PPBlimpy's S1000 downsize / upgrade

Non fish update. Tahoe is on the road. Used transmission for the win.

Back to fishy business.

Thinking I may stick with the A2 apex instead of jumping to the A3 I just got. I have a second backup A2 sitting here also. I have FMM modules and that seems to be the only difference. Will probably sell the A3 to help recoup funds.

Built my custom Aquabus cable earlier and about to go test it. Start adding all the modules and the second eb832 and both dos
Well done!

What's with the dirty fingers? Looks like you were putting a transmission in or something. 😉

Gathered all the rock up from the heist, some nice pieces. For size the boards they are sitting on are 8” wide.

Feel free to post your aquascape. Need some ideas. Going to build a new scape and let it cook / cure and transfer in the tank
That's a good amount of rock.

You going to use pvc or fiberglass and cement for building the scape? Also, have you given any thought to having the scape elevated up, off the tank bottom to give fish good hiding places?
 
Well done!

What's with the dirty fingers? Looks like you were putting a transmission in or something. 😉


That's a good amount of rock.

You going to use pvc or fiberglass and cement for building the scape? Also, have you given any thought to having the scape elevated up, off the tank bottom to give fish good hiding places?


I currently have my scape elevated via a pvc pipe system that doubles as an internal closed loop. It was originally covered in rock and wasn’t super noticeable.

But gives the fish a nice area to swim around. I will probably remove the closed loop but do something similar
 

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I currently have my scape elevated via a pvc pipe system that doubles as an internal closed loop. It was originally covered in rock and wasn’t super noticeable.

But gives the fish a nice area to swim around. I will probably remove the closed loop but do something similar
Looking forward to seeing what you come up with for the scape.
 
Finally got my halide bulbs ordered. Waiting to hear back from the guy on eBay about the led bars I want to try.

Looking at 6x 36” all actinic or 2x 50/50 12k & 4 actinic. But those are not exactly options for his listing so I am waiting to hear from him
 
Was originally ordering the bars on eBay. Found on one of my previous threads someone pointed to their website and you can get 8x 36” bars for the same cost as 6 on eBay. So going that route. May or may not use them all but what the heck.

2@ 2:1 12k/acrinic 453 and 6 full actinic 453

Only dislike is they are 140* lenses. Would prefer 90* since they will be mounted about 6” above the water. Will have plenty of spread/coverage. Very curious to see how they do
 
I finally got to ordering the bars this morning. Since this is a set it and forget it type of lighting setup, not programmable spectrum like LED I am going back and forth on trying my choices and trying to give myself as many options as possible.

Ebay was going to be $236 for six 36" bars 162W with three dimmers and power supplies

Going directly to their website was a much better deal. I try to avoid ebay like the plague and not sure why I never checked to see if they had a site. I was a vendor selling on Ebay for many years and their fees are outrageous but as a advertising tool was great.

On the site I got Eight 36" bars 216w for $219 shipped. In the end I am going with four bars with a 2:1 ratio bars 12k / 453nm actinic and four bars full 453nm actinic. 4 dimmers and 4 power supplies.

Combined with the 3x 315W CMH @ 10k I am hoping I get the coloring I like. Considering the 4100k with no actinic is growing on me I am sure I will be okay with the final product.

I have read these LED bars can run a bit hot so the plan is to mount them all and hopefully be able to run them at lower power rating.

Back circa 2004 I had a 8' 180G shallow 96x24x18 and I am chasing the look I had on that tank, or at least what I remember it as. Could never get the look with Led

It ran four 250w MH with 10k or 14k bulbs, 440w VHO super actinic, and two 24" PC plus red moon lights for nighttime observation.

Had everything on analog timers, PCs came on first, 15 minutes later the VHO would fire up. Another 15 minutes and the first halide( from the east) would light. Each halide had a wall that block spillage between them. 15 minute the next halide , then the next, then the next. PC would shut off 15 after the last halide. After all halides were running for an hour the VHO would shut off.

The halides would run for 8 hours all together- 9 hours each and from start to stop lights would be running for 10hours.

I was 20, thought this was Genious!! mimic the sun coming up. Power company loved me. And this is where I got my hatred for analog timers. If I remember correctly it was 8 timers to run my lights. When the power would go out I had to reset them all manually.

I am very thankful for modern controllers and a little more knowledge and experience to know that all of that was completely useless.

Trying to find pictures of some of my old tanks.
 
I finally got to ordering the bars this morning. Since this is a set it and forget it type of lighting setup, not programmable spectrum like LED I am going back and forth on trying my choices and trying to give myself as many options as possible.

Ebay was going to be $236 for six 36" bars 162W with three dimmers and power supplies

Going directly to their website was a much better deal. I try to avoid ebay like the plague and not sure why I never checked to see if they had a site. I was a vendor selling on Ebay for many years and their fees are outrageous but as a advertising tool was great.

On the site I got Eight 36" bars 216w for $219 shipped. In the end I am going with four bars with a 2:1 ratio bars 12k / 453nm actinic and four bars full 453nm actinic. 4 dimmers and 4 power supplies.

