Practicing on keeping the right parameters

[DAWREEFER]

Hi everyone,

I have a 20gal tank that I've modified to keep it an all-in-one tank. I started in late February of this year and it's going really well. Since started it's been cycled and I have added a Turbo snail/Emerald crab, then waited a few weeks before adding in two clownfish. Livestock is really good, but the turbo snail passed and I can't figure out why. I'm in the process of testing my parameters every few days to start getting ready to add my first coral. SUPER EXCITED. My question is do I have to keep track of any other parameters than the ones listed below? I also have put the averages since I've been testing.

I don't have a way to test some of the parameters listed, but is it really necessary, and what is the best way to get the result? Can you suggest a product if it's needed?

Temp 75.6
pH (Don't have any way to test this one yet)
Alk 10.7
Nitrate 15ppm
Nitrite 0ppm
Phos .25ppm
Calc 430
Magnesium (Don't have any way to test this one yet)
Iodine (Don't have any way to test this one yet)
Strontium (Don't have any way to test this one yet)
Salinity 38ppm

*Bonus*
I've heard from multiple people that you want to start with a soft coral and you'd probably want to get an anemone if you plan on having one first, because it can move around and sting/kill other corals that might be established already. Is this a good idea?

 

[PatW]

Welcome aboard.

It looks like you are off to a good start.

Your turbo snail could have died for lack of food. The crab might have killed it for food. Or it might have just died. ‘

Your nitrate is a bit high. I like about 10 ppm better. The phosphate is pretty high. The number I see is .03 ppm and only a Hanna ULR tester tests this low. But I have heard other people running phosphates much higher without ill effect.

Calcium is good. Alkalinity is a bit high for say SPS corals but not for other things.

You did not mention your salinity. A number many people use is 1.025.

Many people go with soft corals. I run mainly SPS and some stony corals. Soft corals need feeding and they indulge in chemical warfare. People counter the chemicals with water changes and using charcoal to absorb them. But on the plus side, they are easy and they do not require the intense light.

I don’t know about an anemone. They like established tanks. So one might not do well in a new system.

 

[Crustaceon]

Hi everyone,

I have a 20gal tank that I've modified to keep it an all-in-one tank. I started in late February of this year and it's going really well. Since started it's been cycled and I have added a Turbo snail/Emerald crab, then waited a few weeks before adding in two clownfish. Livestock is really good, but the turbo snail passed and I can't figure out why. I'm in the process of testing my parameters every few days to start getting ready to add my first coral. SUPER EXCITED. My question is do I have to keep track of any other parameters than the ones listed below? I also have put the averages since I've been testing.

I don't have a way to test some of the parameters listed, but is it really necessary, and what is the best way to get the result? Can you suggest a product if it's needed?

Temp 75.6
pH (Don't have any way to test this one yet)
Alk 10.7
Nitrate 15ppm
Nitrite 0ppm
Phos .25ppm
Calc 430
Magnesium (Don't have any way to test this one yet)
Iodine (Don't have any way to test this one yet)
Strontium (Don't have any way to test this one yet)
Salinity 38ppm

*Bonus*
I've heard from multiple people that you want to start with a soft coral and you'd probably want to get an anemone if you plan on having one first, because it can move around and sting/kill other corals that might be established already. Is this a good idea?

I think you’re on the right track here, but I would increase to temp to at least 77 degrees. 78 is ideal in most cases, but I wouldn’t worry if my tank hit 81-82 degrees in the summer. As for testing, if you’re planning on keeping mainly softies, focus on testing for nitrates and phosphate before anything else. You can test a newly made batch of saltwater for alk/cal/mg and as long as you do around a 10% weekly water change, those parameters should hover around those levels, which is perfect. It’s only when you start adding enough stony corals to noticeably consume alk/cal/mg that you’ll have to start testing those regularly and implementing a method to keep those values in line on a daily basis. As for a nem, you can add them whenever because nems do what nems do. Sometimes they just move for whatever reason. I have a very large swath of sand between my anemone and my stony corals. The anemone shifts around every few days, but always stays far enough away from my other corals to not be a concern.

