, perform a chemical bath (in saltwater matching SG/temp the fish came from). You have two options:

1. Acriflavine (preferred) - Do the bath for 75-90 minutes, but remove the fish immediately at the first sign of distress. Aerate heavily both before & during the bath, and temperature control the water. The following products contain acriflavine: Acriflavine-MS and Ruby Reef Rally. DO NOT mix acriflavine with any other chemicals.
2. Formalin - Do the bath for 30-60 minutes max, but remove the fish immediately at the first sign of distress. Aerate heavily both before & during the bath, and temperature control the water. The following products contain formalin: Formalin-MS, Quick Cure, Aquarium Solutions Ich-X, Kordon Rid-Ich Plus. Use protection (rubber gloves, face mask, eye protection, etc.) whenever handling formalin as it is a known carcinogen! However, you can add Methylene Blue to the formalin bath (1 capful per 2-3 gallons of bath water.)

• After the bath, place the fish in a QT pre-dosed at 80mg/gal using Chloroquine phosphate. In theory, copper (exs. Cupramine, Coppersafe, Copper Power) should work just as well as CP. However, due to how fast velvet can reproduce you don’t have the luxury of slowly ramping up the copper level as is normally advised. Therefore, the fish needs to be placed in a QT with copper already at minimum therapeutic levels. This is the advantage CP has over copper in this particular situation.
• While in QT, use a wide spectrum antibiotic (exs. Seachem Kanaplex, Furan-2) for the first week to ward off any possible bacterial infections. Secondary bacterial infections are very common in fish with preexisting parasitic infestations such as velvet.
• Keep the fish in CP or copper (at therapeutic levels) for one month. However, you can transfer the fish into a non-medicated holding tank for observation after just two weeks (explained below). DO NOT lower the CP or copper level before transferring.

 

[Humblefish]

I guess now would be a good time to see what medications you can get there for the different common ailments found in the hobby. @Humblefish @melypr1985 , do we have an Aussie list?

No Aussie list, but many of the active ingredients found in these medications can be sourced at a local chemist in Australia: http://reef2reef.com/threads/medications-to-keep-on-hand.213574/

 

[AndrewNC]

I have coppered toads and so far have not had a problem. But the copper we had in the 70s when I used to do that sort of stuff was probably scraped off of kitchen plumbing pipes.
Those fish are very hard to kill. They can even live out of water for a very long time as long as they are damp. They will also give you a nice bite so don't stick your finger near his mouth.
To kill one you have to lay it in the street and have a school bus run over it, twice. But don't do that as I love those types of fish that remind me of old girlfriends. :rolleyes:

Yea I caught one once and when I was reeling it in a a little shark ate half his body then went after the rest so of course I then hooked the shark. When I took the shark off the hook the poor little toadfish was still alive

 

[94Roarge]

Oh, I see what you meant. I just went back and read where you had an acclimating mishap. That's not what caused this. He came to you sick. This had nothing to do with bad water quality and everything to do with something like velvet. I knew he was in trouble when you put up that last set of photos and it's why I kind of went "ECK! You need to treat!". IMO, this had nothing to do with you or anything that you did.

I guess now would be a good time to see what medications you can get there for the different common ailments found in the hobby. @Humblefish @melypr1985 , do we have an Aussie list?

When I found it and the stopped drip, I can't say how long it was without oxygen and was upside down not breathing. That's what made the big change from the heathy-apart-from-eyes to clamped-and-horrible look :/ he was spritely and curious at the shop, which is what led me to get it and fix it up, as they are hard to come by over here :/

 

[Lionfish Lair]

You didn't do it. This fish had some major cooties going on. The stress of the situation didn't help, but it was going to come on anyway.

 

[94Roarge]

So I have now noticed the other fish have got either velvet or ich. And I'm thinking it s from that frogfish. Greeeat. They are eating and in good health, but I can see the spots on fins so far. Should I look at getting a bigger QT or is there anything I can do in the main tank? There is only live rock and media, a few fish.

 

[melypr1985]

So I have now noticed the other fish have got either velvet or ich. And I'm thinking it s from that frogfish. Greeeat. They are eating and in good health, but I can see the spots on fins so far. Should I look at getting a bigger QT or is there anything I can do in the main tank? There is only live rock and media, a few fish.

I would look at getting a bigger QT and getting everybody in it for treatment. Can we get some pictures of the other fish?