Combined with the 3x 315W CMH @ 10k I am hoping I get the coloring I like. Considering the 4100k with no actinic is growing on me I am sure I will be okay with the final product.

I have read these LED bars can run a bit hot so the plan is to mount them all and hopefully be able to run them at lower power rating.

Back circa 2004 I had a 8' 180G shallow 96x24x18 and I am chasing the look I had on that tank, or at least what I remember it as. Could never get the look with Led

It ran four 250w MH with 10k or 14k bulbs, 440w VHO super actinic, and two 24" PC plus red moon lights for nighttime observation.

Had everything on analog timers, PCs came on first, 15 minutes later the VHO would fire up. Another 15 minutes and the first halide( from the east) would light. Each halide had a wall that block spillage between them. 15 minute the next halide , then the next, then the next. PC would shut off 15 after the last halide. After all halides were running for an hour the VHO would shut off.

The halides would run for 8 hours all together- 9 hours each and from start to stop lights would be running for 10hours.

I was 20, thought this was Genious!! mimic the sun coming up. Power company loved me. And this is where I got my hatred for analog timers. If I remember correctly it was 8 timers to run my lights. When the power would go out I had to reset them all manually.

I am very thankful for modern controllers and a little more knowledge and experience to know that all of that was completely useless.

Trying to find pictures of some of my old tanks.
I am excited to see the tank once the new lighting is set up.

It's going to be very tough achieving the look of youy circa 2004 tank with 4100K lamps. Also, do you know the spectrum on those 4100K lamps? Also, do you know the spectrum on the bars?
 
I am excited to see the tank once the new lighting is set up.

It's going to be very tough achieving the look of youy circa 2004 tank with 4100K lamps. Also, do you know the spectrum on those 4100K lamps? Also, do you know the spectrum on the bars?
I forgot to mention earlier. I got the 10k bulbs ordered for the halides. They will be here Thursday!

The bars I bought are a combo and just advertised as 4@ 12000K / 453nm in a 2:1 ratio and 4@ 453nm

No spectrum graph actually posted.

The new MH bulbs are attached
 

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@dantimdad runs apex system, @Fish Styx too... 🤔

I agree which ever is in better condition. From what I have seen the A3 has updates and is a bit faster but, you can do pretty much the same thing with both. The other possibility is you will get more money selling the A3 if they are both in excellent condition.
 
I forgot to mention earlier. I got the 10k bulbs ordered for the halides. They will be here Thursday!

The bars I bought are a combo and just advertised as 4@ 12000K / 453nm in a 2:1 ratio and 4@ 453nm

No spectrum graph actually posted.

The new MH bulbs are attached
I used to run 10,000K MH on my old 75. Changed to 14,000K and liked the more blue look. Those 453nm and 12,000k should help.
 
I agree which ever is in better condition. From what I have seen the A3 has updates and is a bit faster but, you can do pretty much the same thing with both. The other possibility is you will get more money selling the A3 if they are both in excellent condition.

I am probably keeping the A2. With everything I have researched the A3 Pro only gives me a built in FMM and I do not plan on leak detection or flow monitoring, plus I already have the ATK with FMM. Which I may sell and just replace with a I/O board and float switches since I will be running a DOS for my ATO to push from the basement.
 
I used to run 10,000K MH on my old 75. Changed to 14,000K and liked the more blue look. Those 453nm and 12,000k should help.
That is what I am hoping. Wish I could get higher kelvin bulbs for the CMH but they just are not made. I like the more natural look also. I just can not jump on the deep blue color trend with these tanks. I tried, yes the corals pop more but i like a more natural look.
 
That is what I am hoping. Wish I could get higher kelvin bulbs for the CMH but they just are not made. I like the more natural look also. I just can not jump on the deep blue color trend with these tanks. I tried, yes the corals pop more but i like a more natural look.
I miss quality MH bulbs. I remember when BRS had them from several placed in 14K, 15K and 20K My favorite were blueline 10K which, to me, was a true 10K. Color pop but you could still make out what you were seeing and growth like nothing before or since.
 
I miss quality MH bulbs. I remember when BRS had them from several placed in 14K, 15K and 20K My favorite were blueline 10K which, to me, was a true 10K. Color pop but you could still make out what you were seeing and growth like nothing before or since.

I am hoping this low buck setup works and looks decent. Never got exactly what I wanted out of LED. They looked great but I missed MH. This may just turn into a very expensive experiment.

These CMH I am running currently at 50%(selectable) which is really about 190w according to apex. I need to run another circuit to my tank before I crank everything up.

But my corals are loving it so far, color isn’t there running 4100k but torches are extended nicely along with a stubborn Goni is finally coming out. Also have some zoas coming back that I haven’t seen since the crash in Oct.
 
That is what I am hoping. Wish I could get higher kelvin bulbs for the CMH but they just are not made. I like the more natural look also. I just can not jump on the deep blue color trend with these tanks. I tried, yes the corals pop more but i like a more natural look.
Then 10,000/12,000K should be good for you especially with additional the blue bars.
 