 

[DAWREEFER]

Hi everyone,

I have a 20gal tank that I've modified to keep it an all-in-one tank. I started in late February of this year and it's going really well. Since started it's been cycled and I have added a Turbo snail/Emerald crab, then waited a few weeks before adding in two clownfish. Livestock is really good, but the turbo snail passed and I can't figure out why. I'm in the process of testing my parameters every few days to start getting ready to add my first coral. SUPER EXCITED. My question is do I have to keep track of any other parameters than the ones listed below? I also have put the averages since I've been testing.

I don't have a way to test some of the parameters listed, but is it really necessary, and what is the best way to get the result? Can you suggest a product if it's needed?

Temp 75.6
pH (Don't have any way to test this one yet)
Alk 10.7
Nitrate 15ppm
Nitrite 0ppm
Phos .25ppm
Calc 430
Magnesium (Don't have any way to test this one yet)
Iodine (Don't have any way to test this one yet)
Strontium (Don't have any way to test this one yet)
Salinity 38ppm

*Bonus*
I've heard from multiple people that you want to start with a soft coral and you'd probably want to get an anemone if you plan on having one first, because it can move around and sting/kill other corals that might be established already. Is this a good idea?

Ammonia 0.25 - I have not done a water change yet. When should I do one?

 

[DAWREEFER]

I think you’re on the right track here, but I would increase to temp to at least 77 degrees. 78 is ideal in most cases, but I wouldn’t worry if my tank hit 81-82 degrees in the summer. As for testing, if you’re planning on keeping mainly softies, focus on testing for nitrates and phosphate before anything else. You can test a newly made batch of saltwater for alk/cal/mg and as long as you do around a 10% weekly water change, those parameters should hover around those levels, which is perfect. It’s only when you start adding enough stony corals to noticeably consume alk/cal/mg that you’ll have to start testing those regularly and implementing a method to keep those values in line on a daily basis. As for a nem, you can add them whenever because nems do what nems do. Sometimes they just move for whatever reason. I have a very large swath of sand between my anemone and my stony corals. The anemone shifts around every few days, but always stays far enough away from my other corals to not be a concern.

I haven't done a water change yet, is it needed?

 

[jeffchapok]

My 2 cents worth...

Don't obsess over chasing the "right" numbers. Over the first year or so, your tank is going to be all over the place and you'll drive yourself crazy trying to constantly adjust them. I've seen many people do more harm than good by trying to chase numbers by using stuff like GFO reactors, rowaphos, etc.

Instead, focus on results. If your corals are happy and growing, don't worry about parameters. Within reason, corals will adapt within a wide range of water quality, and the thing they crave most is stability. Constantly changing things to achieve a certain value often only irritates them.

Be aware up front that your tank is going to go through various ugly stages before it settles in. Don't bother trying to prevent it. Just sit back and enjoy watching nature do its thing. Whenever possible, if you do need to make a change, I prefer a natural solution over adding chemicals, ie. snails and urchins to deal with algae, feed less and add a refugium to lower excess nutrients.

Only make small, incremental changes and give them time to work, never less than 2 weeks. Nothing good in this hobby happens quickly.

Also, don't expect all corals to do well right off the bat. Stick to easy softies like mushrooms, toadstools, leathers, GSP. I couldn't even keep zoas for the first time 9 months, so be patient. Maybe try a different frag from time to time and if it makes it, then maybe try a few more.

Best of luck! It's a fascinating hobby.

 

[DAWREEFER]

My 2 cents worth...

Don't obsess over chasing the "right" numbers. Over the first year or so, your tank is going to be all over the place and you'll drive yourself crazy trying to constantly adjust them. I've seen many people do more harm than good by trying to chase numbers by using stuff like GFO reactors, rowaphos, etc.

Instead, focus on results. If your corals are happy and growing, don't worry about parameters. Within reason, corals will adapt within a wide range of water quality, and the thing they crave most is stability. Constantly changing things to achieve a certain value often only irritates them.

