Pre-cycling(pre-curing) dry Rock method?

[mrpizzaface]

I have a tank that should be delivered by June 1. I currently posses many pounds of Marco Dry Rock . What can I do with the dry rock now (before June 1) to pre-cycle (pre-cure) it, before the new tank arrives. I would like to minimize the cycle time once the new tank arrives. I will outline my current thoughts below, with questions listed after each step. Any insight or alternative steps/planning thoughts are appreciated.

Here are my current thoughts.
1. One week soaked in bleach/water combination. (brute cans) (enough time?should I use acid?)
2. Rinse, with dechlorinated water. (brute cans) (length of time?)
3. One month soak in dark, heated, aerated Saltwater, hooked up to skimmer. (Brute Cans) (Do I need water changes, or feeding?)
4.Two month soak in lighted, heated, aerated saltwater, hooked up to skimmer, performing weekly water changes, and feeding. (should I seed with a piece of live rock? can this be done in a brute can would glass tanks be preferable, what should my feeding schedule look like? should I add pods? Should i add a minimal fish population)
5.Would I just be better off buying live rock to begin with?

 

[Brew12]

This is what I would do assuming the rock didn't come out of a previously running system.

2. Rinse, with dechlorinated water. (brute cans) (length of time?)

I would start with this step except I wouldn't bother with dechlorinating it. If it is really dirty, use a pressure washer.

3. One month soak in dark, heated, aerated Saltwater, hooked up to skimmer. (Brute Cans) (Do I need water changes, or feeding?)

The goal would be to get to this step as quickly as possible, with the skimmer not being required unless you are using it for aeration. Test it for phosphates weekly for a few weeks. Do a big water change if PO4 gets above 0.4ppm. If you don't see much in the way of phosphates after a few weeks then you can add an ammonia source (I prefer pure ammonia or ammonia chloride) and a bottle of nitrifying bacteria. Every few days dose the ammonia up to 2ppm .

I wouldn't bother with the lights, pods, or fish until you get the rock into the DT. Unless, of course, your goal is to try and get the rocks algae covered prior to adding.

 

[mrpizzaface]

@Brew12 thank you for your responses.
I guess my main goal, is to do as much as possible over the next 3-4 months, to minimize problems once I set up my display.

If setting up a temporary tank and cramming my rocks into it would be more effective than using a brute can, I would be open to that.
If setting up a refugium, adding chaeto, and pods would help I will do it.
I would be thrilled if I could get coralline algae started before I set up the display.

 

[mfinn]

With clean dry rock I would rinse it off a couple times. I might give it a soak in ro water for a week and test it for phosphates, if that's a concern.
But if you are concerned about phosphates in new rock, then maybe another dry rock source would be preferred.
Then add saltwater and a bacteria source and ammonia, ( I used Dr. Tims product last time ) in the brute containers with a powerhead and heater.

 

[mrpizzaface]

@mfinn Thanks for your response.
I purchased the dry rock in haste about a year ago. Needless to say I have yet to start a tank. I will be starting a display this summer.
Are you saying that marcos dry rock leaches more phosphate than others?
I am trying to determine if curing marco dry rock (seeing as how I have it) for several months is preferable to purchasing live rock from Tampa Bay Saltwater.

 

[mfinn]

@mfinn Thanks for your response.
I purchased the dry rock in haste about a year ago.
Are you saying that marcos dry rock leaches more phosphate than others?
.

No, not at all.
I missed the part about you having it all ready.
I was saying that maybe another source would be a better choice IF you suspect there will be a phosphate issue.

If the phosphate was just a surface issue, then a acid bath would take care of it. ( or at least help )
If it is through all the rock, then maybe routine doses with a product like Phosphate RX is in order, if changing out the rock is not possible.
I saw a Melve's Reef video that is interesting on the subject.

 

[Tobias9413]

Do remember though that once it’s populated with bacteria, the rock can’t stay out of water for long other wise all of this you did for pre cycling it will be for nothing. I’m doing something similar since I will be moving in 5 months. I already have my new tank so as soon as I get my rock I’m going to scape my tank first then once I like where it is in going to put the rock in brute trash cans with bleach first then sun dry. Then I’m going to add water with prime to get rid of bleach and start the cycle in the trash can. Because I’ll already have an idea of my scape Ill be able to keep the rocks out of water for less time

 

[Lukejstn]

I want to say this is a little over kill. I'm in the same position. I have a bunch of dry rock from a previous build that i never used. Its been sitting in my garage for 3 years. I'm almost done rinsing it in Ro water for a few days, and in the next day or 2 will be putting in my nano tank, and adding Dr. Tim's one and only. I don't plan on putting anything in there for a few weeks, just have to learn to be patient.

 

[mrpizzaface]

@mfinn Thanks again. I will look for that Melev video.

@Tobias9413 Appreciate your response. I plan on keeping the rock submerged, and adding it to the display (with water) when the time comes. I think I am gonna be stuck doing my aquascaping underwater.

@Lukejstn Thank you for your input. I agree it seems a bit overkill, just trying to maximize the time I have, balanced with the fact I already posses the Marco rock.

 

[HolisticBear]

For some dry rock, in particular pukani, the long prep you often read about to get rid of leaching phosphates rather than traditional nitrifying cycle.

The nitrifying cycle could be just a few weeks, but removing phosphates could take many months, worse-case closer to a year. There are many steps (bleach, LC, acid wash) that greatly speed up breaking down organics on pukani.

Since you didn't start with pukani, I think you saved yourself most of that work.

 

[mrpizzaface]

@HolisticBear Thanks for the info. I had heard pukani was pretty dirty (maybe I dodged a bullet). My main concern with using dry rock, stemmed from reading a couple stories about advanced reefers starting new tanks with dry rock only to shut them down later, to restart with live rock.

 

[Jesterrace]

@Brew12 thank you for your responses.
I guess my main goal, is to do as much as possible over the next 3-4 months, to minimize problems once I set up my display.

If setting up a temporary tank and cramming my rocks into it would be more effective than using a brute can, I would be open to that.
If setting up a refugium, adding chaeto, and pods would help I will do it.
I would be thrilled if I could get coralline algae started before I set up the display.

Mine was the Carribsea Life Rock, but all I did was put it in a garbage can on wheels, took the tank heater from my old 36 gallon tank, picked up one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/KEDSUM-Aquar...qid=1519854628&sr=8-1&keywords=Kedsum+1850gph

Added some RODI/Saltwater mix, and a source of ammonia. That powerhead listed above does have a cheap mount on it (ie takes several tries to get good suction and it has no magnetic back), but the powerhead itself was strong and worked well. It was definitely worth it for the application and the price and would have no issue putting one in a rock cycling tank or QT tank. Also apparently the company is relatively new and trying to build a name for itself. Since I complained about the mount in my review they contacted me and refunded me half of the purchase price. It's a nice little unit for $15 and an absolute steal at $7-$8.

 

[mrpizzaface]

@Jesterrace thanks for the heads up on the powerhead I will def check it out. $15 is pretty cheap for the price of admission. How did your cycle go in the garbage can? if you had to do it again would you change anything?

 

[mrpizzaface]

I appreciate everyone who responded. I have been watching the BRS ULM series, and think I will try cycling my rock in a similar manner. I won't have my tank for several months, so I think I will set up a 120 just to start cycling the rock and trying to see if I can get some coralline and bacteria to populate. I will start a new thread as I do this.

 

[Jesterrace]

@Jesterrace thanks for the heads up on the powerhead I will def check it out. $15 is pretty cheap for the price of admission. How did your cycle go in the garbage can? if you had to do it again would you change anything?

The cycle went fairly well (although keep in mind my life rock does have bacteria on it, whereas your dry rock does not). The only thing I would change is not wasting the money on stupid bottled bacteria. That stuff is worthless. I added a piece of established/cycled life rock from my old 36 gallon and then for a few days, I added a small chunk of frozen reef frenzy every other day. It took a while but the cycle definitely came and went. I added it to my display tank about a week and a half ago (added it to the already cycled stuff that has been in the tank since November) and it appears to be doing great. I figure with feeding the tank twice a day and having a couple of fish, shrimp and crabs that something bad would've happened by now if it was going to.

 

[Lionsreef]

I'm bringing back this older thread to get some more advice on cycling rock in a brute trash can. I too just bought 120 lbs of dry marco rock that I'd like to cycle and get seeded with coraline as soon as practical as I will be upgrading my tank in 4 or 5 months. I've purchased a bottle of Dr. Tims and some ammonia to get it going.

Assuming the rocks cycle and the ammonia goes back down after a week or so what next?
1. I plan on leaving the rocks in the brute trash cans for several months with a power head before I purchase all the equipment and set up the new tank. Do I need to feed the rocks periodically with anything to keep the bacteria going? I've read about ghost feeding but don't know what that is.
2. How much live rock or scraped coraline from my other tank do I need to add to get coraline started on the new rocks?
3. Should i leave the lid on or off? Do I need to add a light source to get the coraline to grow?
4. Do I need to do a water change periodically?
5? Should I add any CUC once safe to do so?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

 

[Lionsreef]

One other question to add. Are all Brute trash cans safe for storing SW and rocks for several months? I went to purchase a 55 gal grey Brute can from Home Depot and see there are 2 different versions. The one that is labeled food safe is 2x the cost of the other can. Also, the more expensive can is not stocked at my local HD and would need to be ordered online and shipped.

 

[lakai]

Not sure but what I know is that it doesn't leech out unwanted stuff like the release mold agent. I believe that is considered foodsafe. It doesn't need to be sterile .

 

[NoobReeefer]

you will have to keep feeding the bacteria so id just add a couple drops of ammonia in there every other week or so...ghost feeding is just adding fish food to feed the bacteria. water changes aint really necessary if its new rock, its not going to leach out nutrients like previously used and then dried rock will. you will need a heater in there also. i wouldn't bother with a CUC and i can't answer the coraline questions.

 

[kkiel02]

Mine is cycling in a big brute trash can in my garage with an old power head and a heater. So by the time my tank is up and running it’ll be about the 4 month period similar to what BRS did in the 4 month cycle video.