So I am having the urge to setup another tank. My 210 is recovering slowly but I have a bad idea.

Now in my possession, after the last purchase of tanks/equipment have the following still available and think I could make a killer sps dominant with system. Would probably move my torches, hammer, chalice and Goni into it also.

I am in the green on selling stuff from this last purchase- recouped what I needed.

So Let’s see- equipment I have sitting here now.

54g corner tank
Octo110 skimmer or octo 100 classic HOB skimmer
Varios 2 return pump
4x Sicce Sdc powerheads
2x 300w heaters
Apex a2 with ph, temp, orp
Bubble magus 3 head doser
JBJ ATO
5g IM ATO container(if it fits)
3/4” sea swirl with T to 2x 1/2 RFG
150 lbs of rock to play with.
4” filter socks
2x AI16HD or 315w MH with a 10k bulb(have 2 extra fixture and 1 extra bulb in transit)
2x 3 little fishes reactors (if needed)

Things I would “need”
10 or 20G tank to make a sump
Actinic light bars or maybe use the AI16hd as supplemental blue.

Probably go bare bottom for my first time since I will have the ability to have lots of flow.
I’m have never started a tank from mostly dry rock. I would probably transfer only one or two small pieces from my DT into this. Let it cure and cycle for a couple weeks.

Have some redsea reef start stuff, bottles of coraline up and some other stuff.

Only fish I could transfer eventually would be my Flame angel, and maybe my tomini tang which is super small. He could go in for a while.

Wife wants me to put another anemone in the 210 with our pair of Darwin’s clowns and I would have no problem with that if I set this little tank up as SPS.

Leave all my zoas, and mushrooms in my big tank, grabs a couple cool BTA and let the big tank go hog wild.

I could put it all together for next to nothing. Maybe $100

IMG_6502.jpeg IMG_6496.jpeg IMG_6494.jpeg IMG_6417.jpeg IMG_6413.jpeg IMG_6379.jpeg IMG_6368.jpeg IMG_6375.jpeg IMG_6505.jpeg
 
So I am having the urge to setup another tank. My 210 is recovering slowly but I have a bad idea.

Now in my possession, after the last purchase of tanks/equipment have the following still available and think I could make a killer sps dominant with system. Would probably move my torches, hammer, chalice and Goni into it also.

I am in the green on selling stuff from this last purchase- recouped what I needed.

So Let’s see- equipment I have sitting here now.

54g corner tank
Octo110 skimmer or octo 100 classic HOB skimmer
Varios 2 return pump
4x Sicce Sdc powerheads
2x 300w heaters
Apex a2 with ph, temp, orp
Bubble magus 3 head doser
JBJ ATO
5g IM ATO container(if it fits)
3/4” sea swirl with T to 2x 1/2 RFG
150 lbs of rock to play with.
4” filter socks
2x AI16HD or 315w MH with a 10k bulb(have 2 extra fixture and 1 extra bulb in transit)
2x 3 little fishes reactors (if needed)

Things I would “need”
10 or 20G tank to make a sump
Actinic light bars or maybe use the AI16hd as supplemental blue.

Probably go bare bottom for my first time since I will have the ability to have lots of flow.
I’m have never started a tank from mostly dry rock. I would probably transfer only one or two small pieces from my DT into this. Let it cure and cycle for a couple weeks.

Have some redsea reef start stuff, bottles of coraline up and some other stuff.

Only fish I could transfer eventually would be my Flame angel, and maybe my tomini tang which is super small. He could go in for a while.

Wife wants me to put another anemone in the 210 with our pair of Darwin’s clowns and I would have no problem with that if I set this little tank up as SPS.

Leave all my zoas, and mushrooms in my big tank, grabs a couple cool BTA and let the big tank go hog wild.

I could put it all together for next to nothing. Maybe $100

IMG_6502.jpeg IMG_6496.jpeg IMG_6494.jpeg IMG_6417.jpeg IMG_6413.jpeg IMG_6379.jpeg IMG_6368.jpeg IMG_6375.jpeg IMG_6505.jpeg
I mean... Petco is having a sale on tanks. 50% off if I remember correctly?
 
I mean... Petco is having a sale on tanks. 50% off if I remember correctly?

Yep, 10g tank is like $20

Standard 20g is $40 and I believe that would fit, wouldn’t leave room for the 5g ATO resevoir though, but would fit the octo 110 skimmer.

I can Run ATO from a 1G jug

I haven’t had a tank under 75 gallons in ages. Not sure how much evap I could expect
 
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Yep, 10g tank is like $20

Standard 20g is $40 and I believe that would fit, wouldn’t leave room for the 5g ATO resevoir though, but would fit the octo 110 skimmer.

I can Run ATO from a 1G jug

I haven’t had a tank under 75 gallons in ages. Not sure how much evap I could expect
I go through around 7 gallons a week but I live in the desert and have lots of surface agitation for evaporative cooling.
 

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