Be aware up front that your tank is going to go through various ugly stages before it settles in. Don't bother trying to prevent it. Just sit back and enjoy watching nature do its thing. Whenever possible, if you do need to make a change, I prefer a natural solution over adding chemicals, ie. snails and urchins to deal with algae, feed less and add a refugium to lower excess nutrients.

Only make small, incremental changes and give them time to work, never less than 2 weeks. Nothing good in this hobby happens quickly.

Also, don't expect all corals to do well right off the bat. Stick to easy softies like mushrooms, toadstools, leathers, GSP. I couldn't even keep zoas for the first time 9 months, so be patient. Maybe try a different frag from time to time and if it makes it, then maybe try a few more.

Best of luck! It's a fascinating hobby.

I think I’m already getting g into that ugly stage. Diatoms are spreading on one side of my tank here are some pictures. I built the desk with this 20Gal in mind, I’m working on the lid for it. sorry about the red markup, sensitive info.

 

[Uncle99]

With a new system, temp salinity nitrate and phosphate is what I watch carefully in the first year.

I work towards equilibrium in the import of foods, the waste from fish versus what my filtration can export.

A stable nitrate and phosphate reading is a great indicator if we putting in to much, or, taking out to much.

A stable temp and salinity are also, real important.

Many phosphate test can’t read below .25ppm.
Only Hanna UL Phosphorous can read below this value consistently.

 

[Uncle99]

Duplicate

 

[jeffchapok]

I think I’m already getting g into that ugly stage. Diatoms are spreading on one side of my tank here are some pictures. I built the desk with this 20Gal in mind, I’m working on the lid for it. sorry about the red markup, sensitive info.

Yup, they'll go away in a month or two on their own. But forget all about keeping those pristine white rocks.

 

[mdb_talon]

I am going to be up all night wondering what the sensitive info was!

 

[Crustaceon]

I haven't done a water change yet, is it needed?

Some will say you only have to do them for nitrate and phosphate control but I’ve always found them to be useful in ensuring things that you typically don’t test for and can irritate corals are being kept to a minimum. Also, water changes will replenish trace elements which is helpful for pretty much any coral in your tank. I’d say start with a weekly 5% water change and monitor the tank’s condition over the following month. If start seeing green or purple dots on your rocks (coralline algae), you’re on the right path.

 

[Rmckoy]

Hi everyone,

I have a 20gal tank that I've modified to keep it an all-in-one tank. I started in late February of this year and it's going really well. Since started it's been cycled and I have added a Turbo snail/Emerald crab, then waited a few weeks before adding in two clownfish. Livestock is really good, but the turbo snail passed and I can't figure out why. I'm in the process of testing my parameters every few days to start getting ready to add my first coral. SUPER EXCITED. My question is do I have to keep track of any other parameters than the ones listed below? I also have put the averages since I've been testing.

I don't have a way to test some of the parameters listed, but is it really necessary, and what is the best way to get the result? Can you suggest a product if it's needed?

Temp 75.6
pH (Don't have any way to test this one yet)
Alk 10.7
Nitrate 15ppm
Nitrite 0ppm
Phos .25ppm
Calc 430
Magnesium (Don't have any way to test this one yet)
Iodine (Don't have any way to test this one yet)
Strontium (Don't have any way to test this one yet)
Salinity 38ppm

*Bonus*
I've heard from multiple people that you want to start with a soft coral and you'd probably want to get an anemone if you plan on having one first, because it can move around and sting/kill other corals that might be established already. Is this a good idea?

Salinity is a little on the higher side .
aim for 35ppt or 1.026 Sg

the turbo ... I would guess being a newer system there wasn’t enough food to sustain it .
or as mentioned , the crab killed it for food .
both suggest not enough food due to being a newer setup .

i wouldn’t worry too much about iodine ( iodide ) or strontium yet .

magnesium isn’t too big of a worry at this time either .
being newer , I doubt you will see alkalinity or calcium consumption yet . the salt mix and water changes will replenish everything
work on testing and maintaining regular water changes and stability will be achieved